im just wanting to keep the factory head unit for now but am wanting to run an amp and 2 12s...what do i need to get to run the rcas to the amp?

A high-to-low level converter. I suggest you use a PAC unit, but your amp probably has high-level inputs as well. You would t-tap the lines going to your door speakers, usually the rear set (most people fade to the rear in stock form). If you've got the factory amp, you t-tap off it's outputs.

There is no right way. I did hook up my RCA's to the wires that go to the factory sub. It worked for me untill I ripped all of it out. I don't recomend doing this. :nono:
Come on CH I know you have something to say about this.:2cents:

Tokyo nailed it, that's the best way. :beer: Even though the mono amp I am going to use to drive my sub has high level inputs I am still using a line level converter. To my knowledge using the high level inputs on the amp can lead to more clipping as opposed to using the RCAs. I could be wrong but that's what I gather. :confused:

I used the line level converter also..

well im wanting to keep the factory amp to power 7 speaker system from the factory.....im just wanting to add 2 12s....where do i get the converter?

A car audio shop. Even Walmart has them.

ok ill look into it

I used rca's and tapped into the speaker wires between the deck and stock amp. I have not had any problems.
I have the premium sound and didn't use the line converter because the wiring diagram says they are low level inputs.

I used rca's and tapped into the speaker wires between the deck and stock amp. I have not had any problems.
I have the premium sound and didn't use the line converter because the wiring diagram says they are low level inputs.

what did you do to "tap" into the speaker wires....how would i connect the RCA into the speaker wire?

I have not pulled out my amp yet, but either spealer wires or RCA jacks are coming from the factory head unit. If they are RCA, you can get a Y connector from stereo store or Radio Shack and feed it into the new amp. Then, hook up power, ground, and trigger lines, then the speaker wires to the sub box.

If there are only wires feeding the factory amp, then using the wiring diagram on this forum, find the proper ones for the sub and hook them up to a line level converter. This converts the regular wire into RCA wire that can be plugged into your amp. But there is a loss of quality with this method.
(Plus, I once used a converter that had a short in it and I blew up my radio.)

The factory system does not have RCAs. You have to tap the wires whatever way you feel comfortable with. I suggest a converter as well as many others will but if you feel comfortable connecting the the RCAs directly to the stereo wiring go for it, it's your ride. :eek:

so by using a line level converter coming from the wires off the amp that go to the sub it will disable the factory sub and send the signal through the converter allowing me to be able to hook up RCA cables to from the converter to the amp....Am i right about this? if so it sounds easy enough.....

also im just wanting to add the amp for the subs...i want to use the factory amp for the factory speakers.....so can someone tell me a good converter to use?

so by using a line level converter coming from the wires off the amp that go to the sub it will disable the factory sub and send the signal through the converter allowing me to be able to hook up RCA cables to from the converter to the amp....Am i right about this? if so it sounds easy enough.....

Yup. That's what I am doing today. It's nice out so I am finally installing my sub amp.

would this one work? ir is it to much? it looks like all the factory wires go to one side...then back through it to the amp..with the RCA pre outs in there allowing me to connect the RCAs from there to the amp....
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/slamed87lincoln/pacoem2.jpg

is that what i need or do i need one from this page http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm if so what one would work best for the HHR...i dont want to cut the factory wires if i dont have to...only the wires for the sub so that i can use my 12s and amp.....

i think im making this harder than it really is...... would this work for the converter?
http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SALOC-HIGH-TO-LOW-LEVEL-OUTPUT-CONVERTER-35X2_W0QQitemZ9720349324QQcategoryZ50552QQssPageNa meZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

looks like i just splice into the factory sub wires and run wires directly into this converter and then connect the RCAS......will this work for what im doing?

:confused: :confused:

You seem to think the amp only powers the sub... Not true. The amp is a 5 channel unit, powering the sub, and has outputs for your four door speakers. This is where the line converter comes into play, on those outputs. Any 2 channel converter will work, the PAC unit pictured above is a four channel unit. Just make sure that the unit you choose has adjustments for gain, to avoid clipping.

You seem to think the amp only powers the sub... Not true. The amp is a 5 channel unit, powering the sub, and has outputs for your four door speakers. This is where the line converter comes into play, on those outputs. Any 2 channel converter will work, the PAC unit pictured above is a four channel unit. Just make sure that the unit you choose has adjustments for gain, to avoid clipping.

no i know the amp powers everything....i just didnt want to mess with any of the factory wireing other than the wires that go to the amp.....So if i get a 2 channel one with gain control i just splice into say the 2 rear door speakers to get the power for the converter to convert to RCA ?

That's exactly right, Slammed. Good luck with your project, I wanna' see pics when you're done! :)

Yup. That's what I am doing today. It's nice out so I am finally installing my sub amp.


How'd it go Cap?

How'd it go Cap?

I ended up playing with my kids and doing yard work all day instead. I'm hoping to get it done tonight. I am having a hard time deciding where I want to mount the amp.

I ended up playing with my kids and doing yard work all day instead. I'm hoping to get it done tonight. I am having a hard time deciding where I want to mount the amp.

Will it fit underneath the rear adjustable shelf? I'm planning on putting one there but I'm not sure if the amp I want will fit...

Ng

Will it fit underneath the rear adjustable shelf? I'm planning on putting one there but I'm not sure if the amp I want will fit...

Ng

It will fit there but I wanted to mount it in a cleaner looking spot. I'm thinking maybe there is enough room on the opposite side of the factory amp and subwoofer but I have yet to pull that side off. My only problem with putting it under the opposite side is tuning the amp is going to be a bi*ch after I close that side up and I don't want to tune it at like 10:00 or 11:00 tonight when I finish up. I don't think my neighbors would be happy. Maybe I'll install it but not fully put my HHR back together untill after I get it tuned. I'm thinking a little too far ahead untill I actually figure out how much room is under there anyways. If that doesn't work I'll probably fall back on the storage area under the shelf.

It will fit there but I wanted to mount it in a cleaner looking spot. I'm thinking maybe there is enough room on the opposite side of the factory amp and subwoofer but I have yet to pull that side off. My only problem with putting it under the opposite side is tuning the amp is going to be a bi*ch after I close that side up and I don't want to tune it at like 10:00 or 11:00 tonight when I finish up. I don't think my neighbors would be happy. Maybe I'll intall it but not fully put my HHR back together untill after I get it tuned. I'm thinking a little too far ahead untill I actually figure out how much room is under there anyways. If that doesn't work I'll probably fall back on the storage area under the shelf.

When you pull that side off let us know how much room there is. I've been taking that area into consideration also. The only thing is the gas filler is on that side, so I'm assuming that there is less space. Take Pix!

Ng

When you pull that side off let us know how much room there is. I've been taking that area into consideration also. The only thing is the gas filler is on that side, so I'm assuming that there is less space. Take Pix!

Ng

Will do. ;) I'm devoted to getting it in tonight. :mad: I've been stalling long enough. :roll:

Here is where Jaydogg put his amp, I need to find out if I can fit the Infinity 6 channel here laying horizontally...I need to install it with some way of being able to quick disconnect in case I need to access the spare...

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/0/5/HHRStereo004.jpg

Ng

That's exactly right, Slammed. Good luck with your project, I wanna' see pics when you're done! :)

ok cool..ill take some as soon as i get it done...i just found out last night the battery was in the spare tire area lol....i like it better there...it will make my amp install very simple since i wont have to take aprt the dash or run the power and rcas through the panels....much easier job :smile:
Now i just have to see if i can find one of these converters here localy..we have no stereo shops...so i wonde if Radio Shack will have it:confused:

Here is where Jaydogg put his amp, I need to find out if I can fit the Infinity 6 channel here laying horizontally...I need to install it with some way of being able to quick disconnect in case I need to access the spare...

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/0/5/HHRStereo004.jpg

Ng
i can still get to the spare without even moving the amp. it is all about how much wire you got in there and how nice you can keep it.

CH-I have done this on other cars, or I would not suggest it. And since it is a removable panal, it can always be replaced if it gets screwed up. Soooo-what about cutting an access door in the panal. You could use a piano hinge with small pop rivits, then attach a piece of plastic on the opposite side as a stop, and use a strip of velcro on the stop and the door to hold it in place. You could even replace the plastic and make a plexiglass door to show off your amp, and light it up to be even fancier.

i can still get to the spare without even moving the amp. it is all about how much wire you got in there and how nice you can keep it.

The way I'm planning on installing my amp (horizontally) will cover up that black round screw thingy. I need to figure out a way to be able to disconnect the amp and access the spare with least amount of headache...

Ng

The way I'm planning on installing my amp (horizontally) will cover up that black round screw thingy. I need to figure out a way to be able to disconnect the amp and access the spare with least amount of headache...

Ng
the way for you do do it then is build an amp rack, use 1/2 inch mdf and cover it in carpet. cut it to where it fits down in there and you could lift it up and out of the way when you need to get to the spare.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/0/5/HHRStereo005MDF.JPG

this is a very bad example of what i would do. take cardboard and you can trace out the exact size for that. trace it out, cut it out, carpet it, and bam, amp rack done.

Hmmmm...Very interesting....I'll be keeping that in mind. I should be buying my amp in the next couple of weeks. I've already started to buy my speakers...

Ng

Jaydogg another option I have is running two smaller amps, similar to your setup, one 4 channel and one two (bridged) for the sub. I need to head to Best Buy with some measuring tape to see what works best.

Later
Ng

The way I'm planning on installing my amp (horizontally) will cover up that black round screw thingy. I need to figure out a way to be able to disconnect the amp and access the spare with least amount of headache...

Ng

I mounted my amp in the tray above the spare. It has a QD inline allowing me to unplug it without leaving "hot" wires all over. The whole tray then comes out to acess the spare, etc. There is even a nice "notch" in the lower compartment to run the amp cabling up from the battery.

I mounted my amp in the tray above the spare. It has a QD inline allowing me to unplug it without leaving "hot" wires all over. The whole tray then comes out to acess the spare, etc. There is even a nice "notch" in the lower compartment to run the amp cabling up from the battery.

What does that inline QD consist of?

Ng

QD = Quick Disconnect

Remember your R/C car days? Think Tamiya style battery plug, just bigger :)

QD = Quick Disconnect

Remember your R/C car days? Think Tamiya style battery plug, just bigger :)

What I really meant was:

What brand, where did you buy it, how much does it cost, picture, etc....:D

Ng