Well it's been a week since I lowered my HHR and I just got back from the alignment shop this morning.

Link: http://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=986

They did not need the front camber kit or the rear shims to get the HHR in specs (Goldline springs). I believe the guy said he didn't have to touch the rear at all. The Toe was off up front and they were able to adjust it to specs.

As for the ride...I drove my HHR to work the last 5 days. Every day consisted of a total of 70 miles round trip to and from work. It's a tad bit bouncier but nothing I can't deal with. On flat roads I can't tell the difference between stock and the Goldlines. If my stock 2LT ride was a 5, I give it now a 4. Now I'll test this week with the alignment done and update this thread next Monday.

I recommend to hold off on any camber/shim kits with Goldline springs. Someone else on this board didn't need them either. The ride is fine and is a lot better than driving my 1989 lifted 4runner, which feels like your driving a brick.

Later
Ng

so you had the sport suspension right?

so you had the sport suspension right?

Correct.

Ng

You did put the shims on right?
So maybe that's why they didn't need to be touched or you didn't use the kits at all?
Thanks
Craig... booksmitty
:cool:

I think I'm gonna order the goldlines tonight..

They did not need the front camber kit or the rear shims to get the HHR in specs (Goldline springs). I believe the guy said he didn't have to touch the rear at all. The Toe was off up front and they were able to adjust it to specs.

You will need the camber kit if you ever have to adjust the front for an alignment. The stock HHR strut bolts are splined and do not offer adjustment. I recommend putting the camber bolts in when you do the alignment, then they will be there when you do need them.

On the rears, - strange, that's the third person I've heard of who hasn't needed the shim kits in back? :confused: Whatever works.

Go for it! :thumb:

really none needed for the rear ??? hmmmm
I think I'll still have them installed when my rear caliper gets sent..

You did put the shims on right?
So maybe that's why they didn't need to be touched or you didn't use the kits at all?
Thanks
Craig... booksmitty
:cool:

No I did not install any shims or the camber bolts during installation. I informed the alignment shop that I had these kits in case they needed them. No rear shims needed and no front camber kit needed. The alignment shop did not need either kit at all.

Ng

Problem: when you do need an alignment later on, you will need the camber bolts installed. They should always be installed at the time of the drop. Shims...well, take 'em or leave 'em depending on your preference.

Hey NG - who did your alignment here locally? Just curious.

Hey NG - who did your alignment here locally? Just curious.

Precision Alignment on Del Rio. 699-3159

Ng

Sounds werid when i get my drop i willl take socals input and get the chamber kit, if i dont need it socla can it be returened??

Sure it can be returned - but you will need it eventually when you have to get you HHR aligned later on.

If you do not need the chamber kit now you will, as the front end wears chamber will then have to be adjusted. this is when you will need it and you better hope it's at hand or already on the car. it may take days before a kit could be located and installed. the best time to install the kit is when you take the struts off! you most likely will not need the kit just because you lowered it,( mine only needed minimal adjustment) there is also the cost to concider, when you are lowering your car install the camber kit. right. no additional cost but the kit. wait until you need the kit and then you may be waiting on a kit to be ordered and paying to have it install. it's no brainer to me.

I just ordered my Goldlines so hopefully they will be here soon and I can get them installed..I can't wait.

I just ordered my Goldlines so hopefully they will be here soon and I can get them installed..I can't wait.
are you going to lower it or farm it out! the only special tool needed is a coil spring clamp, or strut tool, both can be rented at your local parts store. about an hour hour and a half should do it. good luck. :thumb:

Just curious (and planning ahead)-do you need the spring compressor for the new springs? Many, many years ago when I did my 280 Z, I needed the compressor to remove the stock springs, but the new springs were short enough to go on with out compressing them (but I REALLY lowered my Z).

Yes, you need the compressor to unload the strut shaft nut when tightening it during reassembly. If you attempt tightening it under pressure, it will not tighten adequately.

Hope it helps,

You will need the camber kit if you ever have to adjust the front for an alignment. The stock HHR strut bolts are splined and do not offer adjustment. I recommend putting the camber bolts in when you do the alignment, then they will be there when you do need them.

On the rears, - strange, that's the third person I've heard of who hasn't needed the shim kits in back? :confused: Whatever works.

Go for it! :thumb:
I agree with SoCal, put the camber adjustment bolts in. That way you will have the adjustment available in the future. And the don't cost too much.

are you going to lower it or farm it out! the only special tool needed is a coil spring clamp, or strut tool, both can be rented at your local parts store. about an hour hour and a half should do it. good luck. :thumb:

I'd like to do it myself but I'm afraid to start and not be able to finish because I can't reach something..Any idea what it costs to have em installed?

I'd like to do it myself but I'm afraid to start and not be able to finish because I can't reach something..Any idea what it costs to have em installed?

