I did it today with Eibach's! Even threw on my 17 by 8 American Racing wheels, no rubbing so far. I love the way it looks, not ridiculously low, but low enough that it looks cool. Other than cornering improvement, I can't really feel a big difference in the ride. I went out to the local twisties and ripped, it felt like I was in a go cart. Great cornering combo; anti-sway bar and lowering!

Joe

Break out some pics Joe. You know people are gonna want to see those. :lol:

pics pics pics please!

Here's a couple of pics with my stock wheels, the Americans slightly rubbed on big bumps so they are for sale.......http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y285/joek86/redone4.jpg


http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y285/joek86/redone5.jpg


Joe

JOEK86, Hope you don't mind but I took the liberty to lighten your second pic so as to be able to see the lowering job better. I also resized it to 640x480. Thanks for posting the pics. I think that the gold lines would be too low for me and these may work better.http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/1/0/7/5/redone5a.jpg

Thanks, I have to figure this pic thing out one of these days!

With people in the car the Eibach's are the way to go , at least for me. The GL's probably look more slammed, but in practical everyday use, I'll stick with the E's. I can't imagine any lower and still liking the ride..........


Joe

JoeK...Lookin' Good! Just a quick questions. Did you have to get the front end aligned after you installed the springs?

JoeK...Lookin' Good! Just a quick questions. Did you have to get the front end aligned after you installed the springs?

After approx 200 miles I had a Hunter alignment done. Not way off, but needed some adjustment.


Joe

After lowering, you should put 100-200 miles on the car to let the new springs settle - then get an alignment.

Hope it helps,

Looks good Joe. :thumb:

After lowering, you should put 100-200 miles on the car to let the new springs settle - then get an alignment.

Hope it helps,

As long as I have been driving lowered cars (10 years and many cars), I've been told by hobbyists, professionals, and manufacturers, that quality lowering springs do not settle.

I'd love to hear others' comments on this...

Well, having been in the automotive publishing industry over 20+ years - and lowering MANY cars, I can tell you they do! :lol: Even if the springs did not sag-in, you still need to drive the miles in case something was not "loaded" right when installed (i.e., the spring was not sitting in it's seat properly). Bottom line: for best results wait, then align. :thumb:

Well, having been in the automotive publishing industry over 20+ years - and lowering MANY cars, I can tell you they do! :lol: Even if the springs did not sag-in, you still need to drive the miles in case something was not "loaded" right when installed (i.e., the spring was not sitting in it's seat properly). Bottom line: for best results wait, then align. :thumb:

So... you're not necessarily allowing time for the "springs" to settle, but rather the rest of the car. Certainly believable.

I'm currently in the middle of a complete suspension re-do on a '95 VW Golf... Struts/shocks, springs, all polyurethane bushings (no rubber left on this one when I'm done), ball joints, and sway bars. I'll give it a few hundred miles before aligning, just to see.

I've always aligned my cars immediately after lowering. A second alignment generally is cheaper than new tires. :lol:

It generally takes 300-500 miles for a wear pattern to set in on radial tires, so waiting 150-20 miles is a safe bet...unless it's really off! :lol:

Good luck with your Golf! :thumb:

As long as I have been driving lowered cars (10 years and many cars), I've been told by hobbyists, professionals, and manufacturers, that quality lowering springs do not settle.

I'd love to hear others' comments on this...

I've been lowering car's now going on 30+ years and what you've been told is pretty accurate. A good quality spring will not settle over time. After you install good springs and do a measurement, then take the car out for a good test drive you will see somewhat of a difference. Your initial measurement will not show you the advertised drop height, but when you measure again after a test drive you will find that it's pretty darned close. That's not just the spring settling in, it's also the rubber pieces such as spring dampers, seats etc. also settling to the new springs. But this settling should be done in a very short time, less than 10 miles or so. Look at it this way. If springs had to settle to their ride height over time then all new cars would settle in at different ride heights (over time), but for the most part they're pretty darned close to to each other based on any given year, make, and model. I usually have my alignment done the very next day and when re-checked a year or so later I've yet to see one settle any more and have never had to have one realigned because it needed more time to settle. I used Progress Tech springs on my Focus, had it aligned the next day after about 30 miles of driving. It now has about 100k on the suspension and although the alignment was out a slight bit (wear of components over time), the ride height is still the same as it was back in 2002 when I installed the springs. I don't own it any more, but the guy I sold it to is a friend and I get to see her (the car) every so often. OK....Flame away...haha

BTW: In the past 5 years I've lowered between 20 - 25 cars, and I always tell those people to get their alignment done ASAP and most do it the next day (miles vary). Not one has ever had an issue with settling over time and / or miles. -Dan

Look at it this way. If springs had to settle to their ride height over time then all new cars would settle in at different ride heights (over time), but for the most part they're pretty darned close to to each other based on any given year, make, and model.

