c2vette

Major repairs on a '96 Blazer due to DexCool at 40,000 miles (likely due to air getting into system although it was serviced more often than required) all covered by GM. I bought a used low mileage 2000 3/4 ton 4x4 that had significant and typical DexCool related sludge and failed intake manifold gaskets. Bottom line, check your coolant level frequently, regardless of opinions on the stuff, we all agree that air in the system combined with DexCool will do very bad things.

sleeper

My previous truck, 1998 Chevy S-10 I ran for 11 years on the Dex-Cool. Which it came stock with, & of course changed it at recommended intervals.

Granted it had an Iron block, but did have an aluminum Head, (2.2L) no problems at all.

But I have always been very thorough about checking my fluid levels & follow all the service requirements & schedules....etc.

My 08 HHR came with Dex-Cool in it, I'm not gonna worry about that.

hyperv6

Often Dex Cool is seen as the Suspect when it really is the victim. Poor gaskets and bad plastic intakes in the 1990's account often for the loss of coolant and the Dex Cool just reacted to the air and low fluid. Since we seldom have issues with gaskets today or failed intakes we seldom see issued of problems with Dex Cool or low oil.

This is not unlike the rash of aftermarket cam failures today. Since the goverment has forced the removal of Zinc from oil a additive is required to keep from wiping the lobes off the cam. People who are good mechanics that do not know this have wiped out cams that were installed properly accept for the lack of the Zinc additive.

I get calls all the time where they blaime a bad cam on a soft lobe [There is no such thing as a bad lobe] when the issue was the oil or other related install issue like a bad lifter bore or improper break in are to blaime.

Dutchman09

Here is a pic of the coolant level explaination in the User's Manual and two pix of where my coolant level is at overnight cold. It's impossible to see what's on the two embossed marks on the tank itself unless your sitting on the manifold. To me it looks a little low, but then I'm a Newbie with this car.

briand

I guess it would have been too simple for GM to put the cold fill line on the side of the tank with the black hose that faces the front passenger quarter panel.

So to clarify, do they mean the bump just below the coolant icon on the plastic or the other little bump, further down?

Sidecardog1

There is a bulge on the rear side of the tank down low. The photo is taken from on the right side of the car looking down. I usually keep the level up above that by approx an inch as the GM level is so far down. I do that to give me a little leeway if it goes down a bit. You never want it to suck air because the tank got too low.

briand

Brilliant shot! I tried to contort myself to see that and get a photo like yours but could not. Thanks for sharing it.

donbrew

Easiest way to see the level is from the driver side with an LED flashlight looking across the front of the engine.

But, do check the level frequently, as DexCool seems to evaporate.

From what I could figure, 1 gallon of straight Dex and then fill the overflow bottle with water gives close to 50-50, if working on an empty system. It will mix itself. At least by my "newish math".

working on it

I've posted before on not being able to see the cold fill "mark", but finally spotted it while changing the oil. These photos are spot on. I may have missed it in this post, but concerning Dex Cool problems the rumour I always have heard is that it will gel/solidify if contaminated with the Green coolant. Never dared to test it, but some very good mechanics told me this. Old wives tale...or not? Don't have any Green around to test it now either.

sleeper

Sidecar-

I agree, & keep my level about 2 inches above the stock level, & made my mark.. Easier to see & more reserve..

And yes I tested it hot & A/C etc & it never gets near the top..