Well I broke down and replaced my 8" sub again. I pulled out the JL Audio 8W0 and put in an Kicker CVR8. I needed a speaker that could handle more power than the JL.
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/5/2/1/speakerbox.jpg
Here is the the box covered in Roadkill.
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/5/2/1/speaker.jpg
In order to get the CVR8 to seal right I installed a ring/spacer to ensure clearence.
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/5/2/1/kickerbadge.jpg
here is the speaker installed with the Kicker badge.
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/5/2/1/rear.jpg
Here is the rear befor the badge. I wired the CVR in parallel, it is a dual voice coil 4ohms each. Thuss making it a 2ohm load. Furter more the bridging module cuts the impedance in 1/2 making a total load of 1 omh. The Orion HCCA 225 I am using is stable down to a 1/2 ohm load. In that configuration I can get 400 watts easy.

We gotta meet up again. I wanna hear that baby.

All that ohm stuff confuses me.

All that ohm stuff confuses me.

Do you want an explanation of Ohm's law? :confused:

I thought you were asking me for a moment.

I thought you were asking me for a moment.

Nah, obviously you understand. :)

Go for it!

I am going to simplify things and not get into formulas or anything. Basically it is a measurement of electical resistance on the line. A more technical definition would be it is a law that definines the relationship between power, voltage, current, and resistance. Basically in a nut shell the less resistance between the amp and your speakers the more efficiently they will opperate.

I=v*r

*** Strange... I posted the formula before CH's reply, but it showed up 7 minutes after??? ***

Another note: Resistance in series adds up, while in parallel it divides. Example: Two 4 ohm speakers wired in series will present an 8 ohm load to the amp. Two 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel will present a 2 ohm load to the amp.

There is the formula. :)

so the lower the number the more efficient it is?

Yup.

Ok so I have heard 2ohm stable for an amp.What makes it 2ohm stable?

I like Navy's sub upgrade, also Captain's uprades as well! :bow:

My question being... any quality/sound diff between those two subs? (Kicker & Autobahn) and price difference? :confused:

It looks to me that you replaced just the speak, but the Amp is still the same? Is that correct?

No, - he said he has an Orion amp.

Let's see some pics of the amp install...where's it located? :cool:

Ok so I have heard 2ohm stable for an amp.What makes it 2ohm stable?

Most car audio is designed for 4 ohm speakers, so that is what most manfacturers design car audio components around. But higher end audio goes for the maximum effeciency to effectively double an amps output (50W@4ohm = 100W@2ohm - is that right, somebody in audio correct me if I'm wrong). Keep in mind that 0 ohms is a dead short. As you get close to 0 ohms your components have to have tight enough tolerances to not see it as a short and overheat. So if your amp is 2 ohm stable, it will work with setups that present a 2 ohm load.

This may be oversimplified, but you should get the idea.

Most car audio is designed for 4 ohm speakers, so that is what most manfacturers design car audio components around. But higher end audio goes for the maximum effeciency to effectively double an amps output (50W@4ohm = 100W@2ohm - is that right, somebody in audio correct me if I'm wrong). Keep in mind that 0 ohms is a dead short. As you get close to 0 ohms your components have to have tight enough tolerances to not see it as a short and overheat. So if your amp is 2 ohm stable, it will work with setups that present a 2 ohm load.

This may be oversimplified, but you should get the idea.

Right. The speaker will disperse the most energy if the speaker’s impedance (with respect to the speaker wires) matches the output impendence of the amplifier. Efficiency is achieved by matching the speaker’s impedance to the amplifier's output impedance. All amplifiers are designed with a optimal output impedance and that is the impedance you want to set your speakers at.

The 50w@4 ohms and 100w@2 ohms is correct as long as the amplifier is designed to produce the voltage and current need to push the signal into the speaker load. Check your amplifier's specifications, it should show the load and power ratings it is designed to operate at.

Speakers are rated at a nominal (or average) resistance because they do not offer a constant resistance value.

When working with AC as we are with audio signals, we must consider the effective values of the voltage and the current often referred to as the RMS values. The analog to Ohm’s laws is I = V/Z where I is current, V is voltage and Z is impedance.

Just to be politically correct, resistance is the opposition of direct current (DC) flow and impedance is the opposition of alternating current (AC) flow.

Hey Navy, did you tear apart the stock sub-box? And are you getting any rattling outside the vehicle? This is something I would like to do later on when I upgrade my HHR stereo.

Ng

Awwwww man! Just go for broke:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/2178000-2178999/2178189_17_full.jpg

I have plenty of nice deeeep bass now! :thumb:

That's nice, but if I do that I'll have to choose between playing music or playing hockey. There wouldn't be enough room for that box and my equipment bag!

Same here. I play ddr and I need enough room for my ddr pads.

Are we talking Dance, Dance, Revolution!?! :eek:

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/269/269105/folders/231289/1835797sportlogoTM.jpg


And does that make you a freak? :D

Oh you are the man! :) I love my ddr. My two metal pads just got delivered yesterday. Now I get to try out 8 panel. And I am a ddr freak. Every ddr game for every console except gamecube's mario ddr. Along with stepmania on my pc that is hooked up to my tv and my stepmania has well over 1,000 songs.

No, I left the stock box intact. I did have to remove it in order to get the stock sub out. It has a bolt in the back that holds it in.

http://www.hhrclub.org/galleries/loc2095/3002.jpg

I covered the box, the back side of the panel, and the back of my license plate in Road Kill sound deadner

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/5/2/1/speakerbox.jpg

I located my amp in the rear under all the trim panels next to the battery and spare tire.

http://www.hhrclub.org/galleries/loc2095/8002.jpg

Out of sight out of mind. I don't have any rattles outside the car and very minor one inside. I need to crank it up, crawl in the back and try to find those.

SoCal, what amp do you have pushin those 12's?

Right. The speaker will disperse the most energy if the speaker’s impedance (with respect to the speaker wires) matches the output impendence of the amplifier. Efficiency is achieved by matching the speaker’s impedance to the amplifier's output impedance. All amplifiers are designed with a optimal output impedance and that is the impedance you want to set your speakers at.

The 50w@4 ohms and 100w@2 ohms is correct as long as the amplifier is designed to produce the voltage and current need to push the signal into the speaker load. Check your amplifier's specifications, it should show the load and power ratings it is designed to operate at.

Speakers are rated at a nominal (or average) resistance because they do not offer a constant resistance value.

When working with AC as we are with audio signals, we must consider the effective values of the voltage and the current often referred to as the RMS values. The analog to Ohm’s laws is I = V/Z where I is current, V is voltage and Z is impedance.

Just to be politically correct, resistance is the opposition of direct current (DC) flow and impedance is the opposition of alternating current (AC) flow.


Furthermore...

Ohm's Law can be broken down into a bunch of different equations-

E=P/I E=I*R E=SQR(P*R)
I=P/E I=E/R I=SQR(P/R)
P=I*E P=E2/R P=I2*R
R=E2/P R=E/I R=P/I2

P = Power in Watts
E = Electromotive Force in Volts
I = Electrical Current in Amps
R = Electrical Resistance in Ohms

Also, on the note of impedance- it'll shoot all over the place, due to impedance rise, and back emf (back electromagnetic force)- while I don't know all that much about back emf, basically the voice coil of a speaker will tend to oscillate on its own, at this point, iit kills the magnetic field, which in turn creates current in the coil, which creates a magnetic field on the coil, which fights with the magnetic field... ;) Thus, makes the VC shoot up in impedance. If you have a RMS meter and a clamp meter, you can actually chart the impedance over a given frequency band. It's fun to see a '4 ohm' speaker shoot up to 15 ohms :)

SoCal-Plenty of bass, but less trunk space ;)

There is enough room for the amp and the cargo cover to fit??

Is the signal from the stock head unit high or low level (in other words, does it use RCA preamp cables? I have a nice 8 inch sub but it is not DVC. Could I wire in a single voice coil sub, or should I buy a dual one?

On a side note, I spoke with a tech from Soundgate. See my next post.

SoCal, what amp do you have pushin those 12's?

Those are only 10's. No need for 12's in the HHR - waaay overkill.

I have a Pioneer 300-watt monoblock sub amp running at 2-ohms feeding the subs. It is mounted in the tray beneath the floor.

Man you guys are weezy - I've hauled a ton of stuff back there by sliding the box to one side and flipping down 1 side of the rear seat.
Today I hauled 2 garage cabinets (KD), and a 24 x 78" DOOR!!! All with my bandpass box in the car.

I would surely have enough room to haul a hockey equipment bag!

No need for 12's in the HHR - waaay overkill.


Noooooooo!

I think I'm just diff'rent.

:D

I would surely have enough room to haul a hockey equipment bag!

That would depend on what position he plays. My son plays goalie. That bag is HUGE! :eek:

That would depend on what position he plays. My son plays goalie. That bag is HUGE! :eek:


I play goal as well :).

My bag is ginormous...dunno what I'm gonna do when I put a system back there :eek:

The signal from the stock setup is high level. The stock sub is a DVC sub. You would get alittle better sound just replacing the sub