View Full Version : Keyless entry not working


jdarter42
11-08-2011, 05:05 AM
My key fobs have lost their signal? I replaced the batteries in both of them and still not working. Does the 2008 HHR LT have some type of reset system? I had a 99 Mazda 626 and I could reset the system by turning the key 4 times (not starting the car) while holding the light button in the door jam. It would go thru the security system and reset the the key fobs.

Any suggestions on resetting my fobs? Where I dont use my key to unlock the door I am having trouble getting into my car. I lock my car using the power button on the door.

db/sb
11-08-2011, 06:35 AM
Here's a couple of threads that may be of some help:
http://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=28165
http://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36606

foolmoon_design
11-08-2011, 09:10 AM
It may or may not be your fobs. There is a battery and receiver relay located in the rearview mirror that can go out. when it did on my SS, I had the same issue. Dealer re-flashed fobs for free that time. this problem will especially occur after the battery has been drained. If you come out in the morning to a dead battery(in my case my son had played with all the lights, and they were left on overnight, without noticing) there is a chance the Relay will go down as well causing a $200 bill for fob re-flash because of a dead battery. There is a related TSB about this "condition". these cars have more quirks than the cast of Jersy Shore.

Just this August I replaced both fobs and had to re-flash. over 3 hundred bucks for fobs and flash.

urbexHHR
11-08-2011, 09:25 AM
Make sure the connection inside the fob for the battery is good. You also may need to clean the contact points inside as well.

jdarter42
11-08-2011, 09:39 AM
Thank you for the link. To purchase the keylessfix would be good if I knew for sure that was the problem. If you read the questions page it still has to be taken to dealer for programming. Which is still cheaper than buying one from dealer. I spoke to two dealers and they said it could actually be the transmitter on my car. I am going to bite the bullet and pay the $70 and get my car checked out. Who would have thought something so handy could be such a headache.

jdarter42
11-08-2011, 09:51 AM
Ok I have cleaned the contacts in the remotes. Repalced both batteries. Checked the soldier in the remotes looks like are contacts are fine. Someone posted about a battery in the mirror how do I get to that? I have the 2008 HHR LT, Black, leather, chrome, 2.4l. I love my car gets pretty good gas mileage.

Any help will be greatly appericated

jdarter42
11-08-2011, 11:03 AM
Ok I have cleaned the contacts in the remotes. Repalced both batteries. Checked the soldier in the remotes looks like are contacts are fine. Someone posted about a battery in the mirror how do I get to that? I have the 2008 HHR LT, Black, leather, chrome, 2.4l. I love my car gets pretty good gas mileage.

Any help will be greatly appericated


I forgot to add I do not have onstar. My car was ordered with that deleted. I bought the car used. It was a year old when I bought it with 28,000 miles. I have not had much trouble with my car. There was a few little things fixed under warranty. And the only thing I have had to replace was the sway bar links. That took care of the clunking noise in the front end. I love my car but I am beginning to wonder about it.

Greybeard999
11-08-2011, 12:25 PM
Has the car's battery run down recently? From what I've read the 2008 has an issue with this as Foolmoon mentioned above..... I believe once that is fixed it's not prone to happen again as there is a change to the vehicle's programming.

jdarter42
11-08-2011, 02:12 PM
Are you talking about the car battery? That battery is fine not weak or anything. Some one mentioned a battery in the rearview mirror. We are going to unhook the car battery and see if that will reset the car.

Greybeard999
11-08-2011, 02:29 PM
I meant the car battery...... You may be chasing a different problem. I take it this is a new problem and the fobs have been working up until recently.

jdarter42
11-08-2011, 02:33 PM
I meant the car battery...... You may be chasing a different problem. I take it this is a new problem and the fobs have been working up until recently.
Yes they were working up until just a couple of weeks ago. The one I carry all the time was working but slowly. Would have to push the button a couple of times to lock or unlock. So I got the one that had not been used out of the cabinet and tried it nothing. So I put new batteries in both remotes nothing. I really wouldnt care about this but winter is coming and I love my remote start. Without the fobs working I will have to go out in the cold to crank my car. I guess I am a little spoiled.

