"Engine Power Reduced" P0601
12-01-2014, 03:04 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-01-2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 36
"Engine Power Reduced" P0601
Hello fellow HHRers!
I've referred to this site many times to get help with my HHR problems, but the threads I found after searching for my current problem didn't address my specific question, so I decided to sign up for an account and start a thread. :)
Anyway, the weather outside is frightful and that seems to be when the problems start. This time, my 2006 HHR is having trouble with an "ENGINE POWER REDUCED" error.
It began a few weeks ago when it was really cold. It would turn over and then shut off instantly and give an "ENGINE POWER REDUCED" error. Waiting a few minutes to try again would get it going, but with the Engine light on. After several restarts it would finally run without any warning lights.
Someone with a scanner read the error code: P0601. From Googling, I found that the culprit here is the ECM. Knowing this seemed helpful because on Thanksgiving the car wouldn't start for nothing. It kicked on twice but then died after moving only a few feet. So I tried a fix I use with computers and pulled one of the fuses for the ECM (#25 from the passenger side internal fuse box) and then tried turning the car over several times. I hoped it would reset the memory in the ECM like it does the BIOS of a PC, and for whatever reason it actually 'solved' the problem. The car not only started instantly after replacing the fuse, but the engine light was off and it had no trouble running.
Last night the problem came back again with temperatures in the single digits (it is now below zero today). I didn't pull the fuse (I don't know why...) but just tried to start it again. And it went. Then it died on the highway. After waiting a while it started and made it home. Once in the garage, I was able to pull the fuse out and that seemed to reset the Engine light and the car was okay.
It was also okay this morning.
It seems that the ECM will need to be replaced. But getting a new one is expensive. And then programming it is more. I found one online that says it can be programmed to my VIN, but I am worried about paying for that only to find it doesn't work.
Has anyone ever bought one of these car computers offline that needed to be preprogrammed? Did it work out okay for you? Were there any additional operations/expenses you needed to perform?
It seems the VIN programming is just minor, and that the real programming comes from switching the car on for several minutes and then doing some sort of a crankshaft relearn.
If all this seems straightforward enough, I'll probably get the part online (which is used, but what can ya do?). If it seems to be too much, then I guess it's off to the shop.
I got an appointment with the dealership tomorrow; they want $50-$100 just to diagnose. Maybe if getting this other ECM is a workable solution, then I can skip them and the expense there.
Huge thanks to anyone for any help!
Thanks,
JLM
I've referred to this site many times to get help with my HHR problems, but the threads I found after searching for my current problem didn't address my specific question, so I decided to sign up for an account and start a thread. :)
Anyway, the weather outside is frightful and that seems to be when the problems start. This time, my 2006 HHR is having trouble with an "ENGINE POWER REDUCED" error.
It began a few weeks ago when it was really cold. It would turn over and then shut off instantly and give an "ENGINE POWER REDUCED" error. Waiting a few minutes to try again would get it going, but with the Engine light on. After several restarts it would finally run without any warning lights.
Someone with a scanner read the error code: P0601. From Googling, I found that the culprit here is the ECM. Knowing this seemed helpful because on Thanksgiving the car wouldn't start for nothing. It kicked on twice but then died after moving only a few feet. So I tried a fix I use with computers and pulled one of the fuses for the ECM (#25 from the passenger side internal fuse box) and then tried turning the car over several times. I hoped it would reset the memory in the ECM like it does the BIOS of a PC, and for whatever reason it actually 'solved' the problem. The car not only started instantly after replacing the fuse, but the engine light was off and it had no trouble running.
Last night the problem came back again with temperatures in the single digits (it is now below zero today). I didn't pull the fuse (I don't know why...) but just tried to start it again. And it went. Then it died on the highway. After waiting a while it started and made it home. Once in the garage, I was able to pull the fuse out and that seemed to reset the Engine light and the car was okay.
It was also okay this morning.
It seems that the ECM will need to be replaced. But getting a new one is expensive. And then programming it is more. I found one online that says it can be programmed to my VIN, but I am worried about paying for that only to find it doesn't work.
Has anyone ever bought one of these car computers offline that needed to be preprogrammed? Did it work out okay for you? Were there any additional operations/expenses you needed to perform?
It seems the VIN programming is just minor, and that the real programming comes from switching the car on for several minutes and then doing some sort of a crankshaft relearn.
If all this seems straightforward enough, I'll probably get the part online (which is used, but what can ya do?). If it seems to be too much, then I guess it's off to the shop.
I got an appointment with the dealership tomorrow; they want $50-$100 just to diagnose. Maybe if getting this other ECM is a workable solution, then I can skip them and the expense there.
Huge thanks to anyone for any help!
Thanks,
JLM
to the site, and glad it's been mostly helpful to you!
12-01-2014, 05:05 PM
#4
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,662
Yes, the guy on eBay did OK by me $107 and easy return when it turned out to be not my issue. One caveat is that you will need someone with a computer to relearn the crankshaft, most good shops can do it no need for GM.
The install takes a couple of minutes; disconnect the negative cable from the battery, pop the Darth Vader hood off (in front of the fuse box), disconnect the 2 connectors yank the old one out. reverse to install. It is held in by 2 tabs on the plastic housing.
The car will run OK without the relearn, but the CEL will come on for a different code.
But, I would try real hard to find another reason for the code, they don't usually just break.
The ECM is covered by the Emissions warranty, if it still applies. I think 8/80 for 2006, but check for your self.
