Who has the fastest automatic?
08-03-2015, 11:55 AM
#1
Who has the fastest automatic?
I'm wondering who has the fastest automatic SS. What problems did you come across at what power/torque numbers? What do you figure is the breaking point of the transmission? What 1/4 times do you run? EDIT: people have answered similar questions before but I'm looking for people who have actually done it, I know what the estimated breaking point is and don't believe it's that low.
Last edited by OshawaHHRss; 08-03-2015 at 12:02 PM. Reason: Forgot to mention that I'm not looking for a copy paste answer lmao
08-03-2015, 05:30 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-26-2009
Location: City of Champions
Posts: 666
That was so 2014...
Got it down to 12.30 , last year...
All runs in the 12.3s , late 2015
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/raci...30/#post761036
Easy to mod, easy on parts , I've never broken anything.
Search , 2005hhrauto , for lots of testing/info
Surprisingly, the 4t45e is quite strong & dependable.
There is a transmission rebuilder, on the web, that stated that the 4t65e, is weak, & crap,
& that the 4t45e is more reliable.
You DO need to make it live, by cutting the shift times, in half, via HPTuner, & by running a
full synthetic oil. I use valvoline 100% full synthetic.
And its really important to run with a tire on the street, that doesn't , "dead-hook".
Dead-hooking on the street, is a trans killer...
Got it down to 12.30 , last year...
All runs in the 12.3s , late 2015
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/raci...30/#post761036
Easy to mod, easy on parts , I've never broken anything.
Search , 2005hhrauto , for lots of testing/info
Surprisingly, the 4t45e is quite strong & dependable.
There is a transmission rebuilder, on the web, that stated that the 4t65e, is weak, & crap,
& that the 4t45e is more reliable.
You DO need to make it live, by cutting the shift times, in half, via HPTuner, & by running a
full synthetic oil. I use valvoline 100% full synthetic.
And its really important to run with a tire on the street, that doesn't , "dead-hook".
Dead-hooking on the street, is a trans killer...
Last edited by 2005HHRauto; 08-03-2015 at 06:30 PM.
08-04-2015, 07:24 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-26-2009
Location: City of Champions
Posts: 666
[/IMG]Cool… LS engines rock….
But, I'd put my money on this 1,000HP 2.0 Ecotec HHR...
HHR construction 10
Canepa Design
Or this out-of-this-world, space , model...
[
LS engines rock….But, I'd put my money on this 1,000HP 2.0 Ecotec HHR...
HHR construction 10
Canepa Design
Or this out-of-this-world, space , model...
[
08-04-2015, 07:50 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-26-2009
Location: City of Champions
Posts: 666
The Jerico Air-Shifted 5-speed is clutch-less, so it really is kind of automatic...
Ethanol , is Gods racing gas... LOL
But really, the OP needs info on keeping his 4t45e, living a long life...
For long 4t45e longevity:
1. Reduce shift time in half , via HPTuner.
2. Increase the torque reduction in 1st gear, 0-3,500rpm
3. Use 100% synthetic fluid , & change it, every 2 years.
4. NO super sticky street tires, as you don't want to 'dead-hook', on the street.
5. Experience ?? I just turned 62 , so I kind of know, how to drive wisely, & not beat up, the equipment ??
And really, our little buggy, is so easy to mod:
1. Just a 'tune', any 'tune' , will wake it up, & make it a true muscle-car, & oh so fun to drive...
2. 'Tunes' can be mild-to-well thought out, our buggy is so easy to 'tune', really no wild 'tunes' needed, as a wild 'tune',
is really a bad 'tune', a 'tune' that isn't well-thought-out.
3. A simple, well thought out, gasoline 'tune', WILL be so streetable, & also be, a mid 13 second beast, at the track.
4. An Ethanol 'tune', + some really simple mods, WILL still be 100% streetable, = run 12s, at the track.
These simple mods = 12s , at the track.
1. E47 Ethanol 'tune'.
2. K&N air intake system.
3. Coring the 2nd cat.
4. TTech engine mount.
5. Slicks, or really good drag radials.
That's it, it really is that easy...
A 'tune' , 2 aftermarket parts, modding the 2nd cat, & good tires.
For me to go 12.3s , I had to add a 3" cat-back, + light-weight rotors, & wheels/tires, saving 100 pounds, BUT sill, 100% streetable.
It is still 100% streetable, gets 30mpg on highway trips, if I'm really trying, LOL , & I drive it year round, in Pittsburgh winters too…
I just reprogram to trans, for 2nd gear starts, using the "I", shifting position, in the winter, for reduced torque, when starting out on ice, or heavy snow... LOL
FUN FACTS
Run E20 , if you have Ethanol in your area.
5/1 ratio = 5 parts E10 91/93 gasoline , + 1 part E85 = E20.
