Has anyone had any experience with the Optima High Performance module. It's only $20 on ebay. Too good to be true??

Ebay Link (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-Chevrolet-HHR-Performance-Module-25HP-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33597QQitemZ8011992 972QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)

I have never heard of it but after reading some of the feedback and looking it over I can tell you that is is not a computer chip. If it were a chip you would not have to cut any wires. With aftermarket performance chips you just clean the contacts on you computer and plug them in. I had to run a wire on my last car because I used a flip chip (3 positions 1-factory,2-high performace,3-custom) but I didn't cut anything. I have installed and help install several chips and have never seen one that you have to cut into anything. Whatever they are selling might work but I doubt it. Buyer beware!

I haven't used that brand of performance module butb I did use another that I think is the same type. If it hooks into the air temp sensor it's the same and they do work. I had one on my frontier, It was a good product.

for 20 bucks, it is too good to be true! if you buy in to that nonsense, i have some ocean front property in arizona to sell you :D

25HP would make a nice difference!

its crap. read one of the comments. they guy says its nothing but a resistor.

There is noooo way that thing will give you 25HP for only $20......don't buy it

Sounds like the old air injection and water injection devices that were sold to improve gase mileage. Sounded good technologically, but really didn't work.

Do you mean like the water injection systems for a turbo setup? :confused: They are to cut down on detonation not increase horsepower or gas milage. :confused:

If it sounds too good to be true it probably isn't. Manufacturers put a lot of time and effort to put out their vehicles in as good a as mileage and operating condition. Don't you think that if there was a way to cheaply increase mileage or power, the manufacturer would do it?To pass the EPA testing the motor has to be in top tune, or it won't pass.

I don't quite know about that. I did allot to my Mustang and I was still able to pass emissions testing. Most vehicles aren't tuned for performance just because most drivers don't care about it. The average person just wants to get from point a to point b with good gas milage. I'm sure Chevy could have got better performance out of our engine but they figured if you cared about performance you would have bought a Vette. There is plenty of horsepower to be squeezed out of the HHR.

Very true CH. Actually that module might squeeze a few more ponies than you guys think; what it contains is a 2500uf resistor which installs between the computer and the ECU on the throttle body.

Typically, all factory engines (excepy perhaps 'Vette's!), are tuned extremely "lean" for peak efficiency and fuel economy. The resistor tells the computer that the mixture is 25% leaner - causing it to increase fuel in the mix. With today's computer controlled ignition systems everything is compensated for (timing, etc.), and the result is more power. Generally the mpg decrease after these types of mods is only 1-2%.

I bought one of the modules when they first hit the market and it is sitting on the workbench right now. We've tested it (electronically), and are waiting to install it later. Should work - unfortunately, we are prototyping several aftermarket parts (intakes & exhausts), for different manufactuers, and each one wants a "stock" vehicle.

After we get these performance items fabbed and finalized, we can then explore whether the "little black box" improves things or not....(I'm in no rush!). I'll post after we get to that point and have some concrete results.

Not water injection for turbos. There was an apparatus that you installed in your fuel line that injected a fine mist of water that allegedly mixed with your gasoline as it entered the carb and caused you to use less gas and to make your vehicle run smoother. One of the 'proofs' cited in their advertising was how your car started easier and ran smoother on rainy days because of more ambient water in the air. Their device was supposed to duplicate this condition.

I guess every little bit helps. :thumb: Thanks for the explanation SoCal because I couldn't figure out how it worked. :beer:

Not water injection for turbos. There was an apparatus that you installed in your fuel line that injected a fine mist of water that allegedly mixed with your gasoline as it entered the carb and caused you to use less gas and to make your vehicle run smoother. One of the 'proofs' cited in their advertising was how your car started easier and ran smoother on rainy days because of more ambient water in the air. Their device was supposed to duplicate this condition.

Huh, I never heard of them. Thanks for the explanation. :beer:

I just checked out e bay could it be rerally true?? The module for 20$??

Manufacturers put a lot of time and effort to put out their vehicles in as good a as mileage and operating condition. Don't you think that if there was a way to cheaply increase mileage or power, the manufacturer would do it?

Manufacturers also spend a lot of time and effort de-tuning engines. Have you ever seen the air intake system on a late model Suburban or full-size pickup? The air box is fed through a 2"x4" hole into the space between the engine compartment and the RF fender. That air space is fed fresh air through the crack 3/16"x3" crack between the right blinker and the fender. After it enters the airbox, it goes through a restrictive screen in the MAF sensor (pressure drop that chokes the engine) and then winds its way through this maze of plastic to the intake manifold (another useless pressure drop).

I ordered a $40 universal fit K&N filter and piped fresh air to the filter under the hood from the lower air dam by the fog lights. Left the MAF sensor screen and the plastic maze for now.

Huge MPG increase. Same driving conditons before and after - highway only. MPG went from 16.1 to 18.4+ on a repeatable basis. :eek: It all still passes emissions just fine.

This is just one example of how they "de-tune" engines. This one was done to make the engine quieter. If you limit and hide where and how the engine can breath, it is much quieter. I for one, like to hear and let my engine take in all it can... :thumb:

Sorry. Just another one of my long 2 cents... :blah:

Yup. When I put the CAI on my Mustang I had to removed the factory air intake tubing and there was a air silencer on the factory system where the air came in (in the top front of the passenger side fender). Also the factory had rippled tubing and the CAI had straight tubing. I removed the screen from the MAF. The K&N air filter was relocated to the bottom of the passenger side fender. It woke the engine up and made a cool air sucking noise.

