V8 HHR Build
04-22-2015, 12:11 PM
#501
Member
Join Date: 03-30-2015
Location: Portland Oegon
Posts: 58
Lasiter,
Sounds like your doing a good job on the roll bar / Cage. Here's a HHR "Crumple Zones" pic. The side impact has always been my concern, hope this might assist..
We went out to several junk yards and viewed the damage to the unibody form several different zones. WE went to make a few measurements for my engine & trans fitment. The unibody did an excellent job in protecting the passenger area, was impressive. But, still I do see your point. See, now you've got e thinking..
I've got a question re the lower diffy control arm. I'll send you a P.M. soon.
Michael
Sounds like your doing a good job on the roll bar / Cage. Here's a HHR "Crumple Zones" pic. The side impact has always been my concern, hope this might assist..
We went out to several junk yards and viewed the damage to the unibody form several different zones. WE went to make a few measurements for my engine & trans fitment. The unibody did an excellent job in protecting the passenger area, was impressive. But, still I do see your point. See, now you've got e thinking..
I've got a question re the lower diffy control arm. I'll send you a P.M. soon.
Michael
04-24-2015, 09:48 PM
#506
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-28-2008
Location: Oshawa
Posts: 1,115
Blue, I also am a union member (CAW 222)GM canadian side. Retired 8 years worked 33.5 years. There is nothing like having a union when the company feels like doing whatever they like with no reasoning. Unions gave me a good wage, and a nice standard of living. Unions saved alot of ppl from slave labour and minimum wage.
04-27-2015, 06:26 PM
#507
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 04-06-2010
Location: Riverside, California
Posts: 655
I wish I had some cooler photos to post but this is what it looks like. It's pretty slow work figuring this out. Progress is being made tho. The goal is to get the engine to crank in a few days. Wish us luck.
04-29-2015, 11:49 AM
#509
Member
Join Date: 03-30-2015
Location: Portland Oegon
Posts: 58
You've got a Big Project now !!
I went through this when I, well We, installed a LS1 & T56 in my '56 Chevy 210 Coupe a few years ago. Simple, same principle, Gut the Car of a all wiring and start over. Now the the Real Fun begins. My '56 had been previously re-wired, and what a disaster
I'm an Engineer and so are my two friends that helped. Imagine how Engineers Route wiring looms, but it was fun. One of my friends is an absolute Perfectionist and a Magician with wire looms. He brought Zip Ties that could be Un-Zipped. I recommend You get a handful of these little Jewels, save a heap of time and Cursing at the Wires.. ha ha
We used a lot of Solder, and Marine Shrink Tubing. The Marine Shrink tubing is much thicker and contains a glue inside the tubing that is Heat Activated,, Just Don't get the glue on your Fingers while it is the Liquid state - Burns something awful and it doesn't come off the skin. We decided to keep a pan of Cold Water handy to save our fingers
Silver solder with a low % of Silver- resists Corrosion, and the Thicker Marine Shrink Tubing doesn't split or leak - as permanent as one can get.
We also Did NOT use the typical "Crimped But Connectors', they are unreliable. Instead We used what is called the Western Union Long Splice", soldering the junction and protecting with the Marine shrink tubing. You can easily make these splices. a Google search will locate a description of Video.
Also, I can not over emphasizes How Critical Good Grounds are in Cars with Electronic systems, seemingly everywhere !! Poor grounds can measure good continuity and still not be adequate,,, Which will drive most of us Crazy.
Marine Stores also carry better Connectors, the Crimp on Type. They are thicker and have larger ends on the "rings" where the screw bolts it down. Esp great for Grounds and larger gauge wire. Industrial Supply Dealers and most Marine Stores, like West Marine carry these products.
Oh yes, one last thing. If you use this type of Shrink Tubing, make darn sure your junction or connector is where and how you want it, Because one you Shirk the tubing you will not get it back off without damaging the wire or it's insulation. Which I've done many times because I didn't check the Ring size on the connector and after I was done shrinking it I realized that the Screw (or Bolt) was larger than the Ring hole....
