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Cryogenically treated rotors

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Old 07-03-2015, 05:04 PM
  #21  
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Proper torque of the lug nuts is also crucial, 100 ft lbs and no air wrenchs when tightening.
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Old 07-03-2015, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
Proper torque of the lug nuts is also crucial, 100 ft lbs and no air wrenchs when tightening.
Don't you hate rotating your tires after someone used a torquestick?
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Old 07-04-2015, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by donbrew
2 different things! Does the pedal physically move? If you checked the runout on the hubs did you check the runout on the rotors?

There are a few long discussions about rotor warp and the "bedding" of pads. Way too many for me to list here. Give the SEARCH a shot, try different search phrases.
Pedal physically moves.Runout on rotors .004.And yes bedding of new pads always done as per manufacturer.
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:59 AM
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According to Mitchell:
Maximun allowable assembled lateral runout
0.06 mm (0.002 in)

Brake rotor maximum allowable thickness variation
0.025 mm (0.001 in)

Brake rotor assebled LRO exceeding the maximum allowable spec. can cause thickness variation to develop in the brake rotor over time, usually between 4,800-11,300 km (3,00-7,00mi).
There are shims made to adjust the LRO.

I assume that you have used a wire brush to get rid of rust on the hubs each time the rotors are removed.

You need to spend real money on thicker rotors.

Since you are having this problem repeatedly and at low mileage, it must be either rotor quality or driving habits.

Sorry, That's all I got.
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Old 07-04-2015, 01:36 PM
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Don't know Don, I've always done the tires myself, I even take the set into the tire shop have them install and balance the new tires then take them home to install!
For the money change up to 11.65 inch SS non Brembo rotors and caliper brackets!
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Old 07-04-2015, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
Don't know Don, I've always done the tires myself, I even take the set into the tire shop have them install and balance the new tires then take them home to install!
For the money change up to 11.65 inch SS non Brembo rotors and caliper brackets!
It"s a non brembo SS already!
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Old 07-04-2015, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by donbrew
According to Mitchell:


There are shims made to adjust the LRO.

I assume that you have used a wire brush to get rid of rust on the hubs each time the rotors are removed.

You need to spend real money on thicker rotors.

Since you are having this problem repeatedly and at low mileage, it must be either rotor quality or driving habits.

Sorry, That's all I got.
Thicker rotors? Who makes them?
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Old 07-04-2015, 05:57 PM
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crossdrilledrotors.com give their site a look! I have their Premium rotors, never saw the advantage of drilled or slotted rotor.
I've had them approximately 35,000 miles and no judder or pedal shake!
Attached Thumbnails Cryogenically treated rotors-hhr-ss-brakes-003.jpg   Cryogenically treated rotors-hhr-ss-brakes-005.jpg  
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
crossdrilledrotors.com give their site a look! I have their Premium rotors, never saw the advantage of drilled or slotted rotor.
I've had them approximately 35,000 miles and no judder or pedal shake!
And this is a thicker rotor?
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:14 PM
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Oldblue and the other knowledgeable brake people........

Can you have thicker rotors with the stock pads and associated apparatus?

Thinking about this, yeah you could, but probably not overall thickness. It still needs to "clear" the dimensions between the pads. Could probably have thicker outside/inside walls of the rotor but that would minimize the size of the interior cooling fins. Thus the calipers and related parts would also need to be changed?

Am I thinking correctly here??? Just asking because I am a little confused by the question related to this.
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