HHRfrustrated09

Ok, yes, I've searched the web, I've searched the forums, and I have read about:
1) Transmission Interlock
2) Ignition Lock Cylinder
3) Gear Shift Micro Switch
4) Anti-Theft Pass Lock

BUT, HOW DO I GET THE ENGINE TO SHUT OFF?..The Engine has been running since 7PM Yesterday!! (Apparently it takes a reaaaallly long time to run out of 3/8th's of a tank of gas!

I'll post the sequence of events later. For the time being, here is the short version:
1) Key Stuck in Ignition
2) After much nonsense with Onstar (and the "Release Button" that I now know is a "Release Lever")..Never did find the stupid 'Lever'
3) Key was removed - (by releasing Steering Wheel Adjustment Lever, turning wheel right and left, and lifting the Steering Wheel up and down..ALL AT THE SAME TIME - Takes 4 hands, 2 people - and jiggling the key, multiple attempts)
4) The battery cables were disconnected (don't know if we can now get back in the trunk, but from what I've read the answer will be not any longer since the battery is now disconnected)

So, battery disconnected (Yes, the one in the trunk under the floorboards), Key out / Key removed, and engine is still running (no it is not the fan or idling, it is running!)

ANY HELP? PLEASE! My mom's carr (she is 73yrs), and I know nothing about cars (more now than before this happening, but w/bad back and other medical issues - I can't crawl around or bend, so not much help. Our neighbor is the one that disconnected the battery).

STEPS PER ONSTAR: --Not Detailed-- and w/foot on brake
1) Tried shift gears and put back in park - No Help
2) Jiggle Key+move Steering Wheel Up and Down+move Steering Wheel Right and Left (Again, takes 2 people or at least I have no clue how just 1 person can do all that by themselves). - No Help
3)Tried finding NON-EXISTENT RELEASE BUTTON --unscrewed cover, etc. Never Found the Release lever
4) Tried removing Battery (positive) cable -- and then both cables
5) Retried the Jiggle/Up-Down+Right-Left..several attempts and was able to move the key out a little. Kept putting the Steering Wheel back to highest position and engaging the Steering Wheel Adjustment Lever, then Releasing the Lever and Jiggling+Moving the Steering Wheel...Eventually got the key out
** BUT, the Car Engine just kept on running even with no key in ignition!! (STILL RUNNING and of course the whole thing is hot now)

Car Dealership is CLOSED until Monday (this started Friday evening after the Dealership was already closed)..Don't know what to do!!..other than wait out the remaining gas!!

ChevyMgr

Pull under the hood fuse #13 (fuel pump) or #41 (ECM)

Laco

Even with the key removed, the ignition is apparently still on. The electrical is being supplied by the alternator, even with the battery disconnected. What ChevyMgr said, pulling fuse 13 should shut it off, it certainly won't run without fuel. I would reconnect the battery, though, since if you close the rear hatch with no battery, you will have a very difficult time getting it open with no power.

us11csalyer

I would pull the ignition fuse. I wouldn't want my engine cylinders to run dry....

HHRfrustrated09

Update: *ROFLMBum off* I missed it by 10 minutes - because I restarted my stupid cell phone! (Seriously)...Btw, the car an HHR 2009 only has 16,892 miles..Crazy, right?!

Anyways, when I opened the front door to go pull the fuses, as suggested, the car was dead/engine off/out-of-gas FINALLY!..but, THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! For your help! I seriously appreciate it, and only wish I had found this site yesterday/last night (as I had been looking online since it all started, hence my rapid education).

If I had known about which fuses to pull yesterday/last night, etc. I could have saved myself and my mother a night of very little sleep, and a LOT of worrying! Although pulling fuses did cross my mind last night (and that of the neighbor's); I was too scared to pull fuses randomly and mess up something along with voiding the Warranty, as I wasn't sure which exact ones to pull. Regardless, I am glad to know which fuses "exactly" should have been pulled!! As they say, "Timing is everything"

Hopefully, if someone else experiences this issue (I hope they don't, but I'm fairly sure someone else will eventually)..so, hopefully, all of this information will be of assistance to them. (From how we got the key out to what to do if the engine keeps running) Thankfully, we live in a very quiet area, and have patient/good neighbors, so our car outside running and still drive-able left unattended all night, was still safe (i.e. Window not busted out and stolen).
I will call the dealership 1st thing Monday (when they are open again), have the car towed to the dealership, and then let ya'll know exactly what occurs. THANKS AGAIN!

ChevroletCustomerService

Any updates of how things are going with your mother's HHR?

Michelle, Chevrolet Customer Service

HHRfrustrated09

I apologize for the delay in my posting, I thought it posted last time I logged on, again, I apologize for my delayed post. Here is the update (pardon the detail and length, I just wanted others to know the basic history, in case they experience the same --mostly the same "repeat" repair they did issue --so basically you may wish to skip that and insist they replace the part). Also see Recall Info at bottom.

