intelligen

Hey, everyone,

I've never towed anything before, but I want to get a trailer hitch and light-duty trailer for my wife's 2009 HHR 2LT. I've read up on the 1000 lbs towing limit stated in the user manual and think we should be well within the limit since the stuff we need to haul is only going to be a couple hundred pounds (and the trailers I'm looking at are 250, 350, and 460 lbs, respectively). However, I could still use a little help.

1. It looks like there are a couple different styles of hitches: and . To me the larger one looks like it would bolt more securely to the frame, but both are Class I. Is there any reason to go with one over the other?

2. Is there a reason why all the receivers appear to be offset left of center (when looking at the hitch from the back of the car)? Will I have to factor this into whatever trailer I buy?

3. Has anyone used the hitch? Pros/cons?

4. I think I need some extra accessories: wiring kit for the trailer's lights and a ball of the appropriate size for my trailer. I've also seen people mention getting a locking pin--I assume to lock the ball mount (drawbar?) into the receiver. What else do I need?

5. I'm looking at inexpensive (~$430-$700) trailers from Theisen's and Mill's Fleet Farm...specifically, the 4x6, 4x8, and 5x8 sizes. (My local Theisen's actually has a couple more options than what's listed on their website, but it looks like the same ones are cheaper at Fleet Farm.) Has anyone else used one of those, and if so, do you have any advice? I was thinking about throwing a sheet of plywood over the expanded metal floor, tying stuff down really well, and tying a net or tarp over the top to keep anything from flying out on the highway.

6. I'll probably have a few days to practice driving around town and backing up before I use the trailer to haul some stuff to a concession stand we're running in a nearby town, but if I've never towed a trailer before, what will I need to know in order to drive safely, not burn up my transmission, etc.?

7. Will there be any problem with using a 1-1/4" to 2" receiver adapter for, say, a heavy-duty bike rack? Or should I just try to stick with 1-1/4" accessories?

Thanks, guys!

843de

Oh boy!

So many questions, with not as many concrete answers as you might expect.

Give this thread a read for starters, then try out the new Google linked Search function on the Navbar.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/general-hhr-4/trailer-towing-troubling-observation-37119/

Another good source of info is to stop by your local RV and trailer dealer, they have the real world knowledge to help you with your hitch choice and fitment.

intelligen

Thanks for the quick response. Actually I've already read pretty much every towing-related thread on these forums and couldn't find specific answers to most questions I mentioned--most of the threads talk about the weight limits (1000 lbs gross weight) or the fact that the owner's manual says not to tow if you have a manual transmission. However, I did find the answer to one of my questions by rereading the towing threads again. According to one person in the thread you linked and a tutorial post by denny, the "smaller" hitches screw into the sheet mtal floor that holds the spare tire, whereas the "larger" hitches bolt directly to the frame, as far as I can tell from watching the YouTube installation videos.

In terms of question #6, I was referring to all the statements in various about people not knowing what they're doing and wrecking their car. Well, I would probably qualify as one of those idiots , and I was just wondering if there were some basic tips, like set the shifter to 2 or don't drive faster than 55.

I'll try looking up an RV & trailer dealer tomorrow...I just wasn't sure how much expertise they would have specifically with the HHR, or the specific hitches that I was looking at on Amazon.

Grizzly old man

I bought a hitch like the first one you have a link for. I already had a utility trailer from Menard's that I used to pull around with my '98 Neon. After that Neon died we bought a new '05 Neon but the hitch from the '98 would not bolt to the '05 so I had to buy another hitch.

Since I wanted to be able to tow my trailer around with any of our vehicles I bought yet another hitch for the HHR.

So far I have hauled some things that probably were over weight for both the trailer and the HHR but I have had no problems with it.

The trailer was on special when I got it for something like $199.00. it came with a light kit that had a pig tail to wire into the vehicle. It only took me a few minutes to wire it in with the supplied wire clamp things. Since then I managed to break the drivers sided light so I replaced them with a set of LED lights from Harbor Freight. They were around $35.00, its nice to know that the LED bulbs will probably outlast the trailer.

When it was time to wire in the pigtail on the HHR I bought one made just for the HHR. You just unplug in the sockets already in the HHR put this thing in and replug sockets for the lights in the car again, so all I had to do was find a spot on the body to put a screw in for the ground wire.

Simple as snot.

Ron S

When I bought my hitch I got the dedicated wiring harness It took me longer to get everything out then it took me to install it. I tow a smal 3x6 utility trailer that I found at Lowe's for $400. It came fully wired ready to hook up This is my second utility trailer as my first one was much smaller. The only thing is you will find that a small trailer is harder to back up than a longer trailer. I hope this helps.

