Clunking noise
07-20-2016, 11:55 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 07-20-2016
Location: LA, CA
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Clunking noise
My 2011 HHR is making strange noise when I am beginning to drive forward or in reverse, otherwise the car drives fine even in pretty bumpy conditions. I just changed both control arms so these are fine. All the suspension components have been checked and the wheels aligned. Brake system was flushed and new brake pads installed. Passenger side caliper rebuilt was rebuilt.
The only problem that I noticed when I reinspected everything is that bleed screw on the passenger's side caliper was leaking. Somewhere I read that plumbing tape helps with this issue, so I put a little and it solved the leaking problem. I did not bleed the passenger's side caliper though.
Here is a video I posted on youtube:
Any idea what this may be?
Thanks,
Oleg
The only problem that I noticed when I reinspected everything is that bleed screw on the passenger's side caliper was leaking. Somewhere I read that plumbing tape helps with this issue, so I put a little and it solved the leaking problem. I did not bleed the passenger's side caliper though.
Here is a video I posted on youtube:
Any idea what this may be?
Thanks,
Oleg
07-21-2016, 01:40 AM
#2
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Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,032
How many miles on it?
Was the noise there before replacing the Lower Control Arms and doing the brake work?
If you rebuilt the passenger side caliper, it MUST be bled. If you removed the bleed screw to install some sort of tape (which is not a valid fix - it must be replaced), the caliper MUST be bled.
Once the bleed screw is replaced and it is bled properly, and the noise is still there, then come back with the results.
Was the noise there before replacing the Lower Control Arms and doing the brake work?
If you rebuilt the passenger side caliper, it MUST be bled. If you removed the bleed screw to install some sort of tape (which is not a valid fix - it must be replaced), the caliper MUST be bled.
Once the bleed screw is replaced and it is bled properly, and the noise is still there, then come back with the results.
07-21-2016, 07:15 AM
#3
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,691
Some part of the struts, rear bushings, sway bar bushings, sway bar links, to name a few suspects.
Were the control arms properly torqued?
Is the car an SS? If so, you likely have the wrong control arms.
Were the control arms properly torqued?
Is the car an SS? If so, you likely have the wrong control arms.
07-21-2016, 09:28 AM
#4
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Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,502
Welcome to the site!
You're profile states you have a 2011, so that eliminates the SS FE5 knuckle noise, I will agree on the bleeder screw issue , never use any kind of tape on the threads.
It sounds like sway bay clunking, recheck the end links and sway bar bushings and retorque the lower control arm two front bolts and the ball joint pinch bolts and the rear bushing bolts, they all must be torqued correctly not just hit with an impact gun to what ever it achieves!
You're profile states you have a 2011, so that eliminates the SS FE5 knuckle noise, I will agree on the bleeder screw issue , never use any kind of tape on the threads.
It sounds like sway bay clunking, recheck the end links and sway bar bushings and retorque the lower control arm two front bolts and the ball joint pinch bolts and the rear bushing bolts, they all must be torqued correctly not just hit with an impact gun to what ever it achieves!
07-22-2016, 12:39 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 07-20-2016
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 169
Welcome to the site!
You're profile states you have a 2011, so that eliminates the SS FE5 knuckle noise, I will agree on the bleeder screw issue , never use any kind of tape on the threads.
It sounds like sway bay clunking, recheck the end links and sway bar bushings and retorque the lower control arm two front bolts and the ball joint pinch bolts and the rear bushing bolts, they all must be torqued correctly not just hit with an impact gun to what ever it achieves!
You're profile states you have a 2011, so that eliminates the SS FE5 knuckle noise, I will agree on the bleeder screw issue , never use any kind of tape on the threads.
It sounds like sway bay clunking, recheck the end links and sway bar bushings and retorque the lower control arm two front bolts and the ball joint pinch bolts and the rear bushing bolts, they all must be torqued correctly not just hit with an impact gun to what ever it achieves!
The strange thing is that the clunking noise is only there when I am switching the gear and STARTING driving. After I stop and continue driving without switching the gear, everything is fine. I can be driving smoothly the whole day in reverse or in drive mode, but once I switch from one to the other I get this clunking noise.
Also if I smoothly drive farward and then gradually gain speed, there is no clunk. If I press on gas and accelerate fast from stopped position, I get that clunk.
07-22-2016, 01:13 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 07-20-2016
Location: LA, CA
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It seems like it may be CV joint:
Does this sound like a CV joint going?
Clunking Noise When Engaging Reverse or Drive [Archive] - Volvo XC Forums
Does this sound like a CV joint going?
Clunking Noise When Engaging Reverse or Drive [Archive] - Volvo XC Forums
07-22-2016, 07:26 AM
#7
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,691
Have you looked at the bushings on the REAR swing arm?
Describing sounds on the internet is chancy. A clunk to you may be a click to me.
A click when you put it in gear is fairly normal and can be fixed by installing a washer on the end of the axle, if it annoys you.
Bad CVs normally go click-click-click while slowly turning a corner.
The big bolt on the LCA is torqued to 74 ft. lb. THEN turned another 180 degrees.
What about the struts and strut bearings?
Describing sounds on the internet is chancy. A clunk to you may be a click to me.
A click when you put it in gear is fairly normal and can be fixed by installing a washer on the end of the axle, if it annoys you.
Bad CVs normally go click-click-click while slowly turning a corner.
The big bolt on the LCA is torqued to 74 ft. lb. THEN turned another 180 degrees.
What about the struts and strut bearings?
07-27-2016, 10:31 AM
#10
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Join Date: 07-20-2016
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 169
Thanks everyone for all the input! I showed my car to a few mechanics a few days ago and they pretty much told me the same thing, except one who actually fixed the problem. The problem was that I watched a youtube video (
) on how to replace control arms on my car and followed exactly what the guy did. By the time I found out that he was showing much more than just control arm replacement it was too late, my suspension was taken apart pretty much completely on the driver's side.
What I put everything back together I didn't tighten axle nut all the way. I checked it with my trusty torque wrench and it was at 150 ft/lbs, but I guess it was not enough. The guy who I went to a few days ago told me that he had seen this happen before and will do a quick fix for me. So all he did was tighten the axle nut with a powerful impact gun and the clunk disappeared.
It was a very loud clunk that is very noticeable if you put the car in Drive or Reverse and then press one foot on brake while the other one accelerates.
What I put everything back together I didn't tighten axle nut all the way. I checked it with my trusty torque wrench and it was at 150 ft/lbs, but I guess it was not enough. The guy who I went to a few days ago told me that he had seen this happen before and will do a quick fix for me. So all he did was tighten the axle nut with a powerful impact gun and the clunk disappeared.
It was a very loud clunk that is very noticeable if you put the car in Drive or Reverse and then press one foot on brake while the other one accelerates.