Hatch door does not stay up
10-04-2010, 11:41 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-19-2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 19
Hatch door does not stay up
A few days ago, I was rear-ended under 5 mph. There was no damage except for a few scratches so I let it go. Today I went to lift open the hatch and it does not stay up anymore, I am guessing something happened to it from the hit. Has anybody ever had to deal with their hatch door not staying open? What did you do? What type of place should I take it to to have it fixed? Thanks for any advice.
10-04-2010, 11:52 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-15-2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 1,706
A few days ago, I was rear-ended under 5 mph. There was no damage except for a few scratches so I let it go. Today I went to lift open the hatch and it does not stay up anymore, I am guessing something happened to it from the hit. Has anybody ever had to deal with their hatch door not staying open? What did you do? What type of place should I take it to to have it fixed? Thanks for any advice.
I noticed this was your first post! Welcome to the site!! 
I'm not positive, but on my HHR, I have a pump or shock-type pole thing (sorry, I don't know what they're called) on the inside of the liftgate on each side of the car. Maybe there could be something wrong with those??? It's hard to say, and I'm not very smart when it comes to cars, but that was just the first thing that came to mind. Hope you get it all figured out. I'm sure someone else will probably know more about it than I do. 
10-05-2010, 04:12 AM
#3
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Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,032
goetylsd is referring to the black hydraulic struts on each side of the hatch. They are a snap to replace, and be picked up from your chevy dealership (sorry, no idea onthe price). Any good auto parts store like NAPA, Shucks/O'Rileys, Autozone etc. should also be able to get you a replacement. I expect the price should be ~$30-$45 or so each.
Likely you will find one of the struts is leaking fluid (visible on the chrome rod that telescopes out of the black cylinder) and will need replacing (they are not repairable). If no fluid is visible, you will have to remove each strut one at a time to see which one is shot - if it does not extend firmly with good pressure on its own, it's shot. Once extended it should need a good deal of pressure to collapse it back down into the black cylinder - if it doesn't, it's shot..
Similar struts are used under the hood to hold the hood up.
Likely you will find one of the struts is leaking fluid (visible on the chrome rod that telescopes out of the black cylinder) and will need replacing (they are not repairable). If no fluid is visible, you will have to remove each strut one at a time to see which one is shot - if it does not extend firmly with good pressure on its own, it's shot. Once extended it should need a good deal of pressure to collapse it back down into the black cylinder - if it doesn't, it's shot..
Similar struts are used under the hood to hold the hood up.
10-05-2010, 05:46 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: 11-25-2008
Location: Hudson Florida
Posts: 751
goetylsd is referring to the black hydraulic struts on each side of the hatch. They are a snap to replace, and be picked up from your chevy dealership (sorry, no idea onthe price). Any good auto parts store like NAPA, Shucks/O'Rileys, Autozone etc. should also be able to get you a replacement. I expect the price should be ~$30-$45 or so each.
Likely you will find one of the struts is leaking fluid (visible on the chrome rod that telescopes out of the black cylinder) and will need replacing (they are not repairable). If no fluid is visible, you will have to remove each strut one at a time to see which one is shot - if it does not extend firmly with good pressure on its own, it's shot. Once extended it should need a good deal of pressure to collapse it back down into the black cylinder - if it doesn't, it's shot..
Similar struts are used under the hood to hold the hood up.
Likely you will find one of the struts is leaking fluid (visible on the chrome rod that telescopes out of the black cylinder) and will need replacing (they are not repairable). If no fluid is visible, you will have to remove each strut one at a time to see which one is shot - if it does not extend firmly with good pressure on its own, it's shot. Once extended it should need a good deal of pressure to collapse it back down into the black cylinder - if it doesn't, it's shot..
Similar struts are used under the hood to hold the hood up.
10-05-2010, 10:23 AM
#5
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Join Date: 02-15-2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 1,706
10-05-2010, 02:06 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-19-2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 19
Thank you!
It is the passenger side hydraulic strut that is leaking fluid. It seemed that 2 migrating wasps lead me to figure that out, and seeing there were fluid stains on the right side of my bumper.
I cannot see how to actually take them off to replace them. Can anyone direct me to any on-line instructions or post here how I can do so? Thanks again!
It is the passenger side hydraulic strut that is leaking fluid. It seemed that 2 migrating wasps lead me to figure that out, and seeing there were fluid stains on the right side of my bumper.
I cannot see how to actually take them off to replace them. Can anyone direct me to any on-line instructions or post here how I can do so? Thanks again!
10-05-2010, 02:20 PM
#7
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Join Date: 08-18-2008
Location: Moved to Camaro 5 forum
Posts: 508
They are just a snap in, ball and socket arrangement with a retainer clip. On the back side of the the strut, where it connects the hatch and also body, you'll see a horizontal slot under the retainer clip. Just use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry it out. The clip is spring steel and flex over the ball stud.
10-05-2010, 02:42 PM
#8
Platinum Member
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,032
They are just a snap in, ball and socket arrangement with a retainer clip. On the back side of the the strut, where it connects the hatch and also body, you'll see a horizontal slot under the retainer clip. Just use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry it out. The clip is spring steel and flex over the ball stud.
10-10-2010, 06:26 PM
#10
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Join Date: 08-29-2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,813
depending upon how old your HHR is (and not that I want to spend someone else's money) you might be better off getting the other side a new one. During the winter the struts sometimes get sluggish and may not hold up the hatch that well if one is new and the other old. Sorta like getting one knee replaced when you need 2, then your walk is over compensated now resulting in hip failure... Or a hatch on the head.