Silverfox

I'll give you my opinion and thoughts.

Re: questions,

Don't cut corners. Purchase a quality proper sized hitch.

1. I would go with go with Curt Manf.

#11447 Just the hitch, or
#114473 The hitch and 9 9/16" long ball mount 5" rise.

#55432 Wiring Connector kit

OR

Drawtite #24756 Sportframe hitch

#118407 Wiring Connector kit


2. The offset look comes from the fact that the exhaust system is in the way on the drivers side. The mounting plate on that side requires the offset.
The ball mount tube IS in the "center" of the car when installed.

3. Buy the looks of the Amazon part numbers they are using "Curt" hitches.
Don't waste time on the Euro style. Ball welded on and you cannot change the size if needed.
Shop E Trailer and others for the best deal. Google trailer hitches for different suppliers for each brand. Take into consideration shipping and sales taxes if any.

4. Your basic needs are,

Hitch.
Wiring kit.
Correct ball mount with a 5" rise and a minimum 9 9/16" length.
Lock pin and clip .. for ball mount.
Proper size trailer ball for your trailer.

5. No opionion

6. Backing a trailer comes mostly from practice. When you once get it down you should be able to back into most places using just your rear view mirrors with only an occasional head turn around to see areas out of view thru the mirrors.
Forward driving is mostly just calm common sense. Realize you have additonal weight, width, and length behind you and you need to constantly be aware of that while driving. Eventially it becomes more natural and you can relax a bit.
One thing you should know about backing is that the distance between the trailer ball and the trailer tires effects how quickly the trailer reacts to turning adjustments.
The shorter the distance, the faster the trailer will react.
I find it easier to back a longer trailer.
Solution for smaller trailers is "go slower" so you don't get out of control.


7. I would just stick to the 1 1/4" accessories unless you find something you want only available in the 2".

Good Luck and it sounds like you are asking the right questions for a begginer.

SF

intelligen

Grizzly O.M., thanks for the shopping and wiring tips! They'll come in handy over the next few days as I start buying and hooking things up.

Ron, thanks for the good info; that's a big help! I'll have to swing by Lowe's, Menards, and Home Depot when I get a chance. I hadn't even thought of checking for trailers at home improvement stores. I can also see how a smaller trailer could go out of control a lot quicker when backing up.

Silverfox...thanks for all the in-depth info! Just what I was looking for.

1. I went ahead and ordered the #114473 The hitch and 9 9/16" long ball mount 5" rise, a wiring kit, and a 2" ball since the 2 trailers at the top of my list take a 2" ball. It looked like all the Class I Curt ball mounts have a 3/4" dia. shank, so I found a Curt 2" ball for less than 6 bucks.

2. Thanks! That makes sense now. Now that you mention it, I think all the pictures I've seen here of people's mounted hitches looked like the hitch was centered, after all.

3. Thanks for the clarification on the Euro ball and the hitch shopping tips.

4. I went ahead and ordered the hitch w/ball mount, wiring kit, and ball. I still need to get the locking pin. I figure I'll get that locally or order it from etrailer.com since they have a nice search filter for all my 1-1/4" accessories.

6. Thanks a lot for the backing & driving tips. I'm also finding some good info on UHAUL's website and YouTube, but I think the things you mentioned are the things I need to hammer into my brain the hardest.

7. Thanks, good to know I won't need that adapter after all! I had looked at the hitches on etrailer.com but hadn't thought to look there for bike racks and cargo trays. I really like that you can filter the search results by receiver size and other attributes.

Thanks again!

Best of all, I've been wrestling with the decision on whether or not to buy a truck that gets used to haul things maybe a few times a year, but once we get a trailer I probably won't even need a truck for most of those things.

-md- HHR

I used e-trailer for everything. Wiring, hitch, and receiver, and ball.

I had a Hidden Hitch that came with the 4.0" riser receiver. Worked great towing my 4'x8' trailer and my 4-wheeler.

wmsburghhr

the height of your ball mount is determined by your trailer. Don't buy one with a 5" rise just because someone else did. My trailer required fixed 3/4 straight mount, but when using the trailer on my GMC Terrain, I need a mount with 4" drop. You want the bed of the trailer to sit relatively level, not pitch up in the front or the rear.

rink 610

I went to Etrailer and bought the Curt hitch, drawbar and wiring harness. Also check Harbor Freight for trailers. If you don't mind assembly they're good solid units, and they're usually on sale.