I am going to rotate my tires myself. My question is What do I do have to do make my tire pressure monitor read the right wheel?

Your monitors are not rotated so what is the issue?

I thought they were inside the wheel.

Your monitors are not rotated so what is the issue?

Huh?:confused:

The monitors are in the wheels. You can try and relearn them yourself per the instructions in the owners manual or you can take it to a dealership. I do them for free if the customer bought from our dealership, but I can't say what yours will do.

Your monitors are not rotated so what is the issue?

Wrong answer......they are "in" the wheels and ya gotta read the manual 'bout resettin' the dic......I read it but got crs for things that I don't need to remember..........

Reset info is on Page 5-65 of the 2008 manual...

Cajun

Thnx! I obviously had no clue. So if the monitors ARE rotated and the LF tire becomes the RR tire, how hard would it be to now figure out which tire/wheel matches the reading on the computer? LF now = RR ???? RF now = LR RR now = LF LR now = RF duh? Isn't it that simple or am I missing something else? Why go to the dealer for something so simple? Then when you get new tires, put the wheels back where they started. If you get confused, you check the readings, add air to one tire, recheck the readings and you will remember what went where.

I agree, my friend---what an assinine system to have to go through a bunch of hoops to reset the damn things! If the Govt. is going to make these required---than--DUH---the mfg. should be able in this day and age to make rotating seemless!!

I am going to make a diagram when I rotate and put in my glovebox so I know what the new position of the sensors will be after rotation. OR---drink a case of beer and follow the owners manual "simple" instructions"

Progress---I love it!!

The monitor system is not that accurate. Don't worry about where the monitors are. If the system ever indicates a problem anywhere, take the opportunity to check all your tires manually. Check them manually anyway once a year. BHO will be proud of you.

. Check them manually anyway once a year. BHO will be proud of you.:eek:

I guess you intended that statement to combine with the readings acquired from the TPI. But, as you say, if the TPMS is not that accurate, then tire pressure should be checked more frequently (although I check mine much more frequently and find the TPMS to be within 1 #, in 2 of my vehicles).

Your suggestion is exactly the reason the vehicle manufacturers were mandated, by the Federal Regulators, to install tire pressure indicators. Vehicle owners just do not check tire pressures enough.

AAA, vehicle manufacturers, tire manufacturers and the SAE all indicate checking tire pressure AT LEAST once a month (I actually do all my vehicles once a week).

But, do what ever makes you comfortable:D

Just got through my 4th rotation at 25,000 miles. Someone mentioned that the TPM are not accurate. I will have to disagree (at least on my 4). I have an expensive tire gauge that is known to be accurate, and the TPM readouts match it exactly. The instructions spell out the reprogramming after rotation, but the first time you do it, you may think it is not working: Bleed air for about 7 - 10 seconds, then WAIT about 20 seconds, you will here a beep, then go to the next tire and repeat, when you complete the last one, you will get beeps and lights VERY EASY.

I was reading through this thread, mine is an '06 so I don't have the tire pressure alert, but I noticed someone was going to "cross rotate" their tires.
Am I behind the times, aren't radial tires ONLY supposed to be "rotated" straight forward and straight back? :confused:

I was reading through this thread, mine is an '06 so I don't have the tire pressure alert, but I noticed someone was going to "cross rotate" their tires.
Am I behind the times, aren't radial tires ONLY supposed to be "rotated" straight forward and straight back? :confused:

Only if they are directional tires.

Since I have an '06 with no tire monitoring system and I do front to back same side. I did the rotation myself yesterday and managed to lose one lug nut. I was inside my garage, the tire fell over hitting the pile of nuts and one went to the fourth dimention for I could not find it anywhere in my garage. I ended up going to Auto Zone and bought a four pack of lug nuts.

My last car had the tire monitoring device and it was always coming on. The chrome plated wheels were delaminating and leaked. No chrome wheels in my future. I just carried an air pump in the car and refilled the tire that was leaking every other day. The monitoring system didn't identify which tire was low, so I had to check each one.

