how good is this Kicker sound equipment
i was at a shop and listened to a set up tonight and it sounded great

what do you think of this set up and is there something better

1-10" subwoofer

or

here are the 2 12 "- i would put in a rear floor w carpet w 2 12" subs in the floor facing up w a speaker grill that would protect them and the amp in the compartment under it. the 2 12" subs were amazing

2- 05CVR124 KICKER CompVR 12 inch Dual 4 ohm SUBWOOFER
1- 06ZX7501 amp for sub and speakers with an adjustable gain
2- 05KS62 6" speakers for front
2- 05KS60 6" speakers for rear

i played my MP3 CD on it with a varied bunch of rock and classic rock,,,, some Emerson Lake and Palmer, Smash Mouth, Styx, Yes, Credence, LZ and the clarity was great and had great bass and all sounded awesome.

with 2 12's your gonna need alot of air space and I'm not sure there is enough under there.I'm just going with 2 10's I think..The one 12 I have now is pretty loud and I like bass..

But how good is Kicker audio equipment?
would one 10 where the sub is now work?

I've never heard anything bad about Kicker and wouldn't hesitate to buy thier stuff..As far as using the factory location.I guess its fine if you just want some bass in your car but if your building a show winner you have to have something more custom than that..The only problem with the sub floor is you lose your spare but if its that big of a deal you could always make a mount for your spare in the cargo area like they have in some suvs up against the side.

Kicker makes great audio equipment. You should check out their Solo-Baric subwoofers rather than compVRs.

This is a good deal on 2 10" Solo Baric Subs..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-KICKER-SOLOBARIC-S10L5-4-1800w-10-L5-CAR-SUBWOOFERS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38647QQitemZ 8050073379QQrdZ1

Kicker is who I'm going with. I was gonna go cvr, but now I'm just debating on either getting 1 10l7 or 2. I think 2 l7s in an HHR is going to be crazy loud...but whats wrong with that :)

I am very happy with the build of the HHR.Nothing rattles and because of the hatch its way loud.I think 2 10's is enough for anybody..

i worked for a car audio shop that sold kicker so i might be able to help out just a bit ;) 1st i would switch from cvr124's to cvr122's. this would give you a final load of 2 ohms which would give the 750 rms that amp is capable of doing. 2nd i would get ks62's to go all the way around. the ks62's can be mounted as comps or coax and they still use the crossovers. we did a 85 rx7 that ran 2 cvr122's and 2 set of ks62's, comps in front and coax in rear. we ran a kx1200.1, for the subs, and a kx350.4 for the kx62's. it was loud and it was clean. i would try to run 75 watts rms to the ks62 and use that zx7501 with the cvr122's. this will probally make the hair on you arm tingle. :beer:

Would it be better to run a single 10 off a zx750.1 or get a 2 channel amp pushing the same watts total (2ohm) and run 2 10's. I guess what I'm saying is it better to run 1 sub at full capacity or 2 at half.

depends on what 10 you are talking about. if you ar talking about a L7 i would run it at 750 at 2 ohms. let me know what equipment you are thinking of and i will give you the best answer i can. im running 2 12in Alpine type rs off of a mrd-m1005, this is going to give me 1000 watts at 2 ohms by one, which will work out to be 500 watts rms per sub which is what they like. mainly you want to run your subs in the rms range. if the sub is 500-750 rms i would run the sub anywhere in that range. as for a 2 channel amp, you can run mono amps to 2 subs, that is what im doing. i like class d mono amps because they are made for subs, however you can run a 2 channel class ab amp on subs and it will sound good also.

Here is what I was thinking:

Headunit: Kenwood DPX-301
Amp: Kicker ZX750.1 (750watts rms x 2ohm)
Sub(s): 2 Kicker S8L72 (450watts rms x2ohm)
or
Sub: Kicker S10L72 (600watts rms x2ohm)
or
Sub: Kicker S12L72 (750watts rms x2ohm)

If I went with a 12 the rms would match up perfectly. Would that be better or would 2 8's? Also how much better is an l7 over an l5. Is it worth the price difference.

