I have owned a few front drivers and have never had as much trouble with wheel hop as I do with my HHR. Anyone know of any ideas to help reduce this? My HHR is lowered already, and I have tried dropping the tire pressure (doesn't make sense to me since they are stock tires). Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I run 22-25psi when doing timed runs. It makes a big difference.
Slipping that clutch a little more will help too (so it doesn't lock up immediately)!

I don't have to worry about it as much with the automatic - but it will spin the tires a whole lot now that I've changed to the IMCO turbo muffler. Huge difference.

i was gonna suggest slipping the clutch some more, i havent had any problems launching mine and getting wheel hop

please check here (http://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1123)

we're looking to develop a part that will certainly help with this problem...

if you can provide pictures and possibly take some measurements, we'll be that much farther ahead...

EDIT: when you dump the clutch it should grab or spin, wheel hop will KILL your mounts, especially the tranny mounts...

(looking for a 2.2 and 2.4 here)

How easy do your wheels spin, Mike? My stock 2.4 does burnouts at 1/2 throttle. It even will spin the tires from a slight roll. Maybe the ground on the East coast is more slippery. :p:

I also have tremendous torque steer. The other day, I pulled away from a light and was not holding the wheel tightly. It yanked out of my hands and veered to the left into oncoming traffic.

Why are some people getting wheel hop??? That is from the tires gripping too much (too much hook-up), isnt it?

My PSI was stock so about 32. I tried feathering the clutch a couple times but still got a lot of hop out of the 2.2L. Will dropping the PSI make that much difference? On the street (asphault) I go from a 3k drop in first and just spin a bit the hook up and gone... at the strip they have cement and I might as well have a jackhammer in my engine bay. I tried launching higher and lower but it either hops longer or bogs down. Thanks for the input thus far guys!

please check here (http://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1123)

we're looking to develop a part that will certainly help with this problem...

if you can provide pictures and possibly take some measurements, we'll be that much farther ahead...

EDIT: when you dump the clutch it should grab or spin, wheel hop will KILL your mounts, especially the tranny mounts...

(looking for a 2.2 and 2.4 here)


what do u need pics of? :confused:

How easy do your wheels spin, Mike? My stock 2.4 does burnouts at 1/2 throttle. It even will spin the tires from a slight roll. Maybe the ground on the East coast is more slippery. :p:

I also have tremendous torque steer. The other day, I pulled away from a light and was not holding the wheel tightly. It yanked out of my hands and veered to the left into oncoming traffic.

Why are some people getting wheel hop??? That is from the tires gripping too much (too much hook-up), isnt it?

Oh, mine will do plenty of burnouts! With the IMCO turbo muffler and Synthetic (Mobil 1) oil, I'm pushing a few extra hp now.

Wheel hop is more prevalent in sticks than auto's and is usually due to a rough launch. Clutch slipping helps - but in an auto it shouldn't be an issue unless you're into the throttle waaaay too much. I'm a leadfoot and never get hop.

Just checked my pressure today, I'm running:

24.5 front
27.5 rear

Run what works for you. I like mine low and grippy and they are not wearing bad at all. (I usually rotate every oil change).

32psi is way too pumped for the HHR - it only weighs 3155lbs.

My PSI was stock so about 32. I tried feathering the clutch a couple times but still got a lot of hop out of the 2.2L. Will dropping the PSI make that much difference? On the street (asphault) I go from a 3k drop in first and just spin a bit the hook up and gone... at the strip they have cement and I might as well have a jackhammer in my engine bay. I tried launching higher and lower but it either hops longer or bogs down. Thanks for the input thus far guys!

For drag racing, you need a slight bit of burnout, or as you have discovered yourself, you either bog or hop. This is why people do a lot of experimenting with widths and compounds of their slicks. And why everyone doesnt put on the fattest tire that they can find. I would think that increasing your tire pressure would help reduce your traction and giving you more slippage, thus eliminating the bog or the hopping. Cant hurt to try. I used to autocross my car, and the hot trick was 40 or 50 PSI. Everybody brought propane tanks converted to hold air.

Remember-when you do a burnout, the most damage is done by the initial jolt. Once the tires are spinning, you are only wasting the rubber. Wheel hop puts stress on the universal joints, tranny, etc. each time it 'hops'.

I have owned a few front drivers and have never had as much trouble with wheel hop as I do with my HHR. Anyone know of any ideas to help reduce this? My HHR is lowered already, and I have tried dropping the tire pressure (doesn't make sense to me since they are stock tires). Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
I had a fully bolted sentra before the HHR. it had bad torque steer and wheel hop. easy solution. buy front and rear motor mounts and fill them with windo-weld. Click here for a good write on filling motor mounts (http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm)

I have owned a few front drivers and have never had as much trouble with wheel hop as I do with my HHR. Anyone know of any ideas to help reduce this? My HHR is lowered already, and I have tried dropping the tire pressure (doesn't make sense to me since they are stock tires). Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Jason, I thought about this much while I was on a road trip Friday, and realized 2 things:

1) My HHR is lowered, and I'm certain this has reduced my wheel hop quite a bit (see #2).

2) The stock HHR suspension has nearly 7-inches of travel - that's a lot!) I'm sure the first 3-inches are very soft (as it is a progressive suspension), to soak up road bumps. This would account for a great deal of the hop you are experiencing.

As far as solutions, lowering is obvious. If you don't want to lower your HHR, you might try installing some spring spacers to stiffen the rates. This will obviously stiffen your road ride also, but it should cure the hop problem.