Ive rotated my tires at least 5 times and never had to mess with the TPMS system, and mine seems to be pretty accurate. Checked it with several different tire gauges.

I had the tires rotated a couple of weeks ago and the service guy said that they didn't need to be "relearned". If the pressure is really low you should be able to see it.:eek:

I was reading through this thread, mine is an '06 so I don't have the tire pressure alert, but I noticed someone was going to "cross rotate" their tires.
Am I behind the times, aren't radial tires ONLY supposed to be "rotated" straight forward and straight back? :confused:

Radial tires have not been built like that since the 70's and actually was NEVER written by the tire industry to not cross rotate.(thats on old wives tale) In fact tire manufacturers and automobile manufacturers recommend cross rotating. ( Cross rotate front to rear and rear straight forward on rear wheel drives, cross rears to front and fronts straight back on front wheel drives and cross all four on 4 wheel drive and all wheel drive). Cross rotating directional tires does not physically hurt the integrity of the tire a bit, but it does defeat the purpose of having a directional tire (IE: Improved wet weather traction, cooler running, maximized stability, and superior dry traction.

i got a question , maybe silly...my rear tires are showing very very little signs of wear..i have not rotated for 45000 miles..yea i'm slack....the fronts are wearing out...i wonder if it would just be cheaper to relace the front and never rotate???..i know that this is not recomended...but since noticing how there is very little wear on the rear , it really got me wondering. if rotating will benefit tire sales more than it will benefit consumers???...it may be hard to calculate the true cost...also i can't believe these oem firehawks still have tread on them at 72000.....why put them on the front if they are not even showing any wear:confused:???...i may test my theory on my next set..i allready kinda did , but not on purpose.:red:....if anyone has run staggered sets of tires , like on corvettes , they may be able to say if i am right , or totally insane...but also consider that alot of vehicles with staggered tires are mostly rear wheel drive and performace vehicles.

i got a question , maybe silly...my rear tires are showing very very little signs of wear..i have not rotated for 45000 miles..yea i'm slack....the fronts are wearing out...i wonder if it would just be cheaper to relace the front and never rotate???..i know that this is not recomended...but since noticing how there is very little wear on the rear , it really got me wondering. if rotating will benefit tire sales more than it will benefit consumers???...it may be hard to calculate the true cost...also i can't believe these oem firehawks still have tread on them at 72000.....why put them on the front if they are not even showing any wear:confused:???...i may test my theory on my next set..i allready kinda did , but not on purpose.:red:....if anyone has run staggered sets of tires , like on corvettes , they may be able to say if i am right , or totally insane...but also consider that alot of vehicles with staggered tires are mostly rear wheel drive and performace vehicles.


On a FWD, you could run the rear tires until the just dry rot away if you like. But not recommended. :eek:

In fact tire manufacturers and automobile manufacturers recommend cross rotating.

I beg to differ. I know for a fact I've had more than one car where the owners manual recommended tire rotation front to back, etc. No longer owning those cars, I can't quote page numbers or specifics but I do believe my '97 Firebird was one that stated as such.
And yes it was in the late '70's when I did sell tires, so I was wondering based on my experience then.:thumb:

As I recall, I've had "directional" wheels also might be where I remember some of this as an item. That was on a 4 wheel drive pick-up.

I know your drive wheels are the ones that wear the most, but if you will need to replace them after a few years regardless of wear eventually or they'll dry rot away.

I hate useless gizmos like the TPMS, and hate the government agency that impose these gizmos on us, even more...... :mad:

A driver that can't check the tire pressure on his car, once a month, shouldn't drive IMHO. PERIOD.

