Kookie

The bolt is definitely out of the threads. I can wiggle it ever so slightly. Banged on it all day and with a fork, sledge hammer, and torch. No go. Lite it more on fire, that rubber is nasty. I may use the die grinder idea, but I may be able to get a sawzall in there. Took the swaybar linkage off so I can move that for more room. They were shot anyway. Had to cut those nuts off too. IDK, very very frustrated and I need the car tomorrow and that ain't happenin'. Also this is getting costly. I'm hating that HHR right now. Will let ya' know.

donbrew

Have you been able to get some PB B'laster in there? The big truck mechanics swear by it for breaking rust.

Kookie

PB Blaster is most definitely my preferred penetrator for years. (The best aside from some of my high end penetrating oils - Kroll - I use for gunsmithing.) Actually ran out in the end. On the list to replenish the stock on my visit to the store to P/U the swaybar links.

We had a cruel last winter here in Detroit. Lots of salt for all that snow. Really made a mess of things including the extremely rough roads which is the cause for the beat up suspension parts to boot. The city spent so much $ on road clearing they had no $ for road repairs. Screwed my parts up left and right. Salt and potholes. :grrr:

whopper

I was thinking about the situation you are in - are you absolutely positive you have the bolt unscrewed all the way? I was thinking that there should be a whole lot more distance between the shoulder of the bolt and the subframe if it is unscrewed all the way.

That bolt is a bit of a sloppy fit when loosened - it has that funny taper at the very end that helps center it on reinstallation.

It just seems to me from when I did mine, that that it still has a long way to untread it.

firemangeorge

Just thinking here...
The captive nut that the bolt screws into. Is it just one of those tack welded into place pieces ?
Any chance the bolt unscrewed part ways and then the captive nut broke free from it's weld ? It would then spin free and the bolt would appear to be clear of the threads even though the nut was still attached.

Kookie

Well there is a way, don't ask me how for it would be strange instructions, to get your hand up and in to feel the top nut. The nut is secure and can feel the bolt back out of it. (I can turn the bolt while feeling that top nut.) I compared it to the other side and I am quite confident the bolt is backed out of the threaded area, although there might be a half thread in because of the strange make up of that bolt. It is cut on an angle at the top of the bolt. I thought that might be because of some assembly procedure, but the replacement bolt from the dealer is the same make up. Regardless, with most of the rubber burned out, I can surely feel it is out. Now its time for me to walk up to HomePeephole to get a sawzall. I think its my best bet. If only I had replaced the battery in my 88' Suburban and put plates on it.

Kookie

That deserved three 's

whopper

I feel your pain man. Good luck with that sawzall.

redridehhr

I agree with 07. If that bolt is fully backed out, that looks like only a couple of threads hold that bolt in. Not very many for a suspension bolt.

Kookie

Well, this may have turned to be a 'how to' - 'remove a completely fused/ rusted lower control arm frame bolt' I guess. Used a sawzall with a 9" blade.

Cut the top:



Cut the bottom:



The bolt and bushing:



Yeah, Its way fused:



Suppose I had all that room from burning some of that rubber away from trying to heat it.

Thank for everyones inputs. Helped me deal with this nightmare.