I have the 2LT HHR with all the goodies including the 17" rims. With the open rim design you can see the ugly drum brakes on the rear axle. Does anybody know if there is a conversion to have disk brakes all the way around?

I am planning to paint drums black.
:cool:

I'm painting mine also. My drums are going to be silver right along with the calipers.

Hadn't thought of silver......

I figured my HHR is silver so it will look good even though the shades wont match. I didn't want one of the standard colors like red, blue, or yellow because they will stand out way too much for my taste. I want them to have a more subtle look.

I have the 2LT HHR with all the goodies including the 17" rims. With the open rim design you can see the ugly drum brakes on the rear axle. Does anybody know if there is a conversion to have disk brakes all the way around?

Yes - RSM makes one, and although ti is quite pricey ($900), it features nice parts from what I've heard. See it HERE (http://www.rsmracing.com/catalog.htm).

I'm betting you could order the parts direct from your dealer for less.
The HHR rides on a Cobalt platform.

And WELCOME!!! :thumb:

Thanks for the info. Will have to call the dealership parts dept. to see if they can give me some more info and hopefully a better price too.

Paint is $1.59- 1.99

That works for me! :cool:

Full rear disc conversion, with larger rotors... works for me...

I have a Sandstone HHR, I was thinking of painting mine a glossy brown....

CBL

will that conversion kit work its ment to be for the cobolt, but the HHR is based on it?

I haven't seen the kit for the cobalt.. But I believe its probably the same..conversion kit...


Project for this morning.. install the rear disc calipers... :D

let us know how the install goes.

I did the install.
Have some concerns with GM....
When I was removing the (4) bolts that hold the mounting plate & mounting spindle for the wheel... the nuts were just above snug..not real tight.. You all should check yours also... When I did my install , I was sure to make sure those nuts were loctite in (Used blue ) (Red is pernament)

Well, disappointing news, I checked with the parts dept. at the local dealership about Cobalt disk brakes - they were no help. Then, I tried Pep Boys to see if they could help, none there. They said to try the local custom shop. So, I will hopefully get there this week and see if they can help. More to follow after I talk to them.

Heres upgrades what the rear part of the vehicle has gone thru.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e72/hvrodpics/REARCALLOUT.jpg

looking good let us know how they work!

I need to do a few more things to the vehicle
To really check out all the components out..

But to tell you this.. there is a big stopping difference disc vs brake shoes. :thumb:

Did the kit include a new brake proportion valve? You will need one to prevent rear lockups under hard braking when switching from drums to discs.

No extra valves... I believe the ABS system, takes care of the locking up of wheels/brakes.

Mike, hows the sway bar deliveries looking ?

Heres upgrades what the rear part of the vehicle has gone thru.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e72/hvrodpics/REARCALLOUT.jpg

I see the gibson muffler is not in the stock location, how is that working out? How was the install?

Ng

The Gibson is in its stock location, its just not as huge as the stock one..
I have to accomplish some other items before the full potenial of the Cat Back is obtained.

Some of which I haven't heard mention yet. but when it is , I will respond back... for right now we all have to wait..

The Gibson is in its stock location, its just not as huge as the stock one..
I have to accomplish some other items before the full potenial of the Cat Back is obtained.

Some of which I haven't heard mention yet. but when it is , I will respond back... for right now we all have to wait..

I had a brainfart...I thought the pic was of the passengers side but now I realize it's the drivers side. BTW...You are way over due on some how-to's and pictures bro, :D

Ng

No extra valves... I believe the ABS system, takes care of the locking up of wheels/brakes.

Mike, hows the sway bar deliveries looking ?

I'll let you know as soon as I hear anything.

painting calipers and rotors green, but now looking into the cot of going 4 wheel disc...

I checked with a local tuner shop to see if they could help. They couldn't find any aftermarket dealers but, they did tell me who to talk to at the dealership. After name-dropping and using the good'ole boy network I got some prices. It will be about $1100. That will include new hubs, rotors, calibers, and a master cyclinder. There will be misc. expenses too, such as lines ect.

Did the kit include a new brake proportion valve? You will need one to prevent rear lockups under hard braking when switching from drums to discs.

The proportioning valve would actually allow you to dial up the pressure to the back since drums are self actuating and require little pressure. Disk actually require more pressure. Depending on the difference between front and rear piston size and line length, sometimes you can just pull the stock proportioning valve and be right in the neighborhood. But you are right in that a good kit should include a proportioning valve for maximum tuning.

I have seen the ratio for brakes is 60% front 40% rear. this is from one of the brake company..

Hope it helps..

That's ideal on a well balanced car, but like I said on drums, they are self actuated. On some systems they are mabye 10-20 percent as far as line pressure. Once the pads start digging in it take very little to hold them there.

I painted mine green on my Black HHR, it is all part of the color scheme being used and I didn't want to do the same old red thing, and it looks good...A 4 wheel disc set-up would likely be an expense that I wouldn' t really need...

Paint works for me too.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/3/0/5/DSC00565.JPG

My rear drums came already painted black :thumb:

so is painting the rear drums just as easy as getting a spray can and going to town with it?

After removing the wheels, you should stuff some newspaper around and behind the drums to stop overspray. Then use a wire brush to bust off some of the rust. I like to wipe off the rust dust with alcohol on a rag, then let air dry. Shoot a few light coats on the drum being careful not to get too much on the stud threads. Let it dry a few minutes and put the wheel back on.

Repeat for other side!

cool cool..thanks for the info mike! I think I've been to pep boys everyday for the past two weeks...lol! One more trip this weekend for paint wont hurt.

Don't forget a wire brush to bust off the rust!

It's really a simple and fun "mod' to do - it looks much nicer when you're done!

one more thing, would any high heat engine paint do? I've seen paint kits for caliper breaks being sold and was wondering if that's the only option I have.

I used a Krylon Rust Tough Enamel - Flat Black, found in the Auto paint section of my local Kragens. I also taped off each stud. The Flat black perfectly matched the existing black very well, so all I needed to do was the exposed area that was rusted. I did not have to coat the whole drum.

one more thing, would any high heat engine paint do? I've seen paint kits for caliper breaks being sold and was wondering if that's the only option I have.

I just use regular flat black paint - no problems. I've heard others on the site use "regular" paint on the front disc calipers with no problems, so I don't think the drums will overheat the paint.

Good luck with it! :thumb: