Ive had my HHR for about 16 month's, and put about 17,000 miles on it.
i drive in stop and go traffic daily coming in and going from work and i may have a little of the aggressive driving habits that aint so good for the brakes..

So I had the dealer change the pads once 4 monthes after i got my car.
a year later its feeling bad , now the rotors look glazed adn lined from extensive heat.
Anyone had much of this issue ??

How many of you have put slotted and dimpled Rotors on yours?

I'm considering these with warranty and the better ones come with free brake pads. But im not sure how much of a dead it is and if its worth it. :confused:

http://brakeperformance.com/site/brake_rotors.php?&vtype=1&vmake=18974&vmodel=28680&vyear=28695&vdetail=28696&cPath=1_18974_28680_28695_28696_28698&dv=080809&ad=yahoo&osCsid=12889f658f70535204c6e03c1e1d8d60

I put slotted / drilled rotors on at 3000 miles. Stock pads.

Now at 27,800 without issue. I got them at R1Concepts.

I did machine the rotors before installing.

Cajun / Al

if u bought new slotted and dimpled rotors why did u have them machined before installing???

I know my rotors were resurfaced before I bought them, but I've looking into new ones (since I'm sure it'll happen again), and once it does, I think I'm going to go with some R1 Concepts.... To me, those just look the best for your money.

I've been trying to get these
http://www.ajusa.com/details/index/145/0/2150/EBC+USR7375

The link in your first post doesn't look very promising. There isn't a brand for any of the rotors. That's not a good sign to me.

From what I understand drilled and slotted rotors serve no purpose except for weight...at the cost or reduced surface braking area and more chances of stress cracks from improperly machined rotors and reduced heat dissipation. When is the last time you have seen these rotors on any type of SERIOUS race car? Unless it was for weight.. and those will be drilled and scalloped non-vaned rotors.

if u bought new slotted and dimpled rotors why did u have them machined before installing???
It's been years since new rotors are sure to be true out of the box.

Always a good idea to check them before installing.

I took off less than .002....

Cajun / al

From what I understand drilled and slotted rotors serve no purpose except for weight...at the cost or reduced surface braking area and more chances of stress cracks from improperly machined rotors and reduced heat dissipation. When is the last time you have seen these rotors on any type of SERIOUS race car? Unless it was for weight.. and those will be drilled and scalloped non-vaned rotors.I saw this on the web: EBC have always been honest enough to say that the biggest advantage of slotted rotors is the fact that they promote flat and parallel pad wear rather than allowing ridges to develop on pads and rotors which is typical of "drilled only" sport rotors. By preventing these ridges brakes stay more consistent throughout pad and rotor wear life (simple physics!).

I ride dirt bikes & the brakes have come a long way. We started with drum brakes & finally got a disc set-up. Front only at first & then rear too! The first disc brake rotors were pretty crude. Large, solid & heavy. Eventually they figured out that they could save some unsprung weight by making thinner, smaller rotors. A rotor with drilled holes soon followed. The size & amount of the holes varied from mfg to mfg. Next came the 'oversized' rotor 'kit'. This was a larger diameter rotor & used an adapter to relocate the caliper. Soon after they started experimenting with slots. The trend these days is to cut metal out of every possible place. This creates the petal or wave rotor. The outer edge of the rotor is not round. It is cut out to save even more weight. Side note: In extremely muddy conditions, the high-end motorcycle race teams use an 'old school' solid rotor (round with no holes or slots).
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/9/brakerotors.jpg