donbrew

Clip the test light to GROUND. Probe each tiny hole on the fuse. If it lights up on only 1 side it's blown. If it doesn't light on either side it might be a bad circuit, further testing indicated.

firemangeorge

So hhrrat. No comment about my statement that 12.20 volts is NOT a full charge ?
I guess all that I said in my last post was just a waste of my time for typing it up.

Hope you get your "fried" wiring problem fixed. Good Luck.

donbrew

If you don't understand basic DC electrical theory, you should either learn about it or pay someone. I don't even mean Ohm's law, just what a fuse does.

Google is great!

Oldblue

So have you had time to confirm continuity of that red wire on the starter solenoid?

Grizzly old man

HHRRAT,

Christmas is coming maybe a nice cheap analog Volt Ohm Meter should be on your list.

hhrrat

I googled how to check with a test light. I tried that, first by connecting it the radiator bar and touching the fuse box positive terminal and the bulb did not light. Tried touching the tiny holes and still the bulb light did not light up. However, when checking ground, by connecting it to the positive terminal of fuse box and touching the grounds its lighting up. If I am doing it wrong let me know. In the morning I will try again by ground it and touching the little holes of the fuses.

Just trying to learn. What do you think could be the reason why when I attach to a ground and touch the fuse box +terminal it does not light, but when I attach it to the +terminal and touch that same ground it works. Sorry if these questions sound amateur. I am gonna read about continuity if I can see use my DMM and try that in the morning since Google said a DMM and a Volt Ohm Meter are just the same thing



Its not a waste of your time, hence why I took the battery back to autozone to get recharged since when I bought it at 74% charge. That was at 12.74 volts. It was enought to start my Cobra but I followed you advice to get a full charge.

Will do.

I have a DMM.

Just trying to learn how to work on these cars. If I am doing something wrong, if its not a big hassle please explain to me what it is that I am doing wrong so that I can learn from or point me in the right direction.

Thanks

hhrrat

Sorry guys if some of my questions sound amateur. I just started taking Electrical Eng. classes this fall and I think this would be a good opportunity for me to learn whether its through google or you guys or at school, but every bit of information helps. I bought this car from an old lady who did not want to spend the money to fix for a good price. Its not my DD for now, but more of a project car.

hhrrat

I will be doing this today. I dont understand how to do it as far as the starter is concerned, but I will google it and learn how to do it.
Thank you for your response.

07azhhr

The test light can not complete a path to ground unless it is attached to and touching bare metal at each end. One side needs to be a positive voltage source and the other needs to be bare metal. If it lights up then there is a complete circuit formed.

The radiator bar you tried, did it have paint on it? Even if it did not have paint on it, it may not be providing a ground path to the rest of the car.

The ground that you touched and had the test light work with would be a good place to connect to. Typically the strut tower bolts will also work as a ground. Basically do what you did of clamping on to the positive terminal then find a good ground location. Then move the clamp from the power post over to the ground location you just found. Now you should be able to start testing the fuse block and fuses.

hhrrat

Thank you.

I tried that once, hence how I found the ground to be working by connecting to the positive terminal first and touching the stud on the radiator bar and did light up. But I will trying it again, it doesnt hurt to try it again.

I will look again for a good ground by connecting the test light to the +terminal on the positive and touch which ever ground that I would like to use. If it checks out good, I will use that ground. I will connect the test light to that ground and touch the little holes on the fuses.

I will search and see if there is a way of checking for proper ground can using my DMM.

Quick question, to test the under hood fuses, does the car need to ON? because I read on GOOGLE about turning the car on, but dont clearly remember if it was for the inside cabin fuse box or under hood.
I will use both my DMM and test light to check the fuses in the morning which wouldn't hurt what I am trying to accomplish.


Also, let me ask you. Is there a reason as why some fuses were lighting up and others not lighting up when I connected the test light to the +terminal of the fuse box and touching the little holes on the fuses?
NB:There is a yellow 20A fuse that was clearly burnt I dont remember exactly which one but I will check in the morning to see what it controls

Excuse the question if it sounds stupid, I clearly dont know how the circuit (mapped out) under the fuses.

Again thank you for posting in this thread this early in the morning.