ChevyMgr
11-08-2011, 03:06 PM
Are you talking about the car battery? That battery is fine not weak or anything. Some one mentioned a battery in the rearview mirror. We are going to unhook the car battery and see if that will reset the car.

There isn't a battery in the mirror. Maybe they meant the RCDLR mounted in the headlining near the mirror. Still that's not a battery but rather the module that receives the RF signal from the transmitters and the tire pressure sensors.

jdarter42
11-08-2011, 05:01 PM
There isn't a battery in the mirror. Maybe they meant the RCDLR mounted in the headlining near the mirror. Still that's not a battery but rather the module that receives the RF signal from the transmitters and the tire pressure sensors.



What do you suggest I do? Take it to the dealer and have them check it out. Or do you think unhooking the car battery will reset the system?

donbrew
11-08-2011, 06:30 PM
I am still betting the battery contacts have broken, especially if you have replaced the battery. When you try to do it the logical way, you can easily mess it up; you have to remove the circuit board from the rubber and carefully PUSH the battery out/in. If you have not already replaced the batteries then try that, BTW most autoparts stores have a FOB tester sitting on the checkout counter, no assistance needed, you just walk up to it and push your button and watch for the lights.

jdarter42
11-08-2011, 07:38 PM
I am still betting the battery contacts have broken, especially if you have replaced the battery. When you try to do it the logical way, you can easily mess it up; you have to remove the circuit board from the rubber and carefully PUSH the battery out/in. If you have not already replaced the batteries then try that, BTW most autoparts stores have a FOB tester sitting on the checkout counter, no assistance needed, you just walk up to it and push your button and watch for the lights.


Does advance auto have this tester you are talking about? I have two remotes one is new unused I got it out of the cabinet and it did not work either put new battery in it hoping it was just dead. Neither one works. I was standing in from of my car this evening and was pressing the buttons occasionally the unlock button on the fob will make the lights come on. But the only way it will even try to work is to be standing at the front. Any ideas?

donbrew
11-08-2011, 07:58 PM
Does advance auto have this tester you are talking about? I have two remotes one is new unused I got it out of the cabinet and it did not work either put new battery in it hoping it was just dead. Neither one works. I was standing in from of my car this evening and was pressing the buttons occasionally the unlock button on the fob will make the lights come on. But the only way it will even try to work is to be standing at the front. Any ideas?

Every Advance, Zone and Pep I've been in has one, it's a placard standing on the parts counter. Check your radio antenna for tightness, I'm not sure if there is a connection or not. Sounds like a weakness of signal, either sending or receiving. The RCDLR, the thingy that receives the signal, lives under that bump in the headliner near the rear view mirror, could be a problem with the antenna part of it. Also make sure the DIC is programmed for the doorlock etc., check the manual for instructions or search here for interminable threads on the subject.

jdarter42
11-08-2011, 08:34 PM
Thank you I checked the DIC everything is ON that is supposed to be. That was the dealers first suggestion when I called them. I will go by advance tomorrow.

jdarter42
11-09-2011, 12:26 PM
Ok I went to advance auto and used the key fob tester. It lit up when I pushed the unlock button not the lock button. I can lock my car with the power button on the door and unlock it with the remote. The new unused remote works much quicker than the one I had been using for 3 yrs.

I guess the only thing left to do is go to the dealer.

Replaced batteries in both remotes, cleaned contacts, and checked to make sure the battery was making good contact. Unhooked the car battery to see if that would reset the system. Didnt work. If it wasnt for my remote start I really would not worry about it. But winter time can be pretty cold here in Southwestern VA.

