Here it is, after much anticipation, my Goldline spring install. The springs were bought, along with camber and shim kit, through SoCal :bow: . This was a solo install in my garage. I give it a 3 out of 5 wrench difficulty only because of the special tools required. There are different ways of doing this, but this is how I did it:

Tools I used:

Sockets: 10, 13, 18, 19 (lugnuts), and 21 mm (24mm for the spring compressor tool).
Large brass punch
Hammer
Air compressor and impact wrench (1/2 inch drive)
2 jacks (1 heavy duty 3 ton Craftsman and a small one to help line-up bolt holes during installation)
2 jackstands
Spring compressor tool
1 hacksaw
TQ wrench (100 ft. lbs. for lugnuts)
universal adapter (3/8)
Ratchet wrench and two 3 inch extensions (3/8)

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs001.jpg
Here's the kit I bought from SoCal :bow: .

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/rear.jpg
Stock rear :roll:

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs004.jpg
Stock front :( .

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs005.jpg
I started with the rear first. Jack it up and remove the tires.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/rearedit.JPG
Stock rear set up. The two red arrows show the two bolts you'll need to remove on both sides. This is all that is needed to remove the springs from the rear.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs009.jpg
Remove the rear brake line nut from both sides (10 mm). Move this bracket and brake line so you have room to push down on the lower arm without stretching the brake line.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs007.jpg
Remove both lower shock bolt.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs010.jpg
Bolt removed. Once both bolts are removed you can push down on the spring arm and remove the stock spring.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs011.jpg
Rear spring removed.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs012.jpg
Remove the lower isolator and bumpstop top pads from the stock spring and install on the goldline. Make sure you trim the bumpstop per Goldline specs (SoCal has a nifty flyer that shows you how).

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs013.jpg
Trim the rear bumpstop with a hacksaw and install on the new spring.
Then install the Goldline set-up. I used a small jack to help compress the spring and line-up the lower shock bolt holes. Afterwards, installation is the reversal of removal.

You only want to do one front strut at a time. This allows you to see the other side if you forget how something goes back together.

Remove 2 out of 3 of the top strut bolts (13mm)
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs015.jpg
I left the front one half way on to hold it up while removing the lower hardware. You will need a universal adapter and the two 3 inch extensions together to reach the two back bolts here. (Sorry about the pix, cheap camera :D )

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Frontedit.JPG
For the bottom, you will be removing a total of 3 nuts, two bolts and one wiring harness.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs016.jpg
Start by disconnecting this plug and removing the wire harness from the strut and out of the way (it simply pulls out of the bracket). Once you remove the two nuts, you will be able to move the bracket out of harms way.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs017.jpg
Then remove the top sway bar nut (18mm) and move it out of the way. Here I used a small jack underneath the spindle. I pumped up on the jack until the strut lined up with the bolt. If you don't, once you remove the nut, the spring pressure will push down on the link and it will be hard to remove or you will damage the threads.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs027.jpg

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs018.jpg
Remove the two spindle bolts (18mm). After you remove the nuts, you will need a hammer and a large brass punch. These bolts are pressed in and need force to be removed. Word to the wise, be careful not to damage the threads. I put the nut back on flush with the top of the bolt and hammered away. Did not damage the threads. I also left the small jack under the spindle to support the weight of the spindle assy (to prevent any possible damage to parts while the strut is removed, user preference).

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs020.jpg
These little boogers do not want to come out :mad: !

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs022.jpg
Stock strut removed. Take notes or draw a picture of how all the hardware goes that will be reinstalled on the goldline springs.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs023.jpg
Spring compressor tool installed. Impact wrench comes in handy here. Properly tighten down the spring tool. I tighten them down until I see a gap between the bottom of the strut and the spring.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Strutedit.JPG
Once you have the spring properly compressed, this is the nut you will need an impact wrench for.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs024.jpg
Stock vs. Goldline. Make sure you keep track the way the hardware was installed on the stock setup.
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs025.jpg
The bumpstop is hiding inside the dust boot. Trim the bumpstop according to Goldline. Just like the rear, I used a hacksaw and then reinstalled the bumbstop inside the boot.

Compress the Goldline spring and re-install all other hardware. Put the strut together and tighten down the main nut with the impact.
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs026.jpg
Once everything is together, installation is reversal of removal. Don't forget the ABS wiring bracket before you install the spindle nuts. Once again those spindle bolts are pressed in, so use a large brass punch and persuade those bad boys in.

