I can get a kicker 10L7 real cheap but its 4ohm. What is the difference between a 4ohm and a 2ohm sub. I noticed when it was 4ohm the max and rms wattage dropped quite a bit?

Lower the ohms, better the sound. Brief answer

K thats really all I needed. How much of a difference is there. If I could get a kicker 10l7 and a kicker box for about 150 should i do it or spend probably 100 extra and get it seperately to get a 2ohm

You have to not only worry about the sub but the amp driving it. ;) Do you already have an amp chose or are you going to purchase your amp based on your sub decision? :confused:

Pretty much If I get a good deal on either I will purchase the other accordingly. Why can't subs and amps be plug and play. :) I was looking at

http://static.ubid.com/mgen/pimg/dlxzoom.ms?img=/pimg/209461.jpg&outputx=400&outputy=400&level=1&x=0&y=0&backcolor=0x80664d&nc=1

• 10" Solo-Baric L7 Subwoofer (S10L7)
• Slim Truck Style Sealed Enclosure For Maximum Sound Quality
• 3/4" Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) Construction
• High Density Automotive-Grade Carpeting
• Gray Cast Aluminum Inserts
• Cast Aluminum L7 Woofer Grille
• 4-Ohm Impedance
• 600 Watts RMS / 1200 Watts Peak Power Handling (using a subsonic filter)
• 400 Watts RMS / 800 Watts Peak Power Handling (without a subsonic filter)
• Dimensions: 17 1/2" W x 14 1/2" H x 9 1/4" D (at bottom) to 6 1/8" D (at top)

And then ZX750.1 Kicker amp. Which only shows 2ohm. Which is when I started reading into all this ohm mumbojumbo.

Nice choice of subwoofer. :bow:

The sub, the box, and the grill come with it and its only 174.00

ZX750.1 will do 350 watts at 4 ohm or 750 watts at 2 ohm. you are going to want 600 watts rms for that sub. how much are you looking to spend on an amp.

Thats crazy its a 400 watt difference. I was trying to keep all this as low as possible, but still getting a good system. I'm just gonna keep looking I guess. I'll just make sure its 2ohm.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14746
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14926
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16895
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15527

all of these amps are under $400 shipped

Lower the ohms, better the sound. Brief answer


<no>

Horrible assumption.

P.S.- Put a 750.1 on demo today, birthsheet read 940w :)

The basic rule is to "match" the speaker with the amplifier, to achieve maximum performance. Technically, the quality of the sound is based on the frequency response of the speaker + cabinet + amplifier.

As far as the OHMs mumbojumbo, if you get a sub that is 2 ohms, you will want to drive it with an amplifier that is rated at running 2 ohms, to achieve maximum power transfer. But remember, these are rules for those extreme audiophile guys.

You can run a 4 ohm sub from say a 2 ohm amp, and still achieve the sound quality you are looking for. Because the 4 ohm is a higher load, it will theoretically draw less current, and thus you consume approximately half the power. But be careful in going the opposite way, meaning running a 2 ohm load from an amp that is only capable of running at 4 ohms, because, you will end up with a dead amp after a while.

Honestly, most people will not be able to hear the difference from the naked ear. Remember, the Subwoofer speaker general works in the very low frequency range say between 40hz-150hz. Perfect hearing is considered 20hz-20khz. The Subs are really meant to "feel" at these frequencies, so IMO, find a shop that is willing to allow you to "test-drive" different setups.

Everyone, as well as the difference genre of music, has different "flavors" of BASS response, which will ultimately determine the type of Subs you should get.

The basic rule is to "match" the speaker with the amplifier, to achieve maximum performance. Technically, the quality of the sound is based on the frequency response of the speaker + cabinet + amplifier.

As far as the OHMs mumbojumbo, if you get a sub that is 2 ohms, you will want to drive it with an amplifier that is rated at running 2 ohms, to achieve maximum power transfer. But remember, these are rules for those extreme audiophile guys.

You can run a 4 ohm sub from say a 2 ohm amp, and still achieve the sound quality you are looking for. Because the 4 ohm is a higher load, it will theoretically draw less current, and thus you consume approximately half the power. But be careful in going the opposite way, meaning running a 2 ohm load from an amp that is only capable of running at 4 ohms, because, you will end up with a dead amp after a while.

Honestly, most people will not be able to hear the difference from the naked ear. Remember, the Subwoofer speaker general works in the very low frequency range say between 40hz-150hz. Perfect hearing is considered 20hz-20khz. The Subs are really meant to "feel" at these frequencies, so IMO, find a shop that is willing to allow you to "test-drive" different setups.

Everyone, as well as the difference genre of music, has different "flavors" of BASS response, which will ultimately determine the type of Subs you should get.


If setup correctly, you can run an amp under it's rec'd impedance for as long as the amp would normally last. Back EMF will cause that 2 ohms to shoot all over the place, and the amp will very very rarely see a 2 ohm load.