All the manufacturers do similar things. The general public wants a calm and quiet car with good gas mileage. Not an air sucking, loud exhausted, high HP screaming meanie. That era ended years ago when they stopped putting big blocks in regular passenger cars. Little do they know, loud does not always mean ineffiecient. Too bad for those of us that liked em. At least a lot of that stuff can be changed back with little and easy modifications like CAI and high flow exhaust. Just isn't as easy to tune the new cars as it wa with a Holley 4 barrel.

k what chips are you guys putting into your computer? im looking to defently add some stuff to get the power up!

Nobody has a chip or tuner out yet to my knowledge.

The "chip" theyre talking about is Bull. In most cases, it's a silly resistor like SoCalHHR said. Other than that, Im not sure.

Not to mention, You can't use a chip, Because, If i'm not mistaken, The HHR's Computer is flash-based.

There's no "chip" - it will be a module that plugs in. Things are still in the works right now though...stay tuned!

Yeah but chip is the general term given to the little module that plugs into the brain.

As long is it does not void my warranty and casue problems that could cause an accident then its ok for me

Vehicles are not tuned to the lean side from the factory, if anything they are tuned rich. A lean tune leads to detonation which can kill motors. I don't think GM wants to be buying motors for customers because they leaned the vehicle to far out. As far as a chip is concerned, no vehicle 97 or newer has has a chip. They have tuning devices such as hypertech, or Predator, or you can get fancy and get a software program to run from a laptop such as tunercat or LT1/LS1 edit for the f-bods. In my experience the tuning devices are garbage you can't get enough of a custom tune out of them, wait until a laptop based program comes out that allows to to fine tune everything, and get it tuned on a dyno. As far as this ebay "chip", all it is is a resistor plugged between the air intake temp. sensor and the PCM, it tricks the PCM into thinking the air is cooler coming into the intake, thus dumping more fuel. Go to radio shack and pick up some 50 cent resistors and just do it yourself.

This is the chip I had on my 2002 Mustang.
http://www.diablosport.com/DeltaChip.php
As you can see it is a chip not a power programer or computer program. I understand it is a module that remaps the factory program and it is not like installing a chip in your home computer because I have installed them in cars before.

This is the chip I had on my 2002 Mustang.
http://www.diablosport.com/DeltaChip.php
As you can see it is a chip not a power programer or computer program. I understand it is a module that remaps the factory program and it is not like installing a chip in your home computer because I have installed them in cars before.


Guess I should clarify that my post pertains mostly to GM vehicles. Either way, if you are going to mod heavily, a "chip" or power programmer are garbage and may cause more damage than good. A program written specifically for an individual vehicle is the way to go.

Of course a Dyno tune is the way to go. :thumb: Thats what I figured you meant being a GM tech. ;) just busting your balls a bit. :beer:

OK haha thanks everyone for clearing that up. LOL no chips for mr HHR at least for now LOL honestly thought u guys think an air filter would make it sound any better im not 2 sure if i should start going into that stuff what you guys think?? *thanks for all the help im not to old but im really good with cars so all your input helps ALOT*

THANKSSS

As a compare putting a NOS kit will maybe give you 35 to 50hp. on a 2.2 or 2.4 ecotec motor

As for a magic electric kit First off, all those mods will do is adjust your fuel/air for you. As any car fool can tell you that all depends on the ambient pressure and the air density or heat of were your at. These magic products are fixed to give you as much fuel as possible. But now since its a fake output on your air side your timing is off. The O2 sensor will read your not burning all your gas and retard your spark,That means less power at high rpm. This may give power within a cretin bandwidth but you loose more power in others. They are not worth the money to ship them.
If you want to make one just go to your local electronics store and buy a diode, and 5ohm resistor and put them between your V+ and V-ref on your Mass air flow meter. it wall coast under a dollar.:bow:
Now If you want to do tuning first thing is go to eBay and look for a product made by HKS. called a AFR (Air Fuel Ratio Regulator). This plugs in between your wiring harness and MAF (mass air flow meter). It allows you to adjust the voltage input to you ECU that means air. If you do not understand what I am saying don't touch your car.
Second is add a wideband O2 sensor that has a VAR from .2 to 7.5 volts instead of .5 to 5.0 . This will allow you to adjust your timing. You can tune.
Last is add a vacuum fuel pressure regulator to adjust your fuel press. RK sports makes a nice model that's easy to install. I've noticed with my 2.2l ecotec the stock injectors begin cavitation at 42>psi.:thumb:
Then
Put a exhaust system around 2.5 form cat back and an intake and you might pick up around 25hp for about 1000 rpms. like 4200 to 5200. and a few more horse power above that.:bow:

Wow! Talk about resurrrecting myth and lore from the dead with even more! :eek:

The 2.4 E67 ECM is one of the most sophisticated of the GM units available. Any of these resistor-type devices will only trick the ECM during the very short open loop warmup period. Once the system goes into closed loop, the primary O2 sensor will detect any variance from stoic and correct the AFR via fuel trims on an ongoing basis.

Other than a piggy-back type system for unusual setups like N2O for FI system, only reprogramming the ECM will work, and with good results if done right. Expect 10-15 HP gains in reality.