Spark plugs...easy to change for someone who knows nothing about cars?
#1
Spark plugs...easy to change for someone who knows nothing about cars?
Dealership wants to charge me $160 to replace my spark plugs. I am confident I can do this myself after seeing a couple of posts in the forum about it. I just need to know specifically where and how to approach getting to the plugs in my 2006 2.4L. Thanks in advance!
#2
First off...Welcome to the site!
Check this thread to see how to remove the airbox. Pretty easy and has pics to show what to do.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/maintenance-upkeep-50/checking-replacing-air-filter-10757/
Once you get that off, the plug wires are fully accessible and right on top of the motor. Grab the boots (one at a time!) and pull straight up. Should hear a bit of a "pop" when the boot unseats from the top of the plug. Get a spark plug socket and an extension bar. Crank it out.
When putting it back in, put the new (gapped...they'll be able to tell you the correct gap distance when you purchase the plugs) plug back into the socket to lower it down the hole. Carefully and slowly tighten the plug by hand...do not use the ratchet at this time. This helps to prevent cross threading. Once you cannot turn it any more by hand, use the ratchet to spin it an additional .25-.5 turn. Finish each plug completely so not to mix plug wires. Put everything back together and you're done!
Check this thread to see how to remove the airbox. Pretty easy and has pics to show what to do.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/maintenance-upkeep-50/checking-replacing-air-filter-10757/
Once you get that off, the plug wires are fully accessible and right on top of the motor. Grab the boots (one at a time!) and pull straight up. Should hear a bit of a "pop" when the boot unseats from the top of the plug. Get a spark plug socket and an extension bar. Crank it out.
When putting it back in, put the new (gapped...they'll be able to tell you the correct gap distance when you purchase the plugs) plug back into the socket to lower it down the hole. Carefully and slowly tighten the plug by hand...do not use the ratchet at this time. This helps to prevent cross threading. Once you cannot turn it any more by hand, use the ratchet to spin it an additional .25-.5 turn. Finish each plug completely so not to mix plug wires. Put everything back together and you're done!
#3
Hey "smooth" have you looked at OR changed plugs in your car??? I think you may be providing some "inadequate" advise to this newbie.
To the Original Poster....
Do remove the air filter box as suggested. But after this, you will notice the engine has a coil-on-plug design. You will need to CAREFULLY remove each of the 4 coils (one at a time, if you wish) before gaining access to the plugs (2 bolts hold down each one). Notice I specified CAREFULLY. I'm told, the coils are a bit delicate and if cracked or broken will obviously need replacement.....at an additional expense.
You do know the plugs are rated at 100,000 miles, right?
To the Original Poster....
Do remove the air filter box as suggested. But after this, you will notice the engine has a coil-on-plug design. You will need to CAREFULLY remove each of the 4 coils (one at a time, if you wish) before gaining access to the plugs (2 bolts hold down each one). Notice I specified CAREFULLY. I'm told, the coils are a bit delicate and if cracked or broken will obviously need replacement.....at an additional expense.
You do know the plugs are rated at 100,000 miles, right?
#4
Hey, Snoopy! Two questions for you:
1. Where did they hide the 2nd bolt on ea. coil pack?
2. I want to change my points and distributor cap. Can't find 'em. Can you tell me where they are?
Seriously, folks, Snoopy is spot on except the 2nd bolt.
1. Where did they hide the 2nd bolt on ea. coil pack?
2. I want to change my points and distributor cap. Can't find 'em. Can you tell me where they are?
Seriously, folks, Snoopy is spot on except the 2nd bolt.
#5
Hey "smooth" have you looked at OR changed plugs in your car??? I think you may be providing some "inadequate" advise to this newbie.
To the Original Poster....
Do remove the air filter box as suggested. But after this, you will notice the engine has a coil-on-plug design. You will need to CAREFULLY remove each of the 4 coils (one at a time, if you wish) before gaining access to the plugs (2 bolts hold down each one). Notice I specified CAREFULLY. I'm told, the coils are a bit delicate and if cracked or broken will obviously need replacement.....at an additional expense.
You do know the plugs are rated at 100,000 miles, right?
To the Original Poster....
Do remove the air filter box as suggested. But after this, you will notice the engine has a coil-on-plug design. You will need to CAREFULLY remove each of the 4 coils (one at a time, if you wish) before gaining access to the plugs (2 bolts hold down each one). Notice I specified CAREFULLY. I'm told, the coils are a bit delicate and if cracked or broken will obviously need replacement.....at an additional expense.
You do know the plugs are rated at 100,000 miles, right?
#6
No need for apologies. Yes, I would have figured to remove the bolts, and I will be very careful removing the coils. The car has roughly 125,000 miles on it, so replacing the spark plugs is way overdue. Thanks for the responses.
#7
You are absolutely correct (as always).... only 1 bolt to each coil.
Points, points, ???? are you speaking of those "things" you get, when you do "honey do's" ?? and a distributor cap???? do the vendors here give hats with a purchase? Trivia for ya, Joe. The last year and vehicle that had both?
#9
...But after this, you will notice the engine has a coil-on-plug design. You will need to CAREFULLY remove each of the 4 coils (one at a time, if you wish) before gaining access to the plugs (2 bolts hold down each one). Notice I specified CAREFULLY. I'm told, the coils are a bit delicate and if cracked or broken will obviously need replacement.....at an additional expense...
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