The main difference is that with lowered cars the spring rates are much lower and more inconsistent than factory height springs.
It's pretty easy to keep factory cars consistent with the higher rates.

End of flame...:lol:

The main difference is that with lowered cars the spring rates are much lower and more inconsistent than factory height springs.
It's pretty easy to keep factory cars consistent with the higher rates.

End of flame...:lol:

So your saying that people like Progress Tech and other quality spring makers are inconsistant in their quality control? :p:

So your saying that people like Progress Tech and other quality spring makers are inconsistant in their quality control? :p:

A lot less stringent than the OEM spring makers.

I'm speaking from experience here too! :lol:

A lot less stringent than the OEM spring makers.

I'm speaking from experience here too! :lol:

I'll buy that, but in the last five years or so about 25% of my lowering jobs were using springs made by one single manufacture on virtually identical cars. All of these cars are at about the same ride height and all have varying mileage with no settling problems. And to top this off, who do you think OEM contracts to manufacture their springs anyway? Not trying to be pissy but I too am speaking from many years of experience as well. Mike your a great guy no doubt, and I'll always support you, but sometimes your opinion is very biased and your mind isn't as open as it should be. -Dan

My Eibachs pro kit on my cavalier has never settled or lowed any, and they have been on my car for a couple years now. I race it weekly and no I am not nice to them. Also my brothers tein S kit has not settled at all. The only springs I have seen settle were gold lines we put on my friends neon, and a set of progressive springs put on my friends srt4. Both neons rides wonderful, but that could be from the koni struts.:thumb:

When I used to race I would rate all of the springs in the trailer every month. I found some brands would loose rate more than others. AFCO springs were the best, I don't know if they make springs for street applications though. I once tossed all of the Eibachs out and swore off buying them anymore because the would lose rate so fast. I'm sure we just got a bad batch. Now remember this was pretty hard on springs NC short tracks 3200 lb late model. I don't know if any of this applies to street cars?

I'll buy that, but in the last five years or so about 25% of my lowering jobs were using springs made by one single manufacture on virtually identical cars. All of these cars are at about the same ride height and all have varying mileage with no settling problems. And to top this off, who do you think OEM contracts to manufacture their springs anyway? Not trying to be pissy but I too am speaking from many years of experience as well. Mike your a great guy no doubt, and I'll always support you, but sometimes your opinion is very biased and your mind isn't as open as it should be. -Dan

Well Dan, I'm sorry you see it that way, but on this board I am speaking regarding my personal experiences with suspension on the HHR during the past year - not any of my other 35+ years of modding my own cars.

What I have found during this time (dealing with HHR's), is truly a sad state of affairs. Companies releasing parts that lose rather than make power, parts that do not even come close to fitting the vehicle they are designed for, springs that sag, bounce, and bottom over even minor road bumps, and production suspension parts that do not come close to the advertised drop. Ask HHR DLYT and HHRNOPT what I'm talking about - they will confirm.

I could go into detail (and some others on this forum who have bought from me know what I'm speaking of), but I don't want to turn this into a product/brand bashing session. Suffice it to say that SoCalHHR's only carrys products I feel comfortable selling to my customers. We could just "move boxes" like some companies do (and we would make a lot more money), but I prefer to test each product in-house and if it doesn't perform as advertised - we don't sell it.

It all boils down to ethics, and if that makes me look narrow-minded and biased, well......so be it.

dan-d and Mike (SoCal)

I have only been a part of this forum since May, but in that time, I have come to look for both of your posts, listen and evaluate your opinions. The two of you have taken the time to answer this relative new members questions, no matter how simple or uninformed they were and I thank you for that. Please don't go down the road, so to speak, that too many other people on this forum have recently. :beer:

I have no problems with Dan at all. He's a great guy and very knowlegeable - especially about vehicles. I just wanted to specify why my "stance" may seem biased at times; we buy the parts, try them, and only sell what works.

Hey I feel the same way about Mike, he's one of the best car people I know. I think where things got off hand is where I'm talking about "Quality Built" springs which shouldn't ever settle and / or sag. Mike on the other hand has had some bad experience with springs of lesser quality. Using one of those springs may lead to other problems. I've never had any problems on springs I've installed, but I do know others have, even using so called "Quality springs". But let's face it, even Famous Amos bakes a bad batch of cookies every now and then. I've been lucky and haven't eaten any yet. Mike, my appologies to you if I offended you :bow: as that wasn't my intent. Just got a bit over zealous while speaking my mind. -Dan

Hows the ride with the E's

No offense here, Dan! A forum is all about expressing opinions (and we've done just that). I like to keep things on the civil side as often as possible - and I know you do as well.

Everything is good. :D

So, how the hell are you guys?

That's it! I'm settled on being settled :poke: This sure is settling! :lol: I think I'll settle this once and for all :eek: there it's settled! :D

Ng

So, how the hell are you guys?

I believe the question was ----- How is the ride ? and 2nd part--- how are you guys ?

yep thats it!