1) ONSTAR SERVICE ASSISTANCE: (I pay for the $18.95 mthly basic service)
I have to give them credit, they did call me via cell Monday. It was a different Rep. than I originally spoke with, of course, but I explained to the woman what occurred, and the fact that their Owner's Manual for the HHR was incorrect and that I learned the Manual page 5-25 "Release Button" their Operator kept referring to, was actually a Release Lever and very difficult to locate. Etc., Etc. She asked if the vehicle had been taken to the dealership. I explained that I had spoken to the dealership and was awaiting the vehicle to be picked up. She was quite nice and asked me if we were getting charged for the tow, stating that if that was the case, to remember that Onstar offers towing under their RoadSide Assistance Coverage (which I buy for my mum) and since Onstar does not have a national towing provider they cover/coordinate with local towing providers. I told her the truth, which is, when the key previously got stuck and had to be towed (the engine wasn't/didn't continue to run in that instance) and that the dealership did not charge us that last time for towing. I also explained that the dealership wouldn't receive the car until too late in the evening to do work on it as they would be closing, so I would not know until Tuesday 3/21 after they looked at it, how long it would take to repair. She was kind enough to point out that as the vehicle is still under Warranty, the Warranty should cover a rental vehicle if needed. The only downside of Onstar (other than the lack of knowledge of this seemingly very common incident with this model and their being oblivious to their Owner Manual being completely wrong for this model with reference to the Release "Lever" -not Button-, is the fact that the Rep stated she would do a follow up call the next day or later in the week; however, I received no follow up call. Onstar did do a follow up call associated to my initial call for assistance, so they do get kudos for actually doing that, as I really did not believe it would happen at the time the original Rep Operator stated it. They did call back as follow up about 2 wks later.

FORD DEALERSHIP:
I spoke with the Service Manager (M) on Monday 3/19 and explained what occured (his attention was semi-divided between what I was explaining and various people asking him questions in-person, but they were very busy). He knows my mom, as she brings them carrot cake, etc. Occasionally. He advised me to call their towing service contact (I would have called them previously, but had forgotten which they used and preferred to use them). He stated they would bring the vehicle up there, and they would look at it. I pointed out to him (again during the conversation) that the vehicle kept running even after we got the key out, and after we disconnected the battery cables. It finally sunk in, and he said "well, that's odd", I was like yeah, and again pointed out that it ran for about 24hrs until it ran out of gas. I told him that I did some research looking for help, because their Service Dept was closed, and I learned that the key stuck in the engine was common to the HHR model. I also discussed the possible origins being (what I pointed out in my previous post: Transmission Interlock, Ignition Lock Cylinder, The Gear Shift Micro-switch) to which he stated that they wouldn't know anything until the techies in the back hook it up to the computer. I also explained in advance that my mum would be coming up there to wait for it, as it is currently our only vehicle (my truck is getting repaired and having maintenance as it sat for about 8yrs because I've been too sick to drive it, and back surgery and a stick shift don't mix well). I asked if he could ensure that she got a loaner or rental if the repair wasn't going to be dame day. He said he would check availability, and they would certainly take care of her, and said that he knows how my mom is (she always waits for the car or until they give her a loaner).

They looked at the car on Tuesday 3/20 and I spoke with the Service Mgr before she (my mum) left the dealership. When I asked what was wrong with it, he stated something about the tumbler in the ignition assembly. I said, "Oh, so it was the Ignition Lock Assembly like I mentioned", he grudgingly mumbled a yes or something like it. I asked if they had checked the Transmission Interlock, the Gear Shift Micro-Switch, and also the Engine Cylinders as the car had run had run for 24hrs until it ran out of gas. His response was that they had hooked it up to the computer and everything else showed as fine. Personally, I think that actually "looking at the part" (regardless of the complexity to do so) would be much wiser than just expecting a computer to register an issue which I know a computer won't register until there is actually a breakage/issue. Computer crystal ball vs, a real life mechanic eyeballing a part in order to avoid the future issue by his using his mechanical expertise, mechanics win hands down in my book vs. an automated system, but I diplomatically kept all that to myself. *winks* To the dealership's credit, the repairs were under warranty, and they put 5 gallons gas in it (not quite the 3/8th's tank that got wasted due to the problem), but an effort. The car was repaired same day, and seems to be running fine.

SERVICE DOCUMENTATION:
So the paperwork from the dealership reads as follows...

A C/S vehicle will not shut off, key stuck in run position
Cause: Key stuck in ignition
7200 Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement
1 - 20869121 Ignition Cylinder Kit
1 - Keycode Keycode
Z500 PickupChg
114 WT
CC: 0524
FC: 6051
Pqrth: 20869121
Count: 2
Claim Type: ZREG
AUTH CODE: (blank)
16922 Lock Cylinder came apart in case E72CO 0.50 Replace and Code
(Then just shows towing)
Also, Page 2: Multi-point Inspection 114 ISD
Page 3: -- I'm only listing what isn't green --
Wipers: Yellow
Check Tires & Thread Depth
LF: 7/32 (yellow), LR: 7/32 (yellow); RF: 7/32 (yellow), RR: 7/32 (yellow)

THE ABOVE SHOWED NO CHARGES -- However, vehicle is 2009 with only 16,972 miles and has Warranty

PRIOR SERVICE: (excluding regular maintenance visits or alignment)
09/15/11 Remote Transmitter (charge was $62.35)
04/13/11 (SAME ISSUE W/STUCK KEY MINUS THE ENGINE CONTINUING TO RUN FOR 24hrs!!)
A C/S Ignition Key is stuck in ignition want release
Cause: Wire Broke at X37 Connector
N6604 Ignition System Wiring And/Or Connector repair or replacement
114 WT
CC: 0524
FC: 7079
..Etc.
12177 Wire broke at X307 connector, terminal C N6604 0.50 found a broke wire at X307 connector [C] Dark Green and White Wire. Repair --NO CHARGE--
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