And btw. If its ported does the recommended rms on each sub go down? I was looking at 2 10l7s in a sealed box is was 600 in a ported it was 450

JayDogg what are your plans for a sub enclosure?

You will be able to reproduce more lows with multiple 10's than a single 10 will provide.
It will fill the car more and sound "bigger" even at lower wattage. (*I tried several subs in my HHR before settling on my current setup) BTW - I still have a killer single Pioneer 700-watt 10 in a thinline box for sale (picture here (http://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=812)) that doesn't take up much room in back at all. If anyone is interested - just PM me.

I'm now running 2 Audiobahn 10's in a bandpass box (600-watt rating), with only 300-watts @ 2-ohms. It can get VERY loud when cranked, yet is barely audible outside the HHR, which I like. (picture here (http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/2178000-2178999/2178189_17_full.jpg)) I agree about the HHR bild quality - very impressive, no rattles at all.

I think I might stay with the 750.1 and just get 2 8 l7's. That'd be plenty loud. I know this is a lil off the thread, but I'm gonna install a new cd player so I don't have to mess with line splitters or whatever. If I get a double din does it need a dash kit at all?

I believe you do if you want it mounted securely

Hmm. Well how much are line splitters if I just kept the stock radio. I didn't get the premium system so I don't already have my wires ran.

Hmm. Well how much are line splitters if I just kept the stock radio. I didn't get the premium system so I don't already have my wires ran.

Are you talking about a line level converter? I just bought a Scosche one and it was around $20.

you mean to convert to RCAs?

Are you talking about a line level converter? I just bought a Scosche one and it was around $20.
dito

you mean to convert to RCAs?

Yeah. Do I only need one. If its just 20 bucks and isnt too hard. I'll just do that.

thats it and very easy to install.

Last night I got in the car and plugged in and turned on my mp3 player.I hadn't even turned on the car or even put the key in the ignition and I'm hearing music.Ofcourse I couldn't adjust the volume on the radio but I could on the mp3 player.Whats up with that?

Awesome. I'll grab that and a set of rca's. Has anyone ran the rca's yet. I'm wondering what the best path is to get them to the rear.

I haven't done it in my HHR seeing as how I have the premium system and can tap the wires from the back but under your rug or along the the side under the plastic panels are the usual locations.

That's where i did it in my old cavalier. Didn't know if there was a place already for it (like a track in the metal or something)since the premium system is an option.

So you can use the stock headunit? I am going to get the 6 Disc Cd one, so i can hook up two solarbarics in the back wit hthe stock head unit, i dont want to loose the ipod input?

So you can use the stock headunit? I am going to get the 6 Disc Cd one, so i can hook up two solarbarics in the back wit hthe stock head unit, i dont want to loose the ipod input?

Solarbarics? :confused: If you tap and add an amp powerful enough to drive them. I wouldn't try and run them on the stock amp, If you try driving 2 subs that powerful on the factory amp your just asking to damage the speakers.

I tapped into the converter right behind the radio and ran the RCAs down the driver side.The molding has lots of room underneath.

is a 17" rca cable long enough to get from the radio to the rear with a little to spare?

This right? http://i.walmart.com/i/p/00/03/39/91/98/0003399198486_215X215.jpg

yea 17' worked for me and yes thats it..

TY. I'll stop hijacking the thread now. :) Back on the subject of kicker. :) I still don't know if I should go with a single 12 or grab 2 8l7s or 2 10l7s. I think I'll go with the 750.1 anyway I go.

go with the 12 L7 but get it in a dual 4 ohm load so that you can get a 2 ohm final load. it will be plenty loud and will hit all the ranges of bass. im not a big fan of 10's, the just dont hit the low stuff like 12's or 15's. 15's dont hit the tight bass like 10 and 12's. 12's are the perfect, they hit all ranges.

as for the box, i had one custom made by an Alpine dealer here in cincy. with subs in i have a cubic foot a space per sub, it is pretty big.

rant time - i hate fedex with the greatest of passions right now. everybody else delivers at 330 - 4 pm but no they come at 2 pm and they wont leave stuff with the front office here, so i asked them for first am delivery since i have been waiting over a month for this amp. they said they would try, what kind of crap is that?