If you don't mind a drive up to Mims a coupla hours north on I-95 I'll install them for you.

I've been doing this stuff for a lot of years and in my experience it's alway's a good idea to install the camber adjusters when doing the springs just so you don't have to do it later. As far as the rear of the HHR suspension goes it most likely will never need the shims unless it was sent out from the manufacture out of whack. That's because it doesn't have an true independent rear suspension. Instead it has a semi-independent torsion beam, and since it is one solid beam from wheel to wheel lowering it simply moves it upward in a straight line. Since it is of this design it is allowed to flex to give it an almost true independent ride and handling characteristic.

If you don't mind a drive up to Mims a coupla hours north on I-95 I'll install them for you.
Hey Dan thats really cool of you..I'll let you know what I decide to do..

Hey Dan thats really cool of you..I'll let you know what I decide to do..
OK, just let me know and we can get you setup. -Dan

Any reputable shop should be albe to install the kit in 1 to 1-1/2 hours tops.
Just call around and ask what their hourly rate is.
I'd definitely look for a shop familiar with lowering cars - they will be quicker!

Local custom shop here advertises a lowering job for $500, not including the parts... insane!

Local custom shop here advertises a lowering job for $500, not including the parts... insane!
That is insane. I've never charged anyone more than $100.00 depending on what kind of car it is and I don't charge local members of the Forum(s) I belong to either. I mean after all, something as simple as the HHR only takes about an hour or so.

Cheapest I found was 250, and I don't think the shop had ever lowered a car before.

anyone in the Naples area that would like to lower mine when i get it??

anyone in the NAPLES FL area that would like to help me install mine when i get it??

sorry about the double posts.

anyone in the Naples area that would like to lower mine when i get it??
Naples is about 5 hours from here, it's too bad because I'd be happy to help you out. I mean, you can make the drive if you like. Maybe you have a reason to visit the Orlando area.....LOL

I've lowered cars and raised trucks. The HHR was the easiest so far. The rear is stupid easy. A bolt and a nut on each side, that's it. The front is a typical strut set-up, same as all the rest. I have a compressor which makes things easy since I do my work solo (in my garage).

Ng

thanks for the input did you use the camber kit?

thanks for the input did you use the camber kit?

I bought both the camber kit and the rear shims. When I took the vehicle to the alignment shop they did not use them. They adjusted the front Toe only. If you are strapped for cash you can get away with holding off on them. Others on this forum are saying that you will need them later on for camber adjustments down the road. So it's your call. See the following link for my spring install thread:

http://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=986

Ng

Thanks ng8650

Did your HHR have the sport susp?

Did your HHR have the sport susp?
yeah he has the 2lt :beer:

Hey Dan-D can you enlighten me, I just bought my HHR and want to lower it ASAP, I saw you have quite a few posts. What kit is being used, I have been a car builder all of my life, so the install will be part of why I bought the HHR.

Hey Dan-D can you enlighten me, I just bought my HHR and want to lower it ASAP, I saw you have quite a few posts. What kit is being used, I have been a car builder all of my life, so the install will be part of why I bought the HHR.

Like the majority here I installed the Gold Lines becuse I wanted the back level with the front, I also installed the front camber adjusters just so I wouldn't have to mess with them later. I figured they were better off installed than not since I had to remove the factory bolts anyway. I also figured they would get lost somewhere in the shop...LOL

good point Dan-D

good point Dan-D

Mike, if you could see how messy my shop can get, especially after a weekend g2g you would truely understand. :smile:

HI do u have a picture of how the front camber kit should look like installed ??

Thanks,
Traketo :thumb:

HI do u have a picture of how the front camber kit should look like installed ??

Thanks,
Traketo :thumb:
Not much to see, hope this helps. Sorry for the blur, my camera skills aren't the best. -Dan

Lock Bolt
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid203/pab3154b9dab226c76936fbb6e897c3f6/ef8bd8b0.jpg

Adjustment bolt and large tab
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid203/p24b95476c7a344840c9926e61dca25d1/ef8bd8b1.jpg

All installed - keep in mind that you can't see the cam on the bolt, but it is facing inward toward the center of the car. You also can't see the small tab and it's facing inward also.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid203/p183b7957f1bbffe32506453646918a51/ef8bd8af.jpg

Just ordered my Goldlines from SoCal can't wait

Just ordered my Goldlines from SoCal can't wait

When you get her dropped, possible that I can check her out in person? :confused:

where abouts in South FL ?

Dan, you almost stripped the nut! Did you use the wrong size socket or did you let the impact take over? :confused:

Ng

When you get her dropped, possible that I can check her out in person? :confused:

no prob, once I get it done I'll PM you to set it up :thumb:

where abouts in South FL ?

