Muffler Problem(Actually smoking excessively after an oil change)
10-06-2015, 06:21 PM
#1
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Join Date: 10-06-2015
Location: Adelanto
Posts: 2
Muffler Problem(Actually smoking excessively after an oil change)
After oil change muffler is blowing out black smoke
Last edited by 843de; 10-07-2015 at 11:40 PM. Reason: More descriptive thread title....
10-06-2015, 07:55 PM
#2
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Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,458
That wouldn't be a muffler issue but an oil burning issue, any problems before the oil change?
Did you switch this oil change to a different viscosity oil or to synthetic oil?
Which engine
How many miles
Any codes since the oil change
Have you pulled the plugs to read them for oil burning?
A lot of questions but we're going figure this out!
My neighbors Genesis burned oil after her last oil change, she came over and asked me to have a look!
Gee the three extra quarts in the pan didn't help much!
But hey she is a looker and the oil change guy was a looking but not at how much oil he dumped in!
I drained the oil out into a clean pan and poured the oil back into the engine to the correct level, no more black smoke or soot!
Did you switch this oil change to a different viscosity oil or to synthetic oil?
Which engine
How many miles
Any codes since the oil change
Have you pulled the plugs to read them for oil burning?
A lot of questions but we're going figure this out!
My neighbors Genesis burned oil after her last oil change, she came over and asked me to have a look!
Gee the three extra quarts in the pan didn't help much!
But hey she is a looker and the oil change guy was a looking but not at how much oil he dumped in!
I drained the oil out into a clean pan and poured the oil back into the engine to the correct level, no more black smoke or soot!
10-07-2015, 01:16 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: 10-06-2015
Location: Adelanto
Posts: 2
Yes
That wouldn't be a muffler issue but an oil burning issue, any problems before the oil change?
Did you switch this oil change to a different viscosity oil or to synthetic oil?
Which engine
How many miles
Any codes since the oil change
Have you pulled the plugs to read them for oil burning?
A lot of questions but we're going figure this out!
My neighbors Genesis burned oil after her last oil change, she came over and asked me to have a look!
Gee the three extra quarts in the pan didn't help much!
But hey she is a looker and the oil change guy was a looking but not at how much oil he dumped in!
I drained the oil out into a clean pan and poured the oil back into the engine to the correct level, no more black smoke or soot!
Did you switch this oil change to a different viscosity oil or to synthetic oil?
Which engine
How many miles
Any codes since the oil change
Have you pulled the plugs to read them for oil burning?
A lot of questions but we're going figure this out!
My neighbors Genesis burned oil after her last oil change, she came over and asked me to have a look!
Gee the three extra quarts in the pan didn't help much!
But hey she is a looker and the oil change guy was a looking but not at how much oil he dumped in!
I drained the oil out into a clean pan and poured the oil back into the engine to the correct level, no more black smoke or soot!
10-07-2015, 01:27 PM
#4
Platinum Member
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,032
Providing answers to the rest of Oldblues questions posted for you, would really help in diagnosing what is wrong.
and add to the list of questions:
- have you double-checked the oil level to make sure it was not overfilled (as Oldblue described)?
- exactly what make and viscosity of synthetic oil did you use?
and add to the list of questions:
- have you double-checked the oil level to make sure it was not overfilled (as Oldblue described)?
- exactly what make and viscosity of synthetic oil did you use?
10-07-2015, 01:42 PM
#5
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Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,458
This might just be as simple as drain the oil , change the filter and go back to 5w30 Dino oil, the synthetic is to thin and it could cause oil leaks and consumption as we are seeing out your tail pipe, I know it was a good attempt to protect your engine but some engines don't like synthetic , like my 2.2 2007, it was not designed for it and it doesn't like it.
I run Castrol 5W30 or Quaker State 5W30. I don't recommend the high milage oils as they have additives that swell seals and can cause piston ring problems and valve guide issues.
I run Castrol 5W30 or Quaker State 5W30. I don't recommend the high milage oils as they have additives that swell seals and can cause piston ring problems and valve guide issues.
10-07-2015, 06:38 PM
#7
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Join Date: 06-30-2010
Location: Kannapolis NC
Posts: 25,739
I'm guessing the OP tripped over their fingers and they really meant a 2011 model, but as stated above, we need more info KNOCCKOUT.
Without it, we're flying blind.
The engines on all model years of HHR production will run just fine on Full Synthetic motor oils Oldblue, as long as the proper viscosity is used, and the engine isn't at the end of its service life. Which can cause excessive "blow by" from worn or scored cylinder bores, and leaks from age related seal failure.
Synthetic oils, such as Mobil 1 are what engineers classify as "searching" liquids, so any leaks or wear related issues would be magnified.
Here's a "Bill Nye The Science Guy" experiment you can conduct if you're curious or bored, place regular motor oil in one shallow container, then place a Full Synthetic into another. Take two metal rulers and stand them in the oil, wait 24 hours, and the regular oil will not have moved, while the Full Synthetic will have climbed and coated the ruler. Neato, eh?
A good rule of thumb is to switch an engine to Full Synthetic in its youth, less than 12,000 miles or so. And to avoid going to Full Synthetic oils once the engine is past middle age, 75,000 miles or so as a rule.
Semi-Synthetic oils, like the Blended oils on the market seem to do fine regardless of engine mileage.
And one thing we might have all overlooked, the OP could have knocked the connector on the MAF sensor loose while tinkering under the hood, that's a guaranteed way to make any HHR throw a fit.
Without it, we're flying blind.
The engines on all model years of HHR production will run just fine on Full Synthetic motor oils Oldblue, as long as the proper viscosity is used, and the engine isn't at the end of its service life. Which can cause excessive "blow by" from worn or scored cylinder bores, and leaks from age related seal failure.
Synthetic oils, such as Mobil 1 are what engineers classify as "searching" liquids, so any leaks or wear related issues would be magnified.
Here's a "Bill Nye The Science Guy" experiment you can conduct if you're curious or bored, place regular motor oil in one shallow container, then place a Full Synthetic into another. Take two metal rulers and stand them in the oil, wait 24 hours, and the regular oil will not have moved, while the Full Synthetic will have climbed and coated the ruler. Neato, eh?
A good rule of thumb is to switch an engine to Full Synthetic in its youth, less than 12,000 miles or so. And to avoid going to Full Synthetic oils once the engine is past middle age, 75,000 miles or so as a rule.
Semi-Synthetic oils, like the Blended oils on the market seem to do fine regardless of engine mileage.
And one thing we might have all overlooked, the OP could have knocked the connector on the MAF sensor loose while tinkering under the hood, that's a guaranteed way to make any HHR throw a fit.
10-07-2015, 08:32 PM
#9
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Join Date: 03-12-2009
Location: Great Falls, MT
Posts: 114
10-07-2015, 10:16 PM
#10
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Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,458
Sorry for the confusion but if it is a 2011 then it is 4 years old and could have more than 12,000 miles, so my bad! But when I tried synthetic in mine at 34,000 miles I got black soot and residue out the tail pipe , blue smoke would be oil burn off but the residue would be black from the oil causing burnt fuel.
I'm just telling it from my experience
I'm just telling it from my experience