i ran all of my wires today, which is a breaze. you can run rcas and remote along drivers side, it isnt that hard at all. it tucks up under the plastic side moldings real nice and easy. once i finally get this amp, get it installed, and tuned, i will get pics.

for the ground how did you guys do that, i grounded mine to the negative battery terminal since it was right there. i would have used the ground where the battery is attached but i would have had to open that hole up alot more than i did. it is all secure where i put it and none of the terminals on the battery move, so i guess i will see tomorrow when this amp finally gets here.

i would also change out the head unit, im not the biggest fans of rca converters, if you dont have the premium head unit. for one the inside will sound 1000 times better than the stock headunit, and if you get a headunit that has 3 rca's, front, rear, and sub, some of them allow you to control the subs volume, as in you can turn them off or go full tilt with them. of course this is after you tuned the amp. for example alpine has a sub menu to where you can mute them or you can go 1-15 on them, sometime you dont feel like alot of bass or sometimes you want all the bass you can get. or heaven forbid you guys have cops like we do that will give out tickets if you are to loud. this feature has saved me plenty of times witht these tickets because i muted my subs and when they said i was to loud i said what do you mean and turned the stereo up with no sub, there was no bass, no ticket.

I second Jaydoog's comments on changing out the head. The stock HHR head does not have a very good frequency response. It is kind of "muted" in the highs and dull in the midrange. Installing a good aftermarket head will give you tighter bass, clearer mids, and more detailed highs - and it will really improve the sound!

Just my $0.02 :thumb:

LOL. You guys make me change my mind SOO MUCH. But i know its for the better so I'm okay with that. I'll go ahead and get the kenwood dpx-301 I wanted. It's only 200 so its not that bad. Its a double din so do i need to order a mount kit or what since its the same size?

Which Headunit do you guys Recommend? :confused: I gess i should not get the 6 Disc Changer then if i am jst going to rip it out, but still get the 7 speaker system. ;)

Which Headunit do you guys Recommend? :confused:

Whatever one you like and can afford. ;)

I really like this one

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/products/ListProduct.aspx?k1=2&k2=46&k3=173&pr=2378

http://kenwoodusa.ims.hr/grafika/products/car/velike/DPX301_K.jpg

this one is nice. Has 2 sets of rca outputs and an aux set of outputs for an ipod or whatnot. Supports XM and Sirius and even supports the new HDRadio, which is pretty much same as regular radio just digital, but not many stations (atleast where i live are broadcasting in it) Plus I like the look of it. Not to mention its double din so your not going to have to use the scosche adapter, this will actually fill all the space up.

A 10" can extend as low as a 15" will.

A 15" can be just as tight as a 10" can be.

It's all about alignment...box, power, tuning, etc.

;)

P.S.- may want to look into the CVX's...will work just as well as L7's and don't require as large of an enclosure as the L7's do ;)

Since we're on the subject of Kicker boxes etc. I have an old Kicker SS12 box (2-12's w/horns & tweets) sitting out in my garage.

Anybody know any info....is it worth anything?? :confused: (pretty old school by today's design) I did a web search but came up w/squat. :confused:

BTW, Adam... nice radio/head unit... should look nice in your HHR! :thumb:

Probably not worth more than 5 or 10 bucks. I'll be a good man and give you 20 for it.....you pay for shipping.lol

BTW, Adam... nice radio/head unit... should look nice in your HHR! :thumb:

Now if i can just figure out if I need to get a mounting kit for it or not.

Probably not worth more than 5 or 10 bucks. I'll be a good man and give you 20 for it.....you pay for shipping.lol
:D LOL... I had a feeling it wasn't worth much... it was a nice box "back in the day". (like 15yrs ago)

It would be nice just to find a use for it since it's just taking up space out in my garage. (heck, I keep forgetting it's out there) :eek:

LOL is right... the shipping would cost more than the box is worth. :roll: (one BIG heavy mutha) :mad:

Hey Jaydogg-could you post a few pictures of how you ran the wires? Did you need to make a hole coming out of the spare tire compartment?