To hell with the TPMS system, me says. :mad:

Long live the simple tire pressure gauge. Don't need to read a 3 page instruction manual to use it :bow:

I beg to differ. I know for a fact I've had more than one car where the owners manual recommended tire rotation front to back, etc. No longer owning those cars, I can't quote page numbers or specifics but I do believe my '97 Firebird was one that stated as such.
And yes it was in the late '70's when I did sell tires, so I was wondering based on my experience then.:thumb:

As I recall, I've had "directional" wheels also might be where I remember some of this as an item. That was on a 4 wheel drive pick-up.

You are correct. Some vehicles come with directional wheels or tires which should only be rotated front to back. Some have different offsets Like the 80's Camaro and Firebird which could only be rotated side to side. Some Like the Corvette and Acura NSX Can never be rotated. Truth is; any different position you put your tires in helps to maintain an even wear pattern, but you also need to maintain proper air pressure and vehicle alignment otherwise rotating is useless.

You are correct. Some vehicles come with directional wheels or tires which should only be rotated front to back. Some have different offsets Like the 80's Camaro and Firebird which could only be rotated side to side. Some Like the Corvette and Acura NSX Can never be rotated. Truth is; any different position you put your tires in helps to maintain an even wear pattern, but you also need to maintain proper air pressure and vehicle alignment otherwise rotating is useless.

I learned way back when, actually worked at a "Service Station" ('70-'75) you don't see those any more, rotating was real important for tire life.
That was when getting a 30,000 mile (pro-rated) tire was a plus, now that's just basic stuff, I don't even think you see that low a warranty any more.;)

I learned way back when, actually worked at a "Service Station" ('70-'75) you don't see those any more, rotating was real important for tire life.
That was when getting a 30,000 mile (pro-rated) tire was a plus, now that's just basic stuff, I don't even think you see that low a warranty any more.;)

Tire mileage warranties are just selling features anyway designed to try and make a tire seem better than the one you can afford. Mileage warranties are "suggested" by the manufacturer, the dealer is who decides what mileage warranty to put on it. In the 19 years I was in the biz, I saw different tires come and go, then come back five years later with a higher mileage warranty and a different name but $30 more a tire and actually cost less than five years before. Now some tires do actually come from the manufacturer with a mileage warranty but the process to actually receive credit for said tire is truly an act of God. If the consumer actually was able to see the true cost of a tire you'd be imbarrassed. The mark-up on most tires you see"in-stock" is well over 50%. In most cases the only difference from the "good ,better ,and best" is what you pay for it, the manufacturing process or "green tire" is exactly the same. The tires you buy from Wal-Mart, Sams, Costco. Big-O, NTB, Discount Tire, ETC.. are all the same with different names. I've seen this first hand, I've been in the manufacturing facilities, and I've had a chance to test tires before they even make it to market.

Dealer is giving me a hard time over warranty visit to update RCDLR to update manual relearn procedure. I put my factory wheels back on and rotated. I trie the relearn procedure from the manual multiple times, draining & refilling the tire, only to have the system time out after 2 minutes. The dealer says they will reset with their tech tool, and charge me $51.50. I argue that this is a warranty issue, as the relaern feature is a user servicable item that is not functioning properly. They argue that they use a tech tool, and don't do the manual method. I argue about what about the next time I rotate tires.Using their reste tool doesn't solve my problem. I also gave them copies of the TSG from this site, with instructions, but they still want to treat me like and idiot and charge me $51.50. I am writting to GM to warn of either a warranty problem, or service issue that they are treating as a proprietory problem. If I change tires, I have to go back to them each time?

i got a question , maybe silly...my rear tires are showing very very little signs of wear..i have not rotated for 45000 miles..yea i'm slack....the fronts are wearing out...i wonder if it would just be cheaper to relace the front and never rotate???..i know that this is not recomended...but since noticing how there is very little wear on the rear , it really got me wondering. if rotating will benefit tire sales more than it will benefit consumers???...it may be hard to calculate the true cost...also i can't believe these oem firehawks still have tread on them at 72000.....why put them on the front if they are not even showing any wear:confused:???...i may test my theory on my next set..i allready kinda did , but not on purpose.:red:....if anyone has run staggered sets of tires , like on corvettes , they may be able to say if i am right , or totally insane...but also consider that alot of vehicles with staggered tires are mostly rear wheel drive and performace vehicles.

wish i could say that with mine..... rotated every 6,000 miles i have 42,000 miles on them and they show wear, should replace them going to try to make it through winter.

