How to save $350.00 + (Thermostat Replacement 2.4L - P0128)
04-07-2015, 09:14 AM
#111
Senior Member
Join Date: 11-14-2006
Location: Memphis, Tn
Posts: 132
The rag was also helpful with the cleanup.
Ok I'm done.
04-07-2015, 05:56 PM
#112
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,662
BUT, you do not HAVE to drain the coolant to replace the t-stat. You should lose less than a pint. OOHH, a pint!
OK,I'm done!.
04-07-2015, 06:32 PM
#113
Senior Member
Join Date: 06-20-2011
Location: Savanna Illinois
Posts: 737
I used pliers on mine. Once I got it to break lose it was easy to turn by hand, that's how I tightened it.
05-22-2015, 09:51 AM
#115
Member
Join Date: 05-21-2007
Location: California
Posts: 53
Just replaced my thermostat in my 2006 2LT yesterday, thanks to your documentation, Smoke Wagon. I have owned this car since Dec 2006 and just started having thermostat issues around Jan 2015.
My thermostat was stuck in the open position. I was experiencing the same flat-lined temp gauge issues as many people in this thread. The analog gauge was all the way down to 0 and the digital gauge displayed a reading of --- F degrees. Occasionally, the gauge would kick in and start working, but it was flat-lined a majority of the time. On the off days that the gauge actually showed me any information, the temperature reading was really low (160-180 F).
Picked up a Duralast OEM thermostat replacement from AutoZone for about $25 along with generic AutoZone brand extended life 50/50 Dex-Cool for $11. The new thermostat already came with a gasket.
Took me about an hour to do from start to finish, but I am not that experienced under the hood. The bad thermostat was in terrible shape. The small, inner gaskets were totally destroyed. After installing the replacement, my temp gauge now works and the cooling system behavior is back to normal.
Thanks again, Smoke Wagon!!
My thermostat was stuck in the open position. I was experiencing the same flat-lined temp gauge issues as many people in this thread. The analog gauge was all the way down to 0 and the digital gauge displayed a reading of --- F degrees. Occasionally, the gauge would kick in and start working, but it was flat-lined a majority of the time. On the off days that the gauge actually showed me any information, the temperature reading was really low (160-180 F).
Picked up a Duralast OEM thermostat replacement from AutoZone for about $25 along with generic AutoZone brand extended life 50/50 Dex-Cool for $11. The new thermostat already came with a gasket.
Took me about an hour to do from start to finish, but I am not that experienced under the hood. The bad thermostat was in terrible shape. The small, inner gaskets were totally destroyed. After installing the replacement, my temp gauge now works and the cooling system behavior is back to normal.
Thanks again, Smoke Wagon!!
05-22-2015, 11:02 PM
#116
Senior Member
Join Date: 11-03-2014
Location: Lake Simcoe
Posts: 201
Not all code readers will clear or reset all the codes, the one I own, will clear the codes individually. It comes in handy for emission testing, we are allowed one not ready up here where I live.
08-11-2015, 12:07 PM
#117
Senior Member
Join Date: 10-16-2009
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 112
A big 'Thank you!' to the OP and contributors.
The job took me over an hour to do, but it was successful. The drain valve was TIGHT, but a six point socket over it with a short breaker bar gave enough umph to break it free without breaking the valve's wings itself. Afterward, I was surprised how long it took the coolant temperature to come up, but it did, and stayed where it was supposed to. Before the repair the digital temperature readings were from a high of 189 F to a low of 127F, and this was all on the same hot Texas day. Yesterday was the big test: On the highway at 70 MPH, outside air temp 105 F - coolant temp never exceeded 201 F and didn't drop below 189 F.
Saturday will be the tire pressure sensors.
Then the surging TAP reset.