I retire Friday then can devote some time into my baby (HHR, not my actual kids).

i will take some pics today once it is done. like most have said this is the easiest car i have worked on. once you get the rcas to the back there is a little tunnel under the cubby holes that they can pass threw. i was shocked when i found this out. if im not mistaken this tunnel is between both of them. i started feeling around on it until i found the hole, then when my fingers touched from both side i knew i had it.

A 10" can extend as low as a 15" will.

A 15" can be just as tight as a 10" can be.

It's all about alignment...box, power, tuning, etc.

;)

P.S.- may want to look into the CVX's...will work just as well as L7's and don't require as large of an enclosure as the L7's do ;)
i have three 10's in my cavi and the just dont get low enough for me, this box was built for these 3 10's by mtx and im running 900 watts rms to them, they rate at 750-1000 rms so im on the high side. as for 15's we built several box at the shop i used to work for and they just never seemed to hit the double bass drum like 12's or 10's. it might just be me but i know that 12's do everything i ask them to do.

i have three 10's in my cavi and the just dont get low enough for me, this box was built for these 3 10's by mtx and im running 900 watts rms to them, they rate at 750-1000 rms so im on the high side. as for 15's we built several box at the shop i used to work for and they just never seemed to hit the double bass drum like 12's or 10's. it might just be me but i know that 12's do everything i ask them to do.

http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/TechPapers/WooferSpeed.pdf

Awesome read

:)

i would also change out the head unit, im not the biggest fans of rca converters, if you dont have the premium head unit. for one the inside will sound 1000 times better than the stock headunit, and if you get a headunit that has 3 rca's, front, rear, and sub, some of them allow you to control the subs volume, as in you can turn them off or go full tilt with them. of course this is after you tuned the amp. for example alpine has a sub menu to where you can mute them or you can go 1-15 on them, sometime you dont feel like alot of bass or sometimes you want all the bass you can get. or heaven forbid you guys have cops like we do that will give out tickets if you are to loud. this feature has saved me plenty of times witht these tickets because i muted my subs and when they said i was to loud i said what do you mean and turned the stereo up with no sub, there was no bass, no ticket.


Agreed!!!

line out converters sound like ass

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep_pages.php?page_id=94

Not that one...

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep_pages.php?page_id=94

Not that one...

Well, does this product live up to its claim???

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep_pages.php?page_id=94

Not that one...

Well, does this product live up to its claim???

It sounds way too good to be true!

i got everything installed, but the 9855 has some many damn features that it is going to take me sometime to get it dialed in. once i do i will post a new thread with pics. i got it running right now so i can have some bass. i almost want to dump the 9855 and get a kenwood.

Well, does this product live up to its claim???

It sounds way too good to be true!

I saw them install one in a brand new Mercedes on Unique Whips.The car was going to be sold at the dealership so they left the head unit factory.Ofcourse I didn't hear it play or whatever but I doubt they would install junk in a brand new car to be sold..

Ok. I am going to buy the sub and I'll get the amp accordingly. Here is where I'm gonna get it. Looks like a good deal to me.


http://search.ubid.com/search/Search.aspx?s=1016&q=kicker

I think the ported s10l7 2ohm is the best one to get right? Only 209 bucks. Free shipping too. The sealed ones would be nice and take up less room, but they are all 4ohm. Any suggestions before I spend my money. :) I was thinking that or getting 2 or 3 8's and then getting a box afterwards. Well like I said any suggestions or configurations for the best sound would be helpful. Thanks.

Not a bad deal at all. Ubid is an authorize dealer as welll...so you get full Kicker warranty :).

We've got that same sub/box combo on demo in 12" version...and I've installed a few of them...loud as hell...sound pretty good as well.

That one you are looking at is dual 4 ohm BTW- you'll want something that does power at 2 ohms.

Not a bad deal at all. Ubid is an authorize dealer as welll...so you get full Kicker warranty :).

We've got that same sub/box combo on demo in 12" version...and I've installed a few of them...loud as hell...sound pretty good as well.

That one you are looking at is dual 4 ohm BTW- you'll want something that does power at 2 ohms.
if he is getting 1 10 then a dual 4 will be fine. he will get a 2 ohm final load, and i think he was looking at getting the kx750 so he will be fine.

http://static.ubid.com/mgen/pimg/capable.ms?args=%22209462.jpg%22

So If I get this ( s10l7 ) is the kx750.1 too much power for it and should i get a 2ohm or 4ohm since itll be the only sub. I don't understand this either.

• 525 Watts RMS / 1050 Watts Peak Power Handling (using a subsonic filter)
• 350 Watts RMS / 700 Watts Peak Power Handling (without a subsonic filter)

Subsonic filter is a variable high-pass filter that is in the subsonic range (usually ranges from 20-50hz). Basically, in a ported enclosure, the subwoofers will 'unload' 1 octave below tuning, causing almost a free-air environment, leaving the subwoofer with very little mechanical powerhandling. The SX750.1 should have a subsonic filter on it.

if you are getting on sub then you will want to get the dual 4's so you can get a 2 ohm final load. if you get 2 subs get dual 2's so you can get a 2 ohm final load.

Wow. This crap makes no sense to me. So If I only get one sub and I get a mono amp. I want to get a dual 4ohm sub instead of a 2ohm and that will give me a 2ohm final load?

ok with a dual 4 ohm sub you can get either a 2 ohm or 8 ohm final load. when you run both + together and both - together you will get a 2 ohm load. when you run the + of one voice coil to the - of the second voice coil and run your amp to the - of the first and + of the second this will give you the 8 ohm load. i know that you are getting pretty damn confused off of this so here is what you will do if you are running one sub off that kx750. get a dual 4 ohm. when you wire the sub up you are going to run both of the + together and both of the - together, then to your amp. this will yeild a 2ohm load. you want both of the + off of each voice coil to come together and run to the + on the amp and both - off of each voice coil to come together and run to the - on the amp.

you make a good teach :) The sub on ubid says its 4-Ohm Impedance. Is that the same as dual 4 ohm.

that must mean that it is a 4 ohm final load, it is a prefab sub box that is preloaded. so if you run that with the kx750.1 then you are only running 350 rms at 4 ohms.

So since its a prefab its already wired to a certain ohmage? (is that even the right word..ohmage) So in that case the 2ohm is what I need since it is already wired to what i need.

Ohmage...fromage! Just turn the thing UP! :lol:

lol. I normally wouldn't care. In my cavalier I have NO idea what the subs were (2 15's) and I had no idea what ohmage the amp was. I don't even know what brand the amp was. The 15's were legacy lol. But if just by getting it all at the right ohms will help out, I don't mind reading as much as I can and then trying to get someone knowledgable to make sure I'm right. I think a 10l7 will be plenty of bass for me. I'll be looking somewhere around 5-600 for the 10l7 and the box and the 750.1 I'm still not sure if it needs that much power, but a 300.1 is around 150 so I dont mind spending an extra 150 to get 450 more watts.

if you get a preloaded box you are going to want a 2ohm, if you get a box and load it yourself then get a dual 4ohm. you are better off buying a seperate box and loading it yourself.

I'll probably just go the easy way considering that the box is made by kicker and I'm sure they got it half way tuned right. Plus just the price of a 10l7 here is 175 the cheapest I could find it. So I'm only paying 25 bucks for the box.

I'll probably just go the easy way considering that the box is made by kicker and I'm sure they got it half way tuned right. Plus just the price of a 10l7 here is 175 the cheapest I could find it. So I'm only paying 25 bucks for the box.
if i where you and you are going to use the kx750.1 then you might want to drop down to the l5 if it is a 4 ohm loaded box, the rms load on that is 400 watts rms. it is nuts i know but if that is the amp you want to run you have to look at this stuff. you want to play within the rms range of these subs, you will thank me later.

they have a 2ohm loaded box.

then that is what i would get. you will want to get the 750 watts rms on the L7's they tend to be a bit power hungry, but you will enjoy it alot more with the right rms than to underpower it.

So the preloaded 2ohm s10l7 and the kx750.1 running at 750w rms @ohm will work? Is there anything better for 500 bucks before I spend my money lol

So the preloaded 2ohm s10l7 and the kx750.1 running at 750w rms @ohm will work? Is there anything better for 500 bucks before I spend my money lol
that should be more than enough. that will be plenty of bass.

Thats all i need to hear.