Rear brakes
05-10-2016, 03:30 AM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-07-2016
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 12
Rear brakes
Hi all,
I did a complete brake job, front and rear, on my HHR, but now mybhand brake is almost useless. It will engage only when you pull it wayyyy up. I've read here that this could be because I haven't adjusted the rear brakes properly. Can someone point me to a thread on about how to properly adjust the rear brakes?
Thanks
I did a complete brake job, front and rear, on my HHR, but now mybhand brake is almost useless. It will engage only when you pull it wayyyy up. I've read here that this could be because I haven't adjusted the rear brakes properly. Can someone point me to a thread on about how to properly adjust the rear brakes?
Thanks
05-10-2016, 06:23 AM
#2
Member
Join Date: 02-24-2015
Location: Douglasville, GA
Posts: 74
Using the handy dandy search bar at the top, this is the first post to show up.
Hope this helps....
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...ocedure-36754/
Hope this helps....
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...ocedure-36754/
05-11-2016, 01:08 AM
#4
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-07-2016
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 12
Update:
I went through the thread suggested. I read through it and watched the video. Did exactly as the video instructed. I adjusted the breaks to the point that the wheel would practically NOT move. I'm a 200LBS guy, weight lifting type, and I had to put a bit of strength to move the wheel after adjusting it. However, I still had to remove the center console and tighten the cable.
Is this how it should have happened?
Should I, after adjusting the brakes to that point, still have to tighten the cable?
Can anybody tell me if there's something else I should be concerned with?
thank you!
I went through the thread suggested. I read through it and watched the video. Did exactly as the video instructed. I adjusted the breaks to the point that the wheel would practically NOT move. I'm a 200LBS guy, weight lifting type, and I had to put a bit of strength to move the wheel after adjusting it. However, I still had to remove the center console and tighten the cable.
Is this how it should have happened?
Should I, after adjusting the brakes to that point, still have to tighten the cable?
Can anybody tell me if there's something else I should be concerned with?
thank you!
05-11-2016, 02:53 AM
#5
Platinum Member
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,032
As I understand it you adjusted the brakes (not breaks) to the point that you could barely turn it? Hopefully you do not now think that they are properly adjusted?
If you did that, you did not follow the instructions off the link above - you really should not be working on the vehicle. Take it to a mechanic.
If you adjusted the brakes wayyyyy too tight, and found the cable was still way too loose, then obviously you have a problem with the way you installed the new brakes. You need to go back and double check them. Of course with your brakes over adjusted, you are going to have to back them off again, so you can pull the drums.
Your duplicate post on the other thread has been deleted. Please do not double post as it just makes it too difficult for everyone to follow.
If you did that, you did not follow the instructions off the link above - you really should not be working on the vehicle. Take it to a mechanic.
If you adjusted the brakes wayyyyy too tight, and found the cable was still way too loose, then obviously you have a problem with the way you installed the new brakes. You need to go back and double check them. Of course with your brakes over adjusted, you are going to have to back them off again, so you can pull the drums.
Your duplicate post on the other thread has been deleted. Please do not double post as it just makes it too difficult for everyone to follow.
05-11-2016, 07:09 AM
#6
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,691
One time a E-brake cable "became" disconnected on a shoe.
Was the E-brake tight before the brake job? If not might be a stretched/broken cable.
The drums should spin with a bit of resistance, like about 1.5 turns (not exact).
Was the E-brake tight before the brake job? If not might be a stretched/broken cable.
The drums should spin with a bit of resistance, like about 1.5 turns (not exact).
05-11-2016, 12:07 PM
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-07-2016
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 12
As I understand it you adjusted the brakes (not breaks) to the point that you could barely turn it? Hopefully you do not now think that they are properly adjusted?
If you did that, you did not follow the instructions off the link above - you really should not be working on the vehicle. Take it to a mechanic.
If you adjusted the brakes wayyyyy too tight, and found the cable was still way too loose, then obviously you have a problem with the way you installed the new brakes. You need to go back and double check them. Of course with your brakes over adjusted, you are going to have to back them off again, so you can pull the drums.
Your duplicate post on the other thread has been deleted. Please do not double post as it just makes it too difficult for everyone to follow.
If you did that, you did not follow the instructions off the link above - you really should not be working on the vehicle. Take it to a mechanic.
