Well, finally for you.....A quick little sneak peak of the very shortly forthcoming Time Attack rear antiroll bars!!!!!!!

Proudly crafted in North America from military specification chromoly steel tube. These bars are refinements of the bar used on the actual Time Attack Cobalt. Available in two flavors 1.0/Street and 1.25/Hardore (as always, my words, OTTPerformance may or may not use such colorful descriptions, LOL)

The 1.0 bar is designed to be an excellent upgrade to any Delta body and provide the perfect level of performance for street based cars and the large majority of drivers. Finding the sweet spot between the Progress 7/8" and TTR 1" bars, the Time Attack 1.0 is approx 20% stiffer than the Progress, and approx 30% less stiff than the TTR, and is lighter than both!


The 1.25 bar is designed for those who need the ultimate rear bar. Its exactly the same spec as the Time Attack Cobalt's rear bar! Great for the truly fast road racers, quick auto-xers and sticky street tired hooligans among us. This bar is stiffer than the Eibach and TTR rear bars, and still manages to come in around the same weight(exact specs soon......)

Shipped to you powder coated and with necessary hardware for install these should prove to be the finest Delta antiroll bars in the universe!

Some true teaser pics:

http://cobaltss.net/gallery/files/1/9/1/0/sway1.jpghttp://cobaltss.net/gallery/files/1/9/1/0/sway3.jpghttp://cobaltss.net/gallery/files/1/9/1/0/sway2.jpg








































(YES.....mine are purple, STFU, youre just jealous you cant pull off purple.)

Who actually makes these, OTTP? Any word on approximate price?

just wondering, does anyone actually see a difference with rear sway bars on an hhr? mine doesn't sway at all but its because its baggged and i ride it pretty low.

just wondering, does anyone actually see a difference with rear sway bars on an hhr? mine doesn't sway at all but its because its baggged and i ride it pretty low.
BIG difference. Cornering is amazing at speed.

They are designed/made by Powell Motorsport, sold through OTTPerformance.

BIG difference. Cornering is amazing at speed.

X2

I have a road near me that is about 3/4 of a mile long but has 5 or 6 90 degree curves on it. I used to have to slow down a bit, or cut the edges of them a lot. Plus the body roll was really high. Just drove that way yesterday and i can take the curves really fast now and not slow down. It's also hills, so i like to get optimal mpg on it, otherwise it's a killer.

I can take them even faster if my wife isn't with me, she kind of exaggerates it a bit and acts like i am throwing her all over the car. would help if the hhr had an OH SH*T bar

Price?

Price and install pics.

I think that a front bar upgrade will be needed if the 1.25 rear bar is used.... the TTR 1" is just about the right match for the stock unit. But it needs more......Da-amm when will the shock companies get on board?!!

Eibach is working on some

$204 in your choice of color for the Street bar, and $224 in your choice of color for the Hardcore.

I am not sure that I would run the Hardcore bar on a daily driven HHR, and putting on a bigger front bar is a bad idea imo as well, youll have less body roll, but youll lose a noticeable amount of front grip, ie....youll just push even more, and terrorize your inside tire on turns. :)

On a lite car I would agree..but these beasts have some weight behind them. And if that were the case then what about all the other cars out there, they don't push. Remember, with mods like these there are other things that may have to be done to compliment the total package..like a good shock. The more even you can keep the weight on all "4" tires the more traction you will have all around..inside traction is just as important as outside. And since they are puller instaed of pusher drive, you'd be hard pressd to understeer one without pushing it way beyond its limits ( and yours).

On a lite car I would agree..but these beasts have some weight behind them. And if that were the case then what about all the other cars out there, they don't push. Remember, with mods like these there are other things that may have to be done to compliment the total package..like a good shock. The more even you can keep the weight on all "4" tires the more traction you will have all around..inside traction is just as important as outside. And since they are puller instaed of pusher drive, you'd be hard pressd to understeer one without pushing it way beyond its limits ( and yours).

The HHR weighs only about 300lbs more than a Cobalt, and its all up high.
What all other cars that dont push? GM doesnt make a single car that oversteers off the showroom floor, youd be hard pressed to finda ANY production American car that didnt have noticeable understeer stock. its just the way they are built, its lawsuit friendly and intuitive to drive for beginners.

The entire purpose of an antiroll bar is to reduce traction, thats just how they work, YES because of the design of the vehicles you will often get an improvement in handling but it doesnt change the fact that ARBs reduce traction on the wheels they act on.

Being front wheel drive making it hard to understeer? Not a chance, a tallish, fwd vehicle with a stiff front antiroll bar is the very definition of understeer.

Cobalt guys are already removing the Eibach front bar because its too stiff and is making even the SS/Turbos push(understeer) even with the Eibach rear bar installed.

HHR already has a bigger front sway bar than the Cobalt SS, theres no need to go bigger other than bragging rights imo.

I would agree if the bars were the only thing thats been changed..in most cases a large bar setup requires changes in other areas to get the total package in balance and this could include add/removing/ relocating weight.And does included springs and shocks. Once you start putting on parts the exceed the "factory" pieces all kinds of strange things can happen.As far as understeer on factory setups yes,common knowledge. But a front drive car is more stable in this area because you don't have the rear that wants to go straight pushing you thru a corner.FWD can actually pull you out of this condition if you know what you are doing.Another required change would be tires..when I think of bar changes I always take all the other parts into consideration.You can't mod one end of the vehicle without finding out you weakened the other,,its an endless battle and continous discovery of where the weak links are.( Unless of course you know some people who already did all this and worked all the kinks out....)Some vehicles take well to changes, some don't... top heavy cars that tend to lean more can take advantage of that with a stiffer bar unlike a lower slung car thats already bordering on go kart status.We need side by side comparrisons to know for sure what anything will do reguardless of how it looks on paper.

Well, Why don't you invite them to be a vendor here?

The entire purpose of an antiroll bar is to reduce traction

Dang....what school did you go to? It's anti roll not anti traction. Maybe it's me but I can't even begin to understand your line of thought on this.
By chance, maybe there is a misunderstanding you have on what and how the bar works. Woody hits it kinda on the head, change that....., the car will do this....plain and simple. It's all a package that needs to work together, evenly and pecisely to get the results needed.

It does reduce traction to a specific wheel. But it's job is to distribute traction. As a whole traction of the car cannot be reduced just moved around.