Sway bar hits lower control arm?
09-02-2014, 10:25 AM
#21
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Guess I should have said more than usual. I just don't understrand why the springs would cause a problem. As was stated earlier, they don't really change the geometry of the suspension, they just make the body sit lower. But I definitely did not have this problem before the springs.
09-02-2014, 11:26 AM
#23
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Guess I should have said more than usual. I just don't understrand why the springs would cause a problem. As was stated earlier, they don't really change the geometry of the suspension, they just make the body sit lower. But I definitely did not have this problem before the springs.
Lowering springs being shorter, just put the suspension "travel" in a compressed state. Not really sure how to word this, but if you lower the body so to speak, then you lowered the A-arm attachment point to the body. The other end with the knuckle, ball joint and such will be at the original height because the wheels/tires are still the same height.
Therefore, the A-arm resting angle will change.
Whew! That's enough. Now I've got aheadache.
09-02-2014, 11:38 AM
#25
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Oldblue. You may be correct on that one.
My reason for talking to Frenchy about the A-arm is because I feel like he's incorrect on his suspension theories. Just trying to help the man out with a little extra info.
My reason for talking to Frenchy about the A-arm is because I feel like he's incorrect on his suspension theories. Just trying to help the man out with a little extra info.
09-02-2014, 11:39 AM
#26
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Nope, that's not exactly correct. It will change the resting position of the A-arm angle.
Lowering springs being shorter, just put the suspension "travel" in a compressed state. Not really sure how to word this, but if you lower the body so to speak, then you lowered the A-arm attachment point to the body. The other end with the knuckle, ball joint and such will be at the original height because the wheels/tires are still the same height.
Therefore, the A-arm resting angle will change.
Whew! That's enough. Now I've got aheadache.
Lowering springs being shorter, just put the suspension "travel" in a compressed state. Not really sure how to word this, but if you lower the body so to speak, then you lowered the A-arm attachment point to the body. The other end with the knuckle, ball joint and such will be at the original height because the wheels/tires are still the same height.
Therefore, the A-arm resting angle will change.
Whew! That's enough. Now I've got aheadache.
Odlblue, how exactly would I go about accomplishing this? Still pretty new to the intricate workings of suspension.
09-02-2014, 12:03 PM
#27
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loosen the bolts that hold down the sway bar bushing and slide in U shaped shim, like used for front end alignments or fender alignments should be available at Autozone or any other parts house, this will lift up the sway bar to clear the LCA, and George, you are spot on for the angle change of the LCA pivot point when the lowering springs are installed the body drops down the LCA body pivot points drop down also, and the wheel and ball joint end remains the same causing this little contact problem!!
09-02-2014, 01:18 PM
#29
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loosen the bolts that hold down the sway bar bushing and slide in U shaped shim, like used for front end alignments or fender alignments should be available at Autozone or any other parts house, this will lift up the sway bar to clear the LCA, and George, you are spot on for the angle change of the LCA pivot point when the lowering springs are installed the body drops down the LCA body pivot points drop down also, and the wheel and ball joint end remains the same causing this little contact problem!!
09-02-2014, 11:21 PM
#30
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Join Date: 12-06-2013
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Found some universal body shims at Autozone. Managed to get a couple installed with the help of my neighbor. Was able to squeeze a 1/8" and 1/16" in each side, for a total of 3/16". Took it around the block and it seems to have helped a tad, but there is still a definite clunk. I have ordered some Energy suspension Polyurethane bushings that should be here either Thursday or Friday. Hopefully those will make a huge difference and eliminate the clunk. The current rubber bushings are 5 years old and have almost 100k miles, so they are pretty much shot. There does appear to be more play in the passenger bushing, which is where the sound is coming from.