How to replace rotors and pads on 06 HHR
03-31-2009, 11:10 AM
#21
Join Date: 03-30-2009
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When you compress the piston back into the caliper you should loosen the brake bleed nut, with a small vinyl tube attached to it, and let the fluid bleed off. This keeps from screwing up the antilock brake mechinism. Retighten the bleed nut. After finishing, check fluid level at the resevour (fill it up).
04-27-2009, 02:38 AM
#22
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03-18-2010, 11:00 AM
#23
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Yes, I did a little digging here.....
Getting ready to do the rotors/pads this weekend hopfully. I read over the GM manuals, but it's nice to see color photo's of the wook sometimes. Looks about as simple as most other things on the HHR. I do have one questions to the OP, you didn't use any of the "lock" washer to secure the new rotor? Also, how did the hub look under the old rotor? You have to do any cleaning on it to remove any rust or whatever?
BTW, I'll be putting on NAPA rotors/pads.
Getting ready to do the rotors/pads this weekend hopfully. I read over the GM manuals, but it's nice to see color photo's of the wook sometimes. Looks about as simple as most other things on the HHR. I do have one questions to the OP, you didn't use any of the "lock" washer to secure the new rotor? Also, how did the hub look under the old rotor? You have to do any cleaning on it to remove any rust or whatever?
BTW, I'll be putting on NAPA rotors/pads.
03-19-2010, 12:14 AM
#24
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03-19-2010, 02:07 AM
#25
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When you compress the piston back into the caliper you should loosen the brake bleed nut, with a small vinyl tube attached to it, and let the fluid bleed off. This keeps from screwing up the antilock brake mechinism. Retighten the bleed nut. After finishing, check fluid level at the resevour (fill it up).
Agreed, & only addition I'll add is before slowly C-clamping back the piston, I always spray the exposed piston with Brake-Kleen to clean off brake dust & road crud. This way you are not pushing crud back into/under the Caliper Dust Seal.. (& never breathe any Brake or Clutch dust)...
Just my
03-19-2010, 05:45 AM
#26
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I know threads like this are ment to help but there is so much more to changing brakes than just changing the pads.
With new cars there are things that need done we never had to do like open the bleeder mentioned above.
No one mentioned checking hub for run out or play.
There several things here mention and unmentioned that come into play with keeping the brakes from Juddering later on.
These things that are often missed cause the so call Warp. If these things are check it would correct or prevent the judder from happening 8000 miles later.
Many get lucky and all goes well but it is getting more important to do all the steps needed anymore for long brake life.
The shame is some mechanics still don't do all that is required either.
With new cars there are things that need done we never had to do like open the bleeder mentioned above.
No one mentioned checking hub for run out or play.
There several things here mention and unmentioned that come into play with keeping the brakes from Juddering later on.
These things that are often missed cause the so call Warp. If these things are check it would correct or prevent the judder from happening 8000 miles later.
Many get lucky and all goes well but it is getting more important to do all the steps needed anymore for long brake life.
The shame is some mechanics still don't do all that is required either.
03-19-2010, 06:18 PM
#27
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Join Date: 06-24-2006
Location: Bowling Green, OH
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I know threads like this are ment to help but there is so much more to changing brakes than just changing the pads.
With new cars there are things that need done we never had to do like open the bleeder mentioned above.
No one mentioned checking hub for run out or play.
There several things here mention and unmentioned that come into play with keeping the brakes from Juddering later on.
These things that are often missed cause the so call Warp. If these things are check it would correct or prevent the judder from happening 8000 miles later.
Many get lucky and all goes well but it is getting more important to do all the steps needed anymore for long brake life.
The shame is some mechanics still don't do all that is required either.
With new cars there are things that need done we never had to do like open the bleeder mentioned above.
No one mentioned checking hub for run out or play.
There several things here mention and unmentioned that come into play with keeping the brakes from Juddering later on.
These things that are often missed cause the so call Warp. If these things are check it would correct or prevent the judder from happening 8000 miles later.
Many get lucky and all goes well but it is getting more important to do all the steps needed anymore for long brake life.
The shame is some mechanics still don't do all that is required either.
03-19-2010, 07:36 PM
#28
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Join Date: 07-05-2008
Location: Akron Ohio
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See post #24 for mentioned rotor run out. You should also clamp the the brake hose before bleeding the the brakes with the right tool all it takes is 8lbs of pressure. The reason to clamp the hose is so that the "bad" brake fluid dirtied from the caliper doesnt return to the master cyclinder and cause bigger issues.
Run out I worry about more is the Hub bearings. They often will have wear and will be out of spec by 70,000 miles. This is what causes some of the so called warped rotors that are not warped. They have uneven wear thickness similar to warp but not warp.
Like I stated in another thread you can not alway just throw pads and rotors on like we used too. Things have changed a lot.
03-22-2010, 06:53 AM
#29
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When I posted this how to I wasn't as informed and didn't do things I should of done for instance open the master cylinder cap, clean the hub and inside of wheel, and others. You don't need to secure the rotor as it is a "free floating" system the only time a rotor is securely fastened to the hub is going down the factory line. You need and should clean the hub and wheel is because of rotor runout meaning the the rotor could have slight angle and not be true parallel to the pads/caliper. I tried to find a digital copy of the perfect brake job poster we hang at work but couldnt. The poster is a detailed step by step brake job. There are a series of videos online at napabrakes.com though since you mentioned napa
The old pads still had maybe 1/8" before the squeelers, probably less, that was just an eyeball look. They looked to have worn evenly and no material (chunks) missing. The right rotor had 2 light scars on the inside. 48k miles is early to need brakes, but I've seen worse.Total time, about an hour. ALmost as easy as the oil change on this thing.
I have taken a lot of the NAPA course. They are pretty good.
03-23-2010, 02:45 AM
#30
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Join Date: 01-09-2007
Location: SE USA
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Just FWIW: If the rear brakes are never checked for proper adjustment (very slight sprag) then the fronts are doing too much work..
I think it pays to check the backs (little spin off the ground will tell) when doing anything with the wheels. Yes they are self adjusting. But still worth making sure..
I think it pays to check the backs (little spin off the ground will tell) when doing anything with the wheels. Yes they are self adjusting. But still worth making sure..
