Starting RWD Conversion, Donor Car First
05-03-2016, 09:34 PM
#32
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 03-30-2015
Location: Portland Oegon
Posts: 58
donbrew,
True, too much wiring. But, the heater and radio will not be OEM and the original ABS will be swapped, plus the Auto trans controller and engine ECU will be deleted, BCM as well.. Prob more in there.
The amount of excess wiring, mostly from the BCM is embarrassing, very poor details in the design, IMHO..
But, I've done this before and I'm a retired Electronic Engineer with a good deal of automotive experience. But, the wiring can be a significant change for many builders, that's is certain,
Thanks !!
True, too much wiring. But, the heater and radio will not be OEM and the original ABS will be swapped, plus the Auto trans controller and engine ECU will be deleted, BCM as well.. Prob more in there.
The amount of excess wiring, mostly from the BCM is embarrassing, very poor details in the design, IMHO..
But, I've done this before and I'm a retired Electronic Engineer with a good deal of automotive experience. But, the wiring can be a significant change for many builders, that's is certain,
Thanks !!
05-04-2016, 07:22 AM
#33
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,665
I was thinking brake lights, have to convert them to old fashioned. I figured everything else would be fairly simple, but many of the switches are TTL with a 5V and low reference, like the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (not switch) and the Brake Position Sensor (not switch).
The Center High Mounted Stop Light is for sure directly connected to the BCM on a different circuit from the other brake lights. And the light itself is a sensor for a couple of functions in the BCM, cruise control for one.
I think the headlights and the door locks and the windows all connect to the BCM.
Their theory was to reduce wiring by having one semi-digital buss. It certainly reduces manufacturing costs by just plugging in 2-3 harnesses rather than 100s of separate wire connections.
The Center High Mounted Stop Light is for sure directly connected to the BCM on a different circuit from the other brake lights. And the light itself is a sensor for a couple of functions in the BCM, cruise control for one.
I think the headlights and the door locks and the windows all connect to the BCM.
Their theory was to reduce wiring by having one semi-digital buss. It certainly reduces manufacturing costs by just plugging in 2-3 harnesses rather than 100s of separate wire connections.
05-04-2016, 10:27 AM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-06-2010
Location: Riverside, California
Posts: 655
Great progress Michael. It looks really good. I especially like how you are doing the front suspension.
You mentioned not being able to use your stock HHR heater A/C. I'm assuming that's because the HHR heater coolant lines run right into the back of the center mounted engine block. At least that's what happened to me. Check out a Vintage Air Gen 2 Compac unit. It fits in the HHR dash ahead of the glove box and has outlets on the far right of the firewall.
Cliff
You mentioned not being able to use your stock HHR heater A/C. I'm assuming that's because the HHR heater coolant lines run right into the back of the center mounted engine block. At least that's what happened to me. Check out a Vintage Air Gen 2 Compac unit. It fits in the HHR dash ahead of the glove box and has outlets on the far right of the firewall.
Cliff
05-04-2016, 02:21 PM
#35
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 03-30-2015
Location: Portland Oegon
Posts: 58
Cliff,
If We set the engine where it is in the Photo, then with a new A/C refrigerant line (with a sharp right hook) and relocating the Solstice Oil Cooler to the front (which we were going to do anyways), - YES I can utilize the HHR heater / AC box, saves work and $$
But ,what I really want to do is move is back a few inches, get better Rack clearance ( not have o cut the aluminum oil pan) and move more engine weight to the rear. Then the heater / AC box goes away and We have to come up with a spark plug removal plan, like some of the old Heavy Metal cars of years back where one had to drill holes through a fender well.
And, That might work, IE drilling a hole through the cowl to just above the exact location to slip in a deep well spark plug socket and a very log extension. But ,hey,,, only need to change them evey 25 k miles or so... A large Rubber Plug will do.
Yes, I'm familiar with those after A/C market units. Did you get yours installed yet ??
I'm working over at a close friends on his '56 Bell Air Resto Mod, LS1 & auto, love these motors... We did a trial fit on his A/C system already, nice units.
And, you know that it doesn't get that HOT up here in the Portland area, usually. I didn't install AC in my '56 Chevy build -- BUT there has been two or three times that I wished I had !!
Thanks , and good luck with your wiring !!
Michael.....
