whopper

If "I take can actuator" = "intake camshaft actuator solenoid", yes the part is available at other auto parts stores made by various companies.

What makes you think it needs replacing? The "jerking" can be caused by several other causes.

donbrew

I think Google Translate may be causing a problem. INTAKE CAM ACTUATOR is what it probably meant.

Might be on the right track, but who said it and why?

Snoopy

"I think Google Translate may be causing a problem. INTAKE CAM ACTUATOR is what it probably meant."


Although I've been to Texas many times and have had a problem understanding some of them, didn't know you needed to use a translater.

Kidding aside, you are probably correct. But is he/she asking in regard to an HHR? Read the profile.

Glad to help, but more info is needed.

whopper

Oh geese!!!!!! Yeah I just checked his profile.

Hey man, if you are talking about a G5 - you are totally on your own. It is a different animal than the HHR.

I'm Out of this one.

Yohanwarrior

My first post on this site a.m. an owner of a Pontiac G6 with the 2.4 L engine. Was on the G6 site researching the pulled code p0010 ( code definition A camshaft position actuator control circuit\open bank 1) which sent me through a link to your site. Very glad it did as you have a great posting for the problem I've been having. Seems the 2.4 L engine is the same as most of the smaller GM products of the same year 2008. Between the auto parts stores and Google posts I've been like a ping-pong ball back-and-forth on which was the exhaust part number and the intake part number as they have several different numbers which you so efficiently defined. However the colors had thrown me off as to which one was grey and one was black that way you could identify by color which one was the exhausted which one was the intake which further confuse the situation. The OEM intake solenoid or actuator was a gray top which was also verified in several pictures. I purchased a replacement part VVT solenoid number 917215 a Doorman part which was sold by AutoZone. I get home open up the vehicle top engine plastics, take all the things apart get to the annoyed/actuators. Open up the box from AutoZone lo and behold the top plastic connector is BLACK in color!!!! I've been chasing my tail ever sense trying to get out which goes with which thinking they gave me the the exhaust (black topped oem part in the engine.... Top it all off now With all the putting on taking off one of the wire pig tail connectors has broken. the wire was found also to have been worn at the very tip so being the D I Y guy I am I attempted to solder another wire to that which failed due to too short of wire to work with. I said all this to ask this...

1) have I ruined the doorman part 917-215 (intake solenoid ) by running it in the exhaust solenoid slot?

2) looking at the 2 side by side they look very similar if not the same....what is the difference between the two as I seen on your site both tested at 10.5 ohm for the new replacements? I realize they have different part numbers, however being a simple man if it looks like a duck and sounds like a duck....it must be a duck???[QUOTE]

Lucky

I believe the only difference between the two is the connectors. So you can't plug the cam actuator connector into the exhaust actuator or vise versa. The actuators should be installed is this fashion.

FatTireBiker

Mine did the same thing and I replaced the SOLENOIDS on top of the engine far left of the plugs. It run perfectly now. My 2 cents.

Slide_Rite

Just changed both int. & exh. solenoids with no problem. Figured while I had them out I would change the oil...being that TX summer is coming, threw in my normal 10W-30. Guess I'll switch it back to 5W-30 on the next change.

Regarding the replacement, things went smoothly. Kudos to Whopper for the how to, which made it a breeze.

Took this pic of my solution to the "clip lock retainer stopper holder inner hows this thing come out ah crap I broke it" problem...

This is the straw from my WD-40, slides in snuggly & then you can gently push the lock up and remove.




The only snafu I encountered was that I apparently didn't push the MAF connector back on completely and it lit the CEL back up again on my way to work. Re-connected it and no CEL or hard shifting since.

Thanks again to the OP, and everyone who has contributed to this thread!

whopper

Glad it worked out for you. And BIG thanks for the tip and picture on removing those pesky "oh crap, I broke it" clips.

I will try and copy it into the procedure in the first posting if you don't mind?

Let it be known that henceforth, those clips shall be known as "oh-crap,-I-broke-it-clips". Just try and tell that to the parts guy when you go to buy a replacement.

Slide_Rite

Hahaha, yep...had to break out the technical term...

Sure, feel free to add it if ya like. Might save a few people some broken clips.