Dbeluscak

Thanks for this! It seems I'm a little late to the lnf scene as most threads are no longer active. After reading through the entire thread I know my setup is incorrect and not going to work! I'm in contact with John Powell, he is definitely the expert on the situation. And I highly recommend their catch can. It's extensively been tested and researched. Built for the LNF engine.

At 400+ dollars it is expensive. But it's no fun cleaning intake valve deposits. Removing any traces of oil from the air supply will definitely help. For the stock turbo, this is an easy procedure. We're just adding in between the dirty side of the pcv system (Port 2). For upgraded, larger turbos. We'll need to drill and tap the compressor housing in order to feed clean air to Port 1.

I'll keep updated with my progress. I've only had 1 interaction with Mr. Powell, but he is a class act! Sent me info the next day.

I'm going to ask ZZP how well thier setup works. The LNF engine is already known for coking problems. Why would you mess with the PVC system?! I'm really glad that I've got this forum, it's been a wealth of information. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all their help.

DrLoch

Did you do your catch/s can yet?

I just scored a complete no mileage LNF take out with everything on it so I'm gonna use it for reference to make a oil air separator/catch can.

Interesting enough I just read an article about the 2016 Camaro and one of the lead engineers made a comment about one of the new unsung hero's on the car, A legit air/oil separator for the LT1 the article went on to say that it's function is to keep oil out of the airbox and throttle-body and therefore combustion chamber -avoiding per-ignition.

They obviously know that that is an issue and that developing a separator was on top of there list to make sure the LT1 GDI owners aren't pissed off. Since they are putting a 2.0 turbo in that car I wonder if the same separator is intended to with it as well...

Need a GM engineer to find some information.

Waynejwj

I would like to install a oil catch can but the whole subject seems a bit confusing. From what I can gather on the subject for our engines the most effective installation is to install the can between the turbo and the engine. The hose running from the turbo to the engine seems to be somewhat difficult to remove. My question is why can you not just cut the hose comming from the turbo in the middle and just plumb the catch can in.

Dbeluscak

I wouldn't just cut and add anywhere.. the GM engineers do have some idea of how this system works. Besides, the line from the turbo compressor housing to the center of the valve cover is fresh air in. This is line is to keep a constant fresh air IN.

Here's where I'm at. Make sure you read the LNF catch can thread over on the CSS site. If you try and read through all the yakking there's some good info and pics there.

I had the Mishimoto can installed but I wasn't collecting much. Turns out I need to revamp my PCV system because of the turbo upgrages. I was in contact with John Powell to try and get one of his systems. I thought I'd just order it and call it a day. Returned the Mishimoto can and waited and waited. It seems like Mr. Powell is always busy. Its been about 4000 miles running with nothing but the SS is now safe and sound, hibernating for the winter.

I'll be updating the Project Overboard thread shortly as we just tore it down and sent the downpipe back to ZZP for fab(https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/hhr-ss-45/08-hhr-ss-project-overboard-54048/ ). My plan is to take off the valve cover and intake and see what 4000 miles looks like. The 256ET doesn't have a fitting on the compressor housing and the tube was plugged off for wastegate clearance. So I'll be drilling and tapping the turbo and valve cover with AN fittings.

I'll try and keep updated with pics and info as I find it.

Waynejwj

I think that is my problem. I have been on the Cobalt SS site and several other sites and read multiple articles and there seems to be no one accepted correct way to install a oil catch can. Below is the opinion of one of the members from the Cobalt ss site. He is replying to a member asking if the proper way was to install the catch can from the air intake to the pcv valve inlet.

"If you install it that way it will be pointless, we have a wired PVC set up. The line coming from the intake to the valve cover is a intake line that provides fresh air to the engine, their is another line that comes from the valve cover to the compressor housing of the turbo, this is where you want to install the catch can. The pcv system uses the suction of the turbo to flow the air out and the speed of the intake air to force it in to the system. This is why when you install an aem intake in the directions it tells you to have the open part of the metal adapter facing the filter and not the turbo. Ps the line is a pain to get off, when I did mine I ended up using a pry bar and the fitting came out of the valve cover so I had to use a large pair of pliers to force it back in, and the turbo side is easy, to take it out is just a 10 mil bolt, at which point you can use the proper tool". Very confusing!!

DrLoch

That is correct. The line running from the air inlet pipe after the air filter box to the valve cover provides the "metered" air for both systems. So you would need a catch can for both, the line running from the valve cover to the inlet of the Turbo, you will also need to interrupt the intake PCV valve air flow going into the intake manifold and run it external to a catch can and then back to the intake manifold. Before anyone jumps on and says that Powell already has it all figured out.... that's fine. To quote something from above... "It seems like Mr. Powell is always busy."

I'll use my new build engine to make the modifications needed to the intake manifold, going to add a fifth injector anyways what's one more port.. Have a CNC machine shop right here in our building. Just need to make a part that will hold the existing factory PCV valve that will be plumbed inline with the line running from the catch can to the intake manifold.

Dbeluscak

That's where I'm at Doc, couldn't agree more. Things obviously didn't work out there. I'm getting the intake and valve cover off this weekend. I also intend making the pcv accessible from the intake. Keep us posted, I'll do the same.

DrLoch

The biggest problem I see is where to put the 2 tanks. Space is at a premium under the hood.

BTW I thought I had read that you were adding another O2 bung in your down pipe for a tuning WB. You do realize that we already have a WB, correct? Everyone tuning a LNF uses the factory WB for fueling. I wouldn't recommend you use the added WB for you tuning since all the your trims, PE etc are going to be based on the factory WB, could get real dicey and may not give you the the results you want. Did you change the factory WB when you did the motor change?

Dbeluscak

There's actually quite a bit of open space behind the firewall ...sneaky too. It'd get a lot of ?'s at the car shows why you've got AN lines running through your firewall! I've ditched trying to get anything from Mr. Powell. The more I read/understand the system, unless you dig out the PCV from the intake you're really not keeping oil from the valves or air supply. Seems like he was selling a $450 dollar pipe dream...which is why when I have questions I get no response.

I intend on recreating the stock setup with my new turbo using AN fittings. And then making the intake manifold PCV external. I'm also going to build catch cans instead of buying them. Things tend to work out better for me that way.

Another thing I'm trying to add to my list. I'd like to add in an electric oil pump. For pre and post engine cycles. They make a kit to do this, but it's very expensive and it's not a pump. Its a couple of solenoids and a controller with an aluminum tank that closes at max oil pressure and then dumps before startup.. Doesn't seem as effective and it's costly. We'lll see, right now I'm guessing I'd have to tap fittings into the oil pan and have the pump lower so it's gravity fed.

Taking off the passenger fender tonight. Last night I started mocking up my cold air box out of cardboard. I'd like to make it eventually out of aluminum but for now it'll be made of heavy gauge fiberglass. Its pretty much going to fill the cavity in front of the washer reservoir. Cutting larger openings from the side and making a scoop to fill the space between the radiator and air box. Having a larger intercooler is not an excuse to use HOT air in, I mean the filter is sitting on the valve cover for darn sakes!

DrLoch

I also thought about the area behind the firewall. That would certainly get it out of the way. You are correct about the PCV in the intake. As I see it unless the valve is moved all the other changes are for not.