New rear height...
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs029.jpg

New front height...
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Springs030.jpg

Before... :confused:
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/HHR021.jpg

After... :eek:
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Lowered004.jpg

Your the man. Looks awesome.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Lowered003.jpg

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Lowered002.jpg

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Lowered001.jpg

The road test will come this week. I work Tuesday through Sunday 70 miles roundtrip each day. I'll let you know in a couple of days how it rides. Also next Monday I'll take it to the alignment shop and let you know how much, if any, the alignment was out. Later...

The End
Ng

Good job bro.I'm sure I'll be refering back to this when I do mine.

Just curious prior to the install what kind of Supension did you have? Touring or Sport?

Just curious prior to the install what kind of Supension did you have? Touring or Sport?

Whatever the 2LT came with? Another words, I'm not sure... :( I'll check my window sticker later...

Ng

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Lowered003.jpg

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Lowered002.jpg

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/3/2/Lowered001.jpg

The road test will come this week. I work Tuesday through Sunday 70 miles roundtrip. I'll let you know in a couple of days how it rides. Also next Monday I'll take it to the alignment shop and let you know how much, if any, the alignment was out. Later...

The End
Ng

My black 2LT is jealous! :bow:

Great Job Ng - my black 2LT is happy for it is only a week or so until I do mine, and your "How To" was excellent. Thanks for sharing! Ride looks really good! I didn't check to see if someone answered your question, but I believe you probably have the sport tune suspension which comes with the prefered package!

Would you please provide me with the measurment between the bottom of the front valance and the ground?

Would you please provide me with the measurment between the bottom of the front valance and the ground?

Most lowered HHR's won't have any issues scraping the valance. But, you will want to "ease up" on every cement parking stop you come to! I haven't had any problems with the valance scraping the ground. Today I went over some GIGANTIC speed bumps very slowly and my sidepipes scraped a bit - never anything from up front though. (*Keep in mind, my HHR is lowered + running boards + sidepipes! I only have 3" clearance under my pipes.)

This is going to sound absolutely insane, but the reason for the measurment request is... I am a fanatic about driving a clean car. But, time isn't always on my side. So, I frequent a specific car wash in the area. I must have at least 4-5/8" clearance or I will not fit through the car wash.

This is going to sound absolutely insane, but the reason for the measurment request is... I am a fanatic about driving a clean car. But, time isn't always on my side. So, I frequent a specific car wash in the area. I must have at least 4-5/8" clearance or I will not fit through the car wash.

I won't be able to measure it for a couple of days. My car is parked outside and it's starting to rain down here in SoCal (weatherman says were going to get rain for a couple of days). Plus I go back to work tomorrow.

*SoCal...can you hook him up?

Ng

This is going to sound absolutely insane, but the reason for the measurment request is... I am a fanatic about driving a clean car. But, time isn't always on my side. So, I frequent a specific car wash in the area. I must have at least 4-5/8" clearance or I will not fit through the car wash.

Sure, no prob. I just measured; it's 5-inches dead even from the ground to the botton of the valance. *This is with the Gold-Line springs. Before adding the sidepipes, I had 5-1/2 inches of clearance on each side from the bottom of the running boards to the deck. You should be good to go - but I would still "ease up" to the car wash apparatus.

CAR WASH? :eek: You guys are brutal on your HHR's!!! :mad:

Sure, no prob. I just measured; it's 5-inches dead even from the ground to the botton of the valance. *This is with the Gold-Line springs. Before adding the sidepipes, I had 5-1/2 inches of clearance on each side from the bottom of the running boards to the deck. You should be good to go - but I would still "ease up" to the car wash apparatus.

CAR WASH? :eek: You guys are brutal on your HHR's!!! :mad:

Unfortunately, some of us have to deal with snow and states that love salt..hence car washes that do the undercarriage...of course it did get into the 40's there in SoCal... and some hail? Yes, it is brutal in more ways than one...and it leaves no choice sometimes... :p:

...of course it did get into the 40's there in SoCal... :p:

Try 20's. Two days last week I had frost on my lawns (both front & back)...and I live an hour north of San Diego! I use my pressure washer for the undercarriages...but those brushes at the Car Wash are BRUTAL!

Don't let Steve the Microfiber Man find out about this... :eek:

I live near San Francisco so snow is not an issue. For me it's a time thing. I just don't have the time to wash the car (as often as I would like). It is far easier for me to go to the car wash twice a week and let them handle it. I am in and out in a resonable amount of time. This leaves me with time to do the things I would rather be doing when I am not at work.

Family, girls, riding my motorcycles, playing golf, etc. Not necessarily in that order ;)

As for the clearance, I just measured 4.5" on mine. That's w/ Gold-Lines.

