A few new HHR owners have experienced failures of the rear hatch due to a faulty membrane switch. Since the vehicle is so new many dealers aren't up to speed on what to check or how to fix the hatch problems. The following is a copy of the PIC memo (which precedes an official TSB), diagnosing the problem and explaining the proper correctional measures. If you have problems getting your rear hatch to open, print this out and take it to your dealer when you bring your car in. Hopefully this will save many new HHR owners lots of time. Here's the official PIC:


HHR Rear Hatch TSB

Rear Hatch Inoperative with Rear Touch Pad – keywords: fob handle key latch switch unlock

#PIC3631C - (Nov 29, 2005)

Problem: Rear Hatch Inoperative with Rear Touch Pad
Model: 2006 Chevrolet HHR

The following diagnosis may be helpful if the vehicle exhibits symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:

Rear hatch is inoperative with the rear touch pad.


Recommendation/Instructions:

First, make sure that the door lock switch or key fob UNLOCK button has been pressed 2 times. It is absolutely necessary to have all doors unlocked before the rear hatch will open from the touchpad. If still inoperative then remove the rear hatch panel, via the removable cover in the rear hatch inner panel at the bottom.

Unplug the actuator and install a test light in between terminals 1 and 3 of the actuator. Use the touch pad and watch for the testlight to illuminate for 1 second with every press of the touch pad. If light illuminates, replace the rear hatch actuator assembly.

Note: The NEW actuator/latch assembly will come with a long (1 foot) plastic strip hooked up to the manual release on the actuator assembly. This is to be removed from the latch before it is installed into the rear lift gate, as its for ease of production installing. (ONLY)

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.


GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
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Repost. I posted it in the rear hatch thread a couple of weeks ago. :D :beer:

I figured it needed to be a sticky in the "How-to" section so it doesn't get lost.
This way we don't have to keep re-posting it.

I figured it needed to be a sticky in the "How-to" section so it doesn't get lost.
This way we don't have to keep re-posting it.

Just busting your balls. :beer:

Mine feel fine.

BTW...I had mine replaced today as well as the drivers side mirror(I was getting a whistling sound from it above 40 mph)...I am however now getting a squeaky drivers seat and a squeaky clutch pedal...wondering if its something worth *****ing about to the dealer..

-wC

BTW...I had mine replaced today as well as the drivers side mirror(I was getting a whistling sound from it above 40 mph)...I am however now getting a squeaky drivers seat and a squeaky clutch pedal...wondering if its something worth *****ing about to the dealer..

-wC

I get a whistle fom the drivers mirror, but it's only noticable with the window half way down.

mine was noticible with the window up and the radio on...they replaced the whole mirror...

-wC

BTW...I had mine replaced today as well as the drivers side mirror(I was getting a whistling sound from it above 40 mph)...I am however now getting a squeaky drivers seat and a squeaky clutch pedal...wondering if its something worth *****ing about to the dealer..

-wC
I also get a noisy drivers seat, but I think mine is just the cold weather, I'll see if it continues then i'll do something about it.

Repost. I posted it in the rear hatch thread a couple of weeks ago. :D :beer:

I think that I was the one who started that thread. Appreaciate the help of the TSB notice :bow: It only took 2 weeks for the dealer to get the part to fix it.

Sorry i posted in the wrong area all you have to do is turn your key to the ACC. and unlock your door or roll your window up and down 3 times and it will reprogram the latch.

huh?

-wC

Sorry i posted in the wrong area all you have to do is turn your key to the ACC. and unlock your door or roll your window up and down 3 times and it will reprogram the latch.

I think she was fu**ing with you. Did you give it a try? :D

hahah no I'm not that dumb...that made no sense...it was clearly a problem with the actual mechanics of the hatch...

-wC

No not you, I know your not that dumb. I was refering to this: http://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=736. That's where the post stems from.

It won't do anything. The latch itself is bad, hence the TSB for an updated latch.