If you adjusted the brakes wayyyyy too tight, and found the cable was still way too loose, then obviously you have a problem with the way you installed the new brakes. You need to go back and double check them. Of course with your brakes over adjusted, you are going to have to back them off again, so you can pull the drums.
Your duplicate post on the other thread has been deleted. Please do not double post as it just makes it too difficult for everyone to follow.
05-11-2016, 12:42 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: 08-26-2008
Location: Sequim Washington
Posts: 1,488
Here is how Chevrolet did mine.
The car did not just have the brakes redone like yours but it had 23,000 original miles on it when I went in.
The E Brake was at approx. 5 clicks tight.
They pulled off the drums and checked the internals blowing out any debris.
Put the drums back on.
Manually adjusted each side as follows.
Adjusted until wheel could not be turned.
Slowly backed off until wheel felt very close to free.
Stopped there and checked E Brake.
E Brake then at approx. 4 clicks
Adjusted cable to 2-3 clicks
Checked wheels for any drag when E Brake off.
Just a very slight pad sound when turning wheel.
Test drove car.
OK.
Done.
From that point on which is hardly any miles at this time, I am going to try the back up and apply brakes firmly 2 or 3 times drill to see if the automatic adjusters are working or not.
If not then I will monitor the E brake position in clicks and re- adjust the rears manually as needed.
SF
The car did not just have the brakes redone like yours but it had 23,000 original miles on it when I went in.
The E Brake was at approx. 5 clicks tight.
They pulled off the drums and checked the internals blowing out any debris.
Put the drums back on.
Manually adjusted each side as follows.
Adjusted until wheel could not be turned.
Slowly backed off until wheel felt very close to free.
Stopped there and checked E Brake.
E Brake then at approx. 4 clicks
Adjusted cable to 2-3 clicks
Checked wheels for any drag when E Brake off.
Just a very slight pad sound when turning wheel.
Test drove car.
OK.
Done.
From that point on which is hardly any miles at this time, I am going to try the back up and apply brakes firmly 2 or 3 times drill to see if the automatic adjusters are working or not.
If not then I will monitor the E brake position in clicks and re- adjust the rears manually as needed.
SF
05-11-2016, 01:01 PM
#9
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,691
Too tight will also overheat and warp the drums and crack the pads and cause the springs to loose temper.
Silverfox; a GM shop adjusted your brakes that way? That is NOT the official GM Manual way. You are supposed to use the old fashioned double ended caliper with a spacer to adjust them.
From the Shop Manual:
Silverfox; a GM shop adjusted your brakes that way? That is NOT the official GM Manual way. You are supposed to use the old fashioned double ended caliper with a spacer to adjust them.
From the Shop Manual:
05-11-2016, 01:47 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: 08-26-2008
Location: Sequim Washington
Posts: 1,488
Don,
I didn't question the Tech on procedure as they have done this for me before on all of my other HHR's but in this case I was there watching.
They may have wanted to save a little time because it was done as a courtesy and I have been a very good customer over the years. It may have just been this one tech.
Never kept track of which Tech has done which job.
Never had any issue with the ones they have done for me.
The E brake comes out at 2+ clicks and feels perfect.
Never had a rotor turned on any on the 9 although I have not put excessive mileage on any of them.
Each one has been given the 26point GM inspection with 100% results.
That is 9 HHR's as of now.
Also .... It's hard to complain about FREE which I appreciate.
It has been a long and good relationship and they offer a free loaner if you need one.
BTW .. I am not disputing the GM Manual procedure.
Just saying.....
SF
I didn't question the Tech on procedure as they have done this for me before on all of my other HHR's but in this case I was there watching.
They may have wanted to save a little time because it was done as a courtesy and I have been a very good customer over the years. It may have just been this one tech.
Never kept track of which Tech has done which job.
Never had any issue with the ones they have done for me.
The E brake comes out at 2+ clicks and feels perfect.
Never had a rotor turned on any on the 9 although I have not put excessive mileage on any of them.
Each one has been given the 26point GM inspection with 100% results.
That is 9 HHR's as of now.
Also .... It's hard to complain about FREE which I appreciate.
It has been a long and good relationship and they offer a free loaner if you need one.
BTW .. I am not disputing the GM Manual procedure.
Just saying.....
SF