You have different wheel/tires Joe. Mine was just measured with 16" alloys and 215/55R-16 tires. 5-inches flat.

The 1st measurement was taken quickly on a crown. Sorry. Make that 4-3/4 on a flat surface.

My 18's are the same dia. as the stock tires, 16 or 17, so no difference there.

My 18's are the same dia. as the stock tires, 16 or 17, so no difference there.

There is a slight difference. Even plus sized tires are not completely accurate - but close.

OK, Mike, my 235/40-18's are 25.4 in. dia. The stock size in eithier the 16" or 17" are measured at 25.5 "dia.

So, tell me.... where is the difference???

Not a whole hell of a lot. ;)

Those are "published" specs. To get an actual measuremant you need to have two tires off the car, mounted and filled with air - 1, 16" Alloy and 1 of yours. Off the car and unweighted, you would measure the total height of each and come up with your answer. Tires never measure what the printed specs say.

Yep, sometimes there are minor differences. Don't forget wear, also!

Excellent How too Post. :thumb:

And talk about perfect timing. I got my springs last night and just finished installing them. I went with the Spring Tech 's 1.5"- 1.75" lowering kit. A 2.5" drop just wouldn't work with our winters. Install only took about 2 hours and no ABS brakes means no electrical connectors to worry about. The ride is noticable firmer. Had about 1.5" drop front and rear. The backs still a little high... I guess I could haul around some fat chicks. Ground clearance is at least 4.5" at all points or the height of a beer can. Those Coors Light cans could be a problem though.

Off to get some new wheels and tires. :beer:

Later Chris

http://www.hotboat.com/image_center/data/520/679Loweredhhr.JPG

Good to know that my install thread helped. BTW, your post is pretty funny. Feel free to add any notes about the install. I think the job will get easier for others as we keep passing hints on how to do the spring install.

Ng

A 2.5" drop just wouldn't work with our winters.

Just a note; there is no "2.5" drop" spring kit. Gold-Line currently makes the largest drop, and the drop measures out at:

1.80" Front
2.125" Rear (2.125" = 2-1/8")

Also, Gold-Line's kit was tested to drop the HHR level front and rear.
(It get's rid of the stock "stink bug" look.)

Just wanted to clear this up for others who haven't purchased yet. :thumb:

(It get's rid of the stock "stink bug" look.)



Stick bug That sounds like something I should take offence to...if I knew what one was. :D Don't have them up here.

Actually I kinda like it raked. Gives it that "I just added a big block to my 70's muscle car" look. I suppose I'm really going to get roasted if I put wider tires on the back.

I guess it depends on you age and location. ;)

A "stink bug" is a large black beetle in the Southwest that walks around with it's "hiney" up in the air. When provoked, it emits a foul stench to ward of potential atackers. The term wasn't meant to be offensive, it's just that most cars come from the factory with the rears higher than the fronts (for many reasons). When lowering cars for an improvement in handling, it is usually preferrable to lower the car so it is even all the way around.

Hey, if you like yours "up in back" - more power to ya (that's what the big-block is for, right?).

Talking about big blocks... could someone help me with fitting this into the HHR...? :bow:

http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/perfparts/images/parts/large/12498793_large.jpg
Horsepower 620 @ 5500 RPM
Torque 650 Ft. Lbs. @ 4500 RPM

Not a problem:

http://www.hhrclub.org/galleries/hhr-custom-by-unique-performance/resized_hhr-custom-by-unique-performance_23.jpg

Not a problem:

http://www.hhrclub.org/galleries/hhr-custom-by-unique-performance/resized_hhr-custom-by-unique-performance_23.jpg

I'll take one...sign me up/

Let me give you an account number to transfer the funds too... :D

Let me give you an account number to transfer the funds too... :D

Waiting :D

WOW I want that too

just wanted to say thanks for the write up, i just used it to do mine step by step went without a hitch .... thanks

just wanted to say thanks for the write up, i just used it to do mine step by step went without a hitch .... thanks

Not a problem...Now lets see some pix... :beer:

Ng

Not a problem...Now lets see some pix... :beer:

Ng

im getting my 20"s put on tomorrow ill get some then :beer:

im getting my 20"s put on tomorrow ill get some then :beer:

20's :eek: ...Me like very much...Can't wait to check them out!

BTW...This should do it! This should be my 200th Post!...Yeah BABY!!! :beer:
Ng

hopefully I will be using this how-to this weekend.I feel like I've been waiting forever..

hopefully I will be using this how-to this weekend.I feel like I've been waiting forever..

Looking forward to seeing your ride slammed Skate...