The job took me over an hour to do, but it was successful. The drain valve was TIGHT, but a six point socket over it with a short breaker bar gave enough umph to break it free without breaking the valve's wings itself. Afterward, I was surprised how long it took the coolant temperature to come up, but it did, and stayed where it was supposed to. Before the repair the digital temperature readings were from a high of 189 F to a low of 127F, and this was all on the same hot Texas day. Yesterday was the big test: On the highway at 70 MPH, outside air temp 105 F - coolant temp never exceeded 201 F and didn't drop below 189 F.
Saturday will be the tire pressure sensors.
Then the surging TAP reset.
01-11-2016, 11:54 AM
#118
New Member
Join Date: 02-17-2013
Location: Charlottetown, PEI, Canada
Posts: 12
thermostat
...well, minus your actual cost on parts.
THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT 2.4*
*2.2 may be the same
I have read quotes from people who called the dealer that they charge upwards of around $350 to replace a thermostat in a HHR.
I had the typical flat-lined temp gauge, and a code 128 with a CEL.
I decided to approach the situation, and repair the vehicle myself.
I ordered a Thermostat from NAPA-cost $33.80 in stock
Here's how I replaced mine:
(thanks to rezonatefreak for pictures)
-let engine cool
-use a code scanner to CLEAR the code 128 from the PCM. If you do not have a code scanner, go to Autozone AFTER you have done the following repairs. They pull/clear codes for free.
-open hood, and remove the cooling system fill cap that is located on the passenger side of the radiator's upper hose(near the air filter cover)
-open petc0ck at bottom of radiator on passenger side, and drain coolant in to drain pan.
-locate THERMOSTAT housing on driver's side of engine, just above transmission case. It is almost directly below the oil fill cap
-remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the housing on. You can use a 1/4" drive ratchet, short socket or wobbly 10mm socket, and a 12" extension if available(makes the job easier)
-lift up, and pull the housing towards the radiator, while leaving the hose attached. if you wish to replace the hose clamp, do this now. Inspect underside of housing to be sure there are no remnants of the old o-ring/seal.
-remove the old thermostat. Make note of how it sits in the hole.
-inspect underside of thermostat opening to make sure there are no remaining o-ring particles.
-install new thermostat exactly like the old one was sitting.
-align thermostat housing in to position, and re-install the two 10mm bolts.
-close petc0ck at bottom of radiator.
-fill cooling system through upper hose fill cap opening with coolant of your choice. Most elect to flush out all traces of Dex Cool.
-turn on climate control to FULL HOT, select VENT, and open the vents, and turn the fan on high.
-start the engine. let the engine run until you feel heat coming from the vents. Use your DIC to select COOLANT temperature, and watch it until it reaches 190 degrees. Keep an eye on the coolant level at the fill hole. Once you have HEAT and temperature has reached 190 degrees, top off and close cap. Fill overflow to capacity.
DONE.
This entire job takes less than 30 minutes if you have the proper tools.
I drove my car on to the rack at 4:45pm yesterday, cleared the code, did the repair, and drove off the rack at 5:05pm.
total cost was $12.00 in anti-freeze, and $34 for the Thermostat. How the dealers can get away with charging over $350 for this job is beyond me. They sell the T-stat for over $50, and I am sure they charge to clear the code as well. But still...if you stood outside and watched them do this repair, they would be finished in 15 minutes total, unless they milk it knowing you're watching. But $350 is just robbing the customers blind.
I've done some major work on many cars before, as well as some easy work. This is as easy as doing a T-stat in a small block Chevy.
THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT 2.4*
*2.2 may be the same
I have read quotes from people who called the dealer that they charge upwards of around $350 to replace a thermostat in a HHR.
I had the typical flat-lined temp gauge, and a code 128 with a CEL.
I decided to approach the situation, and repair the vehicle myself.
I ordered a Thermostat from NAPA-cost $33.80 in stock
Here's how I replaced mine:
(thanks to rezonatefreak for pictures)
-let engine cool
-use a code scanner to CLEAR the code 128 from the PCM. If you do not have a code scanner, go to Autozone AFTER you have done the following repairs. They pull/clear codes for free.
