SS won't run
12-26-2016, 10:46 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: 09-16-2013
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 1,408
250? If I ever saw my temp climb even to 220 while driving I would pull over. I like my engine toasty not roasty.
12-30-2016, 12:06 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-10-2008
Location: Not necessarily Humbolt County
Posts: 421
Unless the LNF has some specific issue with 250 unique to itself, 250 shouldn't cause any issues. The issue is the coolant is close to losing its ability to not boil and stay in the engine. But hitting 250 is really nothing. Again, that assumes it doesn't have some unique weakness. These are not 60-70s engines. The metals and tolerances are far different. I have not heard of any unique problems.
12-30-2016, 12:12 AM
#13
Platinum Member
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,032
Unless the LNF has some specific issue with 250 unique to itself, 250 shouldn't cause any issues. The issue is the coolant is close to losing its ability to not boil and stay in the engine. But hitting 250 is really nothing. Again, that assumes it doesn't have some unique weakness. These are not 60-70s engines. The metals and tolerances are far different. I have not heard of any unique problems.
12-30-2016, 12:18 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-10-2008
Location: Not necessarily Humbolt County
Posts: 421
What are the specific issues? Sounds like they are well known. And not anecdotes. 250 causing damage means there is a specific weakness. I didn't say it doesn't but generally 250 shouldn't be an issue. Maybe it does. Enlighten me. My anecdotal evidence of running 230 often in the summer doesn't support my point either.
12-30-2016, 12:33 AM
#15
Platinum Member
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,032
No, you want ME to go thru the forums here and pull up the proof for you? Ain't happening. Believe what you want.
12-30-2016, 06:18 AM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: 09-16-2013
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 1,408
Common knowledge I believe that anything above 220, regardless of engine size, is not necessarily "normal". 230 is the beginning of the danger zone for non turbos and if your car was running 230 (which is at the very HOT end of the acceptable temp range for an SS) in the summer "often" means you have had an issue with your cooling system for a while now. You are "slow cooking" all your systems under the hood. Whatever is failing WILL finally give out like it did to the OP. Maybe its been years like that but, again, doesn't sound normal.
12-30-2016, 08:03 AM
#17
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,662
250F is the point that the ECM goes into "cooling" mode and "limp home" mode. I tries to bring the temp down by randomly causing misfires and limiting the RPM. A few more degrees it will shut down.
You are thinking cast iron block and head. The "new fangled" engines distort at 250F.
If you are hitting 230F you do have a problem.
You are thinking cast iron block and head. The "new fangled" engines distort at 250F.
If you are hitting 230F you do have a problem.
12-30-2016, 08:36 AM
#18
Platinum Member
Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,088
Aluminum cylinder heads + 250F temps= problems. Cracked or warped heads, plus head gasket failure are known results.
In the old days of cast iron blocks/heads, you could get away with overheating sometimes without major damage.
Modern day light weight aluminum components are just not as forgiving to extreme overheating.
In the old days of cast iron blocks/heads, you could get away with overheating sometimes without major damage.
Modern day light weight aluminum components are just not as forgiving to extreme overheating.
12-30-2016, 08:46 AM
#20
Administrator
Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,451
Recheck the timing chain
