Ok, here's my problem.

I had a Curt Class 1 hidden hitch installed on my 2008 Panel. I drove up to Michigan from southeast TN to buy a "teardrop" camper trailer. The camper weighs exactly 860 pounds, but because of the axle location (single type), the tongue weight is 240 pounds. Now then; the tongue rate for the hitch is 300 pounds, but the tongue rate for the HHR is only 100 pounds.

I have tried putting extra weight in the back of the camper, but the axle is too far back on the trailer frame, so the effect was minimal. I even took the camper to a local custom trailer company to have them give me an opinion. They said, yes, they could relocate the axle, but then I would have to totally redo both sides of the camper, because the tires would be right where the doors to the inside of the camper are located. So that is not an option.

My question is, would improved suspension (shocks, springs) raise the allowable tongue weight for my HHR? The folks at the trailer company said the HHR has a "unibody" type chassis, not a true frame. I do not really want to sell the camper. It is the perfect size for just me and my dog. If you folks can provide suggestions for me, I sure would appreciate it.

Like I mentioned, adding weight to the rear of the camper will not work.

Thanks.

Pete
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc110/retnavycpo/4385019_17.jpg
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/1/7/8/8/PIC_0036.jpg
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/1/7/8/8/PIC_0037.jpg

all you need is air bags! doing just the rear is simple.

all you need is air bags! doing just the rear is simple.

Thanks for the quick reply!

Suggestions on where to buy the bags, brand? Cost, and expensive to have installed?

Thanks.

Pete

You can do the air bags but your hitch is attached to sheet metal not a true frame.

You can do the air bags but your hitch is attached to sheet metal not a true frame.

Is there anything I could do to reinforce the hitch attachment, or make it more secure?

Thanks.

Pete

Very nice looking camper, too bad they didn't bridge the weight better. I don't have any advice. I just hope you can fix your problem because you got a nice little set up there. If you can't and you have to sell the tear drop, look into Serro Scotty campers. They have a 13' campers, that are not tear drops but they have the classic look your going for. They only weight 1000lbs, and the weight is well distributed. I have a 15' Serro Scotty Goucho that weighs 1300lbs and the hhr pulled it just fine, and still got about 25mpg or better.

Just a thought. Ask those trailer specialist if they could just put some trolly wheels underneath the tongue to take some of the weight. I have seen some pretty robust trolly wheels that are used to move canoes around. Check out the link.

http://www.cheltenham-canoes.co.uk/products/equipment/trolleys.htm

Just a thought. Ask those trailer specialist if they could just put some trolly wheels underneath the tongue to take some of the weight. I have seen some pretty robust trolly wheels that are used to move canoes around. Check out the link.

http://www.cheltenham-canoes.co.uk/products/equipment/trolleys.htm

Exactly what I was thinking...like they do for the back of rv's..... here's a pic of one
http://www.competitionplus.com/2006_07/photos/new_products/trailer%20toad%20hooked%20up.JPG (http://www.competitionplus.com/2006_07/photos/new_products/trailer%20toad%20hooked%20up.JPG)

I called a company that makes wheels like that today. But he said I need a minimum of 13" from the ground to the bottom of the hitch receiver. I only have 8.5........

Do you have a link for that picture?

Pete

I called a company that makes wheels like that today. But he said I need a minimum of 13" from the ground to the bottom of the hitch receiver. I only have 8.5........

Do you have a link for that picture?

Pete

http://www.competitionplus.com/2006_07/photos/new_products/trailer%20toad%20hooked%20up.JPG

and another

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.airflo.net/images/Dolly%25201.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.airflo.net/dolly.htm&usg=__oB3lDP5LwuDFSI-MCCqCgdtpnqQ=&h=291&w=448&sz=190&hl=en&start=66&um=1&tbnid=-Mtx4Nqco4zxOM:&tbnh=82&tbnw=127&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddolley%2Bwheels%2Bfor%2Btongue%2Bweig ht%26ndsp%3D21%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26rlz%3D1C1G GLS_enUS320US320%26sa%3DN%26start%3D63%26um%3D1

you could probably have one made or you could have them move the wheels forward and shorten your doors a little or even raise it (frame) up so the door just misses the fender......just a thought

Another thought occured to me - do an axle flip and move them forward that could get you under the frame (no cut outs needed to tuck the wheels) and therefore not interfere with the doors...although you may need to have a custom receiver made...as i'm not sure how much of a rise you can buy....

Another thought occured to me - do an axle flip and move them forward that could get you under the frame (no cut outs needed to tuck the wheels) and therefore not interfere with the doors...although you may need to have a custom receiver made...as i'm not sure how much of a rise you can buy....

Would you please explain your suggestion? I don't understand what you mean by "axle flip".......

Thanks.

Pete

JC Whitney sells air bags that go in the springs that will fit the HHR. I believe they are made for the Caviler. Several people here have used them. This may get your rear end up higher and help some. However it will not improve the tongue weight. I am sure you could get some reinforcement metal welded into the frame if you could find someone to take on the responsibility.

Good Luck. The trailer is very cool.

if your gonna do airbags dont get them from jcwhitney but i dont think airbags are the solution

Would you please explain your suggestion? I don't understand what you mean by "axle flip".......

Thanks.

