You can see it HERE (http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=63-3056).

Here's a pic:

http://kandn.com/images/m/63-3056.jpg

Looks similar to an Airaid with a top to seal it fully.

Dyno charts show 9hp increase....:( :confused: :D

Cost: $285.29 at the K&N online store.

Anyone want to do a shootout? (I'm not going there again!) :lol:

N-E-Wayz...just wanted to give a head's up. :D

Hmmmm.......That might be what I was waiting for. :confused:

Go for it CH - break virgin ground.

Is that an actual shot of the HHR intake or a generic FIPK shot that they stuck on the site?

That is the real deal.

Here's a pic installed;

http://www.socalhhr.citymax.com/i/Hidden%20Pics/KnN_HHR_Intake.jpg

it actual if you look at the picture then look at the airade kit look about the same except for the cover on top and the k&n look lik a small air box unlike the airade one that has the wiring inside the air box

this option is for 2.4 only why not 2.2?

Hmmmm......it still goes against all my theories on intakes. Why are there no CAIs for the HHR that relocate the filter to the inside of the fender?

this option is for 2.4 only why not 2.2?

K&N shows it only for the 2.4L.

The 2.2L is a different engine and has a different valve cover.

I'm guessing their mounting system is not compatible with the 2.2L.

Hmmmm......it still goes against all my theories on intakes. Why are there no CAIs for the HHR that relocate the filter in the fender?

#1) Too hard to get into the fender to change the filter - without pulling the whole fender off.

#2) This setup is still getting air from the stock fenderwell location.

Really doesn't matter though; that plastic filterbox is going to get plenty HOT sitting on the engine!

So what's the difference in this new K&N setup verses just replacing the stock air filter with a stock replacement K&N air filter. Indirectly, that's all you are doing really with this setup aren't you? :confused:

I like the way it looks much better than the Airaid. But, the air supply is still limited by the small hose going to the fender. I believe that the CGS can inhale much better. Plus, even though the box is sealed, it is still sitting on top of the engine being cooked. And the air coming from the fender hole is the same as the air fed to the CGS, except the CGS also is fed air from the engine compartment. Plus, I like the clean looks of the CGS better. I just took off the factory bracket for the original air cleaner, and the engine compartment looks 100% better.

Well, here are some photos of what you get in the box. I finally got mine today. My car was a test car for the prototype, so I got my K&N intake in exchange for the use of my HHR..... I will install it tonight, and see what I think. If I don't like it, the price was still right :thumb:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/hhrdlyt/KandN2.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/hhrdlyt/KandN1.jpg

I thought some of you would get a kick out of this photo :lol:

CH should get one and then make his hood scoop that he gets functional ;)

More goodies for the HHR consumer. :smile: I'll stick with my CGS. :thumb:

Word to the wary in California..I just checked out K & N's site. Kit does not currently have CARB exemption..although if you read into it further, they imply that CARB status is pending, then turnaround and states that it is not street legal in California. :wtf: ?

I guess it's just me, but I think that thing is FUGLY! :barf:

Just my opinion, and yes it does stink :D

Ng

That was one of the main factors why I don't want it. :lol:

Maybe I missed it in the "How To Guide " section of the forum but I can't find a write up on how to remove the stock air filter on a 2.4, any help?

K&N and CGS both get 8-9 extra hp but what about gas mileage improvements? Can anybody help still don't know what to get.
Thanks:roll:

I wrote an email to CGS looking for mileage information and have not heard back from them. Does anybody have increased mileage from either the K&N or CGS ?

Maybe I missed it in the "How To Guide " section of the forum but I can't find a write up on how to remove the stock air filter on a 2.4, any help?
Here ya go Dark Age

From the Owner's Manual:

To inspect or replace the filter, do the following:

1. Disconnect the MAF sensor, PCV hose, and both ducts.

2. Pull the entire system from the top of the engine.

3. Flip the system over and place it on a soft, non-abrasive surface.

4. Remove the screws that hold the housing and cover together and lift off the housing.

5. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter.

6. Reverse the steps to reinstall the system. Be sure to reinstall the housing tightly.

I wrote an email to CGS looking for mileage information and have not heard back from them. Does anybody have increased mileage from either the K&N or CGS ?

I have the CGS and I have seen and increase on the average of 2-3mpg in the city...but that is all dependent on how I drive it. Got a tendency to "get on it" now which affects it a bit when I do that. :thumb:

Edit after reading SoCalHHR's post below: I have both the CGS and the IMCO T924. ;)

Here ya go Dark Age

From the Owner's Manual:

To inspect or replace the filter, do the following:

1. Disconnect the MAF sensor, PCV hose, and both ducts.

2. Pull the entire system from the top of the engine.

3. Flip the system over and place it on a soft, non-abrasive surface.

4. Remove the screws that hold the housing and cover together and lift off the housing.

5. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter.

6. Reverse the steps to reinstall the system. Be sure to reinstall the housing tightly.


Deb, I've read that in the owners manual also, from what I've read on this forum the air filter is tucked inside the fender well ( for the 2.4 anways ) not on top of the engine.:confused:

No - only the fresh air access hose fits into the fenderwell hole.

The filter is mounted inside that HUGE black housing on top of the engine.

No - only the fresh air access hose fits into the fenderwell hole.

The filter is mounted inside that HUGE black housing on top of the engine.


O.K, I thought I've read where people said the filter was inside the fender well...I guess not ( which is good ). Thanks

I wrote an email to CGS looking for mileage information and have not heard back from them. Does anybody have increased mileage from either the K&N or CGS ?

CGS "claims" an increase of 1-2mpg with their system. This always depends on how you drive your vehicle. Most owners with new intakes can't keep their foot out of it, as they are enjoying the increased power (which is only noticeable when you punch it!).

IF you drive your HHR conservatively, you will notice a 1-2mp increase in mileage during highway driving. Adding the IMCO 924 will bring your toal improvement up to 2-3mpg over stock.

Hope it helps,

Thanks for the replys on gas mileage gains with the CGS. If my calculations are correct the CGS intake should pay for itself in 40,000 miles based on $3.00 per gallon and an increase of 1.5 MPG. I will have to buy one once I get some money together.

but
what it will pay off in smiles is Priceless
and worth every penny

Well, here are some photos of what you get in the box. I finally got mine today. My car was a test car for the prototype, so I got my K&N intake in exchange for the use of my HHR..... I will install it tonight, and see what I think. If I don't like it, the price was still right :thumb:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/hhrdlyt/KandN2.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/hhrdlyt/KandN1.jpg

I thought some of you would get a kick out of this photo :lol:
HHR Dlyt....

Did you install it? If so, comments? Is the "box" insulated?

to me if you added a K&N filter in the stock system it would be about the same.
i just dont see where this is much different than that stock setup but w a million mile filter

Probably one of the biggest complaints owners have is engine noise, you'll find the stock air box much more restrictive then the K&N box ( hell, with the K&N box there's no restriction ). I think the K&N intake would have look better if it had a smooth finsh instead of it's rough looking appearence. Just my :2cents: worth.

Almost $290 for the K&N AIK?? Almost $100 more than CGS or Airaid. Don't know about that. If K&N wants to stay competitive, they best be gittin' on lowerin' that price I reckon'.

You get what you pay for. :lol:

Almost $290 for the K&N AIK?? Almost $100 more than CGS or Airaid. Don't know about that. If K&N wants to stay competitive, they best be gittin' on lowerin' that price I reckon'.


If it was in the price range of the Airaid I think it would sell well, in all likely hood the price for the K&N will probably stay too high for most buyers ( me included ).

I think that is list price not an actual selling price from a parts dealer.

Did you install it? If so, comments? Is the "box" insulated?

Snoopy, yes I (not my husband) installed it last night. I didn't post any photos or anything because it is not as asthetically pleasing as the CGS and I got the impression that no one was interested.

The box is not insulated. The install was fairly easy. I think it gives the CGS a run for it's money in the performance department. My 'butt dyno' tells me that it is definitely has more guts than before. When you put your foot in it, it is much louder than stock with a deep 'throaty' sound. I'll be able to tell if the mpg increases after a couple of tanks. Right now, I can't tell you because I keep my foot in it too much :lol:

I would love to see pix.
You could always run a pipe to the lower grill area and get a little more air flow to it.

I didn't post any photos or anything because it is not as asthetically pleasing as the CGS and I got the impression that no one was interested.

Today some of us may not be interested but you never know about tomorrow, post some pics if like.

Okay, here are a couple of pix I took last night. No, it is not as nice looking as the CGS.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/hhrdlyt/KandN4.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/hhrdlyt/KandN3.jpg

nice looking setup DLYT. Hope you enjoy the added HP!

Okay, here are a couple of pix I took last night. No, it is not as nice looking as the CGS.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/hhrdlyt/KandN4.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b397/hhrdlyt/KandN3.jpg

If I had the K&N intake I would do a couple of things to make it look nicer, not alot of time invested and not much money.

1. Sand the intake tube smooth, using a primer and paint made for plastic I'd repaint it high gloos black.....with more time invested maybe the box also...or at least the top.

2. For looks I would get a silicone reducer hose, this hose would go over where the intake tube goes into the box. The only purpose of this hose would be for looks. Reducer hose pic, you can get it in red, blue and black.

http://www.stylinmotors.com/images/Blue_Reducersa_001.png

3. For clamps I'd go with stainless steel T-bolt clamps. Clamp pic.

http://www.stylinmotors.com/images/hdtbolt1.jpeg

A few links for parts.

www.stylinmotors.com

For clamps http://www.hose-man.com/sys-tmpl/door/ Six locations in Cali.

www.bakerprecision.com Located in Cali.

The bottom line is if you're happy then that's all that matters.

I would also cut a bit off of the PCV hose before it starts to kink.

Once it does, oil will start blowing out from the valve cover gasket...

Snoopy, yes I (not my husband) installed it last night. I didn't post any photos or anything because it is not as asthetically pleasing as the CGS and I got the impression that no one was interested.

The box is not insulated. The install was fairly easy. I think it gives the CGS a run for it's money in the performance department. My 'butt dyno' tells me that it is definitely has more guts than before. When you put your foot in it, it is much louder than stock with a deep 'throaty' sound. I'll be able to tell if the mpg increases after a couple of tanks. Right now, I can't tell you because I keep my foot in it too much :lol:

Becky....

Nice piece of work !!:bow: I think this "system" has some possibilities, with a few changes. So, keep me informed, please. I'm looking at different suppliers, now, and have in down to about $ 250 shipping included....have not checked local speed shops yet.

Which ones better the Kand N or the CGS

Which ones better the Kand N or the CGS

Let's not have another CGS vs. AirAid debate! :eek: It is going to be a matter of opinion O6. ;) Some people care about looks, some people care about performance, some care about gas milage, and so on. Everyone chooses their favorite intake for their own reasons.

Let's not have another CGS vs. AirAid debate! :eek: It is going to be a matter of opinion O6. ;) Some people care about looks, some people car about performance, some care about gas milage, and so on. Everyone chooses their favorite intake for their own reasons.
home depot intake ownz joo!!!!!!!!:lol:

:eek: :laughabov :nono:

Let's not have another CGS vs. AirAid debate! :eek: It is going to be a matter of opinion O6. ;) Some people care about looks, some people car about performance, some care about gas milage, and so on. Everyone chooses their favorite intake for their own reasons.
Wow...Captain,

You really impressed me with this. Nice work!!!:bow: :bow: (wish I had a Smiley with clap...opps, I mean clapping):D

we need some numbers.....

16, 32, 64, 128.

There you go! :lol:

we need some numbers.....

Dyno numbers are on the K&N site....

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/9/1/6/Picture1.png

Wow!!! I really like that setup a lot.

Someone mentioned on here about the box getting hot. I don't think it's so much the heat of the box that should be considered as it is the fresh air being directed to the box. Think about how fast air moves through there, and there's nowhere near enough time for the air to heat up. The air is constantly circulating from the fender well to the box.

I still think the AirRaid and now this K&N would be the way to go "if" and when a company makes an aftermarket hood. I'm pretty certain that a lot of ram air hoods use the AirRaid intake to make the hoods functional. It's just a matter of time in my opinion.

The problem with a ram air hood and the Airaid would be that the scoop would have to be off center, since the airbox is on the passanger side of the engine compartment. Personally, I would prefer a nice cowl induction hood with the CGS. Circulation would be greatly improved, heat reduced in the engine compartment, and the CGS would benefit from getting air from both the fender hole and the scoop.

Wait so Kn is saying the 2.4L dynod' at 127hp? i thought people have gotten like 163hp stock on their dynos?

No...you're looking only at the spec for what K&N provided....@5325 RPM. Look at total HP at the end of the RPM range....looks like about 140ish and 150ish.

Also, I have seen the 2.4 dyno, in stock form, from 136 to 167...depends on who is doing the dyno and how.

O ok i see now thanks

I just ordered this system sunday, and got the 2 day shipping option. Hopefully she'll be here soon enouogh so i can get started on the install.

I just ordered this system sunday, and got the 2 day shipping option. Hopefully she'll be here soon enouogh so i can get started on the install.


Let us know how it goes.

Let us know how it goes.

They just shipped it out monday morning, and gave me a tracking number, so hopefully very soon it shall be here. If i can find time to get my fiancee's digital camera, ill post pics of that and my gmpp exhaust.

Two comments re: the K&N dyno chart posted:

1. The numbers are the maximum difference between the two tests, which happened to take place at that RPM. Both make more HP further up the RPM range, but the difference is less.

2. Look at the top right of the chart where it says, "CF: SAE". That is the corrected horsepower figure that takes into account temperature, altitude and humidity. Really more accurate.

Dynojet's software actually records all the info from runs. You can view the recorded data in charts from many perspectives, SAE in this case or uncorrected and even DIN, the spec used in Europe and other standards.

Most of the numbers people have posted are uncorrected, which may "look" better, but make comparisons difficult, if not impossible in a situation where people start posting their results. I tried to point this out in another thread but the discussion was just getting interesting when the thread mysteriously got locked. :confused:

There was no mystery to it!

They just shipped it out monday morning, and gave me a tracking number, so hopefully very soon it shall be here. If i can find time to get my fiancee's digital camera, ill post pics of that and my gmpp exhaust.

If you can, start your own thread so it dosn't get lost in this one.

Is there any documented fuel mileage gain or loss for this product or like products.

John
2007 2LT Amythst

Is there any documented fuel mileage gain or loss for this product or like products.

John
2007 2LT Amythst

As with any HP increasing product, it's all in HOW you drive. My mileage hasn't changed much after adding a CGS intake because I "drive it like it's stolen" on the weekends, and my wife drives it "normally" for her weekly commuting.

If you look at the notes you can see the graphs used are a second gear run. It doesn't say if its a manual trans or automatic, which will have different peak HP. Also the peak HP will change depending on what gear they did the run in. Gains in HP will also change depending on gear tested. As far as the airbox heating up, it should be very minimal as someone else stated the air isn't in the tube long enough to heat up. The other thing K&N does with their graphs is they find an average HP increase. Some vehicles may actually see more HP gain, but because K&N guarantees the HP they claim, they lowball it.

The Dyno run was with an auto trans. I know because that was my HHR that they used :smile:

If I had the K&N intake I would do a couple of things to make it look nicer, not alot of time invested and not much money.

1. Sand the intake tube smooth, using a primer and paint made for plastic I'd repaint it high gloos black.....with more time invested maybe the box also...or at least the top.

2. For looks I would get a silicone reducer hose, this hose would go over where the intake tube goes into the box. The only purpose of this hose would be for looks. Reducer hose pic, you can get it in red, blue and black.

http://www.stylinmotors.com/images/Blue_Reducersa_001.png

3. For clamps I'd go with stainless steel T-bolt clamps. Clamp pic.

http://www.stylinmotors.com/images/hdtbolt1.jpeg

A few links for parts.

www.stylinmotors.com

For clamps http://www.hose-man.com/sys-tmpl/door/ Six locations in Cali.

www.bakerprecision.com Located in Cali.

The bottom line is if you're happy then that's all that matters.


Speaking of the link above for stylinmotors, I was just on another site and found this promo code. tried it and it worked. code is good for 20% off and the code is LS1.

This box does need some help that is for sure. I like your ideas.

JUST GO TO INTAKEHOSES.COM if you want to start making things good customer service and products

JUST GO TO INTAKEHOSES.COM if you want to start making things good customer service and products

Says they are closed.

nah just went there its good to go www.intakehoses.com

o i see what you mean sorry well when they get up again you should be allright

o i see what you mean sorry well when they get up again you should be allright


Did find some pricing from them on silicone. stylin was much less expensive (esp. with 20% off) and has good reputation.