vinmansbrew

By door locks, I meant the knobs, I should have clearer. They stick up so you can't have your arm on the door with the window down. Not huge, but it's been a long time since I had a car with knobs that stuck up like this.

The slip is the tires sliding like skis. Been like that ever since my very first winter with it. Which would have been about 20k. I find that tire design is super important. Wide spaced lugs are a must if any sort of traction on snow is desired. My old 82 nissan makes this thing look horrible on the snow. It's so bad, I have thought about getting narrow rims to put skinny tires on, as a skinny tire cuts through snow better.

Nope, not a single cel came on. But the dealer found the problem and replaced them under warranty.

In the 2006 model, there was no way to turn the dome light on from the front seat. You pretty much have to stand up and reach way back to slide the switch on the light.

Other gripe is lousy brake rotors, sway bar links.
I don't hate the car, but there isn't anything to make me really like it. I just needed a car at the time and it was the right price.

vinmansbrew

Well the camchain tension unit has the bumpout on it. I've had the car since 2007 I think, and I've never had the unit replaced. So, unless it was done prior, it is the stock unit on a 2006.

donbrew

You can unscrew the lock plungers and replace them.
This might be of interest:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...me-light-7864/

Maybe this, too:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-around-17017/


The sway bar links on my 2011 were still good at 266,000 miles.

Buy better rotors and keep your rear brakes properly adjusted, it usually is not the rotors even though it feels like it is. If they actually are measurably warped it's because the rears are not adjusted. Bad LCAs feel like warped rotors. Too tight rear brakes feel like warped rotors. Worn out rear drums feel like warped rotors. Type "rotors" into the search box for many other ideas.

vinmansbrew

I did have to replace the sway bar links. Good clunks over ever little and big bump. Probably could have done the swaybar bushing but the links took almost all of it out.

I used a dial gauge on my rotors to determine they were out of spec. Many issues that were on the 2006, seem to have been corrected by 2007. One I put on new rotors, the pulsing and shake went away. I wouldn't be surprised is the lca bushings are worn, though. Have to replace a bumpstop first though.

Oldblue

LCA bushings can be pressed out and Moog K20792 bushings pressed in you won't believe the difference, that's the old GM bushing on the right

vinmansbrew

Damn, that looks bad. I'll have to look up how to do it sometime. I assume is is a bolt that just holds it on. Was an alignment required afterwards?

donbrew

Search, or just scroll through the "how-to" forum.

Oldblue

You will need a press, I used an air chisel an an old brake rotor to remove it from the LCA.
and a ball joint press to install them.
If you had an alignment prior to replacing the bushings then yes get it realigned, it will be off!
Here is a how to remove and replace the LCA

donbrew

Advance loaned me 2 sets of tools that together made short work of the bushings.

Blue_SS

I say we give this guy a 20% raise for his good work, as exhibited right here.


Wait, what? He's a volunteer? Really?

Y'all need to thank your lucky stars that we have someone this sharp, and PATIENT with noobs. Well, sort of, usually patient with them...

I kid. Thanks once again, DonBrew. You do a great job.