donbrew

2 things:
your diagram is for a 2006, mine is for 2008. I just cut the bottom part off and described in text where the 2 red wires and the pink go.

The 2 are pretty much functionally equivalent. Yours shows a slightly different routing between a 2.4 and a 2.2, your shows the optional clutch position sensor.

You stated in the first post you have a 2008. If that is true mine is the correct one.

islaconmigo

I have 2008. Sorry, I saw just now that the circuit for 2006.
I inspected my neutral safety switch and that's what I have:
When key in the position ON, and shifter in P or N, I have ground on pin 1 of the connector of neutral switch, but I haven't ground on pin 12 (see photo).
So I think that switch is broken or I'm wrong.
I tried to put the jumper on the connector of neutral switch between pin 1 and 12, but it didn't help. Perhaps other contacts also affect to the work

RJ_RS_SS_350

On the wire side, 1 should go to ground. 12 should not go to ground. On the shifter side, I think the diagram indicates that you should have continuity between 1 and 12 when in P or N.

malibuhhr

My GM dealer mechanic held the ignition cylinder at the start position and played with the clutch pedal in/out until he got it to crank. He also said with automatics its a known issue that the neutral safety switches (NSS) or relays go bad. Since your dealer is 150 miles away and you dont want to tow your car that far, i.e. your kinda desperate, you could try turning the key to the crank position, hold it there and move the shifter slowly back and forth between neutral and park. Try tapping the NSS with a hammer gently while doing this.

If you get ANY contact while cranking, you have an intermittent electrical fault like I had and there is probably carbon or corrosion/oxidation between two points in the NSS or a relay.

Can you get the plastic cover off your NSS? You may have to break it slightly. Once open, if its similar to the relay I took pics of, there may be points you can file or clean or a loose connection or something you can play with to get your car started. Or just hot wire the NSS (bypass it to allow you to crank/start). At least that will get you to the dealer.

donbrew

Here is the pinout. Pin #1 should be ground when the shift is in P or N. So, shorting #1 to #11 should permit starting.

You are forgetting that these are digital things. Most switching is done to ground and most "signals" are ground.

islaconmigo

The problem is solved!
I had a break in the transmission line, so ECM and TCM didn't have power.
The wire was damaged under the passenger seat
There was damage of the insulation of wire and then oxidation
Thanks for all for help

Oldblue

Geez, chaffed under the seat! Who'd have thunk it! Glad you got to the bottom of it and repaired the wire!

J W Davis

Looks like an "old chew spot" from a rodent. I have a lot of these on my equipment out at the ranch, can really drive you nuts.

donbrew

That's an awful lot of corrosion on the floorboard. Possible "flood car" exported because it could not be sold in the US. If so, you should expect more oddities.

islaconmigo

The car is located in the Dominican Republic, this car has been exported from the United States. Rubber plug (it is not visible at the photo) on the floorboard was broken, so the water gets inside.