Audio and Video All audio, video, alarms, and all other electronics

Stereo

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-14-2008, 06:23 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
AllEyezOnMe's Avatar
 
Join Date: 07-26-2007
Location: Phillipsburg New Jersey
Posts: 136
Stereo

A couple questions--
I want to install 2 Kicker Solo-Baric L5 Subs in the cargo area of my ride. I don't use the radio or the CD Player because I have Sirius and an MP3 player. I don't want to replace the Stock radio due to that fact. Should I replace the stock speakers and tweeters in the HHR and what would you recommend? I understand that running Kicker Subs, that they are hungry for power so I need a good size amp. Would I need another battery to run all that power?
Each subs RMS is 300
AllEyezOnMe is offline  
Old 02-14-2008, 07:30 PM
  #2  
 
jss5891's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-08-2007
Location: Samson Alabama
Posts: 6
You should be ok as long as you get a decent 1000 watt or so amp.And the way the HHR is set up you can ground it directly to the battery the correct way and not to the frame like most people do. So you should have plenty of power with out stressing the alternator or flickering the lights.You can also use a rca converter to tap in to the speaker line to the woofer in the back the supply rcas to the amp without having to run any wires through the car.As far as for the stock speakers and tweeters you should be good as long as you adjust them correctly remove the base and turn the mids down and the highs up to match the bass in the back.
jss5891 is offline  
Old 02-15-2008, 07:31 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
hugheshhr's Avatar
 
Join Date: 12-21-2007
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 136
You could use the factory ground and have no problems. The easiest way to splice into the factory wiring is behind the radio using t-taps. You will also need some way to trigger the remote turn on in the amp, i.e. a toggle switch.
hugheshhr is offline  
Old 02-15-2008, 10:26 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
tahenke's Avatar
 
Join Date: 01-31-2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 143
You can save yourself a little money by purchasing an amp that has speaker level inputs. If you plan on using a bass enhancer like the epicenter or something like it make sure it has speaker level inputs. This way you can just run the left and right speaker wires straight into the equipment eliminating the need for a LOC. As far as the T-Taps are concerned I personally won't use them because I have this thing with messing with the integrity of the factory wiring. There are soo many adapters and stuff out there that you can usually get away without them. I would just get the adapters that connect into the door speaker plugs and converts them to 2 bare wires and then run them to the back into the amp and viola no cutting! You don't need the back speakers anyway but if you wanted some it is very easy to tap into the adapter. Sure it's extra work but you can turn your car back to factory very easily, and when you turn your fader to the rear it works the subs and when you turn it to the front it works the mids and highs so it adds some level of on the fly adjustability if you don't like the way it sounds with certain types of music. Like I said, it's a personal preference and it's more work but I think in the end it's worth it!
tahenke is offline  
Old 03-12-2008, 02:17 PM
  #5  
New Member
 
pipshhr's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-10-2008
Location: Spfd, MO
Posts: 14
Originally Posted by jss5891
You should be ok as long as you get a decent 1000 watt or so amp.And the way the HHR is set up you can ground it directly to the battery the correct way and not to the frame like most people do. So you should have plenty of power with out stressing the alternator or flickering the lights.You can also use a rca converter to tap in to the speaker line to the woofer in the back the supply rcas to the amp without having to run any wires through the car.As far as for the stock speakers and tweeters you should be good as long as you adjust them correctly remove the base and turn the mids down and the highs up to match the bass in the back.
JSS5891 - What do you mean "ground it directly to the battery the correct way and not to the frame like most people do". Why is that not correct. Your battery is connected to the frame of your vehicle, so it is the ground. In electronics you want your ground to be two things

1) You want your ground to be secure, meaning you can not move or twist your terminal.

2) you want your ground to be as close to your amp as possible.

One of the best things you can do is go to your local stereo shop, purchase a 4 guage wire and create a secure ground from your neg terminal to your chassis. I know the grounding wire kits have came on big the last couple of years and a lot of people laughed, but electronics with secure grounds and grounds that can handle the flow of electricity matter.

If you really want to know ( and some electronics guru's might disagree ) but current flows ( voltage drops ) from neg to positive so having an ample ground to support it matters.
pipshhr is offline  
Old 03-12-2008, 09:18 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
tahenke's Avatar
 
Join Date: 01-31-2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 143
Originally Posted by pipshhr
If you really want to know ( and some electronics guru's might disagree ) but current flows ( voltage drops ) from neg to positive so having an ample ground to support it matters.
This is very true
tahenke is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Rogoflap
Audio and Video
12
05-14-2010 02:03 PM
Dredd9799
Audio and Video
3
05-30-2007 10:21 AM
PerezHHR
Audio and Video
3
05-09-2007 12:04 PM
kap_x
Audio and Video
3
06-29-2006 05:24 PM



Quick Reply: Stereo



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:01 AM.