2008 HHR LT, Black, leather, chrome, 2.4L, no onstar, and Basset Hound on the back window. :happyfacerainbow:

donbrew
11-09-2011, 06:28 PM
Neither fob lit up for locking? Did the other fob used to work? If the fobs don't light up the tester, then it's not likely the car's fault. Before you spend lot's of money at the dealer, try Ebay for new "rubber" I searched "remote fob gm repair" and got a lot of results at $5.48 free shipping, other terms may get different results. That beats a $78 minimum shop charge!

jdarter42
11-09-2011, 07:10 PM
Neither fob lit up for locking? Did the other fob used to work? If the fobs don't light up the tester, then it's not likely the car's fault. Before you spend lot's of money at the dealer, try Ebay for new "rubber" I searched "remote fob gm repair" and got a lot of results at $5.48 free shipping, other terms may get different results. That beats a $78 minimum shop charge!
The fob just stopped locking in the last couple of weeks. It will unlock the car. The new fob that was put up will unlock car but not lock. The old fob I had been carrying for 3 yrs will unlock car after pushing the button two or three times. The old one will not unlock car either.

It is strange that the new fob is doing the same think, on the locking part. I called the dealer and they said it sound like the transmitter. I guess I will have to bite the bullet take it in for a checkup.

donbrew
11-10-2011, 06:35 PM
The transmitter is the fob?!. The receiver is the RCDLR (the car). still say pay $5.48 instead of $78 for a first aprox.

Lucky
11-10-2011, 07:04 PM
i have fixed lots of these remotes with keylessfix.com it is a thin pice of plastic that makes the contacts work again

jdarter42
11-10-2011, 07:49 PM
The transmitter is the fob?!. The receiver is the RCDLR (the car). still say pay $5.48 instead of $78 for a first aprox.
If it is in the key fob why is the new unused one not working? That is what makes me think it my be my car. I will order the things you are talking about and see if that works. Dont the new thing have to be programmed?

foolmoon_design
11-11-2011, 07:01 AM
There isn't a battery in the mirror. Maybe they meant the RCDLR mounted in the headlining near the mirror. Still that's not a battery but rather the module that receives the RF signal from the transmitters and the tire pressure sensors.

Sorry ChevyMgr

The confusion stems from me, as I was ref the RCDLR as a battery.

donbrew
11-11-2011, 10:15 AM
If it is in the key fob why is the new unused one not working? That is what makes me think it my be my car. I will order the things you are talking about and see if that works. Dont the new thing have to be programmed?

No, it is only the rubber part. You take the fob apart and keep everything except the rubber part, or you can get the insert type of thing that goes under the rubber, or you can get an entire new fob case including the rubber. That's 3 option under $10, My choice was a new fob case, they are all functionally equivalent. As long as you use the same circuit board no programming is required. The dealer, or locksmith will charge something more than $100 for a new complete fob and then something like $70 to program the car to the new fob.

What makes me believe it is the fob is that when you aimed at the tester "lock" did not light it up ,but "unlock" did, and I presume, the other buttons did. I am just saying try for a cheap fix first, then worst case scenario is you got a pretty new looking fob, and you can then pay the pro his due.:clappy:

brown1243
11-11-2011, 12:22 PM
keyless fix will probably take care of the problem check out on google 10 dollars ,fixed mine

jdarter42
11-11-2011, 02:43 PM
No, it is only the rubber part. You take the fob apart and keep everything except the rubber part, or you can get the insert type of thing that goes under the rubber, or you can get an entire new fob case including the rubber. That's 3 option under $10, My choice was a new fob case, they are all functionally equivalent. As long as you use the same circuit board no programming is required. The dealer, or locksmith will charge something more than $100 for a new complete fob and then something like $70 to program the car to the new fob.

What makes me believe it is the fob is that when you aimed at the tester "lock" did not light it up ,but "unlock" did, and I presume, the other buttons did. I am just saying try for a cheap fix first, then worst case scenario is you got a pretty new looking fob, and you can then pay the pro his due.:clappy:
Both remotes did the same thing. One remote is new and had not been used since I had the car it has been hanging in the cabinet for 3 years I put new batteries in both remotes. I dont see the new fob being like the one I had carried every day. Looks like it would have worked. Both remotes did the same thing at the tester at advance auto. I am really puzzled.

donbrew
11-11-2011, 03:01 PM
Some people think electronics is Magick, and sometimes it is.