Kendall area, near Metro Zoo

Dan, you almost stripped the nut! Did you use the wrong size socket or did you let the impact take over? :confused:

Ng

No, the nut isn't anywhere near stripped. It's the way it was crimped making it a lock nut, it looks a lot worse than it is.

No, the nut isn't anywhere near stripped. It's the way it was crimped making it a lock nut, it looks a lot worse than it is.

:confused:

any bottoming out issues with the shocks ?

:confused:

Basically the dark coating on the nut peaks just wore off when tightening.

any bottoming out issues with the shocks ?

None yet, but then again I live in flat Florida and am very cautious on any kind of bump. In my opinion, the stock shocks WILL be a problem with bottoming out if the roadway surface is less then flat. I will replace my stock shocks and struts as soon as someone comes out with a shortened version designed for use with shorter springs. In my experience with lowered cars I would guess the stockers won't last a year average on a lowered HHR.

None yet, but then again I live in flat Florida and am very cautious on any kind of bump. In my opinion, the stock shocks WILL be a problem with bottoming out if the roadway surface is less then flat. I will replace my stock shocks and struts as soon as someone comes out with a shortened version designed for use with shorter springs. In my experience with lowered cars I would guess the stockers won't last a year average on a lowered HHR.
i'm sure the shocks will.
I think I've resolved mine... more to come later...

no prob, once I get it done I'll PM you to set it up :thumb:

I'd appreciate that. :thumb:

i'm sure the shocks will.
I think I've resolved mine... more to come later...

Yes..do tell :)

;) Socal you should make some shocks that work with lowerd HHRS and give the car a better than stock ride with plus size rims! :thumb: , Or maybe find a compant that can help this come true ;)

;) Socal you should make some shocks that work with lowerd HHRS and give the car a better than stock ride with plus size rims! :thumb: , Or maybe find a compant that can help this come true ;)

Sorry to burst the bubble (of your original idea! :D ) - but we have been working on this for quite a while already! It takes time to do things right.
As soon as everything is perfect we will have them on our site for sale.

Right now the priority is the Airbag Kit.
We're almost done wrapping that one up. :thumb:

Airbag kit? so you can rise and lower your car on the push of a button. :nuts: WOWOW :nuts: so you can slam it for shows and then put it to ride hight for normal driving, pimp. How much is something like this going to costs? :thumb: :bow:

All the info will be on our web site soon...

caint wait, is it front and rear kit? :thumb: :one:

The FULL boat - all the way around.

The FULL boat - all the way around.
Good to hear....

The FULL boat - all the way around.

can hardly wait for these to hit the streets... :thumb:

can hardly wait for these to hit the streets... :thumb:
Or your tires, springs, shocks... hit the street?

Or your tires, springs, shocks... hit the street?

true

Hi everyone,

I was wondering what should how many lbs of torque should I tighten all of the nuts and bolts when I install my gold-line springs??

Thanks,
Traketo

Heres some standard torque values inch pounds..
You might want to use loctite (blue color one) if no other locking mechanism is used.. (lock washer, cotter pin, self locking nut, safety wire etc.)


0.2500 1/4–28 30 to 50
0.3125 5/16–24 60 to 90
0.3750 3/8–24 95 to 160
0.4375 7/16–20 220 to 280
0.5000 1/2–20 290 to 510
0.5625 9/16–18 480 to 850
0.6250 5/8–18 660 to 980
0.7500 3/4–16 1300 to 2000 1650
0.8750 7/8–14 1500 to 3300 2400
1.000 1–12 or 1–14 2200 to 5300 3750
1.1250 1–1/8–12 3000 to 6200
1.2500 1–1/4–12 5400 to 8600

:one:

Use German Torque:

Goodn'Tight... :D

Ng

And re-check them often! :thumb:

Not much to see, hope this helps. Sorry for the blur, my camera skills aren't the best. -Dan

All installed - keep in mind that you can't see the cam on the bolt, but it is facing inward toward the center of the car. You also can't see the small tab and it's facing inward also.

Just wanted to add my :2cents:...
I recently swapped my stock springs with the GoldLine variety using other threads on this site (Thanks NG:thumb:) and wanted to give a big :thumb: to Dan-D for providing the info (and pic's) on the Camber Bolts (thanks to Mike for seeing to it they got to me!!!). It really helped alot!!! Believe it or not... bolt arrows pointed in (toward engine) and tabs pointing out (toward tire) left the camber IN SPEC!!! Put about 180miles on the springs and ended up getting aligned last night... I couldn't believe it was in spec!!! :eek:

Thanks again Dan, NG (and ALL)... for the input and feedback re: lowering. Your :one: in my book!

FYI- garage install on jackstands took 2.5hrs (2 people)... and we're both only weekend warrior mechanics (but I do have air tools).