Ng

if i may make a suggestion,

the one thing you left out that kinda held me up is when u take the front strut apart, the two top pieces (above the spring) will become un aligned, it would make it easy to mark with a grease pencil or piece of tape before disassembling the strut

;)

http://www.boomspeed.com/crowbar76/Springs022.jpg

Looking forward to seeing your ride slammed Skate...

Ng

Thanks! Your not the only one...I'm sure I'll be taking plenty of pictures.

if i may make a suggestion,

the one thing you left out that kinda held me up is when u take the front strut apart, the two top pieces (above the spring) will become un aligned, it would make it easy to mark with a grease pencil or piece of tape before disassembling the strut

;)

http://www.boomspeed.com/crowbar76/Springs022.jpg

You know - those things are junk anyway. While you have them off, just replace them with these:

http://img.alibaba.com/photo/10874443/Storm_Door_Closer.jpg

Available at any hardware store (look in the screen door area). :thumb:

Hahha funny Mike, Yep they put a big block in a cuple HHRs on TLCs Rides!

if i may make a suggestion,

the one thing you left out that kinda held me up is when u take the front strut apart, the two top pieces (above the spring) will become un aligned, it would make it easy to mark with a grease pencil or piece of tape before disassembling the strut

;)

http://www.boomspeed.com/crowbar76/Springs022.jpg

This is exactly what I would like to see. If you have a tip for making the job easier for the next guy/gal, you're more than welcomed to make a post. Although it's too late for me, tips like these will make the job quicker and easier for those who are going to do it.

Ng

You know - those things are junk anyway. While you have them off, just replace them with these:

http://img.alibaba.com/photo/10874443/Storm_Door_Closer.jpg

Available at any hardware store (look in the screen door area). :thumb:


i have those on my tail gate :D

Mine are making a funny "hissing" noise - are yours?

Mine are making a funny "hissing" noise - are yours?

Warning...Thread Hijack Alert!...Potential for thread hijacking post found!!! :D

Ha! http://www.hhrclub.org/gforum/images/rofl.gif

I just tracked my springs and they will be here tomorrow so hopefully I'll be sitting a couple inches lower by the end of the weekend...WooHoo

Hey NG
Your How-to was perfect.Everything went down without a hitch.Well except for the fact the first spring compressor I bought from Harbour Freight stripped so I had to get another one to put the last Goldline on but everything else was like butter..

I'm gonna give her a bath and take some pictures to post later today..

Thanks again.I am so faux king happy with the look..Next step a new muffler and tip..

LS on Goldlines

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/1/3/624small.jpg
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/1/3/625small.jpg

Good job STG! :thumb: :thumb:

Good job STG! :thumb: :thumb:
Thanks JD..It only took a couple of friends and a 12 pack.

Thanks JD..It only took a couple of friends and a 12 pack.
LOL :D It's amazing what kinda "motivation" can come from a 12pk of brewsky's! :beer:
(provided the 12pk comes at the end of job... as incentive!) :D

Thanks JD..It only took a couple of friends and a 12 pack.

Yup, most anything can be accomplished with a few friends and a case. ;) Because 12 isn't enough. :beer:

well I bought a 12pk of bud and my buddy brought a 6pk of heineken so we did ok..

Everyone here seems to be using the Gold-Line spring set, has anyone used the Eibach. And if not, how come? One other question, does anyone have an estimate on how much it would be to have it done at a shop. I don't have the time/tools/patience to it myself. Plus, my apt. lease won't allow me to do any car work in the parking lot.

LS on Goldlines

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/1/3/624small.jpg
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/1/3/625small.jpg

The ride is lookin good Skate! Aren't you glad that your HHR doesn't look like a monster truck now :D Good job bro...

Ng

Everyone here seems to be using the Gold-Line spring set, has anyone used the Eibach. And if not, how come? One other question, does anyone have an estimate on how much it would be to have it done at a shop. I don't have the time/tools/patience to it myself. Plus, my apt. lease won't allow me to do any car work in the parking lot.



The Goldlines offer the biggest drop plus lowered the rear more than the front to even everything out..

The ride is lookin good Skate! Aren't you glad that your HHR doesn't look like a monster truck now :D Good job bro...

Ng


Thanks NG
I couldn't have done it without you..

Everyone here seems to be using the Gold-Line spring set, has anyone used the Eibach. And if not, how come? One other question, does anyone have an estimate on how much it would be to have it done at a shop. I don't have the time/tools/patience to it myself. Plus, my apt. lease won't allow me to do any car work in the parking lot.

Eibach released their spring first - but they simply re-branded the Cobalt springs and the rates were all wrong for the HHR. Those who tried tham reported problems with rear end sag and bounce. Eibach says they're changing the springs but to date, they still have the same part # as the Cobalts on their site.

Gold-line's are the way to go as they took their time and did it right - making several sets of springs at different rates for testing. Craig at Gold-Line is a great guy and understands the importance of getting a smooth ride in a lowered car. Their springs ride smoother than ANY lowered car I've had or ridden in (I'm sure several lowered veterans here can back me up on this).

Regarding pricing and warranty: Gold-Line offers a "Million Mile" warranty against sagging and spring failure, which to me - is just as good as Eibach's "Lifetime' warranty. Price-wise Gold-Line has Eibach beat hands down. Save the extra $$ for some other mods. We can sell any brand springs we care to - but for the HHR, I won't touch Eibach's.

Oh, and did I mention that the Gold-Line springs do a perfect job of "levelling" the HHR front to back? Very nice!

Labor prices for lowering will vary from shop to shop. I have a shop here I work with locally that charges $120 for the job, and it is done in about an hour. I also go to the appointment and supervise the job. Until we have our own facility, this saves me a bundle on overhead and insurance.

Call around to a few local shops that specialize in lowering. Tell them it's an easy job (1 to 1-1/2 hours), that has struts in front and coils/trailing arms in back. $120 is a fair price- don't go much higher. If you buy from us I can call or email your shop with details to make the install easier.

Hope it helps,

Awesome info. That's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks.

OK, I'm back with a couple more question. Do you need the frony camber and rear shim kits? I wanna find out before I order them, that way everything will get here at the same time.

Front Camber = yes. You will have to have it in there to do an alignment later on.
Rear shims: no. Most of the guys who bought these have not had to use them, so I'm no longer recommending them at the time of the sale. If you happened to need one later on (50-60k miles), you know where to get them...

Hope it helps,

Holy crap i just realized I didn't install the camber kit on the front..I'm not even sure I know where it goes..

The Camber Bolts were supposed to be installed during the drop.
They are adjustable bolts that mount in the upper of the two lower strut bolts. Any alignment shop can install them - but they will charge you $$$, as the wheel and strut bolts must be removed. Maybe you'll get off lucky and it will be cheap.

Make SURE you put 100-150 miles on your HHR before doing the alignment so the springs and rubber have a chance to seat properly. Also - have them check the alignment before doing anything - there is a 1>100 chance that all you will need is to set the toe.

Please shoot us a pic or two of your lowered HHR for our web page when you have time! :thumb:

I had my vehicle aligned after a week of driving and over 300+ miles. The alignment shop didn't use either the rear shim kits or the camber kit. They did adjust the toe. So don't stress that you didn't install or buy the camber kit. Your alignment shop most likely won't need it. I have yet to hear from someone who installed Goldlines and needed their camber adjusted.

Ng

Well I guess I will just hold on to them incase I need them in the future..

My front camber was exactly on spec. on both sides after installing the Gold-Lines and putting some miles on.

I bought mine from Darkside Motoring and Erich said that no camber adjustment was needed and he was correct.

The only reason any adjustment would be needed is if something was knocked out of whack. The adjusting bolts can easily be installed later if needed.

Looked at the check-book, there was enough get a set of springs and just cover the rent payment (you see where my priorities are). I now have a new toy to look forward to. If the shipping time on the springs is the same as the antenna, I should be able to get them installed this coming weekend... can hardly wait that long.

They will ship out tomorrow morning. If UPS is "on time" you should have them by the weekend! :thumb:

If you lower the front you will need a camber kit or slot the top strut hole. If the shop aligned your front without a camber kit they proabably slotted the strut hole or they didn't get it to spec. It just boils down to simple geometry. I had to take mine to 4 different shops before I found one that could align it and they had to use a non laser manual setup. No one on my area had or could get their machines updated for the HHRs. Has any come across someone that actually had the HHR in their machine?

The HHR has a faily wide camber spec and mine was still out with a 1.5" drop. Driving from shop to shop after you lowered your HHR is all that bad, but if you're strapped for time you might want to make a few phone calls before heading out.

Looked at the check-book, there was enough get a set of springs and just cover the rent payment (you see where my priorities are). I now have a new toy to look forward to. If the shipping time on the springs is the same as the antenna, I should be able to get them installed this coming weekend... can hardly wait that long.


I believe its 5 days for ups ground to the east coast from the west coast so either you need to get Saturday delivery or better yet just pay for 3 day select.I order skateboards and what not from CA all the time and if it shipped Monday I have it by Friday.