-open hood, and remove the cooling system fill cap that is located on the passenger side of the radiator's upper hose(near the air filter cover)
-open petc0ck at bottom of radiator on passenger side, and drain coolant in to drain pan.
-locate THERMOSTAT housing on driver's side of engine, just above transmission case. It is almost directly below the oil fill cap
-remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the housing on. You can use a 1/4" drive ratchet, short socket or wobbly 10mm socket, and a 12" extension if available(makes the job easier)
-lift up, and pull the housing towards the radiator, while leaving the hose attached. if you wish to replace the hose clamp, do this now. Inspect underside of housing to be sure there are no remnants of the old o-ring/seal.
-remove the old thermostat. Make note of how it sits in the hole.
-inspect underside of thermostat opening to make sure there are no remaining o-ring particles.
-install new thermostat exactly like the old one was sitting.
-align thermostat housing in to position, and re-install the two 10mm bolts.
-close petc0ck at bottom of radiator.
-fill cooling system through upper hose fill cap opening with coolant of your choice. Most elect to flush out all traces of Dex Cool.
-turn on climate control to FULL HOT, select VENT, and open the vents, and turn the fan on high.
-start the engine. let the engine run until you feel heat coming from the vents. Use your DIC to select COOLANT temperature, and watch it until it reaches 190 degrees. Keep an eye on the coolant level at the fill hole. Once you have HEAT and temperature has reached 190 degrees, top off and close cap. Fill overflow to capacity.
DONE.
This entire job takes less than 30 minutes if you have the proper tools.
I drove my car on to the rack at 4:45pm yesterday, cleared the code, did the repair, and drove off the rack at 5:05pm.
total cost was $12.00 in anti-freeze, and $34 for the Thermostat. How the dealers can get away with charging over $350 for this job is beyond me. They sell the T-stat for over $50, and I am sure they charge to clear the code as well. But still...if you stood outside and watched them do this repair, they would be finished in 15 minutes total, unless they milk it knowing you're watching. But $350 is just robbing the customers blind.
I've done some major work on many cars before, as well as some easy work. This is as easy as doing a T-stat in a small block Chevy.
As of today it has a new thermostat, xtended life coolant and a new coolant sensor. Took a trip to the local dealer where they cleared the codes.
Now there are no coolant numbers, no heat guage dial, chuggs and does not always want to start.*
*When at the dealer they showed me the codes; which were all oxygen sensor, system rich stuff and coolant sensor stuff like(coolant temp too high).
So. The one thing like that could cause two systems to be so out of touch...maybe a head gasket?
What sucks is that I have a red seal and a tool box full but no place to do it. So I have to take it to someone who does. CRAP!
01-11-2016, 01:55 PM
#119
Administrator
Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,447
It could be an air bubble in the heater core! Park the HHR nose high, start it let run with heater on high heat , let run 5 minutes, turn off key let engine cool down, gently open rad hose cap, careful it might splash !
Top up the coolant! If it took more then a quart the heater core was the problem. Close cap!
Repeat , it shouldn't take any more coolant.
Top up the coolant! If it took more then a quart the heater core was the problem. Close cap!
Repeat , it shouldn't take any more coolant.
01-11-2016, 03:13 PM
#120
Platinum Member
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,032
Posting the actual codes would really help in the diagnosis. (the a/c not working is directly related to the coolant temp issues - the a/c is automatically disabled - so don't worry about the a/c at this point).
You recently replaced the flex pipe which means the O2 Sensor was reinstalled - check the connection for that, along with a fresh burping of the system as per Oldblue.
You can likely clear the codes yourself by disconnecting the NEGATIVE post of the battery in the trunk for a few minutes.
You recently replaced the flex pipe which means the O2 Sensor was reinstalled - check the connection for that, along with a fresh burping of the system as per Oldblue.
You can likely clear the codes yourself by disconnecting the NEGATIVE post of the battery in the trunk for a few minutes.
