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squeaks and rattles behind radio trim

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Old 09-13-2015, 11:32 AM
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squeaks and rattles behind radio trim

I need to remove the trim around the radio- hvac controls and I have no idea how to accomplish this. I know the squeak is there because if I push my knee against it, it stops making noise. it's the basic plastic type squeak and probably needs a little cleaning and some silicon adhesive here and there. AM/FM CD player.
2011 HHR Heritage High Roof
thanks
One other question, where is a good place to use a hide a key. The only place I can think of is near the radiator (magnet style) and have to get on my back ( snow, mud??) to reach it.
I know we dont need to give away our secret hiding places so PM with some suggestions or is there some other idea that works good.
I keep a spare key w/ remote hidden inside the HHR, so I have to gain access to it with a hidden door key. Our whole family drives this car so I really need to hide the key and let them all know where it is. thanks again
Is there a way to open the hood from the exterior? I'd have plenty of places to hide a key then. thanks again-
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Old 09-13-2015, 12:04 PM
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The radio surround or waterfall is held it at the top with spring clips you will need to pop out the change tray at the bottom first then pull from the top.
I place my thumb in one air vent then my index finger in the other and gently pull
There are several 7 mm screws that can be tightened slightly to stop the squeak
As for the hide a key , I don't, back in 1976 my 1973 MGB was stolen, it was located dipped in the Welland Canal after the theft had gone for a joyride, BRG paint was seen along the railing at a dock in Dain City.
After the car was recovered the police noticed the ignition key was still in the ignition.
The insurance adjuster said to bad so sad , you must have given them the key!
I protested and showed the officers the spot under the hood where the British Leyland Co. Has secured a spare key and that spot was empty the key missing, it turned out to be the key used to steal the car.
It took two years in court to get the payout for that claim, and now I won't put a spare key on my cars , I do have a spare key I carry with me, though.
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Old 09-13-2015, 12:16 PM
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3 thoughts,

1. Push/locate exactly where it stops the squeaking.
See if you can spray a quality brand silicone with a small tube sprayer into the crack in the trim in that area. Then push in several times to see if that helps.
I also use Tri Flow w/Teflon as a Squeak stopper. It lasts longer then Silicone and is Far Superior to WD40. I buy it at Walmart in the small can.

2. Remove the storage compartment on the top of the dash to gain access to the back side of that area. A simple removal.
Then see if you can find a way to get to the squeak from behind.

3. Sometimes you can just use a small shim to apply pressure between two touching spots for a more permanent solution.

Good Luck,

Silverfox
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Old 09-13-2015, 12:19 PM
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You can get a thin plastic key made. They fit in your wallet like a credit card.
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Old 09-13-2015, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by donbrew
You can get a thin plastic key made. They fit in your wallet like a credit card.
A great alternative. Did not know about it.
Thanks for the tip.

Been hiding my key for the last 50 years w/o any problems but Blue gave a good example of how you could end up with a problem.
I also disguised the key holder so it was not as easy to find.

SF
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Old 09-13-2015, 08:59 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions for the radio trim.
The key was not supposed to work for the ignition after the new switch was installed (recall) just in the door, but the old keys work on the door and the ignition. That's why I hid a key inside. My thoughts were to hide just a door key and then access the real keys inside. The dealer told me that the old keys would only work in the door, not to start it but they were way wrong, the old key still starts the car and opens the door.
The plastic key thing is a good option.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocket Dawg
Thanks for the suggestions for the radio trim.
The key was not supposed to work for the ignition after the new switch was installed (recall) just in the door, but the old keys work on the door and the ignition. That's why I hid a key inside. My thoughts were to hide just a door key and then access the real keys inside. The dealer told me that the old keys would only work in the door, not to start it but they were way wrong, the old key still starts the car and opens the door.
The plastic key thing is a good option.
That dealer told you wrong. The new recall keys are "keyed" the same as your old ones via your VIN. The new keys just have the smaller hole where you insert a keyring.
AND, the dealership was supposed to keep your old keys. Not give them back to you. That's not very smart of your dealer because they could be liable if you use the old key and you have one of those ignition cut-off accidents.
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Old 09-14-2015, 11:17 AM
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yeah I got some bad info from them and my old keys back.
Will the plastic key work in the ignition as well? I thought keys had to be programmed to work. so I'm hoping they dont work in the ignition and I'll hide that key with a magnetic small key box somewhere, that would be alright by me.
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Old 09-14-2015, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocket Dawg
yeah I got some bad info from them and my old keys back.
Will the plastic key work in the ignition as well? I thought keys had to be programmed to work. so I'm hoping they dont work in the ignition and I'll hide that key with a magnetic small key box somewhere, that would be alright by me.
The point of the wallet key is to enter the vehicle. It does not have a PASSKEY chip. If it would start the car you could not drive for long before the antitheft kicked in.

If you need an Owner Manual type "online owners manual" into the search box. Or follow the link in many of my sigs.
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Old 09-14-2015, 07:36 PM
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Yup, I just need to enter the vehicle, I have an extra set well hidden inside with the remote. So a plastic door key is probably my best bet.
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