I dunno since I went out and tried this I've had no problems with the hatch...

-wC

I dunno since I went out and tried this I've had no problems with the hatch...

-wC

If it actually did something the TSB would instruct the dealer to roll the window up and down not replace a part. GM hates to pay for anything that includes updated parts or the tech to install it. If they could get away with paying .2 hours to roll the windows up and down rather than whatever the latch pays they would. Not to mention no where in the service manual does it say roll the window up and down to reset the BCM. I'll pull the wiring diagram for the latch tomorrow, to see what commands it but generally you have to cycle power to the module to get it to reset, rolling the windows up and down won't cut it.

If it actually did something the TSB would instruct the dealer to roll the window up and down not replace a part. GM hates to pay for anything that includes updated parts or the tech to install it. If they could get away with paying .2 hours to roll the windows up and down rather than whatever the latch pays they would. Not to mention no where in the service manual does it say roll the window up and down to reset the BCM. I'll pull the wiring diagram for the latch tomorrow, to see what commands it but generally you have to cycle power to the module to get it to reset, rolling the windows up and down won't cut it.


um well I was j/k... :beer:

-wC

um well I was j/k... :beer:

-wC

You had me worried. :beer:

like magic beans...(they never work!)

Wait, magic beans don't work..?

Magic beans will only work if your name happens to be Jack... ;)

this is true...cuz I've tried beans and the window trick and no problems with my hatch!

-wC

LOL! :D But were you using the beans while doing the window trick? :confused:

ah now see you guys weren't specific enough...

-wC

Magic beans work's for me.

Hey, my car is nicknamed "Jack"... I'm sure those Magic beans will work for me too! ;)

Just watch out for Jill

Hey Y'all,

Well I found out yesterday, while doing some Christmas shopping, that my rear hatch won't open anymore . Everything worked on Sunday when I went snowboarding but no luck yesterday.

What a great time of the year for this to happen. Get the car into a service department is going to be impossible. Loading the car for Christmas travel and skiing and snowboarding is going to be impossible until this gets fixed.

I am so p!$$ed right now. Stupid thing picked the perfect, busiest time of the year to crap out on me. URGG

I am so p!$$ed right now. Stupid thing picked the perfect, busiest time of the year to crap out on me. URGG

I know just how you feel. My rear hatch failed on me this same week--last year. And of course the rear was full from shopping, so I had to climb through the back doors to get the last of the shopping bags and boxes out.

On the plus side, it only took them a day to get it fixed.......After waiting a week for the part to arrive at the dealer.

I'm booked in at the service department for Dec 27 to have the problem looked at. If it takes a week to get the parts, I'm going to be stuck with an inoperative back door for two weeks or more. That's going to seriously suck!

Well hopefully the parts are easier to come by now that the car has been on the market for over a year.
It took only 4 days for the body shop to receive the new hood for my HHR.

I'm up in Canada, sometimes things take longer to get done up here becuase parts have to get ordered from the US. I'm hoping it will be a quick fix.

I'm up in Canada, sometimes things take longer to get done up here becuase parts have to get ordered from the US. I'm hoping it will be a quick fix.

Good luck, and hopefully you'll be as good as new by Christmas!!

Okay, while on vacation in Nashville the hatch refuse to open (just a tick over 36K on the odo). Checked the fuse and it was okay. So from Nashville to Florida with 2 nights' stay in Valdosta, GA I had to haul the luggages for the 4 of us from the back seat! :mad: When I got back home, I took it in to the dealer for service. As suspected it was the servo that went out. Was honest with the service writer about this happening while on vacation but just past 36K miles. He said no prob... and fixed it under warranty. It's nice to have hometown dealers that we've bought multiple cars from! :thumb: I was in and out in 2 hours... he said the reason it took so long was the tech had a tough time opening the hatch using the emergency release... he spent half an hour looking for it and then another 15 min using a screwdriver to release. Good thing it wasn't an emergency! :roll: