How to backlight your window buttons...

Okay, this isn't exactly going to be a step-by-step, but here's how you can do this yourself... Keep in mind, I knew nearly nothing about auto electrical before I started this and because of this, I avoided splicing into the car's wiring.

1. I bought this. (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HBjBi1jXyLM/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?search=turquoise&i=546EL5TQ) Maybe you know where to find a better price, but I don't. Locally, all could find was red and indigo blue, but I was trying to match the factory dash. 5 feet is way more than enough for this project.

2. I removed the window switch bezel. To do this, pull out the black insert. Put a flat head screwdriver into each of the two small slots. Gently, but firmly pry up the bezel. You might have better luck using one screw driver and pulling on the bezel with your other hand. You might have to gently pry up each corner...It's hardest to get out the first time

3. Get the EL wire- mine came with glue, but it was dried up, so I used a hot glue gun instead. I suspect the glue that came with it was something like super glue-- In my opinion, the hot glue is easier to work with. If you've never used one, you might want to practice first! :)

4. On the back of the window control bezel, carefully glue the wire around the button openings. Start at the begining of the EL wire (the side the transformer connects to), but leave several inches loose before you start glueing so it's easier to hook up the wiring and so you can put the window control bezel back properly. Check for clearance before glueing-- make sure nothing is going to be in the way when you put the panel back.

I recommend you route the wire so it enters and exits on the bottom of the bezel-- not the top. That's why mine is a mess of glue (see picture)-- for reasons unknown to me (I really didn't think it through when I started the wire at the *top* of the panel... :confused: ), I started at the top and the panel wouldn't fit properly, so I had to re-route the wire (see the weird loop and the glue everywhere? oops).

I left the extra wire attached... just tucked it back inside when I replaced the bezel.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/3/9/4/windowbuttons.jpg

The back of the bezel, with the light on:
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/3/9/4/elwireon-back.jpg

Plug in the transformer etc...

I got power from an unused fuse slot in the passenger side fuse box. I used fuse #21-- it's rated for 20 amps, which is insane for how little power the light requires (though I'm running other stuff as well), but I went with this, at least temporarily because
It's switched power... don't want the light on when I'm not in the car
It was one of the very few fuse slots that I could access with a Littel Fuse Add-A-Circuit**which I don't recommend for this car -- with the tight layout in the fusebox, the right angle of the Add-A-Circuit's plug plus the wire coming out the side, there's not enough clearance to plug it into most of the unused (or used, for that matter) fuse slots. I have something similar on the way that should provide more flexibility, but until then, this is working... and I didn't have to splice into the factory wiring.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/3/9/4/fusebox.jpg

If you know what or where you want to tap electric from, go ahead.

If you have no idea and you're reading this as a step-by-step...

Pick up an Add-A-Circuit from Pep Boys or Auto Zone. You'll need the mini version.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/3/9/4/fusebox-test.png

Plug into #21, connect your power and your ground.... and turn on your car. Your light should work.

Carefully replace the bezel. You have backlit window buttons. Enjoy.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/3/9/4/backlitwindowbuttons.jpg

I have very little time right now, so my responses might be delayed. Hope this helps someone.

Looks good. I like the back lite. should be able to cover the led on the headliner after this.. :thumb:

They got purple! They got purple.....

I'm gonna get me some... Oh wait the R's lights are green!

Darn it. But maybe if I replace all of the lights...

But, seriouslly, THX for the how to. That is what we need here!!!!!

Good job!!! Looks tremoundoussss!!! Really!

They got purple! They got purple.....

I'm gonna get me some... Oh wait the R's lights are green!

Darn it. But maybe if I replace all of the lights...

But, seriouslly, THX for the how to. That is what we need here!!!!!

Good job!!! Looks tremoundoussss!!! Really!

Thanks - I like it! :D

I saw that they have purple too... I thought about it... thought about it. Cute idea, but I know myself too well... It'd match the outside of the car okay, but it'd annoy me terribly that it was a different color than the rest of my dash.

Sooner or later, I'd be forced to pull out the purple and install the Turquoise.

I don't even want to think about the work involved changing out all the lights. :eek:

I try to do mods that don't look too far from factory... subtle design, whenever possible. Y'know... the type of mod that makes your car stand out from the crowd, but other than owners and the non-owner hhr-obsessed fans, no one would be able to point out exactly what I'd done.

:thumb: Excellent write-up, NUT! That's the kind of stuff we're looking for...

Nice wright up. Which color did yo use?
Thanks.:thumb:

Hey another great idea, looks fantastic, will do this while I have the dash out doing my paint work...Thanks for the "how to"

Nice wright up. Which color did yo use?
Thanks.:thumb:

I used Turquoise to match the other dash lights.

Hey all...

Just an update-- I haven't changed anything yet, but I got my order...