Pete

i was reading up on a way to get my pop up more level when towed by my van, and came across people doing axle flips. they take the axle assembly out from under the trailer and flip upside down and remount it thus giving a higher ride height to the trailer. Not all trailer can be done this way buy possibly yours.... if this is the case then the tire would be further below the frame and not need a pocket to ride in and therefore could be moved forward under your door area...possibly

i'll try to find an article and give you a link.

Thanks!

Pete

Again, as was posted once earlier on this thread, the hitch attaches to sheet metal and NOT to the frame. The tongue and trailer weight is limited because of what the hitch itself can handle. BE CAREFUL.

here's the axle flip i was talking about...

http://www.rverscorner.com/axles1.html

if you can get something like this done and move the axle forward to decrease the tongue weight to 100lbs or less and being that the camper is under 1000lbs you'll be good to go.....cept for maybe a custom 1 inch raised receiver to keep the trailer level during towing


good luck and let us know the outcome.

I feel the trailer limits are crap for these cars. Here is a chevy epica. A european car. It can tow over 3000 pounds. I doubt it has a much different drivetrain and even body construction than the hhr.
http://www.cars-of-europe.com/chevrolet/chevrolet_epica_25_ktc2836.shtml

I just feel the weights are kept lower to sell more trucks than anything.

I feel the trailer limits are crap for these cars. Here is a chevy epica. A european car. It can tow over 3000 pounds. I doubt it has a much different drivetrain and even body construction than the hhr.
http://www.cars-of-europe.com/chevrolet/chevrolet_epica_25_ktc2836.shtml

I just feel the weights are kept lower to sell more trucks than anything.

That's one reason, but also to limit lawsuits against them by people who tow MUCH heavier loads, and then have accidents as a result.

Pete

While hamstringing the rest of us that know better.

I installed my own hitch and as many have said,it attaches to pretty thin sheet metal (designed to absorb energy and crumple in a crash) I looked into every possibly of uping the towing capacity.I decided on safety,rather than towing capacity.

I installed my own hitch and as many have said,it attaches to pretty thin sheet metal (designed to absorb energy and crumple in a crash) I looked into every possibly of uping the towing capacity.I decided on safety,rather than towing capacity.

So what, if anything, do you tow with your HHR now?

Pete

I will have to look up my hhr's rear end:red:and see what I can do. I will sacrifice some crumple for more tow.

As with anything, use common sense. If it feels unstable, it's probably not safe to do so. I installed my hitch and I can tell you, it did not mount to flimsy sheetmetal....:lol:

I tow a small trailer that I built,using a cartop carrier that I had and a trailer kit from Harbor Freight tools. The carrier is 18 cf and fits the trailer perfect,plenty of room for my camping gear.

As with anything, use common sense. If it feels unstable, it's probably not safe to do so. I installed my hitch and I can tell you, it did not mount to flimsy sheetmetal....:lol:

Where the hitch mounts is to u shape piece of formed steel channel welded to the underside of the tire well. The metal is not much more than 3/16" if that. Not flimsy,but not strong enough to tow much more than 1000lbs.

You have to check this out! I think its appropiate for this thread.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56XL0TysIn0

yeah all you need is a gooseneck like that and all your problems are solved

Well i wasn't recomending doing that for the HHR, being that the roof is week on the hhr too, but its definatly an interesting idea hahahaha.

Another unique trailer hitch idea was develeped by Glenn Curtiss, who lived in hamondsport ny. Not far from me. He designed one of the first 5th wheels. He actually put a hitch over the rear wheels of the car, instead of behind the car. For more information look at the link below or look up Glenn Curtiss Aerocar.

http://rvbasics.com/techtips/Glenn-Curtis-Fifth-Wheel.html

Changing weight distribution or moving axles to artificially reduce tongue weight is highly dangerous. Unless the center of mass substantially favors the tongue, yaw stability goes out the window. Have a fabricator reinforce the hitch area and throw some Air Lifts at it. Be safe!! Also, add a transmission cooler if you're towing with an automatic. BTW, that's a beautiful woodie. Did you get it from a dealer?

Reading this finally gave me insight as to why the '71 Firebird Formula 455 I once owned was not recommended for trailer pulling.I knew the powertrian could do it,but I thought the structure was the culprit.Now I see that I guessed correctly.

I am new to this site, but I tow a teardrop trailer I built that weights 850 lbs. It has 165 lbs of tounge weight. The teardrop trailers by design have a higher tounge to trailer weight ratio, most trailer should have 15% on the hitch, teardrops are much higher mostly. Long story short, you should be able to move the axle foward some,(keeping at least 15% on the hitch) as I wish I had done with mine. Also, look into custom 1/14 inch weight distrabution hitches. Not sure if anyone makes one or not. I agree with the previously mentioned fact that the hitch mounting to the subframe is the weak point. The torsion beam suspension is perfectly suited for overloading because you will not wear out the inside of your tires like you would on Multi-link like my old CR-V.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/1/4/7/5/2/summertrip148.jpg

Here is my teardrop from the above post 170lb tounge wt and some stuff packed in back of car and it isn't squatting too bad towed great, but I only have 2.2 L w/5speed so a little slow off the line as I had a gross vehicle weight of almost 5000 lbs. (yeah I know it says not to tow with manual, but I towed 2000 miles in one trip with no problems... look up astra tow specs in australia w/ 1.8 ecotec and 5 speed)