Just wanted to address this further for you...

[QUOTE=SoCalHHR]Jason, I thought about this much while I was on a road trip Friday, and realized 2 things:

1) My HHR is lowered, and I'm certain this has reduced my wheel hop quite a bit (see #2).

2) The stock HHR suspension has nearly 7-inches of travel - that's a lot!) I'm sure the first 3-inches are very soft (as it is a progressive suspension), to soak up road bumps. This would account for a great deal of the hop you are experiencing.

QUOTE]

Hey Mike

Thanks for the help but if you read the 2nd or so line I am already lowered. Bought the springs from your website! :one: I will get some video up here as soon as I can to show the hop, does this site accept WMV's?

Jason- you have to host your video on another site somewhere and link to it.

(Sorry, I didn't see that you were dropped already!) :red:

Hope it helps.

its cool. Thanks for the ehlp on the video. Are there any hosting sites like Photobucket for vids?

The only one I know of is Google Videos - but it takes a few days to get setup.

Hope it helps,

I have owned a few front drivers and have never had as much trouble with wheel hop as I do with my HHR. Anyone know of any ideas to help reduce this? My HHR is lowered already, and I have tried dropping the tire pressure (doesn't make sense to me since they are stock tires). Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Possible need the upgraded transmisson mount...

Ingeal makes a shcok for the engine that really helps with this chekout the cobalt site.

Hey Sindy,

Need another combo thingie done here. Here's the other thread.......

wheel hopping problem (http://chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7023)

Thanks!!

Ingeal makes a shcok for the engine that really helps with this chekout the cobalt site.

I wonder if it looks something like this ?

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e72/hvrodpics/Damper.jpg

I've since modified the bracket a bit.. cut off the tab shown in the lower left ....
works great...:thumb:

its listed as only fitting the 2.0 eco can u show us what you did to fit it on a 2.2 and maybe even a 2.4..:bow:

In the instructions, it shows you to mount it over motor mount (near the widow washer side) .. Its a bit confine there with the window washer unit being there..

So I mounted if in front of the motor mount.. in the pic you can see the pulley. (see image one thread above)
I did have to modify the bracket to accept the new location, by adding a mounting hole in the plate mounting bracket.

I used only one of the engine mount bolt holes.

The other bracket mounts to the engine, (where the engine lift bracket is located)
Hope that helps some...

yes it helps i just wanted to know i could make it work ..no more wheel hop here i come :one:

When you install one of these dampers be aware that there is more vibration felt inside the vehicle. Mostly at lower RPM's, it's not untolerable, but may take a little getting used too. You will also have air filter fitment issues if running the CGS, but I do like the end results.....

As far as mods to make it fit, I went a little different than HVROD, I raised my washer bottle up about 1/4" for clearance issues and decided to "shim" the damper so it was parallel while offsetting the bracket to gain enough clearance. (last picture you can see new hole for washer bottle, and shims on the rear part of the damper)


HVROD.......What setting (mm) do you run yours at? I've got my on 12 (kinda rough for me) and I was going to try 13 or 14 to see the difference. Any comments or suggestions?



http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o92/ODIOUS_/100_1233.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o92/ODIOUS_/100_1226.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o92/ODIOUS_/100_1234.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o92/ODIOUS_/100_1242.jpg

it fits all models of the engine.

When you install one of these dampers be aware that there is more vibration felt inside the vehicle. Mostly at lower RPM's, it's not untolerable, but may take a little getting used too. You will also have air filter fitment issues if running the CGS, but I do like the end results.....

As far as mods to make it fit, I went a little different than HVROD, I raised my washer bottle up about 1/4" for clearance issues and decided to "shim" the damper so it was parallel while offsetting the bracket to gain enough clearance. (last picture you can see new hole for washer bottle, and shims on the rear part of the damper)


HVROD.......What setting (mm) do you run yours at? I've got my on 12 (kinda rough for me) and I was going to try 13 or 14 to see the difference. Any comments or suggestions?



http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o92/ODIOUS_/100_1233.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o92/ODIOUS_/100_1226.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o92/ODIOUS_/100_1234.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o92/ODIOUS_/100_1242.jpg

Mounting it there , I did find that I did get alot vibrations.. maybe the same you mention to me.. I've moved my damper to the front of the motor mount , using the existing motor mount as an anchor point/bolt on point.

For your filter you could change to the K&N SN2540 (also has a 20 degree offsef flange end) that will let you retain the CGS intake, and give you a bit more room...

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e72/hvrodpics/SN-2540.jpg

Mounting it there , I did find that I did get alot vibrations.. maybe the same you mention to me.. I've moved my damper to the front of the motor mount , using the existing motor mount as an anchor point/bolt on point.

For your filter you could change to the K&N SN2540 (also has a 20 degree offsef flange end) that will let you retain the CGS intake, and give you a bit more room...

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e72/hvrodpics/SN-2540.jpg

HVROD......Thanks for the optional mount idea and the specs on the K/N. I'm going to call my supplier and get one ordered up.....Regards

HVROD......Thanks for the optional mount idea and the specs on the K/N. I'm going to call my supplier and get one ordered up.....Regards

Heres a comparsion .. CGS (gets squeezed into the tight area due to its size ) VS KN filter...
With the 20 degree offset , you can rotate the filter a bit for additional clearance and positioning.

Hope this helps..
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e72/hvrodpics/CGSVSKN.jpg