Is this a back yard mechanic job? What tools are involved? Spring compressor, or do they come out easy? I must confess I have not looked under the car with this in mind yet (it is dark and cold outside now).
I know the alignment needs to be adjusted-are the shims easy to install?

For anyone with moderate mechanical experience, it is an easy job, especially the rear.

For the front you will need a spring compressor.

On the rear, simply remove the lower shock bolts and let the axel down and the springs will come out easy.

After driving to let it "settle in", have the alignment checked. In the front you possibly will need an offset bolt in the upper strut-to-hub mounting to correct the camber. The rear won't need anything if it was right to start with, since alignment won't change with the rear geometry design.

The rear does change quite a bit actually. Mine had 1/2-inch of negative camber in the rear - that is substantial. Just go in for a 4-wheel alignment and when they put the heads on they will tell you if the rear is out or not. Gold-Line recommends that the rear shim kits be installed with their springs.

Joe - did you do yours in the driveway? Were you able to get enough height with a standard jack to actually lower the rear trailing arms down? I have only done drops on a lift, and wasn't sure if a jack would provide enough height for the operation. I suppose you were able to get the struts out ok as well? Let me know...

Mike,

There was absolutely NO CHANGE in the rear of mine. The geometry of the rear will not change during travel or from lowering. It is a straight trailing arm design connected by a torque tube. There is zero "camber curve" in the rear. My front only added 1/2 deg. negative, but still within spec. No toe change. Since I tend to corner hard, I've always gone on the negative side of the specs. That will keep tire wear even.

The rear spec is .8 (+/- .75) neg. If your had .5 deg. neg. it was fine. The shim kit normally should not be needed. Maybe Gold-Line likes to sell shim kits? ;)

If your rear was out of spec and needed shims, it was out before lowering it.

Yep, did it in the driveway with a floor jack and stands. Plenty of room.

I will be lowering mine either Saturday afternoon or early Sunday. I'll take pix and do a write-up afterwards...

Ng

Ng,

Yep, pics would be helpful for those considering doing it themselves.

I apologize for not documenting my job w/ pics. I guess I was in too much of a rush to see the final results to take the time to shoot some pics.

Yeah, pics would be helpful. There is a guy a couple of houses up from me that dropped his Mustang in his garage, so armed with instructions and pictures maybe I can pay him to help me out when I get my HHR.

It's definitely easier with two people. I lowered mine, with a little help (mainly on the front end).

Mike, A regular floor jack works just fine for this. I had no problems at all using my craftsman 2 1/4 ton jack. I also ended up with no change in the rear (don't need the shims), and only .5 change in the front. My alignment guy said all was fine.

It's definitely easier with two people. I lowered mine, with a little help (mainly on the front end).

Mike, A regular floor jack works just fine for this. I had no problems at all using my craftsman 2 1/4 ton jack. I also ended up with no change in the rear (don't need the shims), and only .5 change in the front. My alignment guy said all was fine.
Did you use the Goldline?

Did you use the Goldline?
The goldline's are the only way to go. Eibach is marketing the Cobalt's springs for the HHR. Besides, the Goldline springs are up to $100 cheaper.

It's finally here!!! The Spring Install thread is playing now at the "How To" forum near you :D ! Dial-up, get your parents permission first :D . Hurry, go check it out.... :cool:

Ng

I already checked it out. Good job NG, very clear. Thanks for taking the time to do the how-to and post it. :beer:

How long for the front, how long for the rear?

How important is the impact wrench?

Looking forward to the handling report.

Thanks for the excellent coverage. I will be doing mine in the near future.

The impact wrench just makes it alot easier. You can just you a ratchet and socket set, though

The impact wrench just makes it alot easier. You can just you a ratchet and socket set, though

I would like to hear from someone who can get the top main nut off the strut without an impact. I'm pretty sure it can be done...but I've tried and couldn't. The impact just makes life so much easier and faster.

I started the install on Saturday afternoon and had to stop because the air tools make noise and I didn't want to piss off the neighbors. I resumed on Sunday. I had to slow down to take pictures too. I didn't keep track of time, but I'm guesing for the average wrencher, and hour an a half for the back and three for the front. This is a solo, if you have someone to help it will be faster.

Ng

Thanks for the info. I have a medium compressor that has moderate output (good for low compsumption tools). I bought an air wrench, but have not tried it yet. I could always bring the assembly to my friends garage if I have any problems. I would like to do the front first just to see how the car looks with the raked look ;)

Thanks for the info. I have a medium compressor that has moderate output (good for low compsumption tools). I bought an air wrench, but have not tried it yet. I could always bring the assembly to my friends garage if I have any problems. I would like to do the front first just to see how the car looks with the raked look ;)

About 3 Christmas's ago, my wife bought me a nice vertical compressor from Sears (about $250-$300). It came with a small impact that couldn't break squat. So I bought a really nice one from sears and paid about $100. At the time I was rebuilding/restoring my 89 Toy 4Runner, so I was using it almost every week. Now I hardly use it and sits in my garage. But it comes in handy in situations like this.

Ng

Re: top strut nut...

I've got an impact, but didn't bother getting it out for this job. It is a good "trick" if you don't have the special tools and have difficulty with the strut shaft turning with the nut, though.

Tip: Loosen (and tighten upon reassembly) the nut with the load on it. Much less tendency for the shaft to turn. Warning: Just loosen it. Make sure that the threads have good engagement before removing strut!

Re: top strut nut...

I've got an impact, but didn't bother getting it out for this job. It is a good "trick" if you don't have the special tools and have difficulty with the strut shaft turning with the nut, though.

Tip: Loosen (and tighten upon reassembly) the nut with the load on it. Much less tendency for the shaft to turn. Warning: Just loosen it. Make sure that the threads have good engagement before removing strut!

I've never tried that...I'm too paranoid from horror stories I've heard about springs popping out and going through walls and injuring people. That's for the brave. Good info though...

Ng

you can also grab the piston with vice grips and hold it while turning the nut but deff loosen while on the car