I ordered a 12-pack of the miniblade version from these guys:

http://www.accessafuse.com

It's more or less similar to the Add-A-Circuit solution, but these will actually fit anywhere in the HHR's fuse box-- unlike the other.... and they are a lot cheaper-- I paid $15.95 for a dozen... $18.90 including shipping.

I don't have time to play with them right now, but they look fine and there's no reason to believe they won't work as advertised.

The ordering process was a little unusual-- their ordering page lets you place an order for however many, but when I first went to place my order I noticed there was nowhere to specify what kind I needed (the web site says 'ATC, ATO and Mini Fuses can be manufactured with the extended terminal,' so I knew the product was available). :confused: :confused: :confused: I emailed them and asked about it... they said:

I have the mini version <blah blah> ...comes in 10, 15 and 20 amp sizes. You can place an order <blah blah>--Just email me with what you actually require. When I receive confirmation from Verisign, I will know what to send you.

Sooo... you might want to send them an email before you place the order.

I received my order 3 days after it was placed... as requested, 4 each of 10, 15, and 20 amp sizes.:thumb:

YMMV.

Anyway, there you go. Maybe they'll update their web site one of these days so you can order what you want without sending separate emails.

The ceiling panal with the spotlight just pulls down. Then, you can pull the wires/bulb so it doesn't shine down, or you could cut one of the wires.

I plan on installing a small socket up there, tapped into the wires for the sunroof. Then, I can modify my radar detector wire and plug it in there, instead of into the cigarette lighter.

I put these in this weekend

im not too electrically inclined to do something like this(ive only installed car stereos), but instead of having to do all the wires and getin into the fusebox, and etc, cant you just tap into the power line that powers the window switches? im sure thats switched on power as well..

well i dont know, thanks tho, i may end up having someone do the install for me

actually they come w/ a cigarette lighter plug. if you dont want to wire them you can just run the plug to the back outlet. That is what I have done until I can remember what I have done w/ my hot glue gun to mount them right.

Just a thought but couldn't you do pretty much the same thing using a 4" or 6" neon tube? :confused: It would save on some of the work. :smile:

Just a though but couldn't you do pretty much the same thing using a 4" or 6" neon tube? :confused: It would save on some of the work. :smile:

Couldn't you have made this suggestion BEFORE I bought the neon wire!!:(

I would think that would be easier. The tube should give off plenty of light. Do they come in the right color though, Turquoise ?

EL wire is cool anyways. You can find lots of uses for it. Right now I have a 15' length and two 5' lengths that I'm waiting for the right time to install. I'm not backlighting my buttons with them because I like the roof LED even thought I'm thinking of changing it to a blue one. I have other plans for the EL wire. :cool: Maybe that's what I should do today. :confused:

if you change out the roof led post where to get the bulb.

I just picked up a 4 inch flouresant tube (red to match my car) and was going to mount it above the switches but am now wondering if it would shine through if I mounted it underneath? Any guesses before I try it?

I think it would work better from the bottom. You could try it both ways to see what looks better and then tell us the results.

I just have to wait until dark:smile:

Well how'd it turn out LEE??? PIC'S?

Looks great, write up well done, and thanks for sharing. Not really my thing, but that may change now!

No good. No light came through-I guess I couldnt get the light tube close enough to the controls. Next idea-either mount the light above the switches and make a plastic cover to aim the light down, or find one or two lights to mount above the window controls that will illuminate them (perhaps license plate lights for a motorcycle). There is no rush, so I will just keep my eyes open when I shop.

I removed the LED light and installed a map light off of an old Capri. It is very functional. http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/3/2/4/domelight1DSCN3874.jpg

if you change out the roof led post where to get the bulb.

It uses a standard 5mm LED. I replaced mine today with a high intensity blue LED. All you have to do is pull down on the little cover in the roof and it will pop off. You will see the little LED holder. Pop it out and the factory white LED is in a little socket. Just pull the factory LED out of the socket, trim the new LEDs leads to match the length of the factory LED, and plug your new LED in the socket. It takes about two minutes. :thumb: I love easy mods! :one: Now my interior shines blue. :D Next up might be replacing the incandescent bulbs in the gauge clusted with blue LEDs. ;)

It uses a standard 5mm LED. I replaced mine today with a high intensity blue LED. All you have to do is pull down on the little cover in the roof and it will pop off. You will see the little LED holder. Pop it out and the factory white LED is in a little socket. Just pull the factory LED out of the socket, trim the new LEDs leads to match the length of the factory LED, and plug your new LED in the socket. It takes about two minutes. :thumb: I love easy mods! :one: Now my interior shines blue. :D Next up might be replacing the incandescent bulbs in the gauge clusted with blue LEDs. ;)

radio shack?

radio shack?

Yup.

Hey CH, you wouldn't happen to have a part number, wouldja? Sometimes asking for stuff at RS only returns a blank stare.

Hey CH, you wouldn't happen to have a part number, wouldja? Sometimes asking for stuff at RS only returns a blank stare.

This is the one I used. :smile: (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102851&cp=&origkw=led+blue&kw=led+blue&parentPage=search)

276-316. Thanks again, CH. I will be your "LED brother"!

The more the merrier. :lol: Everone should swap their LEDs. ;) They are only a couple of bucks plus it only takes a couple of minutes and a pair of wire cutters. :thumb:

Just a quick note for anyone else wanting to do this mod: An LED is polarity sensitive. The flat side of the LED or (if it has a) shorter lead it goes to (-). OR, if you can see inside the LED, the larger of the two electrodes goes to (-).

http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2265171w345.jpg

In the above pic, the top electrode is (+), and the bottom is (-).


It won't light up if you connect it backwards, and you can actually pop an LED sometimes when it is connected backwards.

Yeah, I should have mentioned that. :red:

I wish I had known about the color option of the LED's. Then, maybe I would not have mounted my map light over the hole. At least I could aim it down to see the power window buttons.

I did install a 12 volt socket which makes for a neater power line for my radar detector.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/3/2/4/maplightDSCN4406.jpg

Thats really cool. Thanks for the instuctions.

this wouldn't be a backlit for the window buttons but would be a good idea for $14.97 (+ S & H) click the link below:

http://www.urban-neon-car-lights.com/Street-Glow-4-Pack-LED-Singles-p-287.html


:one: :thumb: :bow:

I have also added the El light string to my window switches, but I have found what I believe to be a better way to power them.

In the pictures of the interior fuse block elsewhere in this thread you will find the red wire connector that goes to the fuse block. Look for the dark gray/brownish wire just under and to the left of the mounting screw. This wire only goes "hot" when the headlights come on. That will give you a switched 12 volt feed whenever the driving/headlights come on. whether you turn the lights on or the headlights are set on auto. No worries about turning the lights on or forgetting to turn them off.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/5/8/8/5/lightwire.JPG

Has anyone removed the power window switch cover on a 2008...?

I cannot locate the "slots" mentioned in the 1st post of this thread...

Thanks,

Cajun

Has anyone removed the power window switch cover on a 2008...?

I cannot locate the "slots" mentioned in the 1st post of this thread...

Thanks,Cajun

When you remove the black rubber liner you will see two slots on the back of the housing facing the shifter. Insert the screwdriver blade in the slot and push slightly back while lifting up on the cover through the large hole in the bottom, you only lift it 1/8 of an inch or so just to clear the tabs. Once the two tabs are released then you can pull the unit up and out. The first post shows the pic of the fasteners that hold it in place so you can tell from that how is is held.

06-08 should be the same. Mine is an 08 and have removed it just as the first post said to do it

Okay...I guess I did not bend my old butt low enought to see the slots..

Thanks,

Cajun

My first mod will be the radar detector plug and the bulb, Saturday

When you remove the black rubber liner you will see two slots on the back of the housing facing the shifter. Insert the screwdriver blade in the slot and push slightly back while lifting up on the cover through the large hole in the bottom, you only lift it 1/8 of an inch or so just to clear the tabs. Once the two tabs are released then you can pull the unit up and out. The first post shows the pic of the fasteners that hold it in place so you can tell from that how is is held.

06-08 should be the same. Mine is an 08 and have removed it just as the first post said to do it
The slots are actually facing the dash. But yes, this should come out real easy.

I finally got around to doing this. Can't wait to see it at night. Pretty easy, it took more time to run/glue the wire on the housing than anything else. 30-40 minutes total.

I did do a couple things differently though.

Instead of beginning to glue near the transformer, I did the opposite. I made all of the connections first. This way I was able to make sure the wire worked and it made it easier to run the wire through the console. The connection was pretty straight forward, only issue I had was I put the fuse in the wrong slot on the add-a-fuse. Once I switched it, the wire lit right up!

To make sure I had plenty of slack in the wire, I started gluing/running the wire from the far end away for the transformer. Krazy Glue worked well, we'll see how long it holds.

I'm loving this mod!! It was soooo nice tonight glancing over and seeing those nice green circles of light around my light switches.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/1/7/5/1/IMG_0739.JPG

Found this thread during a search, excellent idea and writeup, just completed mine. Was able to cut and cap the EL wire when finished gluing in place. Used 1.3mm EL wire, made electrical connections to ground and the gray wire at rear of A/C controls. Fantastic improvement.
Thank You, HHR Nut :thumb:

How to backlight your window buttons...

I just did this same mod to my switches, turned out perfect, I used a green light that couldnt match the rest of the dash lights any better. I went one step further though, I drilled a couple small holes on the top side of the pocket right below the switches and ran a strip of the light across so now my pocket is illuminated too. Ill try to get some pics soon.

dudeasif-

That sounds cool..

Here is a photo and a short video of my version of this mod....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOxpC_0Rmtk






http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/2/8/5/3/8/photo_177007.JPG

This is one of my favorite mods, three years+ and still working great!