Radial tires are rotated front to rear on the same side. If you criss-cross 'em, you change the direction of rotation and you'll rip up the treat. Old bias ply tires you could do the X rotation; but NOT with radials.

Suggest you put the rears on the front and new ones on the rear.

Being a Nam Vet, and a HHR crazy, I like the quote and the reference to the "blank check".

This entire thread needs to be canned. There is less than one paragraph with factual and correct info. I guess this thread is good for a laugh though. Unbelievable!!!:lol::lol::lol:

P.S. This should do it---If you add nitrogen to the tires it will make the TPMS sensor read slightly higher. (Only when the car is up on the lift). And don't attempt this at home, it only works on TV. There is some strong evidence that suggestions that left side tires should be gauged separately from the right side with assigned air gauges so that low pressure contamination can't spread throughout.

I'm so glad my '06 doesn't have the tire monitoring system. Sounds like GM set up a system that would generate income for the dealers. I felt a $17 for just tire rotation was too much, but $51 to rotate tire pressure monitored tire is a real rip off.

I am going to rotate my tires myself. My question is What do I do have to do make my tire pressure monitor read the right wheel?

I don't have time to take the car to the dealer, nor the patience to sit and wait for it, so the TPMS "game" was an easy choice for me. It's really not hard to do at all.

I rotated my tires twice so far. Programming the TPMS is almost game like and fun to do. If you're good at programming a VCR or Tivo, this should be a breeze.

It's basically pushing a couple of buttons on the RKE, letting some air out of each tire, then waiting for the horn to beep and the lights to flash; almost like it's "talking" to you.

I think it's easier to let the air out than to put it in while the sensors are learning their respective positions. I overinflate the tires to about 38-40psi before I start so that I can "zero in" on 32psi on the way down, after each sensor learned its postion.


The TPMS matching process is outlined below:

1. Set the parking brake.

2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the
engine off.

3. Press and hold the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE)
transmitter’s LOCK and UNLOCK buttons, at the
same time, for about five seconds to start the TPMS
learn mode. The horn sounds twice indicating the
TPMS receiver is ready and in learn mode.

4. Start with the driver side front tire. The driver side
front turn signal also comes on to indicate that
corner’s sensor is ready to be learned.

5. Remove the valve cap from the tire’s valve stem.
Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or
decreasing the tire’s air pressure for about
eight seconds. The horn chirp, can take up to
30 seconds to sound. It chirps one time and then
all the turn signals flash one time to confirm the
sensor identification code has been matched to the
tire/wheel position.

6. The passenger side front turn signal comes on to
indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned.
Proceed to the passenger side front tire and
repeat the procedure in Step 5.


7. The passenger side rear turn signal comes on to
indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned.
Proceed to the passenger side rear tire and
repeat the procedure in Step 5.

8. The driver side rear turn signal comes on to
indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned.
Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat
the procedure in Step 5.

9. After hearing the single horn chirp for the driver
side rear tire, two additional horn chirps sound to
indicate the tire learning process is done. Turn the
ignition switch to LOCK/OFF.
If no tires are learned after entering the TPMS
learn mode, or if communication with the receiver
stops, or if the time limit has expired, turn the
ignition switch to LOCK/OFF and start over
beginning with Step 2.

10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure
level as indicated on the Tire and Loading
Information label.

11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.

Being a Nam Vet, and a HHR crazy, I like the quote and the reference to the "blank check".

Thanks!