If We set the engine where it is in the Photo, then with a new A/C refrigerant line (with a sharp right hook) and relocating the Solstice Oil Cooler to the front (which we were going to do anyways), - YES I can utilize the HHR heater / AC box, saves work and $$
But ,what I really want to do is move is back a few inches, get better Rack clearance ( not have o cut the aluminum oil pan) and move more engine weight to the rear. Then the heater / AC box goes away and We have to come up with a spark plug removal plan, like some of the old Heavy Metal cars of years back where one had to drill holes through a fender well.
And, That might work, IE drilling a hole through the cowl to just above the exact location to slip in a deep well spark plug socket and a very log extension. But ,hey,,, only need to change them evey 25 k miles or so... A large Rubber Plug will do.
Yes, I'm familiar with those after A/C market units. Did you get yours installed yet ??
I'm working over at a close friends on his '56 Bell Air Resto Mod, LS1 & auto, love these motors... We did a trial fit on his A/C system already, nice units.
And, you know that it doesn't get that HOT up here in the Portland area, usually. I didn't install AC in my '56 Chevy build -- BUT there has been two or three times that I wished I had !!
Thanks , and good luck with your wiring !!
Michael.....
05-21-2016, 03:07 PM
#38
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 03-30-2015
Location: Portland Oegon
Posts: 58
I'm still delayed on this project with the readying for the first concrete pour next week. I'm getting this concrete down prior to the Hot Sun, unlike last year...
However, here are few photos that might be of interest to some..
The first three are of the wiring bundle that route through the Firewall. Too many wires for me. I'm going to complete a total wire gutting and re-wire..
There are three separate bundles, two smaller and the monster .. The Engine and trany computers are in the engine bay, these wires are totally separate. I think that if G,M, wanted a fuse for nearly every lamp and circuit , then they should have placed the fuse box in the interior. Plus, the Body Control Module, also has fuses and relays. A bit of an overkill IMHO.
The next are of the air vent from the interior. It's just to the rear of the quarter panel. A nice Touch to vent stale air... There are three soft rubber flap on the outside that acts as the air check valve. The last photo is behind the wheel well, passenger side interior behind the plastic trim. I was quite surprised after I bought my D/D Red Panel that the fresh air into the HHR Cabin has an air filter, also a nice touch..
The last photo is Otis, the actual panel to be converted to RWD. It's a close friends prior company car, an Elevator service and repair company. When I have some spare time,, ha ha, during the forms for the concrete pour I'm still trying to get the cylinder walls cleaned up and get a new head gasket installed. It would be very nice to have Otis running and at least running to get it out of the way.. Never enough garage space...
However, here are few photos that might be of interest to some..
The first three are of the wiring bundle that route through the Firewall. Too many wires for me. I'm going to complete a total wire gutting and re-wire..
There are three separate bundles, two smaller and the monster .. The Engine and trany computers are in the engine bay, these wires are totally separate. I think that if G,M, wanted a fuse for nearly every lamp and circuit , then they should have placed the fuse box in the interior. Plus, the Body Control Module, also has fuses and relays. A bit of an overkill IMHO.
The next are of the air vent from the interior. It's just to the rear of the quarter panel. A nice Touch to vent stale air... There are three soft rubber flap on the outside that acts as the air check valve. The last photo is behind the wheel well, passenger side interior behind the plastic trim. I was quite surprised after I bought my D/D Red Panel that the fresh air into the HHR Cabin has an air filter, also a nice touch..
The last photo is Otis, the actual panel to be converted to RWD. It's a close friends prior company car, an Elevator service and repair company. When I have some spare time,, ha ha, during the forms for the concrete pour I'm still trying to get the cylinder walls cleaned up and get a new head gasket installed. It would be very nice to have Otis running and at least running to get it out of the way.. Never enough garage space...
09-26-2017, 06:57 PM
#40
Moderator
Join Date: 05-01-2014
Location: California
Posts: 7,789
Hi bsuds, 
to the forums!!
If you're building it to resell, then ask someone who would buy it.
If you're building it to keep, then you have to ask yourself.
But it is going to cost a small fortune...
Did you check the link in post #2?
to the forums!!If you're building it to resell, then ask someone who would buy it.
If you're building it to keep, then you have to ask yourself.
But it is going to cost a small fortune...
Did you check the link in post #2?