The install takes a couple of minutes; disconnect the negative cable from the battery, pop the Darth Vader hood off (in front of the fuse box), disconnect the 2 connectors yank the old one out. reverse to install. It is held in by 2 tabs on the plastic housing.
The car will run OK without the relearn, but the CEL will come on for a different code.
But, I would try real hard to find another reason for the code, they don't usually just break.
The ECM is covered by the Emissions warranty, if it still applies. I think 8/80 for 2006, but check for your self.
12-01-2014, 06:21 PM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-01-2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 36
Thank you all for your replies and warm welcomes.
The car couldn't get my girlfriend home tonight. I walked to her work to try to get it going and I got it to get us halfway home and we had to be towed to the dealer shop.
It sounds like they will do okay, except for paying for the labor is going to be a real pain (since swapping it out is so easy!). But they said they'd get us anything we wanted (after market, salvaged, etc.) and diagnose the problem as well.
It might be worth mentioning that we have yet to get around to replacing the recalled ignition switch. From what I've read that seems unrelated, but they are going to check for that being the source - it'd be nice, of course, since fixing that would be FREE.
Unfortunately we're just past the warranty on that ECM, unless it is a whichever comes later; otherwise we're over 90K on it already.
Thanks again for all your help. For the sake of future reference, I'll keep this thread updated with what we find out tomorrow.
JLM
The car couldn't get my girlfriend home tonight. I walked to her work to try to get it going and I got it to get us halfway home and we had to be towed to the dealer shop.
It sounds like they will do okay, except for paying for the labor is going to be a real pain (since swapping it out is so easy!). But they said they'd get us anything we wanted (after market, salvaged, etc.) and diagnose the problem as well.
It might be worth mentioning that we have yet to get around to replacing the recalled ignition switch. From what I've read that seems unrelated, but they are going to check for that being the source - it'd be nice, of course, since fixing that would be FREE.
Unfortunately we're just past the warranty on that ECM, unless it is a whichever comes later; otherwise we're over 90K on it already.
Thanks again for all your help. For the sake of future reference, I'll keep this thread updated with what we find out tomorrow.
JLM
12-01-2014, 08:11 PM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-01-2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 36
12-04-2014, 01:44 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-01-2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 36
It's the ECM. They want $900 to replace it new; about $600 to replace it used.
They agreed to put on one from eBay (where I can get it for less than $90 shipped!).
I'm wondering now if it is worth the risk of putting on a used one. The guy at the shop said that it can be hard to make sure you get exactly the one you need, but he might have just been trying to tempt me to the $900 repair.
Am I likely to get the right one? Will it more than likely work, or are these things that go out so often that anything used is likely to be shot already?
He's expecting a call back soon; hopefully I can figure out what I'm gonna do by then.
Thanks,
JLM
They agreed to put on one from eBay (where I can get it for less than $90 shipped!).
I'm wondering now if it is worth the risk of putting on a used one. The guy at the shop said that it can be hard to make sure you get exactly the one you need, but he might have just been trying to tempt me to the $900 repair.
Am I likely to get the right one? Will it more than likely work, or are these things that go out so often that anything used is likely to be shot already?
He's expecting a call back soon; hopefully I can figure out what I'm gonna do by then.
Thanks,
JLM
12-04-2014, 02:00 PM
#9
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,662
From what I found; there are several different part numbers but they are all compatible. Just specify year and engine.
I would go with the pre programmed one plug it in and pay a shop to do the crank relearn. Probably $50 at an independent shop, basically a tip to the tech, it takes no more than 5 minutes.
Your shop is trying to screw you. Go to a GM parts online store and price a new one. Total labor 10 minutes plus the New firmware install.
Spend your money however you want. Be informed, no magic involved with the physical install.
I would go with the pre programmed one plug it in and pay a shop to do the crank relearn. Probably $50 at an independent shop, basically a tip to the tech, it takes no more than 5 minutes.
Your shop is trying to screw you. Go to a GM parts online store and price a new one. Total labor 10 minutes plus the New firmware install.
Spend your money however you want. Be informed, no magic involved with the physical install.
12-04-2014, 02:43 PM
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-01-2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 36
From what I found; there are several different part numbers but they are all compatible. Just specify year and engine.
I would go with the pre programmed one plug it in and pay a shop to do the crank relearn. Probably $50 at an independent shop, basically a tip to the tech, it takes no more than 5 minutes.
Your shop is trying to screw you. Go to a GM parts online store and price a new one. Total labor 10 minutes plus the New firmware install.
Spend your money however you want. Be informed, no magic involved with the physical install.
I would go with the pre programmed one plug it in and pay a shop to do the crank relearn. Probably $50 at an independent shop, basically a tip to the tech, it takes no more than 5 minutes.
Your shop is trying to screw you. Go to a GM parts online store and price a new one. Total labor 10 minutes plus the New firmware install.
Spend your money however you want. Be informed, no magic involved with the physical install.
I know I could install it myself, since it looks to be about as easy as plugging in a vacuum cleaner, but since they have the car, and it doesn't run, I'm kind of stuck letting them put it in at the extra cost. But we are talking a ~$250 job vs. $900, so I can live with that. Plus they gave us a loaner and are letting us use it while we wait for our eBay part, so I suppose that has to count for something :)
Thanks again for all your help. Hopefully this little thread can add something to the HHR knowledge base.
JLM
