I think I found out why this HHR SS was traded in, I think?
03-31-2015, 08:36 PM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-28-2008
Location: Oshawa
Posts: 1,115
Wheatgerm , as Tara said, check the sensor on the front drivers' side engine. Is the sensor blue or black. If blue, it has the GMTU installed. The GMTU also had a problem when doing heavy footed acceleration. The sensor in the downpipe (that sensor is hard to see) would make contact with the AC piping and set codes. There was not alot of room for that sensor on the install of the GMTU. Installers would normally take that pipe off for the install of that sensor. Giving it a check would not hurt. If there is a GMTU installed.
04-12-2015, 12:40 AM
#33
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 11-23-2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 87
Sorry for the delayed reply back Black Tara. It may have that upgrade unless all of them have that ''High Test'' fuel sticker in the gas filler door?
The Map Sensor is a 12592016 on the top and below is a 12592017 Map T. Running it hard the H.P. Dial shows over 300 HP and settles to about 290-300 HP.. Though not all the time, it hasn't happened in weeks now, it will only give trouble in Flat Out Accelleration and usually from a lower speed. Checked for hoses and contact of a bolt shank with one of the plastic intercooler tubes as was mentioned in a Cobalt SS forum, I'm ok there and no contact between the A/C compressor and harness or anything connected to the Turbo system. The boost numbers when this takes place are over 20, usually around 24 or 25.. I even allowed a dealer mechanic to take a shot at finding something and all I got back was another ''Cannot Duplicate Problem'' answer but that is the actual way things are, very intermittent..
It is very spunky from all speeds if it is not floored and less turbo boost is applies, that much I have learned so far.
I appreciate everyone's input and help with this and plan on changing the Map and Map T sensors as a throwing parts at it type repair, have one here, the other will be ordered very soon. This is an automatic so if the factory keeps the HP low on it for that reason I don't want to go too far if any beyond that figure but I am way over it.
When I was thinking of buying it they let me drive it and I took it home and checked out things figuring at worst a turbo, blown head gasket or cracked block given the symptoms I was able to find with the car, even though it was a damp rainy day it seemed to have an amount of steam out the back that caught my attention so I put it on my list of problems with the car in working on getting the price down from 14500.00.. I hoped if it did have a problem of coolant crossing over to the exhaust it was going to be via the turbo seals which would also boost the pressure in the system beyond whatever is programmed to be by the factory.. It has a 3.29 ration ring and pinion and climbs over a hundred like nothing when it is not attempted from a dead start and floored accelerator.
I now have the coolant set at a specific level so I can monitor coolant use if any, all hoses seem tight and not cracked nor soft where they might close from vacuum..
The short of it all is it can run like a raped ape sometimes and others just shut off the boost and downshift holding back.. that was the last complaint by the previous owner and no problem was found as stated on the last work order that I have copies of and it was enough to make him trade it in for something else..
This thing was garage kept, not even a door ding on it, interior clean as if new, new Michelin tires on all 4 paws and fanatical attention paid to oil changes, filters and transmission and cooling system flushes/changes..
Once I fix the problem it will be perfect.. If there was to be a shortcoming of the car it would be the front where all the sand and anything else hit at higher speed, this was a car he used to commute back and forth to work on the highway and back roads here in Texas which means anywhere from 55 to 75 or more MPH depending on where he was driving.
Thanks again for the reply, non related household plumbing problems have been a priority for a while, ''Clay Sewer Pipe'' and Tree Roots..
here is a link to a Red 2008 HHR SS still for sale, the only reason I didn't buy it was it was a stick and my wife doesn't drive them, just automatic. HHR Chevy for anyone in this area I think it is a great deal.
The Map Sensor is a 12592016 on the top and below is a 12592017 Map T. Running it hard the H.P. Dial shows over 300 HP and settles to about 290-300 HP.. Though not all the time, it hasn't happened in weeks now, it will only give trouble in Flat Out Accelleration and usually from a lower speed. Checked for hoses and contact of a bolt shank with one of the plastic intercooler tubes as was mentioned in a Cobalt SS forum, I'm ok there and no contact between the A/C compressor and harness or anything connected to the Turbo system. The boost numbers when this takes place are over 20, usually around 24 or 25.. I even allowed a dealer mechanic to take a shot at finding something and all I got back was another ''Cannot Duplicate Problem'' answer but that is the actual way things are, very intermittent..
It is very spunky from all speeds if it is not floored and less turbo boost is applies, that much I have learned so far.
I appreciate everyone's input and help with this and plan on changing the Map and Map T sensors as a throwing parts at it type repair, have one here, the other will be ordered very soon. This is an automatic so if the factory keeps the HP low on it for that reason I don't want to go too far if any beyond that figure but I am way over it.
When I was thinking of buying it they let me drive it and I took it home and checked out things figuring at worst a turbo, blown head gasket or cracked block given the symptoms I was able to find with the car, even though it was a damp rainy day it seemed to have an amount of steam out the back that caught my attention so I put it on my list of problems with the car in working on getting the price down from 14500.00.. I hoped if it did have a problem of coolant crossing over to the exhaust it was going to be via the turbo seals which would also boost the pressure in the system beyond whatever is programmed to be by the factory.. It has a 3.29 ration ring and pinion and climbs over a hundred like nothing when it is not attempted from a dead start and floored accelerator.
I now have the coolant set at a specific level so I can monitor coolant use if any, all hoses seem tight and not cracked nor soft where they might close from vacuum..
The short of it all is it can run like a raped ape sometimes and others just shut off the boost and downshift holding back.. that was the last complaint by the previous owner and no problem was found as stated on the last work order that I have copies of and it was enough to make him trade it in for something else..
This thing was garage kept, not even a door ding on it, interior clean as if new, new Michelin tires on all 4 paws and fanatical attention paid to oil changes, filters and transmission and cooling system flushes/changes..
Once I fix the problem it will be perfect.. If there was to be a shortcoming of the car it would be the front where all the sand and anything else hit at higher speed, this was a car he used to commute back and forth to work on the highway and back roads here in Texas which means anywhere from 55 to 75 or more MPH depending on where he was driving.
Thanks again for the reply, non related household plumbing problems have been a priority for a while, ''Clay Sewer Pipe'' and Tree Roots..
here is a link to a Red 2008 HHR SS still for sale, the only reason I didn't buy it was it was a stick and my wife doesn't drive them, just automatic. HHR Chevy for anyone in this area I think it is a great deal.
Last edited by Wheatgerm; 04-12-2015 at 12:42 AM. Reason: added 2008 and corrected are to area.
04-12-2015, 12:45 AM
#34
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 11-23-2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 87
Thanks ''CokeyBill''.. I'll take a look in that area of things and see what I have, there were no records in the maintenance at the dealer showing an upgrade but that doesn't mean it couldn't have been done elsewhere or by another shop etc..
04-12-2015, 05:07 AM
#35
Member
Join Date: 06-17-2013
Location: MD
Posts: 80
does this car have the stage 1 GMPP upgrade?
If it does, the MAP sensor will have a blue sticker and be connected with only 1 screw. I can take pictures of mine if you need to compare. You might have the same issue I had when I bought mine. Would drive like an animal and boost to 20lbs+ but would randomly go into limp mode and could only boost to 5psi, or wastegate pressure.
The fix is to remove the butt splice connectors on both MAP sensors and solder them directly. I havent been in limp mode since. Several people have posted pictures on this fix.
the top MAP connector is easy to solder, the lower MAP is a pain to solder. The wires on the lower MAP bang into the AC compressor and short out. So you will want to flip wire routing to point toward the radiator.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/ss-s...ldering-47349/
If it does, the MAP sensor will have a blue sticker and be connected with only 1 screw. I can take pictures of mine if you need to compare. You might have the same issue I had when I bought mine. Would drive like an animal and boost to 20lbs+ but would randomly go into limp mode and could only boost to 5psi, or wastegate pressure.
The fix is to remove the butt splice connectors on both MAP sensors and solder them directly. I havent been in limp mode since. Several people have posted pictures on this fix.
the top MAP connector is easy to solder, the lower MAP is a pain to solder. The wires on the lower MAP bang into the AC compressor and short out. So you will want to flip wire routing to point toward the radiator.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/ss-s...ldering-47349/
04-14-2015, 12:47 AM
#38
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 11-23-2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 87
Fongue and Fireman George, Cokey Bill and Black Tara, thank you for the information offered, photo too.. Now established it is not upgraded at least so that is out of contention as a problem. My next time working on it will check that lower T Map/Compressor clearance again and while at it it does have 2 screws holding it in with the wiring harness facing the compressor, seemed like it had plenty of room though when I took down all the plastic under it to look it over.
I had to get into traffic in a hurry today and it lit up the tires on less than full throttle, boost at that time was about 15-20 and I was in first gear. I decided to try to duplicate the problem after that in a safer area traffic wise and it ran like it should with the boost not over 20 again, possible something sticking along the lines of a waste gate on and off?
The last Turbo I owned was a early 80's 2.2 Dodge [Can I say that here?] and far less complex, worked every time so I have zero experience in troubleshooting turbos let alone late 2000nd's technology turbos and really do appreciate the input from everyone.
I intend to check the connectors to assure they are original and have never been crimped on for any reason Turbo Upgrade or not. I also intend to remove that bypass device and check it for sticking and or perforated diaphragm too.. I've been under this thing looking and checking, anyone have a good reference on drive up ramps for low front ends? I've been jacking up the cars and placing my old steel ramps under the wheels to this point.. One more thing to add, the last GM Tech worked every switch with his scanner individually in the system and all were functioning but that was then and the problem is intermittent so we all know how that goes..
House plumbing under control, more time for the car this week and I'll keep things posted as I may find them. Still learning the HHR.NET in and outs finding posts, threads etc..
Thanks Again Everybody!!!
I had to get into traffic in a hurry today and it lit up the tires on less than full throttle, boost at that time was about 15-20 and I was in first gear. I decided to try to duplicate the problem after that in a safer area traffic wise and it ran like it should with the boost not over 20 again, possible something sticking along the lines of a waste gate on and off?
The last Turbo I owned was a early 80's 2.2 Dodge [Can I say that here?] and far less complex, worked every time so I have zero experience in troubleshooting turbos let alone late 2000nd's technology turbos and really do appreciate the input from everyone.
I intend to check the connectors to assure they are original and have never been crimped on for any reason Turbo Upgrade or not. I also intend to remove that bypass device and check it for sticking and or perforated diaphragm too.. I've been under this thing looking and checking, anyone have a good reference on drive up ramps for low front ends? I've been jacking up the cars and placing my old steel ramps under the wheels to this point.. One more thing to add, the last GM Tech worked every switch with his scanner individually in the system and all were functioning but that was then and the problem is intermittent so we all know how that goes..
House plumbing under control, more time for the car this week and I'll keep things posted as I may find them. Still learning the HHR.NET in and outs finding posts, threads etc..
Thanks Again Everybody!!!
04-19-2015, 02:17 AM
#40
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 11-23-2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 87
donbrew, it only will set the CEL when it goes into limp mode, if it overboosts but not too much over whatever the parameter set by G.M. is it must have a small area of ''Forgiveness'' where it is just stored as an event but does not turn on the CEL.
The last time the light set and I scanned it and 3 times were recorded from the last time the system was cleared even though only 1 instance forced the car into limp mode and shut the turbo off to zero boost and set the CEL at the 3rd occurrence. It hasn't set since.
I'd like to learn more about this car as it relates to the standard set by G.M. where a boost problem will set and not illuminate the CEL as well as when it will go into limp mode and more or less shut the power of the turbo off to zero boost and downshift into a lower gear at the same time.
I do not have the Turbo Upgrade, that has been established with the help of other forum members, just the problems of having that upgrade it seems and not all the time.
I'm really thinking something is sticking in or on the turbo itself after viewing some videos on vehicles with similar or same problem..
As far as a tune or tune up, I can't say for sure what has or has not been done in that area, no records of a tune up exist so I'll take it that one has never been done.
Thanks for your input..
The last time the light set and I scanned it and 3 times were recorded from the last time the system was cleared even though only 1 instance forced the car into limp mode and shut the turbo off to zero boost and set the CEL at the 3rd occurrence. It hasn't set since.
I'd like to learn more about this car as it relates to the standard set by G.M. where a boost problem will set and not illuminate the CEL as well as when it will go into limp mode and more or less shut the power of the turbo off to zero boost and downshift into a lower gear at the same time.
I do not have the Turbo Upgrade, that has been established with the help of other forum members, just the problems of having that upgrade it seems and not all the time.
I'm really thinking something is sticking in or on the turbo itself after viewing some videos on vehicles with similar or same problem..
As far as a tune or tune up, I can't say for sure what has or has not been done in that area, no records of a tune up exist so I'll take it that one has never been done.
Thanks for your input..