Your engine will love it, run better, last longer, more power, try it, NO tuning needed, ...
If you 'core' the 2nd cat, NO tuning is needed.
If you add the K&N air intake system to your buggy, NO tuning is needed, & this system, will cause your stock 'tune', to be better...
If you add the K&N intake system, 'core' the 2nd cat, + run E20 , NO tuning needed still, & your buggy will run so sweet...
My Buggy is 100% stock, expect for the following mods:
1. E47 'tune'
2. K&N air intake system.
3. TTech engine mount.
4. 'Coring' , of the 2nd cat.
5. 3" cat-back exhaust, ( needed to go 12.3s , instead of 12.4s), LOL. A cat-back, is really not worth doing...
6. Lightweight rotors/wheels/tires, & 4 lug wheel bearing hubs, for my 4 bolt Enkei 9.5lb wheels. Rotors are now, stock cheap 1996 Honda Accord, on the front, & cheap Honda Civic STI, on the back. Saved 100 pounds doing this, feels great on the street, & knocked one tenth, off of my 1/4 mile times.
Definitely NOT worth it, & I would never do this again. I really expected more than a tenth, at the track, doing this...
So, if I had too do it again, I would skip steps 5 & 6 , & be happy running 12.5s at the track, instead of 12.3s.
Ethanol , is Gods racing gas... LOL
But really, the OP needs info on keeping his 4t45e, living a long life...
For long 4t45e longevity:
1. Reduce shift time in half , via HPTuner.
2. Increase the torque reduction in 1st gear, 0-3,500rpm
3. Use 100% synthetic fluid , & change it, every 2 years.
4. NO super sticky street tires, as you don't want to 'dead-hook', on the street.
5. Experience ?? I just turned 62 , so I kind of know, how to drive wisely, & not beat up, the equipment ??
And really, our little buggy, is so easy to mod:
1. Just a 'tune', any 'tune' , will wake it up, & make it a true muscle-car, & oh so fun to drive...
2. 'Tunes' can be mild-to-well thought out, our buggy is so easy to 'tune', really no wild 'tunes' needed, as a wild 'tune',
is really a bad 'tune', a 'tune' that isn't well-thought-out.
3. A simple, well thought out, gasoline 'tune', WILL be so streetable, & also be, a mid 13 second beast, at the track.
4. An Ethanol 'tune', + some really simple mods, WILL still be 100% streetable, = run 12s, at the track.
These simple mods = 12s , at the track.
1. E47 Ethanol 'tune'.
2. K&N air intake system.
3. Coring the 2nd cat.
4. TTech engine mount.
5. Slicks, or really good drag radials.
That's it, it really is that easy...
A 'tune' , 2 aftermarket parts, modding the 2nd cat, & good tires.
For me to go 12.3s , I had to add a 3" cat-back, + light-weight rotors, & wheels/tires, saving 100 pounds, BUT sill, 100% streetable.
It is still 100% streetable, gets 30mpg on highway trips, if I'm really trying, LOL , & I drive it year round, in Pittsburgh winters too…
I just reprogram to trans, for 2nd gear starts, using the "I", shifting position, in the winter, for reduced torque, when starting out on ice, or heavy snow... LOL
FUN FACTS
Run E20 , if you have Ethanol in your area.
5/1 ratio = 5 parts E10 91/93 gasoline , + 1 part E85 = E20.
Your engine will love it, run better, last longer, more power, try it, NO tuning needed, ...
If you 'core' the 2nd cat, NO tuning is needed.
If you add the K&N air intake system to your buggy, NO tuning is needed, & this system, will cause your stock 'tune', to be better...
If you add the K&N intake system, 'core' the 2nd cat, + run E20 , NO tuning needed still, & your buggy will run so sweet...
My Buggy is 100% stock, expect for the following mods:
1. E47 'tune'
2. K&N air intake system.
3. TTech engine mount.
4. 'Coring' , of the 2nd cat.
5. 3" cat-back exhaust, ( needed to go 12.3s , instead of 12.4s), LOL. A cat-back, is really not worth doing...
6. Lightweight rotors/wheels/tires, & 4 lug wheel bearing hubs, for my 4 bolt Enkei 9.5lb wheels. Rotors are now, stock cheap 1996 Honda Accord, on the front, & cheap Honda Civic STI, on the back. Saved 100 pounds doing this, feels great on the street, & knocked one tenth, off of my 1/4 mile times.
Definitely NOT worth it, & I would never do this again. I really expected more than a tenth, at the track, doing this...
So, if I had too do it again, I would skip steps 5 & 6 , & be happy running 12.5s at the track, instead of 12.3s.
Last edited by 2005HHRauto; 08-04-2015 at 01:56 PM.