Look what jumped in my truck and followed me home
#1
Look what jumped in my truck and followed me home
I wasn't looking for another project but I couldn't pass this up. I'm gonna have to drop my motor and trans to replace the clutch, half shafts, add the 5th injector, develop a good LNF oil separator....
I was told that this engine had not seen any road miles, by looking at the clutch and flywheel and a number of other items TI tend to agree with it. Heck the factory marking paint marks aren't even burned off yet.
#4
Sunday was spent getting the motor up on the engine stand and removing everything. Essentially I have an LNF long block on the stand now. This motor had no real run time on it. Intake ports have no oil and/or coking heck the oil I drained out was the factory fill. The inlet on the turbo did have oil misting in it that was easily wiped off. After removing the valve cover I have figured out how to make an oil separator/s for our combination. I'll pass that on after I design and built one. I'm going to go a different route from what others have developed, mine will require removing the intake to plug a hole so the factory PCV can be moved to a new location. As they say, film at 11.
Only thing I had issues with was those SS lines running from the valve cover to the inlet pipe ahead of the turbo and the line that runs from the valve cover to the inlet of the turbo...... can't get the tool in that releases those clips.... what were they (GM) thinking....... I destroyed the one line trying to get it off.... price of progress I suppose. I'm going to remove those fittings from the valve cover and machine JIC/SAE/AN fitting that will press into the valve cover. The factory fitting are pressed/interference type fitting, I will make fitting that will replace them.
I may start a thread detailing what I intend to do and my progress and pitfalls along the way.
#5
Sounds like progress doc, I did mean trunk because I misread your post. I'm convinced GM has a special tool for getting that line off. I bet we broke the same one! After I did I learned a neat trick (after of course), take a tiny zip tie tight around the line and shove it in there with some terminal screwdrivers. Haven't got to try it yet but it makes sense to me. Definitely keep us up to date, I'm curious to see your pcv setup. I'm running around building up all kinds of debris and we're only @ 2500 miles. I was curious so I scoped it.
Cylinder 1 I couldn't reach, 2 was fairly clean. 3&4 are a joke! Buildup already around the stems! I'll try and get the pics uploaded. It's no bueno.
Cylinder 1 I couldn't reach, 2 was fairly clean. 3&4 are a joke! Buildup already around the stems! I'll try and get the pics uploaded. It's no bueno.
#6
Well I've disassembled down to block and removed one piston. Along with having the factory fill of oil still in it the rings still had the paint marking on there face, red and yellow, so the rings hadn't even seated yet.
I cleaned off the top of the piston I removed with acetone and I could see the ink arrow on it still.
Intention is to change the rods and pistons to forged, studs for the heads and mains, replace the valve springs.... considering removing the balance shafts as well, don't know about that one yet still have to ponder the ramifications. Don't want a paint shaker.
I cleaned off the top of the piston I removed with acetone and I could see the ink arrow on it still.
Intention is to change the rods and pistons to forged, studs for the heads and mains, replace the valve springs.... considering removing the balance shafts as well, don't know about that one yet still have to ponder the ramifications. Don't want a paint shaker.
#8
In the long run, I can't imagine the horsepower gain (8-10 hp ish) of removing balance shafts is worth the other issues their removal would cause.
I suppose if you're going for every possible ounce of power...
I know at one time, there were neutral shafts available, but don't know if they still are. I would have to imagine that the neutral shafts still take some power to turn as they still have a mass to them, just not countering an imbalance.
I suppose if you're going for every possible ounce of power...
I know at one time, there were neutral shafts available, but don't know if they still are. I would have to imagine that the neutral shafts still take some power to turn as they still have a mass to them, just not countering an imbalance.
#9
#10
As far as the oil separator, one has already been developed for our application. Powell race shop designed and perfected it. Although it is pricey there is no need to reinvent the wheel on this one. Also the rods are already forged but are only good for 400-450whp. What transmission you gonna strap to this thing?