I'd bet that your keeping a Build Book. I have always kept one for when I have to go back and "Improve" something. I seem to always make "Upgrades" later on. So I make hand sketches of all of my Wiring Circuits. I make small sections like, Instrument Panel, Rear lights, Front lights, Ignition,, etc. I've already replaced the Radio in my '56" three times and had my Instrument cluster out more than I remember.
I only use the "wrap on labels" on wires looms. But I always note the wire color and size. With the Exception of the LS1 ECU wiring. Shortening up the wires is this monster was challenging. I only shortened one wire at a time, labeled it and noted the wire size and color. Amazingly the Engine started the First Time.
Well, I hope some of this might assist your "Massive" wiring project.
You've peaked my interest with your Roll Bar install. Waiting anxiously to read about it when you get back to it.
Good Luck !!
I went through this when I, well We, installed a LS1 & T56 in my '56 Chevy 210 Coupe a few years ago. Simple, same principle, Gut the Car of a all wiring and start over. Now the the Real Fun begins. My '56 had been previously re-wired, and what a disaster
I'm an Engineer and so are my two friends that helped. Imagine how Engineers Route wiring looms, but it was fun. One of my friends is an absolute Perfectionist and a Magician with wire looms. He brought Zip Ties that could be Un-Zipped. I recommend You get a handful of these little Jewels, save a heap of time and Cursing at the Wires.. ha ha
We used a lot of Solder, and Marine Shrink Tubing. The Marine Shrink tubing is much thicker and contains a glue inside the tubing that is Heat Activated,, Just Don't get the glue on your Fingers while it is the Liquid state - Burns something awful and it doesn't come off the skin. We decided to keep a pan of Cold Water handy to save our fingers
Silver solder with a low % of Silver- resists Corrosion, and the Thicker Marine Shrink Tubing doesn't split or leak - as permanent as one can get.
We also Did NOT use the typical "Crimped But Connectors', they are unreliable. Instead We used what is called the Western Union Long Splice", soldering the junction and protecting with the Marine shrink tubing. You can easily make these splices. a Google search will locate a description of Video.
Also, I can not over emphasizes How Critical Good Grounds are in Cars with Electronic systems, seemingly everywhere !! Poor grounds can measure good continuity and still not be adequate,,, Which will drive most of us Crazy.
Marine Stores also carry better Connectors, the Crimp on Type. They are thicker and have larger ends on the "rings" where the screw bolts it down. Esp great for Grounds and larger gauge wire. Industrial Supply Dealers and most Marine Stores, like West Marine carry these products.
Oh yes, one last thing. If you use this type of Shrink Tubing, make darn sure your junction or connector is where and how you want it, Because one you Shirk the tubing you will not get it back off without damaging the wire or it's insulation. Which I've done many times because I didn't check the Ring size on the connector and after I was done shrinking it I realized that the Screw (or Bolt) was larger than the Ring hole....
I'd bet that your keeping a Build Book. I have always kept one for when I have to go back and "Improve" something. I seem to always make "Upgrades" later on. So I make hand sketches of all of my Wiring Circuits. I make small sections like, Instrument Panel, Rear lights, Front lights, Ignition,, etc. I've already replaced the Radio in my '56" three times and had my Instrument cluster out more than I remember.
I only use the "wrap on labels" on wires looms. But I always note the wire color and size. With the Exception of the LS1 ECU wiring. Shortening up the wires is this monster was challenging. I only shortened one wire at a time, labeled it and noted the wire size and color. Amazingly the Engine started the First Time.
Well, I hope some of this might assist your "Massive" wiring project.
You've peaked my interest with your Roll Bar install. Waiting anxiously to read about it when you get back to it.
Good Luck !!
04-29-2015, 11:48 PM
#510
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 04-06-2010
Location: Riverside, California
Posts: 655
Cleaning up the harness
Things are looking a little more organized as far as the harness goes. The ECM is mounted in the engine compartment and quite a few terminations have been made. Progress is slow but it is progress. Here are some current pics.