fonemann

2010 LS

Lately the remote does not want to work, I have tried Both remotes, one will only work ( long time holding open button), both have new batteries, Please help

Also, where is the reciever located on the car


Thanks a million
Rick

SS fan

Welcome to the site fonemann. Lots of folk have had problems with the remotes, seems like it is usually the bracket that holds the battery breaks loose, some have re soldered it. I have just bought more of them on the forum, so when they stop I just break out another one.

LawDog88

Welcome fonemann! I would crack them open and clean the contact pads inside..

fastsuv

I have had two different problems with the remotes.

The first was the battery contact breaking loose at the solder joint to the circuit board. This was easy to fix with a soldering iron.

The other problem is the rubber (silicone) keypad. Each of the lock, unlock, and panic buttons have a raised boss sticking up on the inner side with a conducting material applied to its tip. This shorts across contacts on the circuit board to activate the function. The conductive material on the HHR remotes is poorly applied or designed and wears off. As it wears off, it becomes more and more intermittent. The way to check if its the contact is to see if it acts the same for the lock and unlock buttons. If both buttons work equally poorly, its probably not the buttons (odds are that both wouldn't fail at the same time). My unlock button stopped working but it would lock fine.

I fixed my buttons with a small circle of copper foil glued to the keypad with RTV. This seems to work for a long time until one of them finally fall off and I glue on a new copper contact.

Steve

fonemann

I have tried all "fixes" and the remote with new batteries does not work, one remote is brand new, does anybody know where the reciever is for the remote? maybe it needs replacing? This condition slowly started till it was completely non operational

Thanks again!
Rick

2010 1Ls, 43,000mi

BlackknighT

There are 3 tabs on the battery hold down. If you don't look through a magnifying glass at the joints it may look fine but there could be cracks. There has been an issue with these due to "cold" solder joints. I used to deal with bad electronics all the time and fix them based on re-soldering bad joints. I still have my 29 inch RCA from when I got married 21 years ago-the only thing that ever happened to it was bad solder joints at the power supply.

One of the amateur trick I use with others Fobs before I fix them is fold a small peice of paper and place it between the battery and Fob case. 10 out of 10 times for me it works because the paper forces the battery & holder to push against the circuit board.

I also have to confess the last time I went to the dealer I was too lazy to do my own and had them give me another just under my expiring Bumper to Bumper.

BlackknighT

Just pulled apart the new fob I got -battery terminal is straight and the joints are properly done and shiny, not that brushed aluminum cast look of the "cold" solder jointed bad ones.