If you lower the front you will need a camber kit or slot the top strut hole. If the shop aligned your front without a camber kit they proabably slotted the strut hole or they didn't get it to spec. It just boils down to simple geometry. I had to take mine to 4 different shops before I found one that could align it and they had to use a non laser manual setup. No one on my area had or could get their machines updated for the HHRs. Has any come across someone that actually had the HHR in their machine?

The HHR has a faily wide camber spec and mine was still out with a 1.5" drop. Driving from shop to shop after you lowered your HHR is all that bad, but if you're strapped for time you might want to make a few phone calls before heading out.

Just a FYI - we have the HHR alignment specs on our site HERE (http://www.socalhhr.citymax.com/alignment.html) - as most alignment machines in the U.S. haven't been updated to include the HHR yet.

Excellent post, very descriptive and answered my questions before I could ask them, so off I go to order Goldlines!!!

Yeah, I finally got my springs today. They would have been here yesterday but, since I had to work late nobody was home to sign for them from UPS. I now have a project for this weekend. Will posts pics after it's all done.

Ls on Goldlines with 20 8ft landscape timbers and no problem with dragging or rubbing.
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/1/3/DSC00805.png

Sweet thanks for the info STG

Anyone have torque spec's for strut mounting bolts (specifically for the front struts- top & bottom) - or is that part of the GoldLine kit as well???

Anyone have torque spec's for strut mounting bolts (specifically for the front struts- top & bottom) - or is that part of the GoldLine kit as well???

Not sure I understand your ? :confused: If you're talking about the mounting bolts, 3 top and two bottom, I used German torque :smile:

Ng

NG... yea, I'm referring to the strut bolt (that holds the coil onto the strut) as well as the 2 bolts that mount the strut to the suspension arm. If I recall my Mustang specs, the strut bots (mounting to the suspension arm) were torqued to like 100ft lbs !?!?!? or something crazy like that. :eek:
At the sake of sounding stupid... what's German torque ( :confused: )... isn't that just the metric equivalent?
Not sure if I'm gonna run Goldlines or wait for coilovers (however long that may be???). Hmmmm - sounds like another post!

German torque = Good'n'tight :lol:

We put the strut shaft nuts on with an impact (that's the best way to so it as the shaft spins). Good-n-tight works everytime!

Great thread. Thanks for the step by step directions. Just picked up Eibachs today. May try and install them over the weekend. Any So.Cal. people wanna help? LOL

Loved the pics and step by step:thumb: I installed mine today in about three hours and love it. Only thing I want to add is the two bolts running through the spindle and strut can be driven out with a air chisel if you own one. Worked great for mine--out in two seconds--and didn't mess up any threads by leaving the nut down at the end of the bolt!

Thanx fellas :thumb: I almost forgot about this thread...I think a sticky for this thread is long overdue...Mods???

Ng

Does someone have the SoCal alignment spec chart? I remember seeing it, but now that SoCal is gone, I'd like to get a copy.
Thanks.

http://chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9504&highlight=alignment



Use the search feature.. its your friend...

but now that SoCal is gone

Wrong thread I know, not trying to start gossip, but I apparently joined to late to know SoCAl, where did he go? Wasn't he a vendor at one point? If he apparently knew so much about the HHR why is he gone?

Wrong thread I know, not trying to start gossip, but I apparently joined to late to know SoCAl, where did he go? Wasn't he a vendor at one point? If he apparently knew so much about the HHR why is he gone?

Read about it here.....

GOODBYE SOCAL.... (http://chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7076)

Read about it here.....

GOODBYE SOCAL.... (http://chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7076)

Thanks again :D

Wouldn't it be easier to raise the front a bit? Then you would not have to worry about the bottom out as well

Only thing I want to add is the two bolts running through the spindle and strut can be driven out with a air chisel if you own one. Worked great for mine--out in two seconds--and didn't mess up any threads by leaving the nut down at the end of the bolt!
+1 :thumb:

Air chisel = better than hammer ;)

Sat. the Goldline springs so on with new wheels. Curly

NG8650, How do you like the ride now?

I put the Goldline springs on mine and Solstice wheels and I love it. The car rides soo much better smoother and corners better.
http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp217/airetexbruce/P3021082.jpg

http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp217/airetexbruce/P9191290.jpg
Thanks, Curly

Just an F.Y.I. for anyone adding lowering springs. An Air Hammer makes quick work of the two lower strut bolts. Just put the nut on backwards (Helps stop the hammer bit from wondering off the bolt), screw it down just shy of the end of the bolt and put the hammer bit on the bolt and hammer off. Takes about 2 seconds.

Pay attention to the orientation of the top spring cap when you remove it from the old spring. It is angled on one side. Don't do what I did. When I went to reinstall the new spring I put it on backward. I didn't figure that out till I did the other side. So I was awarded with the opportunity to do that side again.

Just an F.Y.I. for anyone adding lowering springs. An Air Hammer makes quick work of the two lower strut bolts. Just put the nut on backwards (Helps stop the hammer bit from wondering off the bolt), screw it down just shy of the end of the bolt and put the hammer bit on the bolt and hammer off. Takes about 2 seconds.

Pay attention to the orientation of the top spring cap when you remove it from the old spring. It is angled on one side. Don't do what I did. When I went to reinstall the new spring I put it on backward. I didn't figure that out till I did the other side. So I was awarded with the opportunity to do that side again.

What, No Pics?

We all love pictures :thumb:

im deff. jealous .... :)

Put my goldlines in today in about 2 hours and 45 min. Ill get a pic for you guys soon. My 09 panel only has 1000 miles on it now, and already changing parts :nuts:

Put my goldlines in today in about 2 hours and 45 min. Ill get a pic for you guys soon. My 09 panel only has 1000 miles on it now, and already changing parts :nuts:

congrats :thumb:

Also next Monday I'll take it to the alignment shop and let you know how much, if any, the alignment was out.
Ng

Does anyone know, Do you need an alignment after you install the lowering springs??
I would like to install mine before vacation but I don't think I will have time for an alignment, If I need an alignment the install will just have to wait.

yes you do need an alignment

So whats the ride like with the stock shocks/struts, with 1.75f, and 2.25b those babies are gonna blow soon. I heard that anything over 1.5 is bad for the car.

How is it going over speed bumps? I wanna lower my SS but that's my one worry.

So whats the ride like with the stock shocks/struts, with 1.75f, and 2.25b those babies are gonna blow soon. I heard that anything over 1.5 is bad for the car.

Many people are riding on lower springs and stock struts/shocks with no problems so far.

I'm liking the Progress springs kit!

I lowered mine 2 years ago with the Eibach pro-line kit and the stock shocks are doing great. Cornering is bit-chin! I also added a progress rear sway bar. I did not do an alignment and tire wear is purfect. 32000 miles and doing fine.

Not sure if its already been posted here, but here are the suspension torque specs:
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/5/0/3/6/susptorque1.jpg

Wow! That was a lot of good info, and thanks to everyone that participated with info. But now I have a question...who do I go to now for the goldline springs? Is there another as worthy as so.cal on this site? Please direct me in the right direction as I am fairly new to the site. Thanks for any info, this is a great place!

Somebody has a set of Goldlines for sale in the forum classified section.......

well done how-to. hot HHR. deff. going to lower the rear. as alot of HHR owners dont like the rake. that is after i install factory fogs.#@$%^#$

Nice job it looks good




n

I lowered mine 2 years ago with the Eibach pro-line kit and the stock shocks are doing great. Cornering is bit-chin! I also added a progress rear sway bar. I did not do an alignment and tire wear is purfect. 32000 miles and doing fine.

Car was totaled May 5, 2010.. Replaced with an SS. May lower it too

Good job bro.I'm sure I'll be refering back to this when I do mine.

:twothumbs:

I had forgotten to get back on here and thank you ng8650 for the big help on the drop..it went very well thanks to the pics and write up. Sure..I could have done it without the input but who's going to complain about any xtra help and shortcuts, took a lot of time off the process for sure. The ride is great, I love the fact that it really did not change anything other than having to watch a little more carefully about pulling up on curbs which pretty much had to be watched out for anyway, since coming from a 4x4. Thanks again!!

I have an 08 SS and was trying to replace my rear springs. But when I removed the both rear shocks and lowered both sides of the rear suspension, the springs are still under tension. Then I raised the rear suspension just lower than when the car would lift off of the jack stands, bolted together adjacent turns of the rear coil spring, then lowered both sides of the rear suspension and the springs are still under too much tension and too long to remove.

Has anyone else run into this problem?

Did you remember to remove the bolt holding on the brake line?

I did not remove the bolt/clips holding the brake lines because there didn't appear to be much distance to be gained. It also did not appear to be a slot for the lines + connections to slide out and free float. Actually it appears that the brake line would have to be disconnetced to get the rear suspension to move down far enough.

I don't have an SS, which means my springs are taller, removing that line bolt and swinging the brake line free of the bracket let mine swing down far enough...... I imagine the SS would be the same.

removing that line bolt and swinging the brake line free of the bracket let mine swing down far enough...... I imagine the SS would be the same.

Yes agreed. X 2, (note) the springs will be kinda stuck to their seats. I dropped my back axle till the springs just broke loose..

Try again, & even tho it may not seem advantageous to remove the 2 brake line 10mm nuts, try it & then lower away, You can even push down (if needed)..

your jacks aren't touching control arms are they....not letting them drop any further? Even with the brake lines still bolted up...I would think they would be loose enough.

I did not remove the bolt/clips holding the brake lines because there didn't appear to be much distance to be gained. It also did not appear to be a slot for the lines + connections to slide out and free float. Actually it appears that the brake line would have to be disconnetced to get the rear suspension to move down far enough.

Remove the rear brake line nut from both sides (10 mm). Move this bracket and brake line so you have room to push down on the lower arm without stretching the brake line.

Yeah what he said about the springs sticking..what may look like spring tension may actualy be spring stretch because they are stuck to the bump stop bottoms...had to pry the tops loose on mine.....if your pushing down and the axle springs back, your stuck...

Have you taken both back wheels off, I tried to do just one at a time but it did not give me enough room to get the spring out, took off the other side and with a little nudge the spring came right out.

I may be replacing my levelers with my complete goldline set today. I got my springs new but second hand with no paperwork. My question is how much do you trim from the bumpstops and is it the same amount front and rear? Also, and this may be a stupid one, which side is up on the springs?
Thanks

There is no need to trim the bump stops.

I installed the kit today and like it, though I think I was lied to about the GEN of my goldlines, or more likely the member I got then from just didn't know which they were.
They were supposed to be Gen 1, but the rears were pretty much identical to the levelers I removed to install these. I didn't bother measuring before and after, but the front dropped quite a bit and I love it, I just wish the rears would level out and meet the front. Did the Gen 2s leave it with a slight rake? Gen 1s lowered and leved correct?
here is a pic of the levelers I removed next to the (supposed) lowering rears.
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/3/2/9/8/levelvslower-rearsprings.jpg

Here is a pic of the car after the kit was installed, I know its filthy, but winter really isnt over here yet and I traveled alot Fri and Sat.
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/3/2/9/8/ftlowered.jpg

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/3/2/9/8/sidelowered.jpg

It looks more level in the pic than it does in person, maybe Im parked in a low spot.

I must say it rides nicer than stock ft, leveled rear and almost no body roll noticed when I took a few 15mph corners at 30 to 40mph on my test drive.

Apologies for the quality, but they are cell pics.

Can someone with a known gen 1 and gen 2 goldline kit post measurements from mid wheel to the front and rear fender so I can figure out what mine is please. Id also be interested in the leveler kits measurment. Thanks

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/3/2/9/8/levelvslower-rearsprings.jpg

You do see the left spring looks to be at least 1" shorter, don't ya ?

It looks that way in the pic but they were pretty much the same when I measured them, the lowering rears (on the right) do have almost a full extra coil compared to the levelers (left) but I was guessing the load rating was different so I put them in.
Here's a pic on level ground, its got a bit of stink bug to it for sure. Any suggestions?

http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/3/2/9/8/2011-04-18_18-51-19_217.jpg

It looks that way in the pic but they were pretty much the same when I measured them, the lowering rears (on the right) do have almost a full extra coil compared to the levelers (left) but I was guessing the load rating was different so I put them in.
Here's a pic on level ground, its got a bit of stink bug to it for sure. Any suggestions?

If the rear was lower on the "levelers" put them back in.. Front looks fine..

Based on Sleepers advice I went with the Cobalt SS/TC springs in the rear of my panel, and not only did it level it out..but I like the longer look it has now.
8989

The rear is a bit lower than with the levelers, I was just wishing it leveled and lowered. I though about the cobalt springs but read that they sag over time, forgot where I saw it at. Ill probably live with it for now and maybe buy another set of first gen goldlines if I find them for the right price. Not to mention I love the way it rides now and I plan on adding a rear sway bar soon anyway so I can mess with it later.
Id still like to see some measurements from mid wheel to fender to see if these were really first gen spring or not.

I got 14 from mid wheel to fender in front and 14.5 in the rear, any body else measure theres yet? What brand or Gen is your kit?

Based on Sleepers advice I went with the Cobalt SS/TC springs in the rear of my panel, and not only did it level it out..but I like the longer look it has now.
8989

speedwagen- That looks just right....:twothumbs:

And having my SS/TC springs in for over 1.6 yrs.. No Sag..

Thank you for the excellent pics and info:bow: