I installed a set of running boards today. Instructions and all needed parts are included with the kit. There is no mention of how to remove the old molding, which is cliped on at the top, and slides forward once the top clips and the screws at each end are removed. On mine even with the clips popped out, it still did not budge. I ended up using force, breaking some of the old moldings clips. But it was getting replaced anyway.....

Price of the moldings was $445.00 with the trade (wholesale) discount. I recall that I saw a dealer advertising them for this price as well.

You will need several metric sockets and wrenches, plus a deep 13mm and a 30 torx socket, all can be had at any hardware/automotive store.

You can do this in your driveway, there is no need to lift the vehicle.

See my post on page 2 for more information and pictures of the removed molding

PIXXXXX!!! :D

Ng

http://home.att.net/~cz17/posthhr.jpg

Here is a after pix, testing the effectiveness of the running boards. After looking at the picture I need rear mud flaps as well

Are you going to remove the chip guard from the rear door?

I would leave it there for the extra protection.

What kind of trim are you refering to? Do you still have the instructions? Can you scan them and post them? Did they come pre-painted?

What if your HHR was lowerd do you need the Mud flaps then?

The running boards do come painted. That I know for a fact. Same thing for the spoiler but for only certain colors.

Where is the how to? :confused: The thread is in the how to section so I was actualy expecting a how to, not just a pic an a post that instruction come with the running boards and you'll need a few tools. :roll:

Wow! It looks like you took your HHR for some 4x4ing... :eek:

Ng

I really don't think there is a need to post the instructions or pictures of the installation as the instructions, which come in the box, are excellent, complete with drawings, and will be able to guide anybody with any mechanical skills through the job. Also in the box are all the parts you will need. One note: make sure you properly identify each bracket, as they all look the same, but there are actually 3 different ones. The instructions also point this out.

Of course, if you are one of those that cannot use a screw driver without hurting yourself, don't continue.

I am posting 2 more pictures of the removed molding, as the instructions just say to remove it, with a reference to a GM operation which we don't have.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/5/6/1/hhr-trim2j.jpg

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/5/6/1/hhr-silltrim1.jpg

The top picture is of the back of the drivers side, front to the right, sill molding that must be removed. The top clips (green) pop out by putting a wedge between the body and the molding and prying outward.

Note: no metal prybars, screw drivers, etc. Use a plastic wedge or a piece of wood. The way I did the drivers side was to remove the 2 screws (see above blue arrow) then from the front pulled the molding away from the body. It bent and twisted, but then relented and came off.

The blue arrows point to the 2 screws that need to be removed in both wheel wells, and the bottom arrows (red) point to the locations of the sliding brackets that are suppose to slide forwards. As I stated in my original post, they did not slide, and several ended up broken when I showed it who was boss. If they break it doesn't matter as they won't be used anyway.

Tool list:
15mm wrench
10 and 13mm socket. Helps if 13 is a deep socket.
T30 torx bit

I decided to leave the plastic fender guards just for insurance. It is much simpler to mask off and just paint it in case that one stray rock makes it past the running boards

Better. :bow:

I'm suprised that that part had to come off. So I guess the install is not hard to do then

If I could get them prepainted in orange for 445 Id do it in a heartbeat.

If that is the factory orange, get your wallet out, part number is 17800496 (they come pre painted for all the colors). Now you just have to get them wholesale...
Check out this site, they have them for wholesale.
http://www.chevrolet-parts-dealer.com/accessories.htm

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?addtocart=1&addpartnumber=17800496&singlepart=1&partnumber=17800496

Hows that. You sure thats the right color

Well, I ordered mine by the description "red" even though the sales people call it "Sport Red Metalic". I don't see very many versions of Orange, so I would go with "Sunburst Orange" being "Orange" in the accessory catalog.
If you have doubts, go by your local dealer, ask them if that is the orange for your car. You could also check out a new car broucher as they will list all the colors.

The part number for each color is on the item pick list, 17800496 is the orange. Cost is $445.63
Here is the complete list at http://www.chevrolet-parts-dealer.com/accessories.htm
17800497 - Amethyst
12499242 Cashmere
12499501 Black
12499502 Red
12499503 Silver (Light)
12499504 Blue
17800494 Silver (Dark)
17800495 White
17800496 Orange

Jeepers this Chevy parts place marked theirs down. Hmmm I wonder why? From $524.81 to $456.18

http://chevrolet.autowebaccessories.com/store/chevrolet-hhr-accessories-cat691_1550.php

Note: no metal prybars, screw drivers, etc. Use a plastic wedge or a piece of wood. The way I did the drivers side was to remove the 2 screws (see above blue arrow) then from the front pulled the molding away from the body. It bent and twisted, but then relented and came off.
Any ideas on what to use as a wedge? I don't have any wood kicking around to use and I went to Home Depot to look for something to use but came up empty handed.

Plan on installing them this weekend, so any pointers on a non-metal wedge would be greatly appreciated.

My husband installed ours a couple weeks ago and he did not use a wedge he just pulled realy hard, yes it did brake some clips but they are not needed anymore.. Good Luck:thumb: it took him about 2 1/2 hours to 3 but once he got one side done the other was easy only took him 15 minutes.

Hey.. goto the Doors (Millwork) section @ Homedepot and get some wood Shims.. They should have a little package of about 6 - 10 shims i think its less than 5$... they also have a recycled wood/plastic kind too in a greenish box!! Just goto the Millwork desk and they will point you in the Right Direction!! woot woot^^

The boards are on.

Other than bracket alignment issues that took forever to address, it wasn't too bad.

Went out this morning and looked at them in the daylight (finished installing them at 9:30 last night) and see I need to adjust the passengar side a bit...it's a bit too far forward.

Pics to follow.

Here are some of the pics, the rest are in my gallery.

Before the install:
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/1/7/7/0/before.JPG

After the install:
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/1/7/7/0/passside.JPG

Nicely done!:thumb:

Thanks.

Of course after I had it all done, I realized I probably should've used Loctite on the bolts, etc :censored:

Guess I'll get mine on order and installed before some serious stuff comes along. Thanks for sharing the instructions and pictures.

Got mine ordered today. They are only available in primer now. My local GM parts distributor said he found about 5 sets nationally and gave me the addresses and dealers names. I ordered mine from east TN for a little over $400 shipped and the cheapest to get them painted will be $250. I should have them by the first part of the week and drop em off at the shop for paint and try to get them installed next weekend, weather permitting.

If you need a real good How TO look for the post by TCRNCOB she has pics and instructions for every step.

If you need a real good How TO look for the post by TCRNCOB she has pics and instructions for every step.
Not all steps.

She left out the "curse like a sailor when things don't line up" step :lol:

Try P&G GM parts for #17800496 $422.62
https://www.partszoneonline.com/productList.php

Thanks, I got mine today. Off to the painter in the morning.

Well, I got the driver's side board on after work today along with the splash guards. I love the look!!! I can see now why small hands would help in such tight places too. Only problem I ran into was lining up the rear bolt in the wheelwell. I finally got it wrestled into place. In the morning, the other side and I'm done..........whewwwwwwww!!!!

I just got my running boards from GM Parts Direct and the instructions everyones talking about are missing.
It doesnt look too difficult to install but I'm sure they are nice to have.
Would someone be able to scan the instructions and email them to me?? I would so appreciate it!!
I really dont want to deal with GM Parts Direct again as it already took them 22 days:cussing: to get me the boards since I ordered them.

http://chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5750&highlight=install


Give this thread a try, a step by step on the install,,from a Woman's View.
Theresa did them herself.

Good luck

yeah i did see that thread too, and it doesnt look to difficult,
was just hoping that someone might be able to scan the instructions for me:bow:

PM her she might still have them

I still have the install instructions from when I installed my own.

If I ever stop working insane amounts of overtime, I'll try and scan them.

I still have the install instructions from when I installed my own.

If I ever stop working insane amounts of overtime, I'll try and scan them.

That would be Awesome:thumb:

I have installed them, I don't need the instructions anymore, Thanks Anyway

Where did you get the running boards cuz im liking the way they look!!!

I got them from gmpartsdirect.com

Thanks for for this post I found it really helpful. Just thought I would add my two cents worth. I installed silver running boards on my metallic red HHR. I really like the look and saved myself a few bucks. I got my kit from GMpartsdirect. It was different from the others I've seen in different posts. It came with six identical brackets that requires two holes for each bracket be drilled and I recommend tapped. The instructions tool list showed sockets that weren't required but omitted the drill and tap that were needed. I measured the hole distances from the locator pin with the brackets postioned on the running board. I transfered these measurements to side of the vehicle measuring from the locator pin hole. I had no problem aligning the boards using this method.

ZIP