Lucky
11-11-2011, 08:00 PM
My fathers used remote had problems the first time we used it I had to install the keyless fix thing to get it working. I think the contacts inside corrorde over time used or not

iroga65
11-16-2011, 03:42 AM
Chevy Hhr 2008.Where is the module RCDLR installed/placed?

jdarter42
11-16-2011, 04:44 AM
Chevy Hhr 2008.Where is the module RCDLR installed/placed?
someone said it was up in front of rearview mirror above the light that shines on the window buttons

I havent taken my car in yet for a checkup I ordered the keyless fix I hope that solves my problem

iroga65
11-19-2011, 01:45 AM
Chevy HHR LS 2008.Dead battery.Keyless entry quit working, but TPMS working.If replace the module RCLDR GM25974373 and reprogram key fobs, then does all the work?

07azhhr
11-19-2011, 02:04 AM
someone said it was up in front of rearview mirror above the light that shines on the window buttons




So that is what that stupid blue led is for???? I put a piece of black foam in the opening cause that light is annoying as all heck.

I don't know about that keyless fix but for my fob my battery contact ring had come up out of the circuit board. I resoldered it to the board and all has been well since.

donbrew
11-19-2011, 05:24 PM
So that is what that stupid blue led is for???? I put a piece of black foam in the opening cause that light is annoying as all heck.

I don't know about that keyless fix but for my fob my battery contact ring had come up out of the circuit board. I resoldered it to the board and all has been well since.

NO, the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) just lives under the same bump. The annoying LED is to illuminate the window control buttons, and alert the driver that the dash lights are on (vs. the DRL's).

jdarter42
11-19-2011, 09:38 PM
donbrew

I havent received my keylessfix in the mail yet. When I checked my fob at Advance Auto the unlock button would make the light flash on the tester but the lock button did nothing to the tester. I tried both remotes and one of them is unused been hanging in the cabinet since I bought the car. Any ideas?

07azhhr
11-20-2011, 01:47 AM
donbrew

I havent received my keylessfix in the mail yet. When I checked my fob at Advance Auto the unlock button would make the light flash on the tester but the lock button did nothing to the tester. I tried both remotes and one of them is unused been hanging in the cabinet since I bought the car. Any ideas?


Are you saying that BOTH fobs have only the unlock button working? If that is the case then it sounds more like either a you need a relearn/reprogram of the fobs or the RCDLR is faulty.

donbrew
11-23-2011, 03:01 PM
Chevy HHR LS 2008.Dead battery.Keyless entry quit working, but TPMS working.If replace the module RCLDR GM25974373 and reprogram key fobs, then does all the work?

I think all you need to do is the security reset. I don't think that the keyless entry will work if the security system has been triggered or disabled. I don't remember how, but it's real simple. Just my guess.

jdarter42
11-23-2011, 09:06 PM
I think all you need to do is the security reset. I don't think that the keyless entry will work if the security system has been triggered or disabled. I don't remember how, but it's real simple. Just my guess.

Can you offer anymore help? According to the readout the dash everything is on. I noticed on one topic someone said to leave the car battery unhook for 30min to allow system reset. Do you think that will help? When we unhooked the battery we only left it undone for a few minutes

donbrew
11-24-2011, 10:29 AM
Can you offer anymore help? According to the readout the dash everything is on. I noticed on one topic someone said to leave the car battery unhook for 30min to allow system reset. Do you think that will help? When we unhooked the battery we only left it undone for a few minutes

The security system is what I was talking about there. I think it's as simple as putting the key in the ignition and locking the doors, it's in the manual.

if you have tried the new keypad fix, and it didn't work, I guess you gotta let the dealer take your money. That's about the end of DIY territory.