Towing small camper
10-01-2006, 12:12 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: 08-16-2006
Location: Krebs, OK
Posts: 134
http://www.golittleguy.com There was a mustang in the shop last week pulling one of these. They are around 600 lbs, $4000, and very nice.
10-01-2006, 01:22 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-30-2006
Location: Maryland Heights, MO
Posts: 9,149
Originally Posted by bdarby
Well according to DTV. The HHR is rated for 3500lbs towing capacity.
If that's what they are stating it is way over what is in the manual.
Towing a Trailer
(Manual Transaxle)
Do not tow a trailer if your vehicle is equipped with a
manual transaxle.
Towing a Trailer
(Automatic Transaxle)
Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with an
automatic transaxle and the proper trailer towing
equipment. If your vehicle is not equipped as stated
above, do not tow a trailer. To identify the trailering
capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information
in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this
section. Trailering is different than just driving your
vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling,
acceleration, braking, cooling, durability and fuel
economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct
equipment, and it has to be used properly.
That is the reason for this part. In it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many of these are important for your safety and that of
your passengers. So please read this section carefully
before you pull a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle,
wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder
against the drag of the added weight. The engine
is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and
under greater loads, generating extra heat. Also,
the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance,
increasing the pulling requirements.
4-39
equipment. If your vehicle is not equipped as stated
above, do not tow a trailer. To identify the trailering
capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information
in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this
section. Trailering is different than just driving your
vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling,
acceleration, braking, cooling, durability and fuel
economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct
equipment, and it has to be used properly.
That is the reason for this part. In it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many of these are important for your safety and that of
your passengers. So please read this section carefully
before you pull a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle,
wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder
against the drag of the added weight. The engine
is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and
under greater loads, generating extra heat. Also,
the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance,
increasing the pulling requirements.
4-39
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg).
But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example,
speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and
how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all
important. It can also depend on any special equipment
that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue
weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer
Tongue” later in this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example,
speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and
how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all
important. It can also depend on any special equipment
that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue
weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer
Tongue” later in this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
10-01-2006, 01:31 PM
#14
Platinum Member
Join Date: 05-09-2006
Location: "Upland" Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 6,804
Originally Posted by joshua_arndt
Has anyone done this? I'm looking at buying a pop-up camper, and was wondering if the HHR would be up to pulling it. I'm thinking it shoulnt be to big of a problem. But just was wondering if anyone else has here on the site.
Josh
Josh
I just looked and saw you are in the Oklahoma City area (spent some time in Norman the past August). It gets hot there. By experience, the HHR cooling system is adequate for most climates but, not the states that see excessive heat and especially pulling a trailer.
Because I have experienced engine temp.'s higher than normal in my HHR, I am investigating the change of radiators....an additional quart of coolant will help tremendously.
10-01-2006, 04:45 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-19-2006
Location: Westborough, Ma
Posts: 163
here is another motorcycle camper link
I like the look of that little guy but this one looks like it got more room
I can see the 3600lbs towing weight for a short distance but try stopping it with the small breaks !
I like the look of that little guy but this one looks like it got more room
I can see the 3600lbs towing weight for a short distance but try stopping it with the small breaks !
10-19-2006, 12:25 PM
#17
New Member
Join Date: 10-19-2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 28
In some states you must have Electric Brakes >1000 lbs. I think the 1000 lb limit is liability driven. I have been pulling small trailors for 25 years and have watched the tow ratings of cars march downward. Once SUV's became popular the bottom fell out for cars. I pulled a 16 foot keel sailboat and trailor (2000) pound with my old 1985 Dodge lancer 2.2 Automatic and it was rated at 1500 lbs with <100 hourse engine. My 1994 Ranger 5sp 4Cyl was rated as DO NOT TOW anything in the owners manual. I towed a 16 ft travel trailor on a 2400 mile round trip and many shorter Journeys. Now i am not gonna tow more than a little Garden trailor with my HHR, but my point is that I think there is suffencient give in the numbers to not really have to obsess over 150 to 200 pounds. Chevy probably has a point though. People expect to run 70 on the Interstate while towing so they have to adjust their ratings accordingly.
10-19-2006, 12:39 PM
#18
Member
Join Date: 03-21-2006
Location: BC
Posts: 40
Originally Posted by mew7789
In some states you must have Electric Brakes >1000 lbs. I think the 1000 lb limit is liability driven. I have been pulling small trailors for 25 years and have watched the tow ratings of cars march downward. Once SUV's became popular the bottom fell out for cars. I pulled a 16 foot keel sailboat and trailor (2000) pound with my old 1985 Dodge lancer 2.2 Automatic and it was rated at 1500 lbs with <100 hourse engine. My 1994 Ranger 5sp 4Cyl was rated as DO NOT TOW anything in the owners manual. I towed a 16 ft travel trailor on a 2400 mile round trip and many shorter Journeys. Now i am not gonna tow more than a little Garden trailor with my HHR, but my point is that I think there is suffencient give in the numbers to not really have to obsess over 150 to 200 pounds. Chevy probably has a point though. People expect to run 70 on the Interstate while towing so they have to adjust their ratings accordingly.
10-20-2006, 08:35 AM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-19-2006
Location: Westborough, Ma
Posts: 163
IMO pulling the weight is not the issue its STOPPING the weight...the brakes (rotors) on the HHR, well, suck....while on the Talladega trip we crossed over the Blue Ridge to get to my Brother house in VA....I had @800lbs of supplies and people in my HHR (nothing in tow) and had the you know what scared out of me when I needed to stop for the turn while I was coming down the mountain....at 1st the braking was fine but as they heated up and the rotors began to warp (due to the heating) the front end shook like crazy while I was braking (felt like a wheel was about to fall off)....so for me I would be careful towing anything ! or get a trailer that has its own braking system and better yet, upgrade the braking system for the HHR (this is something I plan to do this winter) if you plan to tow
10-20-2006, 02:23 PM
#20
New Member
Join Date: 10-19-2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 28
Did you have a chance to try the I setting on the transmission? I cross a small moutain once a week and decided to give it a try. It's kind of spooky, but when I drop it in I it not only drops to third immediatly, It will later gear down further to 2nd on it's own during a particularly sharp downhill curve. Thanks for the heads up on the brakes, No way I'm going near a mountain in "D" after your news.