2.0L Performance Tech 260hp (235hp auto) Turbocharged SS tuner version. 260 lb-ft of torque

Installing an Oil Catch Can

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Old 02-11-2016, 06:53 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by RJ_RS_SS_350
A few minor reasons. Where the air enters the PCV valve, that side of the valve requires 1/2" hose. Where the air leaves the valve is 5/16
The outer shell means nothing. Is the inlet hole ID the same as the outlet ID?
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Old 02-11-2016, 08:18 PM
  #122  
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Dan has a pic of the PCV in post #31. I ground off the lip where the O-ring is, and clamped the 1/2" ID hose directly to the outer shell. Seemed like the easiest way to incorporate the original PCV without building a housing for it. Then I clamped 5/16" ID hose to the outlet of the PCV. The outlet end is smaller than the inlet end.
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Old 02-12-2016, 07:48 PM
  #123  
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A word of caution to anyone about to tap their intake manifold. I advise that you tap a little and test your fitting into it, especially if you are putting a plug in for later use. I ran my tap in as far as it would go, just until it touched the bottom of the runner.

The fitting I got, I don't know if it isn't tapered or what, but it did not tighten satisfactorily. I ended up putting pipe dope and a bunch of pipe tape, and it still ran all the way down til it hit the shoulder of the fitting.

As I mentioned before, the aluminum is kinda thin here. The aluminum set screws I got are only about 1/4" deep, and probably would have been very difficult to seal.

I flooded the manifold valley with water from a turkey baster, it doesn't seem to be sucking any water in at idle, so that's good.

And for those about to rock... We salute you!!
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Old 02-13-2016, 01:40 PM
  #124  
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Aluminum set screws would be straight threaded a pipe plug would have a NPT tapered thread to seal the threads into the female fitting
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Old 02-13-2016, 02:01 PM
  #125  
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Here's a link to another great company making catch-cans for 'boosted' DI engines...
15 Mustang 2.3 Ecoboost Dual Valve Oil Catch Can Separator

I saw their test-car, a 2.3 DI turbo Mustang go down the track Wednesday night at Orlando Speed World dragstrip.
It went 11.29@120 MPH on a 35 shot of NOS...
It lifted the front a few inches at launch...
Aiming for the sky! - 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, GT350, GT500, Ecoboost, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

This was the 1st time that NOS has been used on a turbo DI 4 cylinder engine...
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Old 02-13-2016, 02:55 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
Aluminum set screws would be straight threaded a pipe plug would have a NPT tapered thread to seal the threads into the female fitting
Even if the set screw were NPT? Either way, had I not run the tap quite so far in, it would have been a better fit, because the tap is also tapered. I suspect this aluminum 1/8" MPT x 5/16" hose fitting is not tapered.



On another note, these are the catch cans that I got at Home Depot.


The first one I got, the drain valve would not seal. I returned it, and that one sealed. Now that it's installed it no longer seals.
Rather than pull it out, replace it, and keep cycling through these cheap things, I found these at Autozone, nice tight fit on the nipple.
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Old 02-13-2016, 03:07 PM
  #127  
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If you'd like to fix the threads in your intake RJ, you can do what I had to. The proper tool for this shallow location would be a 1/8"NPT bottoming tap. Since I don't have much use for one and they are rather expensive, I made my own. I just cut the 1/8"NPT tap in half so that I could use the larger taper at the end. Since you don't want to damage the intake with the new cut off threads. Pick up a female 1/8" fitting that you can run the tap through a few times to clean the threads.
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Old 02-13-2016, 03:22 PM
  #128  
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I think that would make it worse. Removing more material from the manifold hole would make the fitting an even looser fit. It seems to not be leaking, but I was concerned. I just wanted to warn others not to just run the tap in so far; tap a little, check the fit. It seems different fittings are, well, different.
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Old 02-13-2016, 03:31 PM
  #129  
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RJ, some of the air filters on the market have what are called automatic drains, they are spring loaded to open at a low pressure to blow the water out. The ones from Harbor freight are like that, The Northern tool filters have a fitting/drain that you have to screw CCW to open and drain.

I am in the process of making a test can, I'm waiting for all the stuff to come in. I should be (hopefully) done with it next week some time.
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Old 02-13-2016, 03:51 PM
  #130  
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Yeah, I remember you mentioned the automatic ones before, you said that was not desirable for this application. These have a little handle that will turn around forever, vertical is open, horizontal is closed. Packaging says manual drain, I